Day 3: Off to Toledo!

Gorgeous view of Toledo, taken by Ethan Soule

On March 10th, the UMass Lowell study abroad group travelled to Toledo to explore the area through a walking tour. The 45-minute bus ride was worth it in order to see the impeccable view of the small town. The architecture was something I didn’t have the opportunity to see yet, being older houses in shades of tan and terracotta. The mountainous landscape had a surplus of greenery, ranging from simple shrubbery to olive trees. When our bus came to a hault, our tour guide brought us to our first feature; the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes.

The Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes

The Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes was our first stop, and it immediately captivated me. The intricate details of its facade were awe-inspiring. As we stood in front of the monastery, I marveled at the statues of monks and royal symbols adorning the building’s surface. These elements were not mere decoration but carried deep historical significance. The chains hanging on the facade, remnants from the time of the conquest of Granada, told a story of Christian captives who were once freed by the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella. The chains were placed on the building as a tribute to their liberation and the divine protection they believed guided the monarchs.

Upon entering, the monastery continued to impress with its stunning architecture and art. The inside was adorned with exquisite paintings, and the layout was peaceful, embodying the tranquility often associated with religious spaces. What stood out the most to me was the orange tree planted in the central courtyard. It wasn’t just a decorative plant; it was a thriving, living tree that has been maintained by the monastery’s inhabitants for centuries. This simple yet striking feature was a reminder of the continuous life within the monastery, despite the many centuries it has stood.

The Cathedral of St. Mary

Outside the Cathedral of St. Mary

Next, we ventured to the Cathedral of St. Mary, another awe-inspiring site. The cathedral is a marvel of Gothic architecture, and the experience of walking through it felt like stepping back in time. The most striking feature inside was the large window in the turret, which allowed natural light to pour into the cathedral. It was surrounded by ornate paintings depicting idyllic landscapes and sculpted cherubs, which added to the overall serene atmosphere of the cathedral. This window, being an essential source of light, was an ingenious solution to the challenges faced by the architects of the time. The lack of modern electrical lighting at the time meant that natural light was a vital part of the building’s design, and this window served as a stunning example of the beauty that can come from practical needs.

As we continued to explore the cathedral, we encountered more intricate artwork, including a series of paintings that reflected the diverse cultural influences of Toledo. The city’s unique history as a meeting point for different cultures (Christian, Jewish, and Muslim) is evident in its architecture and art. Each piece we saw seemed to tell a story, adding layers of meaning to the cathedral’s already rich history.

Exploring Toledo

After our guided tour, we had some free time to explore the city on our own. My friends and I immediately decided to try one of Toledo’s most famous delicacies: marzipan. This almond-flavored treat, popular in Spain, is particularly well-known in Toledo, where it has been made for centuries. Toledo’s marzipan shops remain open throughout the year, offering the soft, slightly sweet confection. It was unlike any marzipan I had tasted before; subtle and perfectly balanced in sweetness. It quickly became one of my favorite foods in Spain.

As we wandered through the city, we couldn’t resist popping into various souvenir shops, most of which were filled with Don Quijote memorabilia. Toledo’s connection to Miguel de Cervantes’ famous novel is strong, and there were numerous items related to the story. We explored the narrow, winding streets, which seemed to lead us into another world with every turn. However, all good things must come to an end, and our time in Toledo was soon over. We boarded the bus back to Madrid, where an unexpected event occurred. On the way, a moment of road rage resulted in a minor car crash. Thankfully, no one was seriously injured, and we were able to safely walk the final stretch back to our hotel.

Ending the Day

Ice Cream at Toto!

Toledo was the perfect place to celebrate my birthday, which I shared with my study abroad group. After returning to Madrid, I decided to take a break from the tapas-heavy Spanish cuisine that had been a staple of our meals. A few of the girls and I ventured to a lovely Italian restaurant, where I indulged in some of the most delicious gnocchi I’ve ever had. The meal was a welcome change from the rich, meaty dishes of Spain. But no dinner is complete without dessert, and we ended the evening with ice cream. The flavors were different from what we have back home in the United States, yet they were far superior in taste and texture.

The day in Toledo was unforgettable, filled with historical landmarks, rich cultural experiences, delicious food, and, of course, the joy of celebrating my birthday abroad. It was the kind of day that not only enriched my understanding of Spain but also deepened my appreciation for the country’s history and traditions. Though our time in Toledo was short, it left a lasting impression that I will carry with me for years to come.