Saturday, March 8th: Arrival

After attending my two Friday classes and doing some last-minute packing, I went to Boston Logan International Airport. The group’s flight itineraries were different, so a few other participants in the program and I had a night flight and did not arrive in Madrid until later Saturday. We had a layover in Lisbon, Portugal, where I used Euros for the first time, and I tried European matcha, which I found to be delicious. After many hours of travel, we arrived at the Adolfo Suarez Madrid-Barajas Airport. We claimed our baggage and then located the Metro. The Metro is fast and reliable. I liked how often trains came, so if you missed one you did not have to wait a long time for the next to arrive. It was slightly tricky to navigate at first, but with some assistance, we were able to find our way to Hotel Regina. The hotel was clean and modern, and the staff was welcoming, as well as helpful. Although rainy upon arrival, the city was still breathtaking. Fascinating architecture and bustling streets, there were many things to give an eye to. 

A few friends and I settled on a sushi spot by the name of ‘Le Club Sushita’ for dinner. We stuck to cuisine we were familiar with, but not to fret, we ventured out and tried some amazing Spanish cuisine later on. One of our dishes at the restaurant had prawns, which are commonly paired with sushi but also have specific significance in Spain. Prawns are featured in many Spanish dishes, including paella and gambas al ajillo. Paella is a dish that includes rice, saffron, vegetables, and seafood. Gambas al ajillo includes shrimp or prawns sauteed in olive oil with garlic. We had some delicious paella during our farewell dinner, and I found it to be a fantastic way to say our goodbyes to the city. 

For Spanish cuisine, a favorite of mine was empanada de rabo de toro or bull’s tail empanada. Our tour guide for Las Ventas informed us that bull’s tail was one of if not the best meat in the world. I have had it previously since bull’s tail, referred to as “oxtail,” is a staple in Jamaican cuisine. Although the seasoning was a lot different, it was just as delicious. These were not the only empanadas I had in Madrid, other fillings were chicken and cheese. Empanadas are believed to have originated in the Galicia region of Spain, with possible influences from Arabic meat-filled pies. The word “empanada” comes from the Spanish verb “empanar,” meaning “to wrap in bread,” and its original fillings included seafood, which alongside prawns highlight the importance of the country’s coastal regions. As the food spread, it adapted a wide variety of fillings and dough types and eventually became a dish enjoyed worldwide. I love empanadas, and I understand why they are regarded this way.

La Plaza de Toros Las Ventas was a favorite visit of mine. It is the largest bullfighting ring in Spain, seating around 23,000 people. It was built using Mudejar-style architecture, which showcases the coexistence of Muslims and Christians, emerging in the 12th century from the Iberian Peninsula. Red brick and ceramic tiles are the main features shown. The bullring holds immense cultural and historical significance as a central venue for bullfights and other events, such as concerts. The most popular concerts have been for artists like The Beatles and AC/DC. We received a tour of the bullring and the Bullfighting Museum. The museum displayed the belongings of bullfighters that had a great impact and offered more insight into the history of the practice. The attire of bullfighters, called “traje de luces,” is visually appealing, involving striking colors and various embellishments. Photography was not allowed in the museum, but I recall being drawn to one that was a vibrant purple. 

Our first day was rainy, but the sun made appearances throughout the trip, allowing us to admire the city for all it has to offer. The architecture speaks to the rich history, denoting styles that have Gothic and Baroque influences. There is also the prominent feature of balconies, which are multi-purpose, useful when viewing street life, and provide air circulation. Although my later arrival did not allow me to explore right away, I still had a great first impression. This impression carried its way through the entirety of the trip, and I can say that I had a great time exploring Madrid and other cities in Spain. The country remains on my travel list because I need to revisit it.

Day 3: Off to Toledo!

Gorgeous view of Toledo, taken by Ethan Soule

On March 10th, the UMass Lowell study abroad group travelled to Toledo to explore the area through a walking tour. The 45-minute bus ride was worth it in order to see the impeccable view of the small town. The architecture was something I didn’t have the opportunity to see yet, being older houses in shades of tan and terracotta. The mountainous landscape had a surplus of greenery, ranging from simple shrubbery to olive trees. When our bus came to a hault, our tour guide brought us to our first feature; the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes.

The Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes

The Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes was our first stop, and it immediately captivated me. The intricate details of its facade were awe-inspiring. As we stood in front of the monastery, I marveled at the statues of monks and royal symbols adorning the building’s surface. These elements were not mere decoration but carried deep historical significance. The chains hanging on the facade, remnants from the time of the conquest of Granada, told a story of Christian captives who were once freed by the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella. The chains were placed on the building as a tribute to their liberation and the divine protection they believed guided the monarchs.

Upon entering, the monastery continued to impress with its stunning architecture and art. The inside was adorned with exquisite paintings, and the layout was peaceful, embodying the tranquility often associated with religious spaces. What stood out the most to me was the orange tree planted in the central courtyard. It wasn’t just a decorative plant; it was a thriving, living tree that has been maintained by the monastery’s inhabitants for centuries. This simple yet striking feature was a reminder of the continuous life within the monastery, despite the many centuries it has stood.

The Cathedral of St. Mary

Outside the Cathedral of St. Mary

Next, we ventured to the Cathedral of St. Mary, another awe-inspiring site. The cathedral is a marvel of Gothic architecture, and the experience of walking through it felt like stepping back in time. The most striking feature inside was the large window in the turret, which allowed natural light to pour into the cathedral. It was surrounded by ornate paintings depicting idyllic landscapes and sculpted cherubs, which added to the overall serene atmosphere of the cathedral. This window, being an essential source of light, was an ingenious solution to the challenges faced by the architects of the time. The lack of modern electrical lighting at the time meant that natural light was a vital part of the building’s design, and this window served as a stunning example of the beauty that can come from practical needs.

As we continued to explore the cathedral, we encountered more intricate artwork, including a series of paintings that reflected the diverse cultural influences of Toledo. The city’s unique history as a meeting point for different cultures (Christian, Jewish, and Muslim) is evident in its architecture and art. Each piece we saw seemed to tell a story, adding layers of meaning to the cathedral’s already rich history.

Exploring Toledo

After our guided tour, we had some free time to explore the city on our own. My friends and I immediately decided to try one of Toledo’s most famous delicacies: marzipan. This almond-flavored treat, popular in Spain, is particularly well-known in Toledo, where it has been made for centuries. Toledo’s marzipan shops remain open throughout the year, offering the soft, slightly sweet confection. It was unlike any marzipan I had tasted before; subtle and perfectly balanced in sweetness. It quickly became one of my favorite foods in Spain.

As we wandered through the city, we couldn’t resist popping into various souvenir shops, most of which were filled with Don Quijote memorabilia. Toledo’s connection to Miguel de Cervantes’ famous novel is strong, and there were numerous items related to the story. We explored the narrow, winding streets, which seemed to lead us into another world with every turn. However, all good things must come to an end, and our time in Toledo was soon over. We boarded the bus back to Madrid, where an unexpected event occurred. On the way, a moment of road rage resulted in a minor car crash. Thankfully, no one was seriously injured, and we were able to safely walk the final stretch back to our hotel.

Ending the Day

Ice Cream at Toto!

Toledo was the perfect place to celebrate my birthday, which I shared with my study abroad group. After returning to Madrid, I decided to take a break from the tapas-heavy Spanish cuisine that had been a staple of our meals. A few of the girls and I ventured to a lovely Italian restaurant, where I indulged in some of the most delicious gnocchi I’ve ever had. The meal was a welcome change from the rich, meaty dishes of Spain. But no dinner is complete without dessert, and we ended the evening with ice cream. The flavors were different from what we have back home in the United States, yet they were far superior in taste and texture.

The day in Toledo was unforgettable, filled with historical landmarks, rich cultural experiences, delicious food, and, of course, the joy of celebrating my birthday abroad. It was the kind of day that not only enriched my understanding of Spain but also deepened my appreciation for the country’s history and traditions. Though our time in Toledo was short, it left a lasting impression that I will carry with me for years to come.

Welcome!

In this study abroad course, UMass Lowell’s Honors College will explore the past and present of Spain’s vibrant capital city: Madrid!

Follow UMass Lowell Honors College students and faculty as they immerse themselves in the culture and history of Madrid, Spain. UMass Lowell Honors College and the Office of Study Abroad and International Experiences offers this exciting short-term study abroad program to Madrid, Spain.

Looking for more information? Please feel free to contact us.

Please email: Julian_Zabalbeascoa@uml.edu.

For information about UMass Lowell’s Study Abroad program, please visit the International Experiences and Study Abroad website or contact Fern MacKinnon by email: Fern_MacKinnon@uml.edu.