Long before arriving in San Sebasti\u00e1n, I found myself anticipating one thing above all else: the pintxos! As Marti Buckley explains, a pintxo is a small dish\u2014something you can eat in just two or three bites\u2014traditionally enjoyed while standing at the bar with a drink in hand. They\u2019re an expression of Basque culture, meant to be shared, savored, and enjoyed in good company. Unlike tapas in other parts of Spain, pintxos are usually ordered individually, and each bar takes pride in its own specialties. San Sebasti\u00e1n has earned its reputation as a culinary capital largely because of these little bites and the vibrant social ritual that surrounds them. The tradition is to hop from bar to bar, sampling a drink and a pintxo or two at each stop. It\u2019s less about filling up on food and more about connecting\u2014with friends, family, and the buzzing energy of the city itself. Unlike in the U.S., it\u2019s completely normal to see children in bars here\u2014it feels more like an extension of daily life than something frowned upon. I had been looking forward to experiencing pintxos, and I have to say, everything I\u2019ve tasted so far has exceeded my expectations. Our group went on a pintxo tour led by Professor Z in Old Town, and the first thing that struck me was the architecture\u2014it felt like stepping back in time. First Stop: Bar Borda BerriBar, Borda Berri is known for its take on creative Basque pintxos, with a focus on seasonal, high-quality cuisine. Walking in was overwhelming at first: the bar was crowded, buzzing with energy, and we had to squeeze our way into a little corner. But almost immediately, I felt that rush of immersion\u2014like I was part of something real. What fascinated me most was how orders were handled. Instead of electronic systems or even writing things down, the staff simply yell orders to the kitchen, and when they\u2019re ready, they shout them back out to the customers. Honestly, I don\u2019t know how they keep it all straight\u2014it just sounds like a lot of yelling to me\u2014but somehow, it works, and has worked since 2001. Unlike many pintxo bars where cold dishes line the counter, Borda Berri serves everything made-to-order from its chalkboard menu. The presentation was stunning, with colorful plates that looked like edible works of art. Highlights included:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
By the end of this stop, my tastebuds felt alive with adventure. As we walked toward our next stop, we were met with a surprise: a Basque band parading through the streets. The music, the drums, the laughter\u2014I couldn\u2019t stop smiling. It felt like the whole city was pulling us into the celebration. We had arrived during\u00a0Semana Grande (Big Week),\u00a0a festival full of fireworks, music, tourists, and endless energy. Next stop: Bar Txepetxa.\u00a0We reached Bar Txepetxa just before its siesta closing. This bar is legendary for its anchovies. If anchovies aren\u2019t your thing, it might seem intimidating\u2014but if you\u2019re open to adventure, this is the place to be. For years, the family never wrote down their secret marinade recipe\u2014the mother and son were the only ones who knew it by heart. After narrowly avoiding a car accident, they realized how easily it could be lost. From then on, they wrote it down, and to this day, they still prepare it fresh each morning. The toppings were surprising\u2014one of my favorites was anchovies with blueberries. I never would\u2019ve paired the two, but it worked beautifully. Growing up Khmer, I\u2019ve always appreciated bold flavors, and in that moment, I felt grateful that my palate was open enough to embrace something so unexpected. Our next stop was Casa Gandarias, where we tried octopus and sea urchin. For many of us, it was our first time trying sea urchin\u2014and it definitely won\u2019t be my last. I expected it to be slimy (I was bracing myself), but instead, it was creamy and paired perfectly with a hollandaise-like sauce. Another fear conquered! Of course, no food tour in San Sebasti\u00e1n would be complete without trying the famous Basque cheesecake. We ended the day at Bar La Vi\u00f1a, the birthplace of this dessert. Creamy, rich, and slightly caramelized\u2014it was the perfect finale.\u00a0Even coming from a culture with such a diverse range of flavors, I can honestly say my palate has expanded tremendously here. I\u2019ve tasted some of the best food of my life, not just because of the ingredients or the techniques, but because of the pride the Basque people take in their craft. Here, food isn\u2019t just about eating\u2014it\u2019s about sharing joy, culture, and community.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
p.s. pro tip: the messier the bar floor, the better the food. If you know, you know!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Long before arriving in San Sebasti\u00e1n, I found myself anticipating one thing above all else: the pintxos! As Marti Buckley explains, a pintxo is a small dish\u2014something you can eat in just two or three bites\u2014traditionally enjoyed while standing at … Continue reading