Long before arriving in San Sebastián, I found myself anticipating one thing above all else: the pintxos! As Marti Buckley explains, a pintxo is a small dish—something you can eat in just two or three bites—traditionally enjoyed while standing at the bar with a drink in hand. They’re an expression of Basque culture, meant to be shared, savored, and enjoyed in good company. Unlike tapas in other parts of Spain, pintxos are usually ordered individually, and each bar takes pride in its own specialties. San Sebastián has earned its reputation as a culinary capital largely because of these little bites and the vibrant social ritual that surrounds them. The tradition is to hop from bar to bar, sampling a drink and a pintxo or two at each stop. It’s less about filling up on food and more about connecting—with friends, family, and the buzzing energy of the city itself. Unlike in the U.S., it’s completely normal to see children in bars here—it feels more like an extension of daily life than something frowned upon. I had been looking forward to experiencing pintxos, and I have to say, everything I’ve tasted so far has exceeded my expectations. Our group went on a pintxo tour led by Professor Z in Old Town, and the first thing that struck me was the architecture—it felt like stepping back in time. First Stop: Bar Borda BerriBar, Borda Berri is known for its take on creative Basque pintxos, with a focus on seasonal, high-quality cuisine. Walking in was overwhelming at first: the bar was crowded, buzzing with energy, and we had to squeeze our way into a little corner. But almost immediately, I felt that rush of immersion—like I was part of something real. What fascinated me most was how orders were handled. Instead of electronic systems or even writing things down, the staff simply yell orders to the kitchen, and when they’re ready, they shout them back out to the customers. Honestly, I don’t know how they keep it all straight—it just sounds like a lot of yelling to me—but somehow, it works, and has worked since 2001. Unlike many pintxo bars where cold dishes line the counter, Borda Berri serves everything made-to-order from its chalkboard menu. The presentation was stunning, with colorful plates that looked like edible works of art. Highlights included:

• Salmorejo: A chilled, creamy orange soup that was vibrant, refreshing, and perfect for summer. I didn’t expect to like it as much as I did, but I would’ve happily had a second bowl.
• Veal cheek: Hands down, the most tender beef I’ve ever had—possibly the best meat of my life—served with a sauce I’ll be dreaming about. I almost dropped my fork in disbelief at how soft it was.
• Three-cheese risotto: Straight from Marti’s book, rich and smoky, easily the best risotto I’ve ever tasted.
• Bacalao (cod) cooked in its own gelatin with parsley sauce—an unusual slimy-yet-fresh texture that somehow worked. I never thought I’d put “slimy” and “delicious” in the same sentence, but here we are.
• Pig’s ear: My first time trying it—surprisingly tender, flavorful, and balanced with apple sauce. Not going to lie, I hesitated before the first bite, but I was glad I pushed myself.

By the end of this stop, my tastebuds felt alive with adventure. As we walked toward our next stop, we were met with a surprise: a Basque band parading through the streets. The music, the drums, the laughter—I couldn’t stop smiling. It felt like the whole city was pulling us into the celebration. We had arrived during Semana Grande (Big Week), a festival full of fireworks, music, tourists, and endless energy. Next stop: Bar Txepetxa. We reached Bar Txepetxa just before its siesta closing. This bar is legendary for its anchovies. If anchovies aren’t your thing, it might seem intimidating—but if you’re open to adventure, this is the place to be. For years, the family never wrote down their secret marinade recipe—the mother and son were the only ones who knew it by heart. After narrowly avoiding a car accident, they realized how easily it could be lost. From then on, they wrote it down, and to this day, they still prepare it fresh each morning. The toppings were surprising—one of my favorites was anchovies with blueberries. I never would’ve paired the two, but it worked beautifully. Growing up Khmer, I’ve always appreciated bold flavors, and in that moment, I felt grateful that my palate was open enough to embrace something so unexpected. Our next stop was Casa Gandarias, where we tried octopus and sea urchin. For many of us, it was our first time trying sea urchin—and it definitely won’t be my last. I expected it to be slimy (I was bracing myself), but instead, it was creamy and paired perfectly with a hollandaise-like sauce. Another fear conquered! Of course, no food tour in San Sebastián would be complete without trying the famous Basque cheesecake. We ended the day at Bar La Viña, the birthplace of this dessert. Creamy, rich, and slightly caramelized—it was the perfect finale. Even coming from a culture with such a diverse range of flavors, I can honestly say my palate has expanded tremendously here. I’ve tasted some of the best food of my life, not just because of the ingredients or the techniques, but because of the pride the Basque people take in their craft. Here, food isn’t just about eating—it’s about sharing joy, culture, and community.

p.s. pro tip: the messier the bar floor, the better the food. If you know, you know!