Rainy Day Adventure to Monte Urgull

Today, we started off with an unexpected twist as we biked across La Concha in the rain. It was our first rainy day here in San Sebastián, and it was quite humid. Despite the weather, we were determined to explore Monte Urgull. The steep stairs and cobblestone paths tested our endurance, but the breathtaking views at the top made every step worthwhile.

The path was lined with old cobblestone walls, guiding us towards the Jesus statue that over looks the city. It had intrigued me since I first saw it from afar. Along the way, we encountered a little cat, which Alexa wasn’t too fond of. The fortress itself was fascinating, with windows that guards once used to protect the city. Watching some classmates climb a steep rock was amusing and added a fun challenge to our hike.

Reaching the top felt surreal. Moments like these remind me of how much I’ve missed out on and fill me with gratitude for this opportunity. Although the museum at the top was closed, the views of La Concha and the city below were more than enough. As the sun started to peek through the clouds, we made our way down to Kait’s lookout spot. She said it was the perfect place to watch the sunset.

On our way down, we stumbled upon a speakeasy bar that I’d seen on TikTok. It was hidden pretty well and was cool to find. We decided to stop for a break by some benches and ended up chatting about one of the books we were assigned to read. We discussed the historical context and how it relates to the current politics in the Basque region. Having this book discussion in such a scenic location was a perfect blend of learning and adventure.

Immersing in Basque Culture and History

Basque society has a rich history. It’s a matriarchal society, with women traditionally running the household while men worked as fishermen or shepherds. Men often gathered in gastronomic societies to cook and socialize, a tradition that has evolved to include families over time. In recent years, women have also been allowed to join these societies and participate fully, including in the kitchen and cleaning duties.

Today, we also stopped at Kokotxo, a Michelin-star restaurant our professor recommended. Although we didn’t eat there due to the high prices, it was exciting to see such a renowned place and what delicious food they had to offer!

The Basque people have a unique history of resilience and autonomy. They manage their own taxes, police force, and aim to have Basque prisoners serve sentences within their region. The Spanish prison system focuses on rehabilitation and reintegration, which contrasts with the punitive approach in the U.S. The maximum prison sentence here is 30 years, and capital punishment has been abolished, unlike in the U.S.

One story that stood out was about a man known as “Galicia Rambo,” who escaped prison six times. He even managed to walk out on a day pass and never returned. This kind of flexibility in the prison system is unimaginable back home, where long sentences and strict punishment are more common. In Spain, there’s a stronger focus on rehabilitation and keeping community ties, resulting in much lower rates of reoffending.

San Sebastián’s history of defense is equally interesting. The city was well-protected from invaders with cannons and fortresses. The streets surrounding La Concha are now the most expensive in the country, a great contrast to their troubled past. Walking through these historic areas, it’s hard to believe that this beautiful city has such a deep history of wars and battles.

Embracing New Experiences and Friendships

Living in San Sebastián for the past three weeks has been all about trying new things and stepping out of my comfort zone. After our hike, we explored Old Town, a charming part of the city that I’ve grown fond of. The museum in Old Town was a highlight. It was filled with artifacts and free on Tuesdays, which was perfect for us. Even though the exhibits were in Spanish, we appreciated the historical artifacts and the stories they told.

Dinner at Gorilla was another new experience. I tried chicken and prawn pad Thai, a dish I’d never had before. This trip has been all about embracing new tastes and experiences, living each day to the fullest. I’ve adopted a mindset of trying new things because I may never get another chance. This approach has allowed me to enjoy every moment and make the most of this incredible journey.

One of the most rewarding parts of this trip has been the new friendships I’ve made. In such a short time, we’ve become incredibly close. Shared experiences, like hiking up Mount Urgull, exploring Old Town, and engaging in deep conversations, have bonded us together. We’ve laughed, learned, and supported each other through every adventure. These friendships have made my time here even more special, creating memories I’ll cherish forever.

On our bike ride back to the hotel along La Concha, we were treated to a beautiful sunset, live music, and an engaging game organized by three guys with a microphone. They got the crowd involved, and everyone clapped along. It was a magical end to a day filled with discovery, history, and bonding with new friends.

As my time in San Sebastián draws to a close, I can’t help but reflect on how much I’ve grown and learned. This city, with its rich history and vibrant culture, has left a lasting impression on me. Whether hiking up Mount Urgull, learning about Basque society, or trying new foods, every experience has enriched my life in ways I never imagined. I will cherish these memories forever.

Introduction
Studying abroad in San Sebastian, Spain, has been an incredible experience for me. I have enjoyed the local culture, food, and beach environment here. During my two-week stay, I felt like I was a different person, more open and adventurous, because of this journey. I pushed myself out of my comfort zone and tried new things that I had never experienced before. During our second week, we had a chance to travel on a four-day trip. I and my friends chose to visit Florence, Italy, which was my first time in Florence. I was so excited to visit there.
First day in Florence
We stayed at a hotel in Bilbao the night before our early morning flight. When we arrived in Florence at noon, we were a bit tired from traveling, so we didn’t plan too many activities for the first day. After settling into our hotel, we went out to find an Italian restaurant. Italy has a huge variety of pasta. The restaurant was way beyond our typical restaurant in the US. The food tastes so much fresher and looks more handmade than in our restaurants here in the United States. 10 out of 10 for sure.

After our meal, we decided to explore the city. Florence’s architecture, especially the Duomo, left me in awe. The blend of medieval and Renaissance styles in the buildings is truly spectacular. I had seen pictures, but witnessing it in person was a whole different experience.

Day 2 & 3 in Florence

On the second day, we visited the Uffizi Gallery, one of the most visited museums in Europe. The museum houses an impressive collection of artworks, and seeing the masterpieces in person was a highlight of our trip. Each painting and sculpture told a story, making the experience inspiring.
The third day of our trip was a bit more adventurous. We traveled to Pisa to see the iconic Leaning Tower. It was fascinating to see this architectural wonder in real life. After Pisa, we visited two countryside cities: San Gimignano and Siena. We had a nice lunch at a winery in San Gimignano, where the scenery was just as incredible as the food. Later, we visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. We ended the day at a fancy restaurant in Florence, enjoying a beautiful sunset. As we were heading back to the hotel, we saw a large group of people dancing and singing in the plaza, which was really cool. Even though we were tired from the long day trip, we decided to join them and really enjoyed the moment. It made me feel like I was part of the community rather than just a tourist.

Final Day in Florence
Our final day in Florence was spent at the Galleria dell’Accademia. This museum is famous for displaying Michelangelo’s sculpture, David. Witnessing this artwork in person was truly awe-inspiring. The attention to detail and the sheer size of the sculpture are something that photos can’t capture. Our tour guide, an Italian gentleman, explained to us numerous facts about Michelangelo and the story behind every work. He shared how Michelangelo carved David from a single block of marble and how the statue was originally intended for Florence Cathedral’s roofline. Our guide also led us through an exploration of Michelangelo’s other works, offering insights into the historical context of his era.

Final Thoughts

Overall, my four-day trip to Florence was truly memorable. I wish I could have stayed in the city longer. The city’s fascinating history, beautiful countryside scenes, and fantastic cuisine made it an ideal place to explore. Being with friends made the journey even more enjoyable. This trip not only allowed me to experience a new culture but also deepened my appreciation for art and history.

Being apart of this study abroad program has already changed me so much as a person. I’ve learned new life skills, met amazing new people, and have explored places I never imagined I would. This experience has broadened my perspective, improved my adaptability and responsibility, and enhanced my cultural understanding. After spending a little over a week in San Sebastián, a few friends and I got the opportunity to travel to Barcelona, Spain for the long weekend.

Expectations vs Reality

Before going to Barcelona I was filled with nervous anticipation, especially after being warned numerous times by locals in San Sebastian to be cautious and hearing the words “good luck”. I never thought these warnings would happen to us while traveling. But unfortunately, we ended up experiencing some of these warnings, such as pickpocketing. However, instead of this event fully bringing down my spirit and ruining the entire weekend, I saw this as a valuable learning experience which revealed my inner resilience. This trip is my first time out of the country without my family which is already a huge milestone that comes along with great independence. I had to be extremely patient and realize the situation was out of my control. The new friends I made were so unconditionally helpful and did everything to support me along with some of the people we met while in Barcelona. Furthermore, I never thought something like this would happen. This stressful experience taught me to be more calm and composed during events like this. Fortunately, everything turned around in the end and I received my stolen property back.

Highlights of Barcelona

Despite some concerns about safety, Barcelona was extremely beautiful and full of culture. The city buzzed with activity, offering plenty to do day and night. The daytime was a perfect time to explore and dive deeper into the culture whereas night time brought a fun and vibrant nightlife scene. On our first day we explored Park Güell, which was unbelievably breathtaking. The park was massive and everywhere you looked there was new architectural structure or a scenic overlook of the city. We spent several hours here soaking in the views, strolling through hidden pathways, taking photos, and learning more about the city. Afterwards, my friends and I discovered a hidden rooftop restaurant for lunch. This peaceful place was a nice break after experiencing the stress from the night before, with delicious food and a gorgeous view of the city. In sight from this rooftop was the Cathedral of Barcelona. We were all in awe from this view and never wanted to leave. The vibes were amazing and I felt so at peace.

The next day we visited the famous Sagrada Familia church. The intricate details and design on this church were extremely impressive and awe-inspiring. Although we didn’t get the chance to enter the church, the outside of the structure blew us away. We walked over to a park across the street from the church where we took some great photos of the building. We enjoyed our time in this park, taking in our surroundings and marveling at how such an incredible structure was built. Later in the evening, we reserved a table at this amazing steakhouse called La Selva. The interior was unique and vibrant, with leaves hanging down from the ceiling and swings as seats. The service was beyond excellent and we got to cook our steak on a hot stone. This dinner was an amazing way to say farewell to the city.

Barcelona Vs. San Sebastian

Although these two places are located in the same country, they are so vastly different from one another. San Sebastian is more chilled, smaller, and quieter whereas Barcelona is hectic, larger, and louder. Additionally, both of these cities have amazing culture inside and out. Furthermore, In San Sebastian I have felt undoubtedly safe. However, visiting another part of Spain and feeling unsafe was a shock to me. I initially thought people were exaggerating the warnings but after experiencing it firsthand, I now understand the importance of being extra cautious of my surroundings and to not fully trust people who are overly friendly. Personally, going to Barcelona helped me realize how much love I have grown for San Sebastian over these past two weeks. I have started to adapt to San Sebastian being my home for the month and I was so eager to get back here after leaving Barcelona. City lifestyles have never been my favorite but I am still so lucky and appreciative I got to experience this popular destination even though the trip had several hiccups. The thought of leaving San Sebastian is a thought I don’t want to think about. I have made lifelong friends here, became a better person, and fell in love with the country all in two weeks.

Food is one of the main factors that define a culture. Within the Basque region, food is a way of life, a means for individuals—whether loved ones or complete strangers—to find unity, one bite at a time. During my pintxos tour, I encountered many daunting dishes; however, once I tried them, they offered flavors I didn’t even know humans were capable of experiencing. Some flavors were delightful, while others made me want to cleanse my palate with hot sauce. Each dish was truly a new adventure, and every restaurant we visited had its own unique atmosphere.

Before traveling to another country, I was an extremely picky eater. I avoided food that made me uncomfortable and rarely tried anything new. Before I left for Spain, I promised myself that I would set that hesitation aside and take a leap of faith with new foods. Sure, I might discover more flavors that I dislike, but there was always a chance I’d find a food I’d love for the rest of my life.

Salted cod is a very important product in San Sebastián. This preservation method dates back to the Basque fishermen of the 16th century, who salted and dried cod to preserve it for long voyages and harsh winters. Over time, salted cod became an essential part of Basque cuisine. The first meal I tried, truth be told, frightened me. It was a salted cod dish that resembled a croquette. It was creamy, salty, and very crispy on the outside. The flavor was powerful and perfect for a seafood lover, but the deal-breaker for me was the texture.

One of the most surprising dishes I tried was sea urchin soup. The idea of eating sea urchin was weird; I didn’t even know you could make a soup out of it. The flavor was so unique that it’s hard to describe. The only word that comes to mind is briny. The texture was very smooth and silky, similar to chowder or tomato soup. Although I wasn’t a fan of sea urchin soup, I have no regrets trying it.

Another odd dish, at least for me, was cow’s cheek. The meat was incredibly tender and covered in a rich sauce. I kinda liked it, though it wasn’t my favorite. It didn’t taste all that different from steak, besides being more tender.

The second restaurant we visited was very seafood-heavy. The menu consisted of various combinations of anchovy pintxos and fried calamari. I was a little sketched out by the look of anchovies, but I decided to try the one with fish eggs on top. To my surprise, I actually enjoyed it. It was very salty and paired nicely with the fish eggs and crispy bread. While seeing the fish scales threw me off, it didn’t affect the texture or flavor. The other meal there was the fried calamari, which was by far the best fried calamari I have had in my life. They were perfectly fried and seasoned, slightly chewy, and overall a great light snack.

On the way to the fourth restaurant, we stopped at a little shop that sells Jamon Iberico, a ham from the Spanish and Portuguese region. It is a cured ham cut directly off the leg in small, thin slices. Its flavor is unlike any other ham I have ever tried, though I didn’t particularly enjoy it. It has a salty-sweet flavor with fat that melts in your mouth.

For dessert, we had the famous Basque burnt cheesecake, something I had been looking forward to for the entire trip. Although I have never liked cheesecake, I had heard good things about it in the Basque region. I have to say, the cheesecake exceeded my expectations. It was the perfect texture, slightly puffy while still maintaining that classic cheesecake consistency. The outside was charred, giving it a smoky taste and a crispy texture that complemented the soft inside. The flavor was unreal, perfectly balanced—not too sweet, not bland. I know this is a food I will want to cook at home and share with my loved ones.

The message of this blog is more about risk than it is about food. I risked embarrassing myself by potentially throwing up in a restaurant or bar, but the reward was experiencing something new and enjoyable. This principle applies not only to food but also to new hobbies, trips you want to take, or the person you wish to ask on a date. The risk, if it turns out negative, is a finite consequence, but the reward is something that lasts a lifetime.

Spain So Far

Only 8 short days ago, my flight from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania touched down into the Bilbao airport. Yet the knowledge I have thus far gained from this study abroad trip could equate to if I had arrived months ago. What once was an expansive city that confused and scared me has easily become the place I’m grateful to call my home for almost a month. Thanks to the security of the city, the expansiveness of the bike lanes, and some new found confidence, I find myself completing tasks that once required dependency on other people. Almost every morning, I am able to bike alone to a gym in Gros, workout surrounded by foreign people speaking a foreign language, order breakfast, lunch, or dinner on my own, and rarely ever need clarifications in English. Immersing yourself in the San Sebastián culture and life is as easy as it is pleasurable. 

Mount Igueldo 

It was our first day at Lacunza when I discovered this ancient city has an equally ancient amusement park. From that point on I knew I wasn’t leaving this country without visiting it. An old, but trustworthy funicular takes you up all 181 meters of Mount Igueldo, and at the top you are greeted with the most amazing views of San Sebastián. The entire coast, from La Concha to Ondarreta, is clear as day. Also visible from the top are Reale Arena, Santa Clara Island, and all the beautiful architecture this city has to offer. Now, the main attraction to the mountain and what brings most people is, well, the attractions! The small amusement park inaugurated in 1911 is home to 20 attractions which cost up to 3€. I ended up going on three of these attractions: The Swiss Mountain, The Terror House, and the bumper cars. Now adrenaline junkies beware, the largest roller coaster (The Swiss Mountain) is a very small ride, only lasting 30 seconds, and is hand operated. Safe to say it is not comparable to your typical Six Flags, but it is the history and tradition that has turned it into such an important symbol of San Sebastián. Still, as a person very fond of the rush of a roller coaster, there was and attraction that satisfied myself as well as several other group members: the bumper cars! On this attraction our group of adults ages 18-23 were able to indulge in childhood shenanigans again, and it is safe to say we enjoyed ourselves plenty, trying as hard as we could to give each other whiplash. It is exactly this that attracts not only tourists but locals! If I have time then I hope to come back and indulge in the several restaurants atop the mountain. 

Art in Basque Culture 

Another thing that is so amazing about this city is that you can go to an art museum by simply walking outside. After descending Mount Igueldo, we walked away from Ondarreta Playa along the water and found some of the greatest and most influential works of Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida. His work is out in the open, integrated with nature, because to the Basque people, nature and art are one. The Combs of the Wind are truly spectacular to witness despite their simplicity. As seen in the photo below, this sculpture consists of steel embedded in rock, formed into prongs of varying shapes that are meant to comb the wind that approaches San Sebastián. Its appeal can come from the symbolism behind the three sculptures, maybe spiritual because of the number, or maybe representing the past, present, and future. The prongs ahead of the viewer would represent the future and the prongs behind the viewer, the past. Only the prongs representing the present are accessible and tangible, speaking on the importance of not dwelling on the past, not living in the future, but enjoying what is here now in the present. However, the appeal also stems from the creation of the sculpture and the feat of combining rock with tons and tons of metal. One cannot help but stare and think how difficult, expensive and risky this project was and how lucky we are to be able to witness it. Combs of the Wind can and should be put on the same level as the many other man-made wonders of this world. What Chillida accomplished structurally, culturally, and artistically is a rare sight to our blessed eyes and for this reason it must be cherished, visited, awed over. There is no better reminder of one’s fortune than traveling the world, and as someone currently living 5,969 kilometers away from home, all I can say is I’m extremely extremely grateful for such an amazing opportunity. 

First Impressions of San Sebastián

When I signed up for San Sebastián, I was filled with excitement, curiosity, and joy. I have now been in San Sebastián for a week and haven’t experienced a dull moment. This experience has already given me so much knowledge of the Basque culture, and I look forward to continuing to immerse myself further into their culture in my remaining two weeks. During the first week, everything was new, and exciting/ Everyone in session two worked together to navigate this wonderful city. Even though we have only known each other for seven days I can honestly say I am going to walk away from this experience with lifelong friends and memories. I was eager to learn the Spanish language but also nervous. I took Spanish in high school and left away from that experience with no knowledge of Spanish. After studying only one week here, I feel like my Spanish has improved significantly. I can now hold a conversation with the Basque people, which is one of my favorite things to do when going out. My experience in Spain has been nothing short of magical, making me feel like I’m on a constant vacation. The cultural differences are striking, yet my time here has been wonderfully enriching.

History and Significance of Txakoli Wine

During my time in San Sebastián, I had the pleasure of visiting the Txakoli winery in Getaria, a family owned vineyard that has been passed down through five generations and is now run by two sisters. This is the only winery in the region run by two females, which I thought was very empowering. This winery is not just a business but a tribute to the rich heritage and cultural significance of Txakoli wine in the Basque region. The Txakoli wine with its crisp, slightly sparkling character, is a staple of Basque culture. The history of Txakoli dates back centuries, with local families perfecting their winemaking techniques over generations. The Basque traditional winemaking methods produce a wine that is distinctively fresh and vibrant. This winery in Getaria stands out not only for its high quality wines but also for its deep rooted family traditions. Each bottle of Txakoli is a celebration of the family’s dedication and passion, reflecting the spirit of the Basque people. The winery’s commitment to preserving these traditions while innovating for the future makes it a vital part of the local community and a significant cultural landmark. Visiting this winery offered a glimpse into the history, culture, and craftsmanship that define Basque winemaking. It highlighted the importance of family legacies and the unique qualities that make Txakoli wine an essential part of the Basque identity.

Tour of the Winery

Before we had a chance to indulge ourselves in the flavorful Txakoli wine, we first had a tour of the winery. When you first enter you will notice this gorgeous circular window that overlooks the field of vines. The view was breathtaking! After meeting the current generation that runs the winery we began our tour. The first thing we saw was where the grapes are taken after they have been picked. We learned that the grapes aren’t squished 100% when extracting the juice because it can affect the quality of the wine. We were shown the process to make Txakoli wine. They use an autochthonous grape called Hondarrabi. There are two types of these grapes white and red or known as Hondarrabi Zuria and Hondarrabi Beltza. Both of these grapes are used to make the infamous Txakoli but they use mainly the Hondarrabi Zuria. Next we went to the fermentation room, where the wine is held in large stainless steel tanks. The room was cold, and they explained to us that the wine needs to be stored at 70 degrees to ensure its perfection. Txakoli is a young wine that doesn’t need to be aged. The grapes are harvested in September and the wine is ready by December, which is a really quick turnaround for wine. After the fermentation process is complete, the wine is stored in a colder atmosphere to crystallize the sedimentation, making the filtering process easier. Once filtered the wine is bottled and left to sweat before the labels are applied. This ensures the bottles are ready for purchase and then shipped both locally and to the United States and other places around the globe.

The Wine Tasting Experience

After our tour, it was finally time to try the Txakoli that all the locals had been raving about. We headed out to the terrace overlooking the vineyard, which offered beautiful views. We started off with the Txakoli. First we smelled the wine to identify its aromas. I detected hints of apples, lemons, and, of course grapes. We all waited patiently until it was time to take our first sip. As they had explained, it was a dry wine, and I enjoyed the little sparkle it had. To complement the wine, they also served bread, sheep cheese, and chorizo. I tried the sheep cheese with the bread, which was really good, but I didn’t try the chorizo as I am not usually adventurous with my palate. I really enjoyed the flavorful Txakoli, and next we tried the rosé. This one was my favorite! Finally, we tried the white and red wines that the winery also produces. After tasting all the delicious wines, we enjoyed the stunning views and chatted. It was really fun getting to know everyone. We had a fun photoshoot, and I am excited to make plans with my newfound friends in the future when we return home.

by Alexander Bisceglia

I am honored to have had the opportunity this summer to go on two study abroad trips through UML. In May, I traveled to the Azores, a picturesque set of islands left relatively undisturbed by tourism and brimming with its own distinct culture. Now in July, I have had the opportunity to visit two more European countries, Spain and France. This has provided me a unique opportunity to compare and contrast these three locations that have some surprising similarities and differences. 

Going to France

On the 17th, after a shorter than usual Spanish language class, we met up with the students from Session 1 of the trip and traveled as a group to two towns in the southern tip of France. These towns were Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz, and like San Sebastian, they both are home to a large Basque population, and share the same cultural roots. However, these towns in France don’t see the same amount of Basque influence due to differences in how the Basque people were treated under both Spanish and French rule. While I didn’t have time to fully witness the culture of the French towns we visited, it was interesting to see how the Basque influence in each city differed. While there, we got ice cream and listened to a small group of musicians perform in the street, something I’ve noticed is very common here. Often we will just stumble upon a celebration by the water with live music and people dancing. We ate crepes and macarons whose recipe is such a secret that it is only known by three people. Needless to say, it was all delicious.

Architecture

Since I arrived, I have been fascinated by the architecture of San Sebastian, and Spain in general. So many of the buildings have such ornate features and beautiful designs. It feels like everywhere I look I see something as gorgeous as the only best looking buildings back home. On our bus ride up to Biarritz, I had the opportunity to watch towns pass by as we drove along the highway, and I was able to see some of the less urban architecture of the country, which is something I would not have gotten to experience had I only stayed in San Sebastian. If I can, I would love to travel to a more rural area of the Basque country later on during my stay here. As amazing as the city here is, I also would love to get to see the full picture of the people and the places here. It’s interesting to compare Spanish/European infrastructure and its counterparts in the United States as well. The roads and highways here, while functionally the same and visually very similar, are in other ways very different, including lane sizes, street signs, the color of road markings, and many other aspects. 

Cities and Tourism

Compared to the cities of Ponta Delgada and Horta in the Azores, Saint Jean de Luz and especially Biarritz seem to have a much more diverse population, likely due to the fact that they are not as secluded, and attract more tourism. Only recently has tourism grown in the Azores. From my observations, San Sebastian sits somewhere in the middle. This might be largely in part to its Basque heritage, which, similar to the culture of the Azores, is prevalent throughout every aspect of life here. It can be very easy to whittle down places like Biarritz to just its stunning beaches, but I can almost guarantee that were I to stay for an extended period of time in the region, I would be able to see the same rich cultural history that I saw in the Azores and that I see in San Sebastian.

Language Barriers

I feel very American whenever I visit somewhere that does not primarily speak English. While I took French classes in high school, I definitely don’t remember enough to feel confident speaking it to locals. I was worried when going to the Azores about the language barrier, since that was my first experience in another country that doesn’t speak English. But since then, and especially after staying in San Sebastian taking Spanish classes, I’ve become more comfortable living in a city where I might not know anything being said around or to me. Because of these prior experiences, for the first time I was able to go to a new country and feel confident getting around despite not knowing any of the language. What also helps greatly is the fact that everyone else also speaks English as a second language. When I say I feel very American, I’m referring to an experience I’ve had now in all three countries I’ve visited: I attempt to go to a store or restaurant and order something in the native language, only for the person I’m speaking to to respond in perfect English. It is definitely a humbling experience.

A Return To Town

After a long day of stunning views and sunny beaches, we returned to San Sebastian, just in time to witness the sunset along the beach. Unfortunately, I did get a flat tire on my bike earlier in the morning, which only made me realize how much I had been relying on it since I arrived in San Sebastian. Fortunately, the city also has good public transit, and is mostly walkable. I didn’t have long to mourn my tire though, not before myself and a majority of the students from Session 2 took a relaxing swim in the ocean and wandered around experiencing the night life of this amazing city.

La Clase de Español: Spanish Class

Although I have only been in San Sebastián for three days, I have come to realize that taking a Spanish class in Spain as an American study abroad student is a transformative experience that goes beyond the traditional classroom learning I am accustomed to. As a student with very little prior knowledge of Spanish, I find that Spanish class is one of my favorite parts of the day. I feel a sense of accomplishment when I learn new words and phrases that help me communicate with the wonderful people of San Sebastián. For example, in class today, I learned how to ask questions like “Can I have a croissant, please?” and “What is your name?”. Not only am I learning these phrases, but I also quickly put them to use in everyday scenarios. Today, I asked a baker at the market for a croissant in Spanish, and seeing the smile on her face because I tried communicating in her native language was incredibly rewarding. It made me realize how lucky I am to experience something so amazing.

Biking Along The Coast

After class, my friends and I rode our bikes back to the hotel. Somewhere along the busy streets of San Sebastián, we took a wrong turn and ended up along the beautiful coast. The bike ride along the coast of San Sebastián offers a breathtaking panorama that captures the essence of this coastal gem. As you pedal along the scenic route, the view unfolds into a dazzling display of natural beauty. The path winds through charming coastal villages, where colorful houses and bustling markets add a vibrant touch to the serene landscape. I have never seen anything like this view before, and although the streets were crowded with people walking, biking, and running, all I could hear were the crisp sounds of the crystal blue waves crashing on the rocks. The salty sea breeze and the warmth of the sun on our faces made the experience even more delightful. My friends and I stopped our bike ride and took countless pictures to remember this beautiful view. The unexpected detour turned into a memorable adventure, reminding us of the joys of exploring a new place.

Meeting The Author

Another amazing event that I experienced today was meeting Marti Buckley, the author of a cookbook called “The Book of Pintxos.” She introduced us to the famous small bites of Basque Country, pintxos, and the local people who make them with such passion and expertise. Her cookbook not only details how to make these delicious savory bites but also explains how to eat them like a local, the different kinds of pintxos, and the stories behind the bars that create them. I also learned a lot of interesting information about Marti herself. Something that stood out to me was that she originally lived in the United States and traveled to Spain for study abroad in college, just like our group. Her journey resonated deeply with me. She has been living in San Sebastián for 14 years now, fully immersed in the local culture and cuisine. Listening to her story, I couldn’t help but wonder if that could possibly be me in the future. Meeting someone who has successfully made a life in this beautiful city after studying abroad was incredibly inspiring. It gave me a sense of excitement and possibility for my own future adventures and potential paths in life. The idea of blending my love for travel, culture, and food into a lifelong journey now feels more tangible and enticing than ever before.

TRATTORIA La Mila

After hearing about all the delicious food Spain has to offer, a group of us decided to visit Trattoria La Mila, a restaurant that blends Italian cuisine with a hint of Spanish influence. The warm and inviting atmosphere of the restaurant immediately made us eager to dine. Arriving a bit early, the restaurant was pleasantly quiet, giving us the chance to savor our meal without rush. Despite the early hour, the quality of the food was outstanding. I opted for pasta with carbonara sauce, and the combination of creamy egg yolk and savory ham was a delight, complemented perfectly by the texture of the handmade pasta. Each bite was a culinary experience that left me wanting more. My friends enjoyed their pasta dishes equally, and by the time we finished, not a single piece of pasta or drop of sauce remained on our plates. We were so impressed that we’ve already planned to return before heading back home to the United States. Our dining experience at Trattoria La Mila was not just a meal but a memorable highlight of our time in San Sebastián, showcasing the city’s fusion of culinary traditions and its dedication to creating exceptional dining experiences.

Warm Welcome

I’ve always believed that world travel was the greatest form of education. It reverts your mind back to a time when you were small and experiencing the world with fresh eyes. Shortly upon my arrival in San Sebastian, this belief of mine was only reinforced when I found that I was tasked with getting to know the world again—little by little, sensation by sensation. 

It was all new. New air, new earth, new architecture. The only familiar thing I had as my bus arrived in San Sebastian was myself, yet I knew even that wouldn’t last. One day in, and the experience had already started to change me. 

The Culture

To take in a culture, you must start with its people, and understanding Basque people is no easy feat as an American. It so happens that I arrived on the day of a big game in fútbol: the day that Spain was to play against England. I’m not a prolific football fan myself, but I do know that one is typically expected to root for the team that plays for their city or country. This expectation does not apply to Basque Country. The Basque people have a history of rooting against Spain as a nod to their identity as Basque. So, on the very first night I arrived, I meandered through the streets as darkness fell delicately on San Sebastian to the sound of cheers ringing out from nearby bars and clubs where the game was being played. However, I had no idea who those cheers were for. Many were likely for England. In the end, when Spain won, I could only hope that the Basque wouldn’t be too disappointed.

Being in San Sebastian forces you understand the differences between cultures that exist independently of the state and ones that don’t. It starts with identity. The identity of the Basque people is powerful, important, and even revolutionary; they are a people who will not be overlooked. For this, I am grateful. I had the opportunity to order txakoli and pintxos in Old Town and felt as if I had been sent to heaven. Basque gastronomy is certainly something to behold, and I haven’t even scratched the surface. 

Spanish Class

The morning bike ride to my first Spanish class at Lacunza was beautiful and refreshing. We struggled to navigate the bike lanes and made some clumsy errors (such as biking on the pavement, which we learned was a big no-no), but the struggle—along with the burn in my legs from biking uphill—could not compete with the salty smell of the ocean in the air. With sweat on my face and callouses forming on my hands, I arrived at Lacunza feeling like my child-self, fresh from playing outside. 

My Spanish class with Lacunza was exactly what language classes should be. Confusing, uncomfortable, and effective. It was as if I was in the midst of a productive dialogue that was getting more and more comprehensive by the minute. The instructor spoke slowly and clearly in her native tongue, making gestures so we could intuitively catch on despite our lack of knowledge. Once again, I felt like a child. It was like learning to speak for the first time. I could practically feel the elasticity in my brain increase! At times, as I stumbled over poorly pronounced Spanish, I couldn’t help but smile. This was exactly how I’d always dreamed of learning, especially with it being alongside people from so many other cultures. I met people from France, Germany, Switzerland, England, and many more countries. I learned about their lives over coffee, cookies, and Spanish tortilla.

The City

The first thing I noticed about San Sebastian was the architecture. I couldn’t help but feel mesmerized at the sight of its buildings. The tallest building in San Sebastian, whose spires and turrets tower over the city, is the cathedral. Its magnificent stature appears medieval over the quaint structures which line the beach front. For me, the cathedral acts as a sort of navigator. You see it and know exactly where you are in relation to it, which has been helping me find my way around the city. The lights, the smell of delicious food, and the history all followed me as we went on a walking tour with a wonderful guide who was ready to answer any questions we had about the places we passed.

What must be said about this extraordinary city and the experience that comes with visiting it is that the place is proud, and rightfully so. They walk confidently, they gesticulate animatedly, their children play unabashedly in the streets, and many of their dogs roam freely. They are kind, but not enough to treat you like you are stupid. Not in San Sebastian. You arrive with wonder, with a thousand questions, or maybe just one. This is a city that has the answer, but it won’t tell you what it is. You come here agreeing to figure it out yourself.