San Sebastian So Far

San Sebastian has been incredible. I have remained curious and leaned into Basque Country culture to make the most of my time here. So far, session 3 has built a strong sense of community, and I have been fortunate to make new friends. We’ve been exploring the city, trying popular pintxos, and truly enjoying ourselves.

I continue to be fascinated by the concept of time in San Sebastian. Time in Spain seems to be more flexible and social. Napping is part of the culture here, which adds a late social aspect to daily life. I’ve noticed locals move through their day by using time as a guide for daily routines, instead of a stressor like in America.

Personally, I experienced the most culture shock while studying Spanish at Lacunza. As a native Spanish speaker, I’ve struggled to produce Spanish in academic settings. Native speakers tend to receive the language and rarely have to actively contribute or produce the language. I have struggled with writing and speaking conventions for essays, and debates in class, but being uncomfortable pushes you to improve. I’m looking forward to relying on this experience as a guide to improve my Spanish production.

History of Txakoli

Txakoli wine is unique to the Basque Country. It’s been a tradition for the Talai family for five generations. The wine-making process has a quick turnaround. Pruning happens from December to February. In March, leaves start to sprout, and by May, there is floral growth. June sees tiny grapes forming on the vines. Throughout the summer, they ripen, and by September, they’re processed and finished.

Grapes are pressed using a pneumatic machine. The last 5% is discarded because of its poor quality, but used for stronger alcohol. After three weeks, the wine is ready to ferment. The lids are kept on to trap carbonation, keeping the wine bubbly. This is the key feature of Txakoli. It is slightly bubbly with carbonation. To bottle it, the wine is kept at a temperature three to four degrees below zero. After the wine is bottled, it needs to dry before stickers are applied.  

The winery in Getaria emphasizes tradition and heritage. The stickers on their wines reflect pride in quality and origin, allowing them to sell across Europe, Japan, and the US. 

Winery Experience

Our visit to the Winery on a Monday was perfect. The weather cooled down from the previous week, which allowed me to fully absorb the visit. It also felt nice to be together, as a a session dressed up for the occasion, and taking group photos. I particularly enjoyed seeing everyone together as a session since, at this point, our session has eased apart a bit. 

The speaker’s passion was very engaging and inspiring. Her enthusiasm and ability to connect us made the experience memorable. I admire her dedication to community and organization. The layout and architecture of the winery, especially the balcony, helped foster a social atmosphere for us to enjoy the wine.

I have noticed the passion people in Spain carry. This is refreshing to see. In America, burnout stories are common, but seeing how people in Spain maintain their passion is inspiring. This has provided me solid reflection on staying grounded and slowing down when I go back to America. I am honored to be part of such a welcoming culture.

Although a part of me feels as though my thoughts and feelings about this phenomenal trip could be summed up in a heartfelt and enthusiastic “Eskerrik asko” (the Basque phrase for “thank you very much”), I suppose that there is actually a great deal of places, pintxos and experiences that deserve to be recognized before our final signing off. While even just the highlights of the trip can’t be shoved down nicely into one neatly packed blog post (much like the contents of our suitcases by the end of our stay), I believe that I can get my message across by focusing on three main aspects of our time: the sites, the food, and the languages.

I can honestly say that my mind was first blown on our second full day in San Sebastian, when the professor took us on a trip up the funicular (a little mountainside cable train) to see the magnificent view of the sea and the beaches below us. There was a one hundred year old roller coaster at the top, as well as a lazy river that floated along the edge of the mountain. Both of these rides took us on breathtaking trips around opposite sides of the mountain, the lazy river featuring the turquoise sea beneath us and the roller coaster showing off the lush green of the Basque mountains and countryside next to us.

Another site that blew me away were the views from the Talai Berri winery that we visited on our second week. I remember complaining to my parents over the phone that it was such a dreary day, and that I didn’t want the gray weather ruining what I had heard was a spectacular view. I was pleasantly surprised once we arrived, and I saw that the cloudy skies didn’t deter from the beauty of the expansive fields and burnt clay colored houses in the slightest. In fact, there was something extra dreamy about the foggy fields and misty, rolling hills, and it became clear to me then and there that even the weather was not a force with the power of distracting from the mystical beauty of the Basque Country.

Before getting to the city, I was skeptical of the claims that San Sebastian held the title for some of the best food in Europe, since I personally had never heard of the city, least of all its food, by name before. I was put in my place as an amateur foodie almost immediately after arrival by the simplest of things: bread and cheese. Our first night, having arrived in that not-so-sweet spot between 4:30 and 7:30 when most restaurants were closed for siesta, my classmates and I set out on a mission powered by a mix of curiosity and desperation to find some food for ourselves. Each time we thought we had found a place, the host would tell one of us (in Spanish, of course) that they were only open for drinks, and that the kitchen would remain closed until 7:30 or 8:00.

Eventually, after about an hour of wandering in this new and foreign city, we stumbled across a market packed with shelves of cheeses, jamon, and freshly baked bread. Our group scrambled to find a nearby park to feast. Somehow, that meal (costing no more than 5 euros) was the best I’d had in weeks, although it couldn’t begin to compare to any of the food that San Sebastian had in store for us next.

The pintxo tour in Parte Vieja really opened my eyes to the successful creativity of the Basque people when it came to their food. Each dish was so simple in terms of ingredients, yet so incredibly flavorful. We tried things like gazpacho, fresh anchovies on toast and even pig’s ear. While I’ve always considered myself an adventurous eater, it was really cool to explore this new cuisine, and super fun to watch my classmates venture outside of their comfort zones and discover their new interests.

Learning about and interacting with the languages (Spanish and Basque) was probably the most fascinating and rewarding aspect of the trip for me. I had a lot of trouble keeping up with my classmates in our Spanish classes, but I found that it provided me with a new perspective to take home with me and a new appreciation for language, which I find to be the most interesting part of culture. This trip presented me with so many new obstacles that challenged me to put both my verbal and nonverbal communication skills to the test, as well as rethink the way I viewed communication, even within the English language.

In the end, I’m just so thankful that I had the opportunity to be a part of this amazing trip!

Hello or as the Basque say, “Kaixo“(pronounced kai-sho) from San Sebastián, Spain.

I’ve been here for 20 days, and as I’m writing this, I have a little less than half a day left. It feels like a lifetime has passed with all that I’ve done and discovered: bike riding along the beach, learning the bus routes, and exploring the city all while chasing the best pintxobar.I’ve enjoyed the community bond, the hospitality that San Sebastián has shown me, and so much tarta de queso (cheesecake). I don’t know if I’ll be able to just pack up and leave without leaving a bit of myself behind. 

Being a seasoned traveler, I must say that it begins to take a toll on the soul leaving pieces of yourself in every place you visit.With every trip, you learn new customs and traditions and in this case, I learned a new language as well. In my research, I found out that San Sebastián is in the country of Spain and is part of the politically autonomous region of Gipuzkoa. Gipuzkoa is one of seven provinces that make up Euskal Herria (Basque Country). Four of these provinces are in Spain, and the other three are in France. Though only recognized by the Spanish government, the Basque Country has a co-official language that still thrives among its people.Euskera, spoken by a little over one million people, is estimated to be between 2,000–3,000 years old and has no roots tying it to any other known language making it an isolate language. The world of languages has always fascinated me, and this trip has definitely fed that obsession. Our talks with the professor about the Spanish Civil War and Franco’s dictatorship only made me question even more about this language.

A couple of days ago, I was privileged enough to go on an adventure to meet four volunteers who translate biblical literature. They dedicate themselves to staying up to date with translating publications into the Euskera language. In order to get to the translation office, I took Bus 13 from the Boulevard, sat back, and watched the scenery, get higher and higher. It got to a point where I was hanging onto the small handrest to avoid sliding off my seat while the bus took the curbs. And finally, Google Maps told me I had arrived. I pressed the call button, and the bus stopped. I was in what felt like the furthest point outside of San Sebastián. When I arrived, my contact told me I had to get to the street above to take an elevator. I followed the instructions and ended up in front of a random elevator. I didn’t know what to expect, but a random elevator that would lead me to a parallel street was definitely not it. When I arrived at the office, I was greeted in a very Basque way: a big hug and a kiss on both cheeks.

During our conversation, I asked, “If Euskera is a co-official language, and most everyone speaks Spanish, is it still necessary to translate these publications?”

I was given a very firm and heartfelt “yes.”

“It is the language of the Basque people’s heart. Yes, they understand and speak Spanish. However, when they hear a song or read a religious publication in the language spoken in the home where they grew up a language that comes from their parents, their grandparents it does something to them. It reaches their heart.”

Keeping that in mind, I was extremely excited for my first-ever Basque class. We met with Professor Stuart Kelling, and he gave us a lesson on what can only be described as the tip of the iceberg of this ancient language. Professor Kelling explained to us how the CIA’s research states it can take someone six months to learn and master Spanish however, it can take up to three years to master Euskera.Protecting ourselves from the wind behind “Construcción Vacía“ (“Empty Construction”) a sculpture found on the furthest tip of Concha Bay we listened. The wind was strong, the waves crashed on the rocky shore, and yet all I could hear was the pronunciation of a language that has survived so many hardships with its people.

In our compact lesson, we learned how to say a thousand thanks: “Mila esker.”

How to introduce ourselves: “Ni Carina naiz” (I’m Carina),
And how to ask someone their name: “Nola izena duzu?”

Our first-ever lesson wrapped up with practicing a dialogue to order at a bar. As Felix and I practiced ordering small beers (“zuritoa“), I was well aware of the fact that I was living in the moment. Experiences like these come around very rarely.

Mila esker, Donostia, for sharing your people and your streets with me. I hope to be back soon!

The second free weekend had finally come, and after days of relentless rain, the sun showed its face once more. It felt like a good omen – a sign from the universe that it was time to go out and explore. 

I started that Friday with a 5-mile run along 2 of San Sebastian’s 3 beautiful beaches, Ondarreta and La Concha. The temperature was perfect, the wind pushed me through the city streets, and I felt incredibly alive. After my run Felix and I decided to hit the beach, as it was too beautiful a day to waste inside. Originally, Felix, Tobi, Kenny, and I had planned to go to Biarritz, France that night for a party we had been invited to. Unfortunately, being poor planners, we didn’t think to buy bus tickets until the Thursday night before. This left us with few options for times, and extremely expensive tickets, so we had to scrap the plan. We remedied this mistake by buying bus tickets for Pamplona, Spain, on the Saturday of our free weekend. After the beach, we went to a few bars, trying new pintxos and drinks along the way. This has been one of my favorite things to do while in San Sebastian. I feel like I get to taste a small bite of the city with each pintxo I try. You also really see how life works here in Basque country. All kinds of people in every bar, talking and laughing, all together. It truly was a wonderful sight.

The next day, we took a bus to Pamplona. I had a small revelation on the bus of all places. I was looking down at my phone, an almost instinctive habit, and looked up to be graced with one of the most stunning views I have ever seen. I was on a highway, staring out the window at a valley of lush, green forest, speckled with orange-topped white houses. Everything seemed to be glowing, reflecting the sun’s warmth. It felt unnatural to be looking at something so beautiful while driving on a random highway. If I hadn’t looked up from my phone, I would’ve missed that spectacular view. I wondered to myself how many times this had happened. Times where I had been staring at a screen, when if I just looked up, I could’ve seen something magnificent. I didn’t even glance at my phone for the rest of that ride.

Once we arrived in Pamplona, we stepped out into this huge sun-bleached grass field. There were huge stone walls at the end of the field, making up what looked like an old fort. This was Ciudadela de Pamplona, a 16th-century military fortress. The citadel was a maze of stone and grass fields, littered with small ponds throughout. While this was the first thing we saw, we decided to explore some other parts of Pamplona. Less than a 5-minute walk from the bus station was Casco Antiguo, the old town. This area was made up of narrow streets and pastel-colored buildings. The Cobblestone paths were filled with people once again, congregating at the bars. We stopped for pintxos and drinks, then continued through the city. We didn’t come to Pamplona with any kind of plan for the day but eventually stumbled upon the Plaza De Toros. This was my favorite part of the whole weekend. For only 6 euros, we toured the famous bull fighting arena, with it also being the finish line for the running of the bulls. The tour began with a video, showcasing what the running of the bulls really looked like. People were being gored, trampled, and some even dying, but the tradition continues to live on. It was strange, even with it seeming like this barbaric and almost cruel sport, something about it was enticing for all of us. We all agreed that had we been in Pamplona about a month earlier, we’d have run with the bulls ourselves. Next we were led inside the arena, a vast open space with white sand. The arena was empty, but we imagined what it would be like with a full crowd. The stands packed, people yelling and cheering, the energy must be on a different level. After leaving the arena, we again wandered the streets of Casco Antiguo, stopping for gelato. I got a chocolate brownie mix, with a hint of orange. This was the best ice cream I have had in my entire life, without exaggeration. It was the perfect pick-me-up for us after a long day of exploring. To end the day, we walked back to the Ciudadela de Pamplona. We ventured through the labyrinth, eventually finding a way on top of the inner walls. This gave us a beautiful view of the park that lies within the fortress, as well as the outer walls. It was a great sight to top off our day trip to Pamplona. 

The final day of our free weekend was simple. It was sunny and hot, so the only logical choice was to hit the beach again. We bathed in the sun, swam in the waters of Ondarreta, and slept. For dinner, we wanted something cheap and consistent, so we had to get Turkish kebabs. We sat in a plaza near our language school Lacunza enjoying our food and discussing our weekend. One of our favorite things to do while living here in San Sebastian is discover new parts of the city, trying to map out as much as we can. With this in mind, we decided to walk to some neighborhoods we hadn’t been to yet, like Egia and the lower part of Gros. While not very exciting, these are the things that have made this trip so much fun, exploring new places, making new friends, and getting to call San Sebastian home.

In the past week, I’ve already found a sense of comfort in San Sebastián. The city feels welcoming in a way that makes it hard to imagine leaving. But last weekend, I took advantage of my free time to venture outside the city, and what followed was a mix of challenges, surprises, and unforgettable beauty.

Saturday: Chasing Dragons at Gaztelugatxe

Early Saturday morning, I set out for San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a place famous for its dramatic coastline and, for fans of Game of Thrones, as a filming location for Dragonstone. My journey wasn’t simple it took three buses and nearly four hours to finally arrive. 

When I reached the trail entrance, though, I was told all hiking reservations were fully booked for the entire month. After traveling so far, the news was infuriating. I quickly tried other checkpoints, stumbling through broken Spanish to smooth-talk my way in and hoping for luck, but each attempt ended in another denial.

Just as I was ready to give up, I returned to the original trail checkpoint. There, by sheer luck or fate, I met Marta, who happened to have an extra ticket because her husband couldn’t make the trek. She kindly offered it to me. In that moment, her generosity and kindness reminded me why I’ve already fallen in love with Spain, the people here are like no other, and their sense of community is so strong. Marta’s genrosity felt like a welcoming gift.

Walking the trail felt surreal. Gaztelugatxe is unlike anything I’ve ever seen: a rugged island rising from the sea, connected to the mainland by a winding stone staircase that climbs dramatically to the chapel at the summit. As I hiked, I felt both exhausted and energized, the kind of exhilaration that comes from being surrounded by nature’s beauty. Standing atop the cliffs, looking out at the vast ocean, I felt grounded and deeply connected to the people around me, even though we spoke different languages and came from all corners of the world. We all came to take in the immense beauty that nature has around us.

The climb back down was steep, but afterwards I rewarded myself with a jamón pintxo sandwich at a local hotel bar just off the trail head. I took a moment to reflect and stare down at the rolling hills before me. Later, on the bus ride back to San Sebastián, I found myself staring out the window as those same hills slipped by, feeling an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the chance to experience a place that felt so magical. More than anything, I felt connected to the people around me, to the land, and to something larger than myself. Standing atop that mountain reminded me of how small the world can feel when strangers from all over gather simply to marvel at nature’s beauty. 

Sunday: A Spontaneous Trip to France

After some much-needed rest, Sunday turned into another adventure. A few new friends from the trip, shout out Salma, Sebastian, Chom and I decided spontaneously over brunch to take the train into France. We rushed to the station, making it onto our first train just in time, and within 90 minutes, we arrived in Bayonne.

It was fascinating how a short trip across the border revealed such a different atmosphere. While Bayonne is still part of the Basque Country, its architecture, streets, and style felt distinct. We wandered through charming streets, admired a beautiful chapel with stained glass windows, and browsed small shops. I picked up postcards for my family and friends, hoping to share with them pieces of the journey.

After some time in Bayonne, we hopped on a bus to Biarritz, only 30 minutes away but with a completely different vibe. The city hugs the ocean, with beaches and cliffs that left me captivated. As we walked along the boardwalk, we stumbled upon a local orchestra performing in a courtyard. We sat there, briefly taking in the music and the beauty of the city around us. Later, we found a tunnel that opened up to a breathtaking view of the city and coastline as we watched the sunset over the city. 

As the evening came to a close, we made our way back toward the train station. At first, it seemed like we might be stranded as the google maps told us the next train wouldn’t arrive until the next morning. Panic set in as we debated whether to book an expensive Uber. Just as I was about to confirm the ride, a bell rang, announcing the arrival of a train to Hendaye. We sprinted across the station, scrambled to buy tickets, and managed to catch it just in time. From there, another train took us back to San Sebastián, where we finally arrived exhausted but full of relief and gratitude.

Looking back, the weekend was hectic at times but deeply rewarding. I’m grateful to be in San Sebastián and to have the chance to step into experiences that challenge me, surprise me, and connect me with people and places in unexpected ways. From the cliffs of Gaztelugatxe to the streets of Bayonne and the sunsets in Biarritz, I was reminded that travel isn’t just about seeing new landscapes, it’s about the shared moments too, the kindness of strangers, and the feeling of being part of something larger than yourself.

The day started with a bike ride to La Cunza, the school where we study Spanish with other international students. Biking through San Sebastián in the morning is the perfect way to see the city at its most peaceful and scenic time of the day. The smell of cafes opening, families walking by the beach, the ocean breeze blowing as we drift through the streets. After class we were visited by the author, Marti Buckley, who wrote the books, Basque Country: A Culinary Journey Through a Food Lover’s Paradise and The Book of Pintxos: Discover the Legendary Small Bites of Basque Country.

Marti shared with us an amazing story of how she came to live in Spain, her pursuit of culinary arts, and her journey of becoming an author. Hearing Marti’s story in person gave so much more weight to the books we read prior to the study abroad trip. She talked about how she first came to Spain temporarily, where she worked in a restaurant kitchen of predominantly men and worked her way up to becoming an experienced chef. It wasn’t easy, but she couldn’t shake the feeling that she wanted to come back and build a life there. Eventually she found a program that allowed her to return to Spain permanently through visa, and that’s when she really started to dive into experimenting with Basque cuisine.

What stuck with me most was how she realized that no books were made specifically about this culture’s food and decided she had to be the first person to do it. I also admire her courage and perseverance because she didn’t begin with any type of professional test kitchen, but instead she did it right in her apartment even going into the late hours of the nights after work. She experimented with recipes, testing and tweaking until she got them right. Those experiments eventually paved the way to her cookbooks as she was able to publish them through the help of her connections with one the best publishers around. 

Beyond food, Marti’s message was really about pursuing a career that fulfills you. She also reminded us that even though our parents can seem disapproving or unsupportive of our choices, it often comes from love and wanting the best for their children which is something I resonated with.

Afterwards, we shifted gears completely and went to the Albaola Maritime Culture Factory. We caught a city bus and then walked through streets near the port until we reached Albaola. Albaola is both a museum and a working shipyard, dedicated to keeping Basque maritime traditions alive. At first I was a little skeptical because I’m personally not a fan of museums but I’m pleased to say that this tour certainly did not disappoint. 

Inside, the air smelled of sawdust and resin which a lot of people seemed to like for some reason . The people worked with hug wooden beams, fascinating tools, and other traditional methods passed down through centuries. We learned about how Basque shipbuilders were among the first and best in Europe during the Age of Exploration. Their ships carried explorers and fishermen across the Atlantic, and they played a huge role in whaling as well. It blew my mind to realize that Basque sailors were able thrive on the boats living off cider for months before reaching land. 

What made Albaola special was that it wasn’t just about looking at history behind glass. It’s a living school, where people from around the world come to learn shipbuilding the traditional way. Watching people dedicate themselves to preserving these techniques reminded me of Marti’s message about persistence. Whether it’s cooking or carpentry, a meaningful career is worth striving for.

From there we took a boat ride to Pasai San Juan, a small fishing neighborhood across the water. Compared to San Sebastián, it felt tucked away and almost frozen in time. Narrow streets wound between colorful houses with plants on balconies, and you could sense how closely tied the place is to their maritime culture. For example, we stopped inside a church that reflected that connection in a surprising way. Built into the decorations were models of ships and other related symbols which I found to be very unique.

Biking home through the streets of San Sebastián, it struck me how these lessons all blend together. Whether it’s writing a cookbook for others or building a ship by hand, the Basque Country shows that fulfillment comes from dedication, patience, and a willingness to keep going even when the path is uncertain. 

Long before arriving in San Sebastián, I found myself anticipating one thing above all else: the pintxos! As Marti Buckley explains, a pintxo is a small dish—something you can eat in just two or three bites—traditionally enjoyed while standing at the bar with a drink in hand. They’re an expression of Basque culture, meant to be shared, savored, and enjoyed in good company. Unlike tapas in other parts of Spain, pintxos are usually ordered individually, and each bar takes pride in its own specialties. San Sebastián has earned its reputation as a culinary capital largely because of these little bites and the vibrant social ritual that surrounds them. The tradition is to hop from bar to bar, sampling a drink and a pintxo or two at each stop. It’s less about filling up on food and more about connecting—with friends, family, and the buzzing energy of the city itself. Unlike in the U.S., it’s completely normal to see children in bars here—it feels more like an extension of daily life than something frowned upon. I had been looking forward to experiencing pintxos, and I have to say, everything I’ve tasted so far has exceeded my expectations. Our group went on a pintxo tour led by Professor Z in Old Town, and the first thing that struck me was the architecture—it felt like stepping back in time. First Stop: Bar Borda BerriBar, Borda Berri is known for its take on creative Basque pintxos, with a focus on seasonal, high-quality cuisine. Walking in was overwhelming at first: the bar was crowded, buzzing with energy, and we had to squeeze our way into a little corner. But almost immediately, I felt that rush of immersion—like I was part of something real. What fascinated me most was how orders were handled. Instead of electronic systems or even writing things down, the staff simply yell orders to the kitchen, and when they’re ready, they shout them back out to the customers. Honestly, I don’t know how they keep it all straight—it just sounds like a lot of yelling to me—but somehow, it works, and has worked since 2001. Unlike many pintxo bars where cold dishes line the counter, Borda Berri serves everything made-to-order from its chalkboard menu. The presentation was stunning, with colorful plates that looked like edible works of art. Highlights included:

• Salmorejo: A chilled, creamy orange soup that was vibrant, refreshing, and perfect for summer. I didn’t expect to like it as much as I did, but I would’ve happily had a second bowl.
• Veal cheek: Hands down, the most tender beef I’ve ever had—possibly the best meat of my life—served with a sauce I’ll be dreaming about. I almost dropped my fork in disbelief at how soft it was.
• Three-cheese risotto: Straight from Marti’s book, rich and smoky, easily the best risotto I’ve ever tasted.
• Bacalao (cod) cooked in its own gelatin with parsley sauce—an unusual slimy-yet-fresh texture that somehow worked. I never thought I’d put “slimy” and “delicious” in the same sentence, but here we are.
• Pig’s ear: My first time trying it—surprisingly tender, flavorful, and balanced with apple sauce. Not going to lie, I hesitated before the first bite, but I was glad I pushed myself.

By the end of this stop, my tastebuds felt alive with adventure. As we walked toward our next stop, we were met with a surprise: a Basque band parading through the streets. The music, the drums, the laughter—I couldn’t stop smiling. It felt like the whole city was pulling us into the celebration. We had arrived during Semana Grande (Big Week), a festival full of fireworks, music, tourists, and endless energy. Next stop: Bar Txepetxa. We reached Bar Txepetxa just before its siesta closing. This bar is legendary for its anchovies. If anchovies aren’t your thing, it might seem intimidating—but if you’re open to adventure, this is the place to be. For years, the family never wrote down their secret marinade recipe—the mother and son were the only ones who knew it by heart. After narrowly avoiding a car accident, they realized how easily it could be lost. From then on, they wrote it down, and to this day, they still prepare it fresh each morning. The toppings were surprising—one of my favorites was anchovies with blueberries. I never would’ve paired the two, but it worked beautifully. Growing up Khmer, I’ve always appreciated bold flavors, and in that moment, I felt grateful that my palate was open enough to embrace something so unexpected. Our next stop was Casa Gandarias, where we tried octopus and sea urchin. For many of us, it was our first time trying sea urchin—and it definitely won’t be my last. I expected it to be slimy (I was bracing myself), but instead, it was creamy and paired perfectly with a hollandaise-like sauce. Another fear conquered! Of course, no food tour in San Sebastián would be complete without trying the famous Basque cheesecake. We ended the day at Bar La Viña, the birthplace of this dessert. Creamy, rich, and slightly caramelized—it was the perfect finale. Even coming from a culture with such a diverse range of flavors, I can honestly say my palate has expanded tremendously here. I’ve tasted some of the best food of my life, not just because of the ingredients or the techniques, but because of the pride the Basque people take in their craft. Here, food isn’t just about eating—it’s about sharing joy, culture, and community.

p.s. pro tip: the messier the bar floor, the better the food. If you know, you know!

As class ended at the Lacunza, it was time to group up and meet with Professor Julian in the San Sebastian district of Gros, where we would begin our tour, trying exotic pintxos. With a 10-minute bike ride from the school to the first pintxo spot at EGUZKI. It is utterly amazing how much of the scenery you can capture biking through the city; it makes you feel as if you are in a movie with cars and buses passing on one side and locals and tourists walking and eating on the other. As we approached the district, Gros, I noticed the similarities among each of the districts in San Sebastian, yet they all have their own identity. For example, the buildings throughout the city share similar colors and shades, but the actual architecture of the buildings and the environment are completely different.  

As we arrived at EGUZKI, we parked our bikes and saw Professor Julain in the distance. I always like to joke and say that when you run into Professor Julian, it is like a video game, kind of where you have all these areas to free roam, and we have Professor Julian as our guide for a section of our day. With 5 students on this tour, we had to be quick to grab a seat because the minute someone got up out of their seat, it would get swooped up in the blink of an eye. But luckily, with quick reflexes, we were seated and ready to order. 

After we picked out our first set of pintxos, I found it truly amazing how the owner of EGUZKI creates all the pintxos he’s going to sell in the bar in his kitchen at home, because the bar doesn’t have access to gas, so there’s no kitchen, just the owner and his crew, and the pintxos that are homemade and available for sale. And hearing this truly helped depict the beauty and passion the people of San Sebastian have for their community, and less for the money, just shows the culture that has been built here for centuries.  

But currently, what’s happening in the city is these older generations of bars are having issues with the younger generation, because they are seeing that the income isn’t great and that it’s hard to do more with their lives when completely running a bar, so were beginning to see a lot of the new generation push towards a new career like engineering or medical to make a good living and not have to carry the weight of the family owned business on their shoulders. 

Once the pintxos arrived, the display of sauces and colors was like no other, and it was cool how you could have no idea what sauce was on your pintxo, but have it taste wonderful. Also, as a group, we got to try this squid in its ink, which I can’t lie, at first I thought sounded a little odd, but after taking a bite, I was blown away by how good it was, and this was a good reminder for me to just not be afraid to try new things. I also was able to try sea urchin for the first time, and it definitely lived up to the hype. If you’ve never tried it, definitely do.

From here, we continued our tour, walking down Gros, soaking in the area and everything it had to offer, as we made our way towards TXOFRE TABERNA, our next pintxos spot, where we immersed ourselves in many assorted flavors and types of dishes. Serving sizes are exceedingly small here in San Sebastian compared to the United States, and it truly shows in the community because you hardly see any overweight people, and everyone seems happy. We were able to try some bacalao, tortilla, and much more with the food here, having many sauces that accompany the meals. You will never find a dish completely covered in a sauce; the less sauce on a dish, the more likely it is authentically made and will taste amazing.  

Uncordially we were only able to explore and eat at 2 pintxos spots in Gros because of the kitchens closing at 3:30 pm or as they represent the time over here as 15:30. But we were still able to see the different building and churches, and how no matter what district you go its always the same vibe of chilling at a bar, enjoying your drink and having some pintxos. But we were able to stop by and get some gelato, take a little walk near the beach, and then depart.  

But, for the brief time we had and the exploration we took, I had a wonderful time. I will repeat this, but the scenery in San Sebastian is like no other; it looks so amazing you might think it is AI-generated, and everything is not real. But being present here, I can gladly say this place is not AI and is just a true piece of art and a true representation of what life is truly about. 

Today, we journeyed up the mountain by la playa de Ondarreta using the funicular to see the sights that define the history of San Sebastián. The funicular operated as a time-traveling vehicle which transported us through steep slopes inside a wooden carriage that produced soft creaking sounds during elevation changes.The carriage interior contained the sounds of other travelers and the constant engine noise while the horizon displayed distant silhouettes of neighboring coastal towns. The city revealed itself to us through the rising elevation as a beautifully painted landscape which showed its streets and red-tiled roofs and shining shoreline at each new height. The ocean’s saltiness rose through the air even from our elevated position to mix with the fresh mountain breeze which created a perfect balance of scents that both refreshed me and brought deep tranquility.

The pastel-colored buildings have survived for more than a century because their owners carefully preserved their historic appearance to protect the city’s cultural heritage. The scene was breathtaking as if ripped from a Victorian painting.The pale blue waters of the Bay of Biscay glowed in the afternoon sun as they met the green hills and the pastel-colored buildings along the shore. The small fishing boats floated gently across the water while gulls occasionally shouted from beneath. The light cast a gentle glow that seemed to pass through the accumulated human history of the place creating a dreamlike atmosphere. The moment I stood there I entered a realm where time passed at a different pace and daily life froze to reveal the perfect blend of natural beauty and human-made artistry.

Later we steeled our resolve to attempt the oldest roller roaster in Western Europe experiencing the same thrills shared by locals a century ago. The wooden structure from another time period stood firm with its weathered yet strong frame which made soft creaking noises while sharing the tales of numerous riders who faced its steep turns and abrupt drops before our arrival. The seats displayed the signs of aging through their faded paint and smooth edges and their historical patina which develops only after many years of use. The chain produced a clinking sound while groaning as we ascended the initial hill before we secured ourselves into our seats.

The entire bay revealed itself from the summit before the water’s sparkle took our breath away before we dropped down. The unrefined excitement of each jolt and sway exceeded what contemporary rides typically deliver. The wooden track vibrated beneath us while enhancing our sense of adventure instead of diminishing it. The rushing wind hit my face so strongly that it forced out laughter which seemed to have been trapped until that precise instant. The ride ended at the station where I experienced the perfect blend of excitement and appreciation for having experienced a piece of history. The excitement of this ride remained unchanged for early thrill-seekers in the 1920s despite the different world they lived in.

Finally, we visited Eduardo Chillida’s sculpture, “Combs of the Wind” for deep introspection on the value of experiencing life for all its worth. The massive iron structures extended from the stone base into the ocean at the rocky coastline border while resisting both natural erosion and ocean currents. The ocean waves pounded against the shoreline with intense force while sending saltwater mist that stuck to our bodies and hair. The sculpture maintained its permanent strength which created an intense contrast with the ocean’s constant movement thus establishing a conversation between human artistry and natural elements. The experience made me feel tiny yet deeply linked to the entire universe like a single strand in an endless web of life. Observing the sculpture helped me define what the past has given me while understand the present is the only variable within my control.

The future may be far off but the present is what builds the foundation for a brighter future. I stood at the edge of the rocky coastline while the waves maintained their perpetual motion next to me. The realization was humbling because I understood I could not forecast or direct the future tides but I could modify the stones beneath my feet. The salty air carried a sense of promise which led me to make a silent pact to live each instant with increased attention and gratitude and courage no matter the adversity that arrises. The coastline received the golden sunset light as day ended and I brought back the deep knowledge that this experience would become an unalterable and precious piece of my personal history.

After nearly 24 hours of traveling, we all made it safely to San Sebastián. For many of us, this is our first solo trip without our families, an exciting and slightly nerve-wracking adventure. The weather here is truly spectacular. In the mornings, it’s nice and cool, perfect for a walk or run(if you’re the sport kind shoutout Matt who ran yesterday). Throughout the day, it becomes very hot, the kind of warmth that just makes you want to jump into the cold waters at the beach or escape to your hotel room. At la tarde, there’s an amazing breeze that sweeps through the city, and the weather here is truly spectacular.

Our first day was filled with new experiences, or at least mine. After settling into our hotel, we ventured out to find something to eat for dinner. Some of us settled on a Kebab place that was absolutely delicious, a spot I will definitely be visiting again. With our dinners in hand, we walked to the beach, eating as we watched the sunset, stunned to speak and our mouths filled with food. The view was so breathtaking that we couldn’t resist going frolicking in the sand and touching the water. Despite getting sandy feet and wet socks on our way back, it was completely worth it (shoutout Tobe for wearing air forces just like me).

Today was our first day of classes. Most of the class biked to school, but I chose to walk and watch the sunrise (because I don’t know how to). It was so nice to romanticize my life, to see all these TikToks of girls living out their 20s in new, beautiful cities and to be able to do the same thing myself. It was an amazing feeling of freedom and possibility and I truly can’t wait to see what I will do next. To be honest, I could barely sleep the night before because I was sick, but mostly, I was filled with excitement. 

I woke up and took my time getting ready. Having a slow morning where I could simply take my time doing things was amazing. After getting ready, I set off for my first full day in San Sebastián. The 45-minute walk was not bad at all, especially since I stopped multiple times to take pictures and watch the sunrise. I took so many photos along the way because the beach was honestly so mesmerizing.. The morning was so peaceful and quiet.

Since class today started at 8 a.m., I had plenty of time to go grab a fresh donut from a local bakery before heading in. Most shops open around 7:30 a.m, so I sat patiently outside the shop, waiting for the baker to open the doors. Once she did, I went in, only to find the street cleaners had beaten me to it. It’s so nice to see how eco-friendly San Sebastián is. They have different trash and recycling bins for each item, and it’s wonderful to see people dedicated to bleaching and cleaning the sidewalks and streets every morning.

Sitting on a bench nearby, listening to calm music and eating my freshly baked donut, I continued to romanticize my life. From asking the baker if she spoke English and only being able to point at what I wanted, to learning how to ask for the “sugar bread” at the next bakery, I could see the growth in just a few hours. The food here is so fresh and yummy, and I am actually addicted to this sugar-filled bread/donut thing. I bought a whole bag of them (and I am eating one as I speak).

 Lacunza, our Spanish school, is so nice. My class is small, with only two students from UML and three foreign students from different countries. It was so cool meeting people from all parts of the world and all walks of life who came to San Sebastián to learn Spanish. 

After school, we all ran some errands together. We got essentials like travel adapters and exchanged cash. We then had a walking tour of the city with Professor Julian. I feel like that’s when it truly clicked for me that I’m really on this trip by myself, in a whole new country, and I can do whatever I want. After the tour, I stopped by the old city, walked around, grabbed some food, and then took the bus back to our hotel, which 

made me feel like a local.

Today was amazing, our first full day in San Sebastián, and I got to apply a few words I learned from class in my interactions with store owners. It’s only day two, and I can’t wait to see what these next few weeks have in store for me. This city is already exceeding my expectations, and the experience has been so much fun. Well, that’s all I have for now. Hasta luego 👋🏾