Goodbye Madrid

And just like that, it was our last day here in Madrid. I’m shocked over how much we were able to accomplish in just one week. Each day was filled with new experiences—whether it was exploring hidden corners of the city, trying local food, or learning more about Spanish history and culture. As the week came to a close, it didn’t feel real that we’d be leaving so soon. Our final day was bittersweet: a chance to soak up the city one last time, reflect on the memories we made, and say goodbye (for now) to a place that quickly started to feel like home.

To start off the day we went to Valley of the Fallen. Located in Sierra de Guadarrama mountains was a beautiful 500-foot-tall cross, one of the tallest in the world. This monument was dedicated for all the people who died during the Spanish Civil War. Over 33,000 people are buried here including Franco himself who was buried there in 1975, but was then relocated in 2019 to a family cemetery.

Following our visit we went to lunch at La Fragua de Vulcano. This was definitely a hidden gem that spanish locals only know about, but we happened to stumble across by luck. The restaurant was very cozy inside with a rustic atmosphere to it. The food was also phenomenal. Every bite was packed with so much flavor. By far this was my favorite restaurant we visited in Madrid. Chatting with the locals there was also a highlight. The Spaniards we met were incredibly friendly and welcoming, always happy to share a story or recommend their favorite dish.

After lunch, I did some shopping at Gran Via, one of the busiest and most iconic streets in Madrid. The energy there was contagious—locals and tourists weaving through shops, music playing from storefronts, and the architecture towering above in every direction. I picked up a few souvenirs to bring home with me. Walking down Gran Vía felt like the perfect way to end the trip: a final stroll through the heart of the city, surrounded by all the color and life that makes Madrid so special.

At 7:00PM we had our last farewell dinner with the whole group. It was a bittersweet moment—everyone dressed up a little, laughing, taking pictures, and trying to soak in the final hours together. We ate paella, which felt like the perfect dish to close out our time in Spain. The pan came out sizzling, full of vibrant colors and flavors—seafood, rice, saffron, and that signature crispy bottom layer everyone fights over. We passed plates around, shared memories from the week, and talked about everything from our favorite moments to how strange it would feel to back home the next day.

What started as a short study abroad trip quickly became something much more—an experience full of learning, laughter, and connection. From standing in front of centuries-old monuments to sharing meals and stories with new friends, I’m walking away with memories I’ll carry for a lifetime. Saying goodbye was tough, but I know this isn’t the end—just the beginning of many more adventures to come.

A Week in Madrid, Spain!

After spending a week in a foreign country with a bunch of strangers, I really feel like I am immersed in the Spanish culture. I think I can speak for everyone when I say that this experience was once in a lifetime. I have made lifelong friendships, and made memories that I will remember for a long time. I believe that throwing yourself into the culture of a different country is the best way to experience it. My week in Spain has truly been incredible and I would recommend this to everyone.   

We started off the week jet lagged from the plane ride, hungry from not being adjusted to the eating culture, and soaked from all the rain. We were all so tired. Despite that, we trudged on and did a lot of exploring and walking around the city. Everyone was getting to know each other. The group that I spent time together with played a lot of games to get to know each other. I thought it was funny, I felt like I was in a summer camp.   

The second day was much more interesting. We got to go to the Reina Sofía Museum which was so cool. I loved seeing the art, especially the large paintings. I enjoy figuring out what the artist’s message was behind the painting. I was impressed by the painting by Picasso. I thought it was amazing to see just how large the painting was. My only complaint was that we did not spend enough time in the museum. After the museum we went to a flea market which was so fun! It was also the biggest flea market I have ever seen. We spent over an hour there and we still only brushed the surface of it. My group of friends had plans to see a castle in Segovia, but we ended up missing the train. I was disappointed but it goes to show how traveling is so unpredictable and even though we are disappointed, we prevailed, and we went to a good tapas bar instead and had a fun day.  

At Reina Sofía
Tapas!

On Monday, we took a bus to Toledo. I thought that this trip was amazing. There were beautiful views of the city. I enjoyed that we got to learn about the areas around Madrid, like Toledo, on top of learning about Madrid. The architecture was beautiful, not only in Toledo but in Madrid too. I loved seeing the old buildings and the art that was created so long ago. It is astonishing that people were able to create such detailed and massive works of art with much less materials than we have now.  

The view of Toledo!

On Tuesday and Wednesday, we had informational morning lectures where we learned more about the history of Madrid and the cities significance in the Spanish Civil war. I was especially interested in how the war still affects Madrid currently. After the lectures we had time to explore the city on our own. By the end of the week, we became professionals at navigating the metro. I appreciate just how easy navigating around this city was. Navigating the subway in Boston is easy if you know where you are going, but the metro in Madrid is easier. I was much more confident in my navigation skills after this week.   

The beautiful views from the rooftop!

The nightlife in Madrid was fun, too. Dinnertime in Spain is from 9:00-11:00 at night, which is quite different from what I am used to. It took about half the trip for my body to get used to the different eating times. One night the whole group went out to dinner at around 10:00 at night at a rooftop restaurant where we could see the entire city. The lights were beautiful, it was one of the best views of the whole trip. And the food and drinks were delicious! Even when we left at around 12:30, there were still plenty of people out and about despite it being so late at night.  

On Thursday, we went to a bullfighting ring, which was cool. Bullfighting has been a large part of Spanish culture since the 1700s and still happens today. Unfortunately, the bullfighting season is from May to October, so we did not see a bullfight, but we saw the ring where they hold the events. Along with the bullfighting, we got to experience another large part of the Spanish culture, flamenco dancing. As a group we went to a flamenco show where we saw amazing dancers. I loved the show. The show is 90% improvisation! Flamenco is such a large part of Spanish culture, and I was so excited to see it firsthand.   

On our last day we went to The Valley of the Fallen. This monument is where Spain’s dictator Franco was buried until a few years ago. This monument is dedicated to his rule and consists of a huge church on the top of a mountain. People still visit it every week to pray. It had pretty views of the countryside where we took many pictures.  

Paellas!

Later that night, we went to a farewell dinner. This is where we reminisced on our trip, and we realized we were all incredibly sad to leave the next day. Despite being sad that we were leaving, we got to reminisce over delicious paellas. This is a famous rice dish that includes several types of meats and veggies. My favorites were seafood and chicken.  

I am so fortunate to have gotten the chance to experience this study abroad opportunity. This week is something I will never forget! 

Final Day: Valley of the Fallen & Farewell Dinner

With the dawn on our final day in Madrid, it was unbelievable that the trip was coming to an end. The week had been a blur of architecture, art, tapas, and many “wow” moments, but today would leave its own unique mark.

With one of the latest starts of the trip at 10:30am, we were able to get some extra sleep in. Before setting out for the day, we had breakfast at the hotel, which was served buffet style with everything from fruit, to eggs, to ham, to pastries, and more. The breakfast was always immaculate and a perfect way to help wake up and energize each day. Then, we set out, boarding the bus still half-asleep but buzzing with anticipation. Where were we going? Our destination was the Valle de los Caídos, or Valley of the Fallen, which was renamed to Valle de Cuelgamuros, or Valley of the Hanging Walls in 2022. I’d heard it was a controversial site, grand, solemn, and steeped in Spain’s complex political history, but nothing could have prepared me for the scale of it.

Carved from the Guadarrama hills, the Valley of the Fallen is dominated by a colossal stone cross, standing at 150 meters high and recognizable miles away. Fun fact: the cross is the largest cross in the world when measured from the base of the cross to the top of the cross. The basilica, tunnelled half-way into the hillside, is dark and cold-iced. It’s a site of remembrance and provocation, built under the Franco regime and once the resting place of his tomb before he was relocated in 2019 because the Valley of the Fallen is a resting place for those who died during the Spanish Civil War, and because Franco didn’t die until around 35 years after the war ended, he was removed after many people pushed for him to be removed. Walking through the enormous stone halls, accompanied by statues and veiled from the sun, I was filled with wonder and dread. History held heavy upon this place, the world’s attention in no way came close to diminishing the significance this was not an edifice at all, but a reflection upon the stresses and recollections of a country learning to forgive and forget. Our guide gave perspective, defining the lives lost in the Spanish Civil War, slave labor used in its construction, and how Spain still grapples with its past. An example of this is that when we were standing around Franco’s old tomb discussing Spain’s history, there were two men waiting for us to walk away in order to pay their respects to Franco at his old tomb. Altogether, the visit to the Valley of the Fallen was a humbling and strong experience unlike many others.

After returning to Madrid around midday/early afternoon, the mood shifted. Having the remainder of the afternoon to ourselves, some of us wandered around the lively streets in search of last-minute souvenirs. First, I stopped at a souvenir shop in order to pick up some gifts for friends and family. This included magnets, bracelets, and a shirt. Afterwards, we kept walking around the city and some of us wanted to get some jewelry for family members, so we visited a couple different local stores. I ended up getting a necklace and some earrings.

Finally, the evening rolled around and we were off to our farewell dinner at La Taberna de Peñalver Cava Baja. The restaurant serves a wide variety of paellas consisting of beef, chicken, pork, seafood, vegetarian, and more, and all of them sounded delicious. Additionally, there was an open window into the kitchen, where you could see the paellas being made as we walked in, and this made me even more excited as we were scouring the menu. Eventually, my table ended up ordering a chicken and a pork paella. After much waiting, the paellas arrived. There was a beautiful aroma in the air from the smell of the paellas and they were delivered in the massive pans they were cooked in. Before my first bite, I could tell they would be amazing and after my first bite I knew they were amazing. For dessert, I got a mango sorbet with fresh mango and pineapple, and it was one of the most delicate and refreshing dishes I have ever tasted.

Lastly, it is never simple to leave. But Madrid gave so much to me. And as I closed my suitcase that night, I did not figure that I was ending a chapter, I believed I was starting a new one. One day I will come back, but in the meantime, I carry a small bit of Madrid with me, wedged between my mementos and stories.

March 13th, Day in the Life!

Bullfighting in Spain 

On Thursday March 13th, our class started out the day by waking up and all eating breakfast. Every morning a big group of us would all sit together. Our hotel was extremely nice, and they provided us with a buffet style breakfast every morning. We all ate fresh sliced fruit as well as some typical Spanish dishes like the tortilla for breakfast every morning. Then, we all met in the lobby to meet for our day. Today was the day we were going to tour Las Ventas, a bullfighting ring in Madrid.  

We were lucky enough to be lead through the museum and stadium by a very knowledgeable tour guide. She explained how old this tradition was, and how while it can be very violent, it is important to Spanish culture. The actual stadium was so much larger than I thought it would be, with at least 1000 seats. Looking at how large the field was, and being able to walk on it, I could see how easily and quickly one could get tired from running. Our tour guide explained to us the process of bullfighting, and how one bullfighter is placed in an arena with a bull. The actual competition works in three phases. The first part focuses on observing how the bull moves, and watching how it responds to the movement of the red cloak. In the part of the bullfight, the matador, or bullfighter, holds out the cloak, and has to quickly change directions and move it in order to mot be hit by the bull. The second part of the bullfight is to weaken the bull. The matador will plant to flags into the bull shoulders. Then finally, the third part of the fight ends with the bulls death. It is done quickly, and then the bull is dragged out. A few students were able to play a simulation game to show this process, acting as a bullfighter in a ring with virtual reality.

We were also able to walk through the museum connected to this building to see old costumes from famous decreased matadors.  

Free time and wandering Madrid 

After this adventure, we were given free time to do whatever we wished until the next planned activity at 8pm. We went to a Portuguese bakery called Manteigaria-Fabrica de Pasteles de Nata. This spot was very near our hotel, and we kept walking by it earlier in the week, so we finally took that opportunity to try it. This bakery’s specialty was Pastel de Nata, a Portuguese egg custard tart.  We all loved trying this dessert, and a few people in my group had already had it before. It was safe to say that the few of us that only bought one pastry went back for more after trying it. After trying that, we just wandered around the city by our hotel. We felt that we had done a lot of exploring to other neighborhoods on different days, like Malasaña and Centro,  so we wanted to make sure we got a good variety of sights.  I absolutely loved having the opportunity to tour Spain in this way, and being able to observe the buildings and architecture was truly a gift. Madrid is such a beautiful city.

Flamenco 

Then finally, after changing at the hotel, we met in the lobby. The weather was pretty nice this day so we were able to walk to the flamenco show, which was about a 15 minute walk away. We were seated at a long table inside a small restaurant. The waiters took our drink order, and I got a Lemon Fanta, which seemed to be s Spanish specific drink I hadn’t previously heard of. Then, the show began. It was so cool! There was a guitarist, 3 female dancers, and one man who was singing. The show was full of claps and stomps on beat, twirling and big sweeping motions of the dancers hands, and an incredible vocalist. The show was completely improvised, each person was making their move based on how the others acted. You could see that the guitarist was watching closely for certain signals that the dancers would make to know how fast to keep the tempo. It was incredible, and our group leader, Frans, said that we were lucky to have gotten to watch that show. It was the best guitarist he’d ever heard, and being a local Spaniard, he’s gotten to see a lot of these shows. I really enjoyed this experience, and it was so awesome to see the passion and whirlwind of colors as the dancers were onstage. The drama and the silence between beats really emphasized each movement.  

image at show

Free Time after Show 

After the show, we met to walk back to the hotel as a group. But considering how little time was left, my group of friends and I explored a little before returning. We had to walk through the Plaza Mayor on the way there, so on the way back we paused here for a bit to take in its beauty at night, as well as walk through the building. We got tacos from a restaurant nearby for dinner, which was delicious! Then, we made our way back to the hotel after an incredible day, rich with Spanish culture and history.  

Thursday, March 13th: Las Ventas and Flamenco

Las Ventas and Bullfighting in Spain

Our morning on this Thursday started similarly to days prior as we all met at the Hotel Regina’s breakfast buffet. Each morning there were numerous foods set out for guests to enjoy, far too many to count. Options ranged from fresh fruit to churros with chocolate sauce, and even multiple espresso machines available to use. The espresso came in especially handy on days like today where we ventured far to explore the roots behind Madrid. After breakfast, it was time to take the metro over to Las Ventas, the largest bullfighting ring in all of Spain.

Travelling to the ring was a breeze, as we only needed to travel six stops on the red line from Sevilla station, located next to the hotel. This led us to Ventas station, a hub that connected with the blue line as well. In fact, the blue line was constructed with Las Ventas directly in the center as a way to ensure patrons could find transportation to the ring. This fact was given to us by our amazing tour guide who met us at the gates of Las Ventas with a big smile and lots to share. The gates themselves were incredible to see as the ring’s Arabic influence made itself known through the large and geometrically intriguing brick walls and arches.

The Impressive Front Gates of Las Ventas Bullfighting Ring

As we continued inside the ring our tour guide ensured that we saw all there is to see! We traveled up the steep staircases to the highest seats in the arena, and walked through the center of the ring where the magic happens. While travelling between locations the guide shared her vast knowledge of the ring with us, detailing how the sport works, legends of the sport, Spanish cultural ties to bullfighting, the ways in which bulls are raised and acquired, the bullfighting season, and much more. Unfortunately, the time for bullfights had not yet started and we were unable to witness the action in person. We learned that the season of bullfighting runs from March 23rd to October 18th with a bullfight every Sunday, and during the month of May it’s an everyday occurrence where typically three fights will happen every 24 hours! We continued with the tour focusing more on the history of bullfighting, and ending in the Las Ventas museum, where original artifacts such as matador outfits, capes, swords, portraits, and even heads of deceased bulls could be found.

View from The Top of Las Ventas
Mural of Antonio Jimenez Painted Above an Entryway to The Ring
Stuffed Bull That Weighed 555 kg while Alive, A Smaller Than Average Size

Time To Feast

After departing from Las Ventas, a large group of us visited Cesar Las Ventas, a restaurant right across the street from the ring that was recommended to us by the tour guide. They offered large portions of Rabo de Toro (Oxtail), a delicacy which the majority of us were trying for the first time. The restaurant’s decor was impressive, with a heavy bullfighting influence and numerous plaques with the heads of famous bulls of the past. A program played on the TV screens showcasing many bullfighting fails and injuries through the years. Seeing these events recounted helped to put the cultural importance of the sport into perspective as we watched, awestruck, as the matadors put everything on the line. The arrival of our food brought us out of this trance, and everyone began to dig in!

A Legendary Bull from Miura Ranch, The Origin of The Lamborghini Miura’s Title

Flamenco

After digesting and recuperating at the hotel, the group set out around dinnertime heading to Las Carboneras, where we witnessed authentic Flamenco dancing first-hand. The show was invigorating from start to finish, and it was so hard to look away that only a few pictures were captured. Each artist had their own style and rhythm whenever they’d take the lead, and they somehow managed to combine their skills into the perfect show even without rehearsals or a plan to go on! In fact, they informed us at the end that nearly 90% of the show is improvised. Traditional Flamenco like this is a beautiful form of art, and being able to experience it in such an up-close and personal manner is a memory that I’ll never forget.

An Incredible Display of Talent at Las Carboneras Tablao Flamenco

End of The Night

After leaving the Flamenco show, everyone took a few moments to pick their jaws up off the floor as we enjoyed the vibe that the cobblestone streets and bustling nightlife of Madrid brought. A group of us smelled something tasty around the corner, where we found El Mercado de San Miguel. There we found a multitude of people enjoying food, drinks, and each other’s company. We added to the crowd, trying different items like empanadas, queso y pan, jamon Iberico, and more! This was a perfect end to the night as we reflected on a day that had opened our eyes further to the wonders that Madrid has to offer. The history, people, cuisine, and culture of Madrid can be compared to no others. The city welcomed us with open arms, and in doing the same, we shared experiences and made memories that I would not trade for anything. Our time in Madrid went by far too quickly, though each day left us fulfilled and uncovering new details about this magical place as well as ourselves. I encourage anyone and everyone to explore the world as far and wide as possible, and to cherish experiences like this one that can grant a completely different perspective on life as we know it. I feel as though a piece of Madrid has followed me home, and I’ll hold on to that for as long as I can.

The Final Stop of The Night, El Mercado de San Miguel

The Valley of the Fallen March 14, 2025

Our last day in Madrid was spent in the Valley of the Fallen, recently renamed Cuelgamuros Valley, in Sierra de Guadarrama. The Valley is one of the most controversial places in Madrid. It was constructed between 1940 and 1959 and commissioned by the Spanish dictator Francisco Franco, who was the leader of the Nationalist forces during the Spanish Civil War, which to this day remains a forbidden topic to teach and discuss to this day thanks to the Pact of Forgetting, which was established in 1977, three years after Francisco Franco’s death, as Spain was transitioning into a democracy.

The Civil War in Madrid, Spain, lasted 3 years, from 1936 to 1939; the war resulted in a win for the right-wing Nationalists, which, as stated, was led by Franco. Francisco Franco’s dictatorship lasted 40 years, which ended with his death. The Nationalists consisted of monarchists, conservatives, fascists, and the military; these individuals were supported by the Catholic Church, Adolf Hitler from Germany, Benito Mussolini of Italy, and Antonio de Olivero Salazar of Portugal. The nationalists received arms, soldiers, and funding to continue and prevail during the war. The nationalists strongly opposed the left-wing Republicans, who were composed of socialists, communists, anarchists, and liberals; these individuals were supported by the Soviet Union, Mexico, and international brigades such as those from the US, UK, and France, who provided weapons, arms, advisors, and funding.

The Valley of the Fallen was created as a memorial for those who perished during the Spanish Civil War. Now, many see it as a symbol of the Francoist victory, so it is expected to see Franco supporters visit and do the Nazi salute as an homage/tribute to Franco, which is one of the most significant controversies the Valley faces today. Since many Spaniards view the Valley of the Fallen as a memorial to Franco’s dictatorship rather than reconciliation, many wish for its closure. The Basilica was carved into the mountain, which is astonishing. Political prisoners built the site under forced labor. What makes the Valley of the Fallen such a unique place is that the cross is 150 meters, around five hundred feet tall, making it one of the tallest in the world. Moreover, the Valley of the Fallen is home to the Underground Earth Tide Laboratory, a geophysical research facility, making it one of the deepest underground laboratories in the world, with a depth of 250 meters, around 820 feet below ground. The lab is used to study the earth’s crust deformations caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun. Afterward, the data collected is used for earthquake research, underground fluid movements, and even to predict geological changes. The lab was established during the 1950s while the monument was constructed.

Additionally, within the walls of the Valley, the bodies that are buried are of the soldiers who perished during the Civil War without the consent of their families. To make matters worse, these individuals’ bones are scattered and mixed, so no one knows which part belongs to whom or what side. There are 33,800 individuals buried within the walls of the Basilica; many believe this to be false, and the number is expected to be much higher. Furthermore, Franco was buried in the Valley, but in 2019, his remains were exhumed and reburied in his family cemetery, as what is in store for the Valley of the Fallen is expected to become a historical monument focusing on the victims rather than Franco’s followers.

The Valley of the Fallen is breathtaking, with fantastic scenery that brings peace to anyone who dares visit. The history and building of the monument are staggering. Stumping, everyone wondered how a place so lovely could have been constructed in such terrible circumstances. Considering that the monument was built inside the mountains, there were no excavations. It is 820 feet deep and has a cross that is five hundred feet tall. It is a mind-blowing experience that everyone must experience at least once in their lives. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures inside the church.

We hosted our farewell dinner in a restaurant called La Taberna de Peñalver Cava Baja, which makes the best paellas and seafood rice in Madrid, with a 4.8 out of 5 rating from its customers. The servers were excellent, with amazing appetizers, a spectacular variety of seafood, rice, and paellas, and home to the best dessert I have ever tasted. Overall, it was a fantastic experience that will be with me for the rest of my life; the ambiance, the people, the culture, and the food are unforgettable.  

Adiós, Madrid. ¡Hasta luego!

Bullfights and Flamenco: A Day in Spain

By Evan Kery

The Bull Fights

            Bullfighting in Spain has a rich history, tracing its origins back to 711 CE when the first official bullfight took place in honor of King Alfonso VIII’s coronation. Since then, it has been celebrated throughout Spain fervently. Bullfighting is a sporting event where a sole bullfighter (or matador) is placed in an arena against a repeatedly agitated bull and given a red cloak (or muleta) to dodge the bull’s raging attacks while onlookers cheer.

            While unfortunate enough to not be visiting during one of these sporting events during our trip to Spain, our group was still given the chance to tour the famous bullfighting arena in Madrid, Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, otherwise known simply as Las Ventas. Before the trip to Las Ventas, on previous days, the group had visited Spain’s Reina Sofia Museum, gone out for Tapas several times, visited Toledo, and much more. Suffice it to say, it would be difficult to add to this already exciting experience. However, a tour of Las Ventas and Flamenco dancing were the perfect contributors.

            Aside from the arena’s massive size being more fit for the title of “Colosseum de Toros de Las Ventas,” the overall structure was immersive. Sitting down in the stands felt like a trip back in time. It quickly became easy to imagine what seeing a bull fight long ago might have been like, with the King and Queen watching from their royal balcony while the onlookers raged and cheered at the event. Nowadays, while this arena still hosts bullfights, they are far less frequent. Instead, Las Ventas is home to many other events, such as tennis tournaments, car shows, fashion debuts, festivals, and concerts.

            While on the tour of the facilities in and around Las Ventas, I was given the chance to try on the bullfighting virtual reality simulator goggles, where I was put up against a bull in a virtual setting and had to dodge the bull’s attacks. While this was fun, it was not hard to imagine just how adrenalizing this situation might be should an actual bull come raging against me. Several other students were also given the chance to try out this simulation and our points were totaled with me in scoring an unfortunate last place.

Restauraunt

            After the tour of Las Ventas, my group decided to set out for some food at an Italian restaurant. We had one objective in mind: Ox Tail. While the restaurant was very dishonest, the food was fairly good. Ox tail has an exceptionally soft texture to it, making it one of the easiest cuts of beef to dine on. When we got back to the hotel, we had several hours to rest before the night’s very special event: The Flamenco Dance.

Flamenco

          The venue was not a large place; rather, it was a small but comfortable room with a stage in the middle. At every table sat a candle with a cupholder next to a stack of napkins; not much else would be needed to enjoy this show. While we sat and waited for the event to start, each of us put in an order for drinks. While I drank my Coke and talked with my friends, the lights dimmed, and the show started.

            The first dancer approached the stage. She started off slow and small, but as the music grew louder and the song more complete, so too did her dance. Her steady and precise movements were hypnotizing; without ever missing a beat, she danced in perfect sync with a song nobody had ever heard before or will ever hear completely again. By the end of this whirlwind, the second dancer was ready. As we clapped, she began her performance. Characterized by a frenzy of spins and syncopated movements, this dancer felt freer than the last. The next dancer was equally as surprising; while similar to the previous two she had her own style clearly influenced by her passion for the art. Her dancing felt as if it were made for this song and this song only. As she bowed, the last male dancer took to the stage. His dance was characterized by more slow and steady movements with the song, feeling like a tidal wave in low gravity as it came down upon you.

            At the end of the show, we clapped and chatted for a little bit before retreating outside to discuss our thoughts. Unanimously, the group loved the performance, and had felt that it was an experience one could only get here in Spain. Since this was close to the end of our trip, it felt like this was the perfect way to begin wrapping things up!

I cannot wait to go back to Spain!

Photos From The Day!

March 12th: Colecciones Reales and the Oldest Restaurant in the World

On Wednesday, March 12th, our class started off the day with a lecture about the Spanish Civil War. We learned about the siege of Madrid, as well as the bombings that plagued the city. After finishing up our lecture, we had a few hours of free time. During this time, Tenderness and I decided to check out the Prado Museum. Fortunately, we were able to gain free entry by showing our student cards and IDs.

Our free tickets!

We started our visit at the El Greco section of the exhibit, which displayed a lot of his earlier, brighter colored religious paintings. For his later works, he made more use of contrast between lighter and darker colors, often leaning toward darker and less saturated paints. As we made our way through the Prado Museum, we eventually found ourselves at the Black Paintings exhibit. These 14 paintings by Francisco Goya have their own room, with the lights dimmed. Each painting is haunting, showcasing his fear of death and insanity. Due to the theme of the paintings, as well as the fact that many of them were scraped off of his wall, details and color saturation were lost. This added a lot to the eerie feeling I got from the paintings. Unfortunately, taking photos was against the rules of the museum, so I was not able to capture any of the paintings or sculptures that I liked. We spent a little more than an hour at the museum, and then headed off to grab some lunch.

In the evening, we met up with half of our group for a visit to the Colecciones Reales, which is connected to the Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almudena. The first part of the tour brought us through the old Moorish wall of Madrid, built in the 9th century, which I thought was very impressive. The fact that it was buried under the cathedral until recently is interesting; uncovering such an old piece of history while building a museum is quite the coincidence. The museum had a collection of books dating from the 1400s to the 1800s, which were all impressively well-preserved. I also learned about the history of the Habsburgs from the House of Austria. Interestingly enough, while looking at each of the paintings, I could tell immediately which ones were Habsburgs. The ever-present and protruding chin from the Habsburg bloodline is a surefire way to identify them. It is unsurprising that inbreeding and poor health led to their downfall. I am also a big fan of models and antiques, so being able to look at old tools and decorations was fascinating. The painted Japanese vases featured beautiful brushwork, using a rich gold pigment. Other than the Moorish wall, the item I found the most impressive in this collection is the book of Russian army uniform photographs from 1857, which is bound in malachite. The stunning green stone being used as a book cover is not something I thought it would ever be used for.

The Moorish Wall of Madrid was just sitting there right underneath everyone’s feet for such a long time… It’s incredible how much of it is still there.
There’s the Habsburg chin.
Stunning craftsmanship, and beautiful pigment colors.
This might be one of the hardest hard-cover books ever. I don’t know if I want to think about how heavy this is.
The view from the Cathedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almudena.

After taking some time to admire the view of the city from the overhang next to the cathedral, Tenderness, Jasmine, Joanna and I headed off to the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world, in order to try suckling pig cooked in a 300 year old oven. This restaurant, Botín, the restaurant in question, appears somewhat normal from the outside. However, upon entering, it was immediately obvious how old the interior is. Our table was on the upper floor, and to be honest, climbing those old wooden stairs was a little scary. After being sat, the four of us read through the menu. Surprisingly, bread was €2 per person, and not €2 for the table! Of course, we still ordered bread anyway. A few minutes after we received our bread, a Tuna group walked into Botín and began to play music! Apparently, Tuna groups are comprised of university students who play traditional instruments. They did a very good job! We were finally able to order our suckling pig, and I was impressed by how tender the pork was despite the skin being so hard and crispy. It was a struggle to cut into the skin, but the actual meat would just fall apart. While the meat was very tasty, I thought the skin is what really made the dish. It was crispy and full of flavor, which reminded me a bit of peking duck. Was it worth €32? I’m not sure. I like to think that I was paying for the experience and the bragging rights.

This day was full of exploring new places and things, which is the essence of going to a country you’ve never visited before. It is extremely important to try new things when traveling, even if you don’t think you will enjoy it. I have found myself pleasantly surprised more than once in this regard; apparently, I like cantaloupe in Spain, even though I don’t like it in the United States! I also learned that I hate anchovies (sorry). Spain has left such a mark on my life that I want to return even more so every time I come back home. Spain is a place where old things mesh with new things in every corner, as the people move and grow with each passing day. I have come to deeply cherish the Spanish lifestyle, and I hope to travel even further in my next trip.

Day 4: Exploring Madrid – El Retiro, Grabbing Some Grub, and a Madrid Walking Tour

Tuesday morning was already our fourth day in Madrid, and it felt like the trip was flying by already. I was up and at em’ bright and early, and headed downstairs to grab some breakfast before the day started with a lecture at 9:45. We met up in the lobby and walked a few minutes over together to the meeting place at Spaces – Las Cortes, a shared office workspace right by El Palacio de Las Cortes. This was the first of two lectures that would take place both Tuesday and Wednesday. Both lectures focused on the history of Madrid, with this one focusing on Spain’s history further in the past, discussing the Reconquista of Spain by the Spanish Christian Kingdoms from the Muslim Moorish Kingdoms. We learned how Madrid became Spain’s capital city, taking the title from Toledo, where we’d visited just the day before, through a decree by King Philip III, after his father had moved the royal court from Toledo to Spain a generation prior.

After the lecture a few others and I had to go grab our metro cards. These cards, so generously covered by API, were different than the regular multicards usually obtained from the machines on the Metro, and offered unlimited subway rides for the whole month, even if we were only there for a week. Not knowing that these cards would be provided, had bought a 10-ride pass the night we arrived, but the 7 remaining rides I had on that one came in handy when classmates inevitably lost their own cards. There was a photo portion for the card, which took me by surprise. You may be able to see that much in my expression in the photo (you’re welcome to see that below). But, now all of us were set up to ride the metro for the rest of the week!

Next we went scavenger hunting. A group of us set out to cross some items off of our scavenger hunt list, and my brand shiny new metro card was put to use. We headed out from Estacion Sevilla on the 2 line (though I preferred to call it the red line) before switching to the 5 (the green line) headed towards our destination, El Mercado de la Paz. I don’t know if we hit the lunch rush or what, but the place was remarkably busy for a Tuesday. A couple members of our group got some empanadas from a booth, and we looked for some Manchego from a stand, but to no avail. We decided to try and make it over to Parque el Retiro before we had to reconvene with the whole class later that day. Though cloudy, the park was still beautiful. The ornate fountains and stunning architecture and landscaping were really fascinating to see.

The time was now to meet up with the whole class for Professor Z’s heralded walking tour of Madrid. Starting from El Puerta del Sol, we made our way from Kilometre Zero, the very geographical center of Spain, up towards Gran Via, learning fun facts about the iconic Tio Pepe sign and Madrid’s experience with the world’s oldest profession. Some lessons in history were present as well. As we made our way through Gran Via, Professor Z pointed out bullet holes in the buildings from the Nationalist’s siege of Madrid during the Civil War. Parts of the tour would give us a visual aid for the lecture we went on to have on Wednesday morning. As the sun sank lower in the sky, we walked through Malasaña, a really beautiful neighborhood filled with thrift stores, coffee shops, and bars. Definitely my kinda place. We made our way towards El Plaza de España and saw the monument to Miguel de Cervantes and Don Quijote de la Mancha. Though I never read the book in high school like some others, I’ve actually picked it up since getting home after being inspired by this trip (though admittedly I’m pretty wrapped up reading Game of Thrones currently so its slow progress). From La Plaza de España we made our way just a few blocks northeast towards el Parque de la Montaña, to see one of the very few memorials dedicated to the Spanish Civil War. The monument contains no plaque and paints no narrative one direction or the other. We ended the tour at the Templo of Debod, which I learned is only one of several Egyptian temples outside of Egypt. Funnily enough, on the plane ride home I watched Ocean’s 8, which features a scene with one of the other temples located in New York’s very own Metropolitan Museum of Art, which is something I would not have taken note of before. Our group disbanded while the sunset overlooking the Royal Palace and el Casa de Campo faded to blue. The walking tour was actually one of my favorite activities from the trip. Nothing is better, in my opinion, than physically being someplace while you are learning about it. You get to see and learn so many minute details that you would have no other way of knowing about, and it gives you a whole different perspective on the history. I hope to revisit Madrid in the near future and I hope to explore every neighborhood in as much detail as we did Malasaña. Who knows, maybe the last two rides remaining on my metro card will even still be valid!

Editor’s Note: I invite you to view the blog posts by Cam and Michael, who both also wrote about this day, to see some better pictures of where we went. I didn’t take many documentarian photographs, however, you are welcome to view some videos I took (see above) to see some snippets from this day of the trip.

Day 3: Toledo, Tapas, and More!

This day was our third day of the trip, Monday, March 10th. After getting somewhat accustomed to what our next week was going to feel like in the beautiful city of Madrid, we hopped on a bus at around 9:30 in the morning and took about an hour ride to Toledo, a place that seemed like it was taken straight out of a storybook. On the drive in, it was very interesting to see the change of scenery from the big city of Madrid to a more rural area of Spain. The first time we stepped out of the bus, we were on this road just outside Toledo, giving us an excellent view. The architecture was astonishing and the view looked like something that you see in movies. The weather on this day was very kind to us, and the partly cloudy skies allowed us to experience all that Toledo had to offer.

The View From The Ride In

Stop 1: The Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes

After arriving at Toledo and meeting up with our amazing tour guide for the day, our first stop was the Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes. Every inch of this intricate piece of architecture is covered with details. From the outside, stone carvings, symbols, and statues adorn the entrance of the Monastery. One of the most interesting features to me was the heads of many of the statues because they were a different color than the rest of the body. Our tour guide told us that this was because when Napoleon and his troops controlled Toledo in the early 1800s, they destroyed the statues. Once they left Toledo, the statues were restored, however, a different material was used, causing the color difference.

Outside the Monastery

The inside of the Monastery was even more striking than the outside. The walls are littered from floor to ceiling with different carvings and inscriptions. One of my favorite parts from inside was the artwork that stood behind the altar in the main chapel. There is also a small garden that sits in the center of the Monastery, adding to the peaceful ambiance of the building.

The Painting in the Chapel
The Garden

The City of Toledo and Stop 2: The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo

After leaving the Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes, we took about a fifteen-minute walk throughout the city towards our next destination. As we walked the narrow streets of Toledo, our tour guide made sure to point out a lot of different restaurants and shops that we could check out later in the day. The main thing that she told us about was a pastry called marzipan. Marzipan is made from ground almonds and sugar and is one of Toledo’s most famous pastries. The dessert is traditionally made into a crescent shape, but there are lots of other different forms of marzipan too. We got the chance to try some marizpan, and I really enjoyed the sweetness of the pastry.

Next, we arrived at our second stop of the guided tour which was the Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo. This structure was the most astonishing work of architecture that I have ever seen. The towers of the Cathedral stood so tall that you could see them overtop of all of the other buildings in the area as we were walking in. The structure was so massive that I found myself in awe, finding new details everywhere that I looked. My favorite detail from the outside, though it was hard to choose one, was the depiction of the Last Supper near the top of the Cathedral.

The inside of the Cathedral was even more impressive than the outside. As we roamed through the main chapel, the massive golden altarpiece was the first thing that caught my eye, glowing under the light that poured through the colorful stained-glass windows. The walls were covered in detailed carvings and paintings, and even when I thought that I couldn’t be impressed even more, I was proven wrong. Even the ceiling was covered in so many beautiful carvings and works of art that it made me want to keep looking up to take it all in. Our tour guide explained to us how natural light was extremely important at the time that the Cathedral was built. With the lack of electrical lighting, the positioning of many windows, such as the large stained-glass windows surrounding the main chapel, and other places that allowed light to enter the Cathedral were very important. To conclude our tour of the Cathedral of Saint Mary, we took a walk through the Sacristy of the Cathedral, an art gallery showcasing many works of art by different artists. The ceiling was painted by Luca Giordano, and it was by far the best part of the room due to its large scale and intricate details.

The Golden Alterpiece
One of the Windows Letting Natural Light in
The Ceiling of the Sacristy

Back in Madrid to End The Day

After having a couple of hours of free time to explore the city of Toledo a bit more, we made our way back to Madrid to finish the day off. A couple of the guys and I wound up at a restaurant called Vinitus that was only about a ten-minute walk from the hotel that we were staying at. We got a variety of tapas that we shared between the four of us, and my favorite was the jamón.

This day in Toledo was one of the best experiences that I had during my time in Spain. From exploring the stunning cathedrals to wandering through the old stone streets, every part of the city had a story to tell. The mix of cultures, the stunning architecture, and the incredible views made it one of my favorite places that we went to throughout the whole trip. The culture and history was so rich in Toledo that a day almost didn’t feel like enough time to explore everything that it had to offer, but through our guided tour and the free time that we had after, I feel as if the time in Toledo enriched my experience abroad and is a day that I will never forget.