When I first heard about studying abroad in Paris, the first things that came to mind were the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and the cafés on nearly every street. Although this is what Paris is known for, being on this trip has shown me that Paris is also a city that has been shaped by its history and culture. My Thursday began with the Le Paris Noir – Right Bank Walking Tour and ended deep beneath the streets in the Catacombs. These two experiences helped me view Paris from a different angle compared to what is always seen on the internet.
Our morning started with a metro ride to Blanche Station, where we met with our guide, Kevi. Prior to the tour, I did not know that such history existed on the streets of Paris, but Kevi demonstrated otherwise. Throughout the tour he explained how deeply Black Americans influenced Paris during the early twentieth century. Kevi talked about Pigalle and how it is described as “Harlem-sur-Seine”. He also stated how Black American soldiers, including the Harlem Hellfighters, helped introduce jazz to France during World War I. Although many returned home to segregation and discrimination, they were able to find admiration in France, where jazz became an important part of Parisian culture. It was quite interesting learning how something like music is able to connect people from different backgrounds while also shaping and influencing another country’s identity.
As the tour proceeded, Kevi spoke about Montmartre. He taught us that Montmartre became an artistic center because it was once an affordable working-class neighborhood where artists were able to experiment freely. We were able to learn about Le Bateau-Lavoir and Pablo Picasso’s early years. Learning about this showed how artistic movements developed through collaboration. It was interesting to see how African art influenced many European artists, showing that creativity is often shaped through cultural exchange.
A part of the tour that stood out was learning about the Black American artists and writers who found new opportunities in Paris. We were told about Henry Ossawa Tanner, Palmer Hayden, Buford Delaney, and James Baldwin. Their stories demonstrated that Paris offered many opportunities that were difficult to find in the United States. Because of these opportunities, they were able to develop their work in an environment with greater freedom.
We learned about many people throughout this tour but the one who left an impression on me was Josephine Baker. I did not know much about her, but our tour taught me much more about her life, which was interesting. Josephine Baker became one of Paris’s biggest stars during a difficult time in history. She served in the French Resistance during World War II by helping gather information and later returned to the United States to support the Civil Rights Movement. She even spoke at the 1963 March on Washington. Josephine Baker did not just represent artistic success but also a commitment to justice.
As our tour was coming to an end, we spoke about the more difficult parts of French history. We talked about France’s relationship with immigration, the country’s colonial past, and the long process of acknowledging the Vichy government’s role during World War II. Kevi took us to the front of a school where we saw the memorial dedicated to Jewish children who were deported. Seeing this made the events feel much more personal compared to reading about them in a textbook. This tour reminded me that there is a lot more behind the streets you walk on. You may think that it is a normal street, but you never know what has happened on it or the impact it has had on someone.
After the tour, some friends and I visited the Paris Catacombs later that evening. After spending the day learning about the history above ground, walking beneath the streets of Paris and learning about history beneath the ground felt like a full circle conclusion. Walking through the tunnels lined with the remains of millions of Parisians gave an overwhelming feeling. It was both fascinating and unsettling. It reminded me how temporary life is and how although Paris is drawn as a city of beauty and romance, it also carries another reality.
As my time in France comes to an end, I look back on my time spent here. Rather than showing us another famous neighborhood, we were challenged and inspired to think about whose stories are remembered and whose are often overlooked. Paris has inspired me in many ways and helped me view life from a different perspective. This city is defined by its landmarks throughout the internet but today has shown me that it is also defined by the artists, soldiers, immigrants, and activists who helped shape it. This perspective has become one of the most important and meaningful lessons I will take home from this study abroad experience.