Food is one of the main factors that define a culture. Within the Basque region, food is a way of life, a means for individuals—whether loved ones or complete strangers—to find unity, one bite at a time. During my pintxos tour, I encountered many daunting dishes; however, once I tried them, they offered flavors I didn’t even know humans were capable of experiencing. Some flavors were delightful, while others made me want to cleanse my palate with hot sauce. Each dish was truly a new adventure, and every restaurant we visited had its own unique atmosphere.

Before traveling to another country, I was an extremely picky eater. I avoided food that made me uncomfortable and rarely tried anything new. Before I left for Spain, I promised myself that I would set that hesitation aside and take a leap of faith with new foods. Sure, I might discover more flavors that I dislike, but there was always a chance I’d find a food I’d love for the rest of my life.

Salted cod is a very important product in San Sebastián. This preservation method dates back to the Basque fishermen of the 16th century, who salted and dried cod to preserve it for long voyages and harsh winters. Over time, salted cod became an essential part of Basque cuisine. The first meal I tried, truth be told, frightened me. It was a salted cod dish that resembled a croquette. It was creamy, salty, and very crispy on the outside. The flavor was powerful and perfect for a seafood lover, but the deal-breaker for me was the texture.

One of the most surprising dishes I tried was sea urchin soup. The idea of eating sea urchin was weird; I didn’t even know you could make a soup out of it. The flavor was so unique that it’s hard to describe. The only word that comes to mind is briny. The texture was very smooth and silky, similar to chowder or tomato soup. Although I wasn’t a fan of sea urchin soup, I have no regrets trying it.

Another odd dish, at least for me, was cow’s cheek. The meat was incredibly tender and covered in a rich sauce. I kinda liked it, though it wasn’t my favorite. It didn’t taste all that different from steak, besides being more tender.

The second restaurant we visited was very seafood-heavy. The menu consisted of various combinations of anchovy pintxos and fried calamari. I was a little sketched out by the look of anchovies, but I decided to try the one with fish eggs on top. To my surprise, I actually enjoyed it. It was very salty and paired nicely with the fish eggs and crispy bread. While seeing the fish scales threw me off, it didn’t affect the texture or flavor. The other meal there was the fried calamari, which was by far the best fried calamari I have had in my life. They were perfectly fried and seasoned, slightly chewy, and overall a great light snack.

On the way to the fourth restaurant, we stopped at a little shop that sells Jamon Iberico, a ham from the Spanish and Portuguese region. It is a cured ham cut directly off the leg in small, thin slices. Its flavor is unlike any other ham I have ever tried, though I didn’t particularly enjoy it. It has a salty-sweet flavor with fat that melts in your mouth.

For dessert, we had the famous Basque burnt cheesecake, something I had been looking forward to for the entire trip. Although I have never liked cheesecake, I had heard good things about it in the Basque region. I have to say, the cheesecake exceeded my expectations. It was the perfect texture, slightly puffy while still maintaining that classic cheesecake consistency. The outside was charred, giving it a smoky taste and a crispy texture that complemented the soft inside. The flavor was unreal, perfectly balanced—not too sweet, not bland. I know this is a food I will want to cook at home and share with my loved ones.

The message of this blog is more about risk than it is about food. I risked embarrassing myself by potentially throwing up in a restaurant or bar, but the reward was experiencing something new and enjoyable. This principle applies not only to food but also to new hobbies, trips you want to take, or the person you wish to ask on a date. The risk, if it turns out negative, is a finite consequence, but the reward is something that lasts a lifetime.

Spain So Far

Only 8 short days ago, my flight from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania touched down into the Bilbao airport. Yet the knowledge I have thus far gained from this study abroad trip could equate to if I had arrived months ago. What once was an expansive city that confused and scared me has easily become the place I’m grateful to call my home for almost a month. Thanks to the security of the city, the expansiveness of the bike lanes, and some new found confidence, I find myself completing tasks that once required dependency on other people. Almost every morning, I am able to bike alone to a gym in Gros, workout surrounded by foreign people speaking a foreign language, order breakfast, lunch, or dinner on my own, and rarely ever need clarifications in English. Immersing yourself in the San Sebastián culture and life is as easy as it is pleasurable. 

Mount Igueldo 

It was our first day at Lacunza when I discovered this ancient city has an equally ancient amusement park. From that point on I knew I wasn’t leaving this country without visiting it. An old, but trustworthy funicular takes you up all 181 meters of Mount Igueldo, and at the top you are greeted with the most amazing views of San Sebastián. The entire coast, from La Concha to Ondarreta, is clear as day. Also visible from the top are Reale Arena, Santa Clara Island, and all the beautiful architecture this city has to offer. Now, the main attraction to the mountain and what brings most people is, well, the attractions! The small amusement park inaugurated in 1911 is home to 20 attractions which cost up to 3€. I ended up going on three of these attractions: The Swiss Mountain, The Terror House, and the bumper cars. Now adrenaline junkies beware, the largest roller coaster (The Swiss Mountain) is a very small ride, only lasting 30 seconds, and is hand operated. Safe to say it is not comparable to your typical Six Flags, but it is the history and tradition that has turned it into such an important symbol of San Sebastián. Still, as a person very fond of the rush of a roller coaster, there was and attraction that satisfied myself as well as several other group members: the bumper cars! On this attraction our group of adults ages 18-23 were able to indulge in childhood shenanigans again, and it is safe to say we enjoyed ourselves plenty, trying as hard as we could to give each other whiplash. It is exactly this that attracts not only tourists but locals! If I have time then I hope to come back and indulge in the several restaurants atop the mountain. 

Art in Basque Culture 

Another thing that is so amazing about this city is that you can go to an art museum by simply walking outside. After descending Mount Igueldo, we walked away from Ondarreta Playa along the water and found some of the greatest and most influential works of Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida. His work is out in the open, integrated with nature, because to the Basque people, nature and art are one. The Combs of the Wind are truly spectacular to witness despite their simplicity. As seen in the photo below, this sculpture consists of steel embedded in rock, formed into prongs of varying shapes that are meant to comb the wind that approaches San Sebastián. Its appeal can come from the symbolism behind the three sculptures, maybe spiritual because of the number, or maybe representing the past, present, and future. The prongs ahead of the viewer would represent the future and the prongs behind the viewer, the past. Only the prongs representing the present are accessible and tangible, speaking on the importance of not dwelling on the past, not living in the future, but enjoying what is here now in the present. However, the appeal also stems from the creation of the sculpture and the feat of combining rock with tons and tons of metal. One cannot help but stare and think how difficult, expensive and risky this project was and how lucky we are to be able to witness it. Combs of the Wind can and should be put on the same level as the many other man-made wonders of this world. What Chillida accomplished structurally, culturally, and artistically is a rare sight to our blessed eyes and for this reason it must be cherished, visited, awed over. There is no better reminder of one’s fortune than traveling the world, and as someone currently living 5,969 kilometers away from home, all I can say is I’m extremely extremely grateful for such an amazing opportunity. 

First Impressions of San Sebastián

When I signed up for San Sebastián, I was filled with excitement, curiosity, and joy. I have now been in San Sebastián for a week and haven’t experienced a dull moment. This experience has already given me so much knowledge of the Basque culture, and I look forward to continuing to immerse myself further into their culture in my remaining two weeks. During the first week, everything was new, and exciting/ Everyone in session two worked together to navigate this wonderful city. Even though we have only known each other for seven days I can honestly say I am going to walk away from this experience with lifelong friends and memories. I was eager to learn the Spanish language but also nervous. I took Spanish in high school and left away from that experience with no knowledge of Spanish. After studying only one week here, I feel like my Spanish has improved significantly. I can now hold a conversation with the Basque people, which is one of my favorite things to do when going out. My experience in Spain has been nothing short of magical, making me feel like I’m on a constant vacation. The cultural differences are striking, yet my time here has been wonderfully enriching.

History and Significance of Txakoli Wine

During my time in San Sebastián, I had the pleasure of visiting the Txakoli winery in Getaria, a family owned vineyard that has been passed down through five generations and is now run by two sisters. This is the only winery in the region run by two females, which I thought was very empowering. This winery is not just a business but a tribute to the rich heritage and cultural significance of Txakoli wine in the Basque region. The Txakoli wine with its crisp, slightly sparkling character, is a staple of Basque culture. The history of Txakoli dates back centuries, with local families perfecting their winemaking techniques over generations. The Basque traditional winemaking methods produce a wine that is distinctively fresh and vibrant. This winery in Getaria stands out not only for its high quality wines but also for its deep rooted family traditions. Each bottle of Txakoli is a celebration of the family’s dedication and passion, reflecting the spirit of the Basque people. The winery’s commitment to preserving these traditions while innovating for the future makes it a vital part of the local community and a significant cultural landmark. Visiting this winery offered a glimpse into the history, culture, and craftsmanship that define Basque winemaking. It highlighted the importance of family legacies and the unique qualities that make Txakoli wine an essential part of the Basque identity.

Tour of the Winery

Before we had a chance to indulge ourselves in the flavorful Txakoli wine, we first had a tour of the winery. When you first enter you will notice this gorgeous circular window that overlooks the field of vines. The view was breathtaking! After meeting the current generation that runs the winery we began our tour. The first thing we saw was where the grapes are taken after they have been picked. We learned that the grapes aren’t squished 100% when extracting the juice because it can affect the quality of the wine. We were shown the process to make Txakoli wine. They use an autochthonous grape called Hondarrabi. There are two types of these grapes white and red or known as Hondarrabi Zuria and Hondarrabi Beltza. Both of these grapes are used to make the infamous Txakoli but they use mainly the Hondarrabi Zuria. Next we went to the fermentation room, where the wine is held in large stainless steel tanks. The room was cold, and they explained to us that the wine needs to be stored at 70 degrees to ensure its perfection. Txakoli is a young wine that doesn’t need to be aged. The grapes are harvested in September and the wine is ready by December, which is a really quick turnaround for wine. After the fermentation process is complete, the wine is stored in a colder atmosphere to crystallize the sedimentation, making the filtering process easier. Once filtered the wine is bottled and left to sweat before the labels are applied. This ensures the bottles are ready for purchase and then shipped both locally and to the United States and other places around the globe.

The Wine Tasting Experience

After our tour, it was finally time to try the Txakoli that all the locals had been raving about. We headed out to the terrace overlooking the vineyard, which offered beautiful views. We started off with the Txakoli. First we smelled the wine to identify its aromas. I detected hints of apples, lemons, and, of course grapes. We all waited patiently until it was time to take our first sip. As they had explained, it was a dry wine, and I enjoyed the little sparkle it had. To complement the wine, they also served bread, sheep cheese, and chorizo. I tried the sheep cheese with the bread, which was really good, but I didn’t try the chorizo as I am not usually adventurous with my palate. I really enjoyed the flavorful Txakoli, and next we tried the rosé. This one was my favorite! Finally, we tried the white and red wines that the winery also produces. After tasting all the delicious wines, we enjoyed the stunning views and chatted. It was really fun getting to know everyone. We had a fun photoshoot, and I am excited to make plans with my newfound friends in the future when we return home.

by Alexander Bisceglia

I am honored to have had the opportunity this summer to go on two study abroad trips through UML. In May, I traveled to the Azores, a picturesque set of islands left relatively undisturbed by tourism and brimming with its own distinct culture. Now in July, I have had the opportunity to visit two more European countries, Spain and France. This has provided me a unique opportunity to compare and contrast these three locations that have some surprising similarities and differences. 

Going to France

On the 17th, after a shorter than usual Spanish language class, we met up with the students from Session 1 of the trip and traveled as a group to two towns in the southern tip of France. These towns were Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz, and like San Sebastian, they both are home to a large Basque population, and share the same cultural roots. However, these towns in France don’t see the same amount of Basque influence due to differences in how the Basque people were treated under both Spanish and French rule. While I didn’t have time to fully witness the culture of the French towns we visited, it was interesting to see how the Basque influence in each city differed. While there, we got ice cream and listened to a small group of musicians perform in the street, something I’ve noticed is very common here. Often we will just stumble upon a celebration by the water with live music and people dancing. We ate crepes and macarons whose recipe is such a secret that it is only known by three people. Needless to say, it was all delicious.

Architecture

Since I arrived, I have been fascinated by the architecture of San Sebastian, and Spain in general. So many of the buildings have such ornate features and beautiful designs. It feels like everywhere I look I see something as gorgeous as the only best looking buildings back home. On our bus ride up to Biarritz, I had the opportunity to watch towns pass by as we drove along the highway, and I was able to see some of the less urban architecture of the country, which is something I would not have gotten to experience had I only stayed in San Sebastian. If I can, I would love to travel to a more rural area of the Basque country later on during my stay here. As amazing as the city here is, I also would love to get to see the full picture of the people and the places here. It’s interesting to compare Spanish/European infrastructure and its counterparts in the United States as well. The roads and highways here, while functionally the same and visually very similar, are in other ways very different, including lane sizes, street signs, the color of road markings, and many other aspects. 

Cities and Tourism

Compared to the cities of Ponta Delgada and Horta in the Azores, Saint Jean de Luz and especially Biarritz seem to have a much more diverse population, likely due to the fact that they are not as secluded, and attract more tourism. Only recently has tourism grown in the Azores. From my observations, San Sebastian sits somewhere in the middle. This might be largely in part to its Basque heritage, which, similar to the culture of the Azores, is prevalent throughout every aspect of life here. It can be very easy to whittle down places like Biarritz to just its stunning beaches, but I can almost guarantee that were I to stay for an extended period of time in the region, I would be able to see the same rich cultural history that I saw in the Azores and that I see in San Sebastian.

Language Barriers

I feel very American whenever I visit somewhere that does not primarily speak English. While I took French classes in high school, I definitely don’t remember enough to feel confident speaking it to locals. I was worried when going to the Azores about the language barrier, since that was my first experience in another country that doesn’t speak English. But since then, and especially after staying in San Sebastian taking Spanish classes, I’ve become more comfortable living in a city where I might not know anything being said around or to me. Because of these prior experiences, for the first time I was able to go to a new country and feel confident getting around despite not knowing any of the language. What also helps greatly is the fact that everyone else also speaks English as a second language. When I say I feel very American, I’m referring to an experience I’ve had now in all three countries I’ve visited: I attempt to go to a store or restaurant and order something in the native language, only for the person I’m speaking to to respond in perfect English. It is definitely a humbling experience.

A Return To Town

After a long day of stunning views and sunny beaches, we returned to San Sebastian, just in time to witness the sunset along the beach. Unfortunately, I did get a flat tire on my bike earlier in the morning, which only made me realize how much I had been relying on it since I arrived in San Sebastian. Fortunately, the city also has good public transit, and is mostly walkable. I didn’t have long to mourn my tire though, not before myself and a majority of the students from Session 2 took a relaxing swim in the ocean and wandered around experiencing the night life of this amazing city.

La Clase de Español: Spanish Class

Although I have only been in San Sebastián for three days, I have come to realize that taking a Spanish class in Spain as an American study abroad student is a transformative experience that goes beyond the traditional classroom learning I am accustomed to. As a student with very little prior knowledge of Spanish, I find that Spanish class is one of my favorite parts of the day. I feel a sense of accomplishment when I learn new words and phrases that help me communicate with the wonderful people of San Sebastián. For example, in class today, I learned how to ask questions like “Can I have a croissant, please?” and “What is your name?”. Not only am I learning these phrases, but I also quickly put them to use in everyday scenarios. Today, I asked a baker at the market for a croissant in Spanish, and seeing the smile on her face because I tried communicating in her native language was incredibly rewarding. It made me realize how lucky I am to experience something so amazing.

Biking Along The Coast

After class, my friends and I rode our bikes back to the hotel. Somewhere along the busy streets of San Sebastián, we took a wrong turn and ended up along the beautiful coast. The bike ride along the coast of San Sebastián offers a breathtaking panorama that captures the essence of this coastal gem. As you pedal along the scenic route, the view unfolds into a dazzling display of natural beauty. The path winds through charming coastal villages, where colorful houses and bustling markets add a vibrant touch to the serene landscape. I have never seen anything like this view before, and although the streets were crowded with people walking, biking, and running, all I could hear were the crisp sounds of the crystal blue waves crashing on the rocks. The salty sea breeze and the warmth of the sun on our faces made the experience even more delightful. My friends and I stopped our bike ride and took countless pictures to remember this beautiful view. The unexpected detour turned into a memorable adventure, reminding us of the joys of exploring a new place.

Meeting The Author

Another amazing event that I experienced today was meeting Marti Buckley, the author of a cookbook called “The Book of Pintxos.” She introduced us to the famous small bites of Basque Country, pintxos, and the local people who make them with such passion and expertise. Her cookbook not only details how to make these delicious savory bites but also explains how to eat them like a local, the different kinds of pintxos, and the stories behind the bars that create them. I also learned a lot of interesting information about Marti herself. Something that stood out to me was that she originally lived in the United States and traveled to Spain for study abroad in college, just like our group. Her journey resonated deeply with me. She has been living in San Sebastián for 14 years now, fully immersed in the local culture and cuisine. Listening to her story, I couldn’t help but wonder if that could possibly be me in the future. Meeting someone who has successfully made a life in this beautiful city after studying abroad was incredibly inspiring. It gave me a sense of excitement and possibility for my own future adventures and potential paths in life. The idea of blending my love for travel, culture, and food into a lifelong journey now feels more tangible and enticing than ever before.

TRATTORIA La Mila

After hearing about all the delicious food Spain has to offer, a group of us decided to visit Trattoria La Mila, a restaurant that blends Italian cuisine with a hint of Spanish influence. The warm and inviting atmosphere of the restaurant immediately made us eager to dine. Arriving a bit early, the restaurant was pleasantly quiet, giving us the chance to savor our meal without rush. Despite the early hour, the quality of the food was outstanding. I opted for pasta with carbonara sauce, and the combination of creamy egg yolk and savory ham was a delight, complemented perfectly by the texture of the handmade pasta. Each bite was a culinary experience that left me wanting more. My friends enjoyed their pasta dishes equally, and by the time we finished, not a single piece of pasta or drop of sauce remained on our plates. We were so impressed that we’ve already planned to return before heading back home to the United States. Our dining experience at Trattoria La Mila was not just a meal but a memorable highlight of our time in San Sebastián, showcasing the city’s fusion of culinary traditions and its dedication to creating exceptional dining experiences.

Warm Welcome

I’ve always believed that world travel was the greatest form of education. It reverts your mind back to a time when you were small and experiencing the world with fresh eyes. Shortly upon my arrival in San Sebastian, this belief of mine was only reinforced when I found that I was tasked with getting to know the world again—little by little, sensation by sensation. 

It was all new. New air, new earth, new architecture. The only familiar thing I had as my bus arrived in San Sebastian was myself, yet I knew even that wouldn’t last. One day in, and the experience had already started to change me. 

The Culture

To take in a culture, you must start with its people, and understanding Basque people is no easy feat as an American. It so happens that I arrived on the day of a big game in fútbol: the day that Spain was to play against England. I’m not a prolific football fan myself, but I do know that one is typically expected to root for the team that plays for their city or country. This expectation does not apply to Basque Country. The Basque people have a history of rooting against Spain as a nod to their identity as Basque. So, on the very first night I arrived, I meandered through the streets as darkness fell delicately on San Sebastian to the sound of cheers ringing out from nearby bars and clubs where the game was being played. However, I had no idea who those cheers were for. Many were likely for England. In the end, when Spain won, I could only hope that the Basque wouldn’t be too disappointed.

Being in San Sebastian forces you understand the differences between cultures that exist independently of the state and ones that don’t. It starts with identity. The identity of the Basque people is powerful, important, and even revolutionary; they are a people who will not be overlooked. For this, I am grateful. I had the opportunity to order txakoli and pintxos in Old Town and felt as if I had been sent to heaven. Basque gastronomy is certainly something to behold, and I haven’t even scratched the surface. 

Spanish Class

The morning bike ride to my first Spanish class at Lacunza was beautiful and refreshing. We struggled to navigate the bike lanes and made some clumsy errors (such as biking on the pavement, which we learned was a big no-no), but the struggle—along with the burn in my legs from biking uphill—could not compete with the salty smell of the ocean in the air. With sweat on my face and callouses forming on my hands, I arrived at Lacunza feeling like my child-self, fresh from playing outside. 

My Spanish class with Lacunza was exactly what language classes should be. Confusing, uncomfortable, and effective. It was as if I was in the midst of a productive dialogue that was getting more and more comprehensive by the minute. The instructor spoke slowly and clearly in her native tongue, making gestures so we could intuitively catch on despite our lack of knowledge. Once again, I felt like a child. It was like learning to speak for the first time. I could practically feel the elasticity in my brain increase! At times, as I stumbled over poorly pronounced Spanish, I couldn’t help but smile. This was exactly how I’d always dreamed of learning, especially with it being alongside people from so many other cultures. I met people from France, Germany, Switzerland, England, and many more countries. I learned about their lives over coffee, cookies, and Spanish tortilla.

The City

The first thing I noticed about San Sebastian was the architecture. I couldn’t help but feel mesmerized at the sight of its buildings. The tallest building in San Sebastian, whose spires and turrets tower over the city, is the cathedral. Its magnificent stature appears medieval over the quaint structures which line the beach front. For me, the cathedral acts as a sort of navigator. You see it and know exactly where you are in relation to it, which has been helping me find my way around the city. The lights, the smell of delicious food, and the history all followed me as we went on a walking tour with a wonderful guide who was ready to answer any questions we had about the places we passed.

What must be said about this extraordinary city and the experience that comes with visiting it is that the place is proud, and rightfully so. They walk confidently, they gesticulate animatedly, their children play unabashedly in the streets, and many of their dogs roam freely. They are kind, but not enough to treat you like you are stupid. Not in San Sebastian. You arrive with wonder, with a thousand questions, or maybe just one. This is a city that has the answer, but it won’t tell you what it is. You come here agreeing to figure it out yourself. 

Follow students as they take learning outside the classroom and are exposed to structured situations and experiences through a Humanities lens in San Sebastian, Spain. Chosen as the 2016 European Capital of Culture, San Sebastian offers students the best of both worlds: a modern Europe-an city with an Old Quarter that preserves its rich legacy of history and culture. Students will be immersed in the culture of San Sebastian through field trips and excursions, on-site lectures, an examination of Basque and Spanish history, politics, culture, geography, cuisine, literature, cinema, sport, and art. To learn more please contact us.