Hello or as the Basque say, “Kaixo“(pronounced kai-sho) from San Sebastián, Spain.

I’ve been here for 20 days, and as I’m writing this, I have a little less than half a day left. It feels like a lifetime has passed with all that I’ve done and discovered: bike riding along the beach, learning the bus routes, and exploring the city all while chasing the best pintxobar.I’ve enjoyed the community bond, the hospitality that San Sebastián has shown me, and so much tarta de queso (cheesecake). I don’t know if I’ll be able to just pack up and leave without leaving a bit of myself behind. 

Being a seasoned traveler, I must say that it begins to take a toll on the soul leaving pieces of yourself in every place you visit.With every trip, you learn new customs and traditions and in this case, I learned a new language as well. In my research, I found out that San Sebastián is in the country of Spain and is part of the politically autonomous region of Gipuzkoa. Gipuzkoa is one of seven provinces that make up Euskal Herria (Basque Country). Four of these provinces are in Spain, and the other three are in France. Though only recognized by the Spanish government, the Basque Country has a co-official language that still thrives among its people.Euskera, spoken by a little over one million people, is estimated to be between 2,000–3,000 years old and has no roots tying it to any other known language making it an isolate language. The world of languages has always fascinated me, and this trip has definitely fed that obsession. Our talks with the professor about the Spanish Civil War and Franco’s dictatorship only made me question even more about this language.

A couple of days ago, I was privileged enough to go on an adventure to meet four volunteers who translate biblical literature. They dedicate themselves to staying up to date with translating publications into the Euskera language. In order to get to the translation office, I took Bus 13 from the Boulevard, sat back, and watched the scenery, get higher and higher. It got to a point where I was hanging onto the small handrest to avoid sliding off my seat while the bus took the curbs. And finally, Google Maps told me I had arrived. I pressed the call button, and the bus stopped. I was in what felt like the furthest point outside of San Sebastián. When I arrived, my contact told me I had to get to the street above to take an elevator. I followed the instructions and ended up in front of a random elevator. I didn’t know what to expect, but a random elevator that would lead me to a parallel street was definitely not it. When I arrived at the office, I was greeted in a very Basque way: a big hug and a kiss on both cheeks.

During our conversation, I asked, “If Euskera is a co-official language, and most everyone speaks Spanish, is it still necessary to translate these publications?”

I was given a very firm and heartfelt “yes.”

“It is the language of the Basque people’s heart. Yes, they understand and speak Spanish. However, when they hear a song or read a religious publication in the language spoken in the home where they grew up a language that comes from their parents, their grandparents it does something to them. It reaches their heart.”

Keeping that in mind, I was extremely excited for my first-ever Basque class. We met with Professor Stuart Kelling, and he gave us a lesson on what can only be described as the tip of the iceberg of this ancient language. Professor Kelling explained to us how the CIA’s research states it can take someone six months to learn and master Spanish however, it can take up to three years to master Euskera.Protecting ourselves from the wind behind “Construcción Vacía“ (“Empty Construction”) a sculpture found on the furthest tip of Concha Bay we listened. The wind was strong, the waves crashed on the rocky shore, and yet all I could hear was the pronunciation of a language that has survived so many hardships with its people.

In our compact lesson, we learned how to say a thousand thanks: “Mila esker.”

How to introduce ourselves: “Ni Carina naiz” (I’m Carina),
And how to ask someone their name: “Nola izena duzu?”

Our first-ever lesson wrapped up with practicing a dialogue to order at a bar. As Felix and I practiced ordering small beers (“zuritoa“), I was well aware of the fact that I was living in the moment. Experiences like these come around very rarely.

Mila esker, Donostia, for sharing your people and your streets with me. I hope to be back soon!

After nearly 24 hours of traveling, we all made it safely to San Sebastián. For many of us, this is our first solo trip without our families, an exciting and slightly nerve-wracking adventure. The weather here is truly spectacular. In the mornings, it’s nice and cool, perfect for a walk or run(if you’re the sport kind shoutout Matt who ran yesterday). Throughout the day, it becomes very hot, the kind of warmth that just makes you want to jump into the cold waters at the beach or escape to your hotel room. At la tarde, there’s an amazing breeze that sweeps through the city, and the weather here is truly spectacular.

Our first day was filled with new experiences, or at least mine. After settling into our hotel, we ventured out to find something to eat for dinner. Some of us settled on a Kebab place that was absolutely delicious, a spot I will definitely be visiting again. With our dinners in hand, we walked to the beach, eating as we watched the sunset, stunned to speak and our mouths filled with food. The view was so breathtaking that we couldn’t resist going frolicking in the sand and touching the water. Despite getting sandy feet and wet socks on our way back, it was completely worth it (shoutout Tobe for wearing air forces just like me).

Today was our first day of classes. Most of the class biked to school, but I chose to walk and watch the sunrise (because I don’t know how to). It was so nice to romanticize my life, to see all these TikToks of girls living out their 20s in new, beautiful cities and to be able to do the same thing myself. It was an amazing feeling of freedom and possibility and I truly can’t wait to see what I will do next. To be honest, I could barely sleep the night before because I was sick, but mostly, I was filled with excitement. 

I woke up and took my time getting ready. Having a slow morning where I could simply take my time doing things was amazing. After getting ready, I set off for my first full day in San Sebastián. The 45-minute walk was not bad at all, especially since I stopped multiple times to take pictures and watch the sunrise. I took so many photos along the way because the beach was honestly so mesmerizing.. The morning was so peaceful and quiet.

Since class today started at 8 a.m., I had plenty of time to go grab a fresh donut from a local bakery before heading in. Most shops open around 7:30 a.m, so I sat patiently outside the shop, waiting for the baker to open the doors. Once she did, I went in, only to find the street cleaners had beaten me to it. It’s so nice to see how eco-friendly San Sebastián is. They have different trash and recycling bins for each item, and it’s wonderful to see people dedicated to bleaching and cleaning the sidewalks and streets every morning.

Sitting on a bench nearby, listening to calm music and eating my freshly baked donut, I continued to romanticize my life. From asking the baker if she spoke English and only being able to point at what I wanted, to learning how to ask for the “sugar bread” at the next bakery, I could see the growth in just a few hours. The food here is so fresh and yummy, and I am actually addicted to this sugar-filled bread/donut thing. I bought a whole bag of them (and I am eating one as I speak).

 Lacunza, our Spanish school, is so nice. My class is small, with only two students from UML and three foreign students from different countries. It was so cool meeting people from all parts of the world and all walks of life who came to San Sebastián to learn Spanish. 

After school, we all ran some errands together. We got essentials like travel adapters and exchanged cash. We then had a walking tour of the city with Professor Julian. I feel like that’s when it truly clicked for me that I’m really on this trip by myself, in a whole new country, and I can do whatever I want. After the tour, I stopped by the old city, walked around, grabbed some food, and then took the bus back to our hotel, which 

made me feel like a local.

Today was amazing, our first full day in San Sebastián, and I got to apply a few words I learned from class in my interactions with store owners. It’s only day two, and I can’t wait to see what these next few weeks have in store for me. This city is already exceeding my expectations, and the experience has been so much fun. Well, that’s all I have for now. Hasta luego 👋🏾