The last two days of the trip we were given free time with guidance. We could explore the island however we wanted whether by foot, excursion, or tour. All we had to do attend one final lecture on the 28th. The first day we mostly slept in but explored the island and all it had to offer. I walked very very far and took photos. I drank espresso with locals, got lunch and just had a relaxing day.

Our final lecture was after going to another hot spring and ceramic manufacturing area. The lecture allowed us to critique and discuss our current photos and concepts for our books. We also watched a short film that the professor had made about wine. Very relieving and allowed to conceptualize everything we had been working on.

Meanwhile, Sebastian used a social media app to meet a local girl that was willing to hang out and show us around on our last full night. She and her friends picked a few of us up and we explored more “off the beaten path” types of places. Seeing areas we had already visited on the way was surreal. To be in such a familiar place and still feel elements of nostalgia and memory was a strange feeling. The girls spoke good English so as we visited other springs, mountains, and a beach we compared and contrasted the social, political, and lifestyle aspects of American life to Portuguese life.

Waking up in Terceira the next day was like waking up on a new place. Everything cleaned up and an entirely sober and functioning place with a whole new day’s light. This time for the tour we had an actual bus to tour in before our flight back to Ponta Delgada. We spent the day exploring the land and did not see too many things differently than the other islands. We explored high lookout points and an amazing area of natural pools that we swam in. Most notably was a statue we went by for a major bullfighting arena. It was so large, abstract, and was completely black unlike anything else across the islands. Although the general look of all of the islands remained the same between the three we visited; it was clear each one had it’s own personality.

After the tour, we were taken to the airport to go back to the island this whole trip started at, Ponta Delgada. This time we were in the more “urban” area. We arrived on the day of a festival that littered the streets with flowers arranged in beautiful images alongside carts, churches, and shops all decorated for the occasion. We caught the tail end of it and I took the opportunity to take portraits of locals and shop for any gifts I thought I needed to get. We arrived in the afternoon so besides witnessing the end of the festivus we relaxed and watched the end of the locals enjoying their holiday.

Terceira was the most sociable island. Partying. Festivals. Friends. Connections. We went there with full intentions to join in the run of the bulls. We did. It was perfect for an adrenaline junky like myself. Most of the group got up close and personal with all four bulls of the day. Following the run of the bulls we returned to a house I had stopped at earlier to use the bathroom. There we met a father and daughter that had close ties to Massachusetts and hosted their own friend’s house in a shockingly hospitable way. We all talked and shared drinks discussing their roots in both Portuguese and American music. Making friends and connections with complete strangers is a commonality in the Azores unlike in America where everyone is very self-oriented. After becoming close we all walked not too far to a local bar with live music. The father and daughter we met actually spent a portion of the night on stage playing music that all of us could enjoy together. It was a night to remember.

Graciosa is a quaint island that is near silent at night and had endless farms and vineyards. We made the most of it by trying all new kinds of food that, when being ordered, we didn’t know what to expect because the menus were exclusively in Portuguese. Staying in a luxurious and empty 4-star hotel that seemed deserving of 5-stars. Especially considering it was run by basically one man who made us feel very welcome. We ate at restaurants where English was generally useless and created a good headway into a strictly Portuguese society that is unscathed by tourism. We had to just point at the menus and eat what we got. Our tour guides for this island were far more silent except for one tour guide who went above and beyond helping us have fun at night in such a small town. During the days we explored a cave that was a magma chamber for an already erupted volcano. That was awe-inspiring seeing such natural structures let alone the accent of modern architecture all around these areas creating such a beautiful contrast. We also explored docks, more hot springs and most spots the island had to offer. Meeting up with the Mayor of the island was also surreal to see how equal and well-treated everyone, even visitors, is. We also spent a part of our days there following cows to be milked and had the opportunity to learn how that process works (mechanically) but also try milking cows manually which was a smelly but good experience. We also joined in an annual religious procession called, “Procession of Penance of Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe to the Monte da Ajuda” atop a large hill and witnessed a Catholic mass. From there we explored a bullfighting arena on our own and explored individual photographic concepts. We also met an established Italian artist that let us see his acres of land littered with an endangered species of donkeys and his amazing modern home. On the way back we knew we were heading to Terceira next and mentioned the run of the bulls. We stopped at a farm with a baby bull we had the opportunity to practice the experience with. Sebastian and I had a run for our money but enjoyed the experience.

To meet locals and see the heart of the Azores that has maintained the integrity of the culture helped solidify my book concept. I thought it was amazing how a place so small with growing tourism is so self-sustainable, unique, and remains prepared to face an influx of visitors but keep its roots displayed and thriving.

The first night involved little rest as we all were out of normal sleep schedules from the time zones. But alas, we all got together in the morning and went to another lecture on social activism for the lower class Azorean citizens by using photography. It was in the military museum which was amazing to explore. Lots of old buildings, architecture, supplies, and weapons were on display offering an interesting sight and opportunity to learn. Afterwards, we met our tour guides for San Miguel who were hilarious and very active. We went up to an old volcanic area littered with hot springs and the scent of sulfur. Offering endless sights for photos we got to swim in the hot springs which was a new experience for me that I have always wanted to do. Learned about how thin the Earth’s crust is there and how that affects the islands. We also had the opportunity to try eating food that was cooked and prepared being buried within a special pot in the ground where it was extremely hot.

At this point, I was developing my concept for my photo book and decided to use almost entirely film photography. I used some digital just to capture everything because the amount of film I had was limited to what I had brought from home.

Day 3 of the trip we woke up and went to the town hall of Ponta Delgada to meet with Teavish (Unsure of spelling) and discussed the growing tourism industry as well as how the islands coexist and function as a whole. From there we had a travel day that led us on a flight to Terceira for a local lunch that felt more like a feast. I tried exotic foods such as cow tongue, octopus (not fried) and sampled a variety of wine and other local treats. Seeing the plates of meats was an experience in its own right. I do not usually eat meat that much especially off the bone but tried it for the sake of the experience and adapting to the culture.  After lunch, we flew to Graciosa where we stayed for the next two days.

We left for the Azores at night crossing into a timezone 4 hours ahead. That was brutal. Upon arrival, we had some time to unwind from the flight but shortly ended up at the University of Azores. We attended lectures from the professors that we a majority of us were able to be awake for after basically skipping sleep for the night before. The first lecture welcomed us to the Azores and discussed the plants and vegetation across the islands and how they play a role in the history and community of the islands. After a break, we attended another lecture that involved a miniature walking tour. We learned about the architecture and city planning around the Ponta Delgada. Afterward, despite being tired the whole group, who already knew each other from previous classes, bonded the experience of staying up all night together and the Game of Thrones season finale.

Today was the morning of the religious procession through the towns of Graciosa up to a mountain top church. At least one person from every household is supposed to participate and some even walk barefoot. I chose to not participate in the procession but rather watch and photograph from the sidelines until it was out of view. Afterwards I walked around the city taking photos and exploring before sitting in the park in the city’s center.

Once the whole group was back together we walked to the Museu Graciosa which was opened just for us. The guide showed us different farming tools, wine production tools, and other cool items from history.

After the museum the tour guides asked us if we wanted to see a whale and of course the whole group said yes! Turns out this “whale” is actually a giant whale shaped rock in the ocean near a big lighthouse. It was a pretty entertaining trick. We were able to explore around the lighthouse and down to a cliffs edge that looked into an ocean cove. I sat on the wall of a building away from the cliffs edge and just took in the views and listened to the sounds of the ocean. It was incredibly peaceful.

In the afternoon we saw some dwarf donkeys that are becoming extinct and are famous on Graciosa. As we were petting and taking photos of the donkeys, the owner drove up and invited us to his backyard to see the babies. He is a famous art director that is actually making a film about the donkeys starting the following day. Once in the back, we were led to another field and shown the other small donkeys. They really loved our Prof. Anna and nibbled on her constantly.

The end of our tour was more scenic overlooks of the island. One of the stops was at another cove surrounded by natural orange rock walls. I don’t think I have ever seen that color out in nature before.

Today we had breakfast at the same cafe as yesterday before heading to our first lecture. Today the lecture took place at the Military Museum of São Miguel. It was a discussion about how photography can change the world and the project that Prof. Eduardo Marques was working on with the poor and homeless. He showed some examples of the photos that the homeless took and how thought out and intentional they were. I was truly blown away and very proud of the project they were putting together to send an important message.

After the lecture we had some time to explore the military museum. It was part of an old fortress for the World Wars so it was cool to explore all the tunnels and memorabilia. We were also able to go onto the roof of the fort which gave amazing views of the city and harbor. I absolutely love history so I really enjoyed exploring this place and hearing different stories about it.

Afterwards we went back to the hotel to collect everything we would need for the day. We had a full day tour and our first stop was at a small church at the top of a big mountain. We were literally up in the clouds and the view was incredible. Next to the church there was a maybe 20 foot cross that was truly awe inspiring. The inside of the church was actually pretty small and simple but beautiful nonetheless. I was able to light a candle for my grandmother which felt very powerful and peaceful.

Next we made out way to the thermal springs and botanical gardens. The springs were and orangey color which was definitely interesting. I had never been in a natural spring like that before and it was amazing. After swimming in the spring for a while I walked around the gardens which had beautiful flowers, ponds, and waterfalls.

The next stop was in Furnas where they use the natural thermal heat to cook their food in underground pots. It smelled like sulfur but wasn’t as overpowering as I thought it was going to and it was really cool to feel how warm the ground was. The cats that were wandering around definitely loved the warmth! We then drove to a restaurant that served food cooked in the underground pots. It was surprisingly very good.

Our last couple stops were at different scenic outlooks that gave us views of the island. The way the fields were set up and the dark rocky coasts reminded me of Ireland a lot which was very different than what I was expecting of a tropical island.

We landed in Ponta Delgada, São Miguel around 6am. The plane was landing as the sun was riding and it was beautiful. We were all pretty tired from the overnight flight so we were very happy when we were able to check into our hotel early and change before breakfast.

We walked to a little cafe that had amazing pastries for breakfast. European breakfasts are very different than American ones but the light food was perfect.

After breakfast we had our first lecture at the University of the Azores, which was just a short walk from our hotel. This first lecture was about the historical gardens of the Azores by Prof. Isabel Soares de Albergaria. It was fascinating to learn about how the majority of the flora in the Azores was actually brought from other parts of the world. This led to a very unique landscape that I was not expecting.

Next there was a break for lunch before we headed back for our second lecture on the architecture of Ponta Delgada by Prof. Andrea Henrique Marques. We started in the classroom learning the history of how the city grew and how the marina changed based on the needs at the time. Then we left with the professor to continue the lecture on a walking tour so we could actually see the architecture in person.

At the end of the tour, the professor pointed out a few locations for the group to eat at for dinner. We chose a cafe near the ocean and this was my first introduction to the amazing cheeses the Azores produce.

After dinner we all headed back to the hotel and continued to hand out in a group in someone’s room. This was a really fun time for me because on my other study it took a longer time for everyone to get close with each other. Since our group had had multiple classes with each other we were already comfortable and able to have fun all together on day 1!