If I could describe my study abroad experience in San Sebastián with just one word, it would undoubtedly be “opportunities.” This enchanting city in the Basque Country opened doors I never imagined, offering a wealth of experiences that expanded my worldview, deepened my appreciation for different cultures, and allowed me to forge connections that will last a lifetime.

Our journey to San Sebastián didn’t exactly start on a high note. What was meant to be an exciting beginning turned into a chaotic adventure of lost luggage, delayed and canceled flights, and unavailable bikes. The frustration of our travel mishaps cast a shadow over our initial excitement, and the sour taste lingered as we finally made our way to our hotel. But as with many things in life, first impressions can be deceiving, and San Sebastián had much more in store for us than we could have anticipated.

The morning after our arrival, we walked through the streets to our first Spanish class, still reeling from the exhausting journey. But as we strolled past the picturesque buildings, charming plazas, and vibrant markets, the beauty of San Sebastián began to reveal itself. The city, with its stunning coastline and majestic mountains, was a feast for our senses. Every turn seemed to offer a new breathtaking view or an intriguing corner to explore. It was clear that our study abroad experience was going to be much more than just an academic pursuit…

At Lacunza, our Spanish school, we were quickly divided into classes based on our proficiency levels. Some of us were nervous about being placed in new classes, especially in a foreign country where everything felt unfamiliar. However, those initial jitters quickly went away as we settled into our new routine. The classroom became a melting pot of cultures, with students from all corners of the globe. I met incredible people—fellow Americans as well as students from the Netherlands, Korea, Gibraltar, and many other places I never dreamed I’d have the chance to connect with. These friendships, born out of shared experiences and mutual curiosity, enriched my understanding of the world and provided new perspectives on life. 

San Sebastián is a city that caters to all kinds of interests, which made it perfect for our diverse group. Whether someone preferred the tranquility of the beach, the thrill of hiking in the nearby mountains, or the challenge of surfing the Atlantic waves, there was something for everyone. Some of us found solace in early morning runs, others in exploring the winding streets filled with shops and cafes. And for the more adventurous, the waves at Zurriola Beach beckoned, offering a chance to try surfing in one of Europe’s most famous surf spots. The city encouraged us to step out of our comfort zones and try new things, making every day a fresh opportunity to discover more about ourselves and the world around us.

One of the most delightful aspects of San Sebastián is its food, particularly the pintxos—small, flavorful bites that are the pride of the Basque Country. Every Thursday, the city’s bars participated in “Pintxo Pote,” where for just 3 to 3.5 euros, you could enjoy a drink and a pintxo of your choice. These evenings became a highlight of our time in San Sebastián, as we gathered together to sample the city’s culinary offerings. Pintxo Pote was more than just a chance to eat well; it was an opportunity to immerse ourselves in the local culture, to meet new people, and to experience the city’s vibrant social scene. Even when the lines were long, the anticipation of tasting a new pintxo kept the excitement alive. And if we missed out on something one week, there was always the promise of another Thursday, another bar, another chance.

As mentioned before, Donostia – San Sebastián is part of the Basque Country, a region with a rich and unique history. To better understand the culture, we visited the San Telmo Museum, which offered fascinating insights into the Basque people’s past and present. We also ventured beyond the city, taking day trips to nearby towns like Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz in France. These excursions allowed us to fully immerse ourselves in the region’s culture and even indulge in some of France’s famous croissants and chocolates (they were delicious) . Learning about the Basque language, which is unlike any other language in the world, was another highlight. Although I initially thought I might find some similarities with other languages I knew, I quickly realized that Basque was in a league of its own, and mastering it would require far more than just a few classes.

Reflecting on our study abroad experience, it’s clear that while our trip didn’t start as we had hoped, the challenges we faced only made the rewards that much sweeter. San Sebastián offered us countless opportunities to grow, learn, and explore, transforming us into wiser, more well-rounded, and curious individuals. The city welcomed us with open arms, and in return, we embraced everything it had to offer. What began as a chaotic journey ended up being one of the most enriching and transformative experiences of our lives—a true testament to the power of seizing opportunities, even when they come wrapped in quite unexpected packages.

Aside from spending three weeks learning Spanish in an immersion program, the beautiful Basque beaches were the main draw for me to visit San Sebastian. The beach has been my happy place since I was a small child. While others enjoy swimming, tossing a ball, or tanning in the sand, I prefer pacing up and down the shores, meticulously combing for sea glass. Anywhere I travel with a coast, I collect all I find and sort my collection by country of origin. My collection includes glass from the West and East Coasts of the United States, Canada, Chile, Belgium, England, Scotland, and Spain. 

WHAT IS SEA GLASS

Beach glass or sea glass is the worn-looking glass that washes ashore with soft edges, sandy texture, and a foggy opaque appearance caused by the churning in the churning of salty waves and sand. For me, it is physically impossible to leave the glass I see on the beach. Pieces that are “done” or worn enough I pocket, and those that are still jagged or clear I toss back in the ocean with the hopes that they are ready the next time they wash ashore.  Each piece of glass is a unique reflection of years spent at sea. A shard or glass takes ten to fifty years to achieve optimal shape, texture, and color. It is impressive how the types of sea glass that wash ashore reflect the culture in which they are found. The United States is a beer-centric social community. As a result, the dominant color of sea glass found along the coasts is beer bottle brown. In Spain, the most prevalent glass type is dark wine bottle green. Though the glass is often unrecognizable as to what it once was, some of the pieces maintain identifying markers of its former life. The ridges of a bottleneck, the indentation of a bottle base, or faded letters that once formed words etched into the glass.

Years of collecting have taught me that the hours on either side of low tide are ideal for scavenging. The tide is slack at this time, and treasures are less likely to be pulled out to sea. This presents its own challenge in revealing so much of the beach that it is hard to canvas it all before the incoming waves cover it again. My combing method involves tight zig-zags along the water, working upwards with the tide to thoroughly survey the most beach before it is washed away. 

Thursday, August 15th, was a national holiday in Spain, so different members of our group celebrated the long weekend in our own ways. Some traveled to other regions of Spain or completed an eight mile hike. I chose to dedicate each day of the weekend to a different beach in San Sebastion and determine the best beach glass collecting. 

ONDARRETA

I started on Thursday at Ondarreta Beach, the one nearest to the hotel where we are residing. This beach is the smallest of the ones in San Sebastion but is the only one with small patches of rocks sprinkled throughout the sand, where it is best to find sea glass. The low tide was around 3:30 pm, so I arrived at the beach at about 2. On this beach, I saw hundreds of pieces of sea glass ranging in size from an entire wine bottle base to a grain of rice. The majority of the pieces I found were shades of green. The darker green shards looked like the slate stones on the beach and were hard to identify if not for the unique way glass retains moisture when lying on the sand. Sometimes I wasn’t even convinced what I had picked up was glass until I held it against the sun and the faintest sliver of green glow shown through. Other greens were vibrant like a 7Up bottle or faint like a sea mist. Some glass was a blue-green hybrid, reflective of the sea color from which they had come. To my surprise, the most uncommon glass color I encountered was brown. The browns I did find were not the uniform beer bottle brown like in the United States but ranged from opaque dark brown to orangy-yellow. 

ZURRIOLA

On Saturday, I traveled across the Urumea Itsasadarra River to Zurriola Beach. This beach is popular among surfers for the large waves and rough surf. This rough surf is able to churn out the desired glass in a fraction of the time a calmer shore would. While I have heard that Zurriola is the best beach to scavenge beach glass in San Sebastion, my experience here was less than thrilling. After three hours of effort in combing the sand, I came away with only a dozen pieces of glass worthy of collection. This beach has far more unfinished pieces than any of the other two beaches I visited. 

LA CONCHA

The final beach of San Sebastian was La Concha (aka Kontxa) Beach, where I spent Sunday. This beach is vast, especially at low tide, when it is possible to walk from Ondarreta around the rock outcroppings all the way to the aquarium. During low tide, a sandbar runs parallel to the beach. One might think that the sandbar would catch the glass pieces as they washed ashore; however, I found more fragments among the sand where the waves lap during high tide. More curious was the fact that almost exclusively white and clear beach glass was present at La Concha. In total, the amount of glass I found was more than that at Zurriola but still only a fraction of what I collected at Ondarret. 

Sea glass from San Sebastián is more than just a keepsake—it’s a piece of history shaped by nature. Each fragment tells a story, whether it once belonged to a vintage bottle or a piece of glassware from decades past. The beautiful array of colors wonderfully contrasts those found anywhere else.

San Sebastián has far exceeded my expectations since I arrived. In a little over one week in the city, I have quickly discovered a place that attracts me back. The combination of natural beauty, rich culture, the people playing football in the streets and beaches and of course not to forget the delicious cuisine has stolen my heart; this marks the beginning of a deep and lasting love affair with this vibrant city.

Breakfast for all of us is always together at 8 am every morning unless someone is late, which tends to happen quite often, marking the start of the day while spending quality time with each other and getting to know each other in order to make a sense of family with each other even though being so far from our actual families. Besides boosting our energy levels each day, our daily bike rides to our Spanish class also connect us more closely with the beautiful sceneries of San Sebastian City in Spain. These are not just ordinary language classes but lively centers for interactive learning where I have come to appreciate the process of learning a language. By asking questions only in Spanish and getting answers from teachers similarly expressed, I am able to grasp fully every single word, instead of the usual google translate.

One unforgettable experience which happened after class today was when we went to La Viña, which is well known for its famous cheesecake. There was nothing ordinary about this dessert; it tasted like eating a cloud due to its fluffy texture and heavenly taste, which marked it as the most remarkable dish ever consumed while visiting this part of Spain.

The journey of the history and language surrounding the Basque region is intricate and politically charged. In France, attempts to unite the Republic resulted in the partitioning of Basque area thus reducing its political power. In contrast, under Franco’s rule in Spain, the Basque language was suppressed and completely banned. After Franco’s death, there was an enthusiastic cultural revival that reclaimed and prioritized the place of Basque language. At present, among others, Spanish Basque Country has English and Spanish as official languages while basque is not only an official language but also a primary language in schools.

In Biarritz I felt their pride in being Basques. Nevertheless, there is still a notable sense of pride in its true identity as apparent from the several flags of this ethnic group littered all around together with items sold that draw their inspiration from this culture displayed throughout the city streets. The town boasts stunning architecture alongside beautiful beaches that contribute to its attractiveness. However, I still wonder about how many people actually speak basque in this French part of the basque country.

Biarritz may be irresistible with the picturesque views but it couldn’t overcome my urge to go back to San Sebastian for Semana Grande. This festival stands out as a sightseeing gem over which marvelous fireworks are lit up spilling into La Concha, casting a magical spell all over the city. Followed by a late night concert led by a DJ playing great songs from different generations, which showcases the amazing nightlife in San Sebastian.

San Sebastián is also a harmonious combination of beautiful landscapes during the day and vibrant nightlife as well. Whether walking through sun-soaked sands of La Concha beach or roaming at night in Parte Vieja’s (Old Town) busy streets, relaxation and entertainment abound in this city. The culinary scene in San Sebastián too sets it apart as a food lover’s paradise with its rich Michelin-starred restaurants and traditional Basque pintxo bars. In fact, each meal here reveals flavors ranging from fresh seafood to innovative presentations that showcase the city’s gastronomy.

Living in San Sebastián brings different experiences depending on one’s age – for teenagers, it is about exploring new things while for adults, cultural richness becomes a way of life that will be enjoyed till old age. Not just another place to visit but an experience by itself; San Sebastian is an amazing place to encourage personal growth and self reflection. Especially by meeting and getting to know other teenagers that have grown up mostly in Europe, it is an interesting way to see another way of living and reflecting what kind of lifestyle you would prefer moving forward.

San Sebastian is not just a place to visit but it’s a city that you will want to be part of and fully live in it, and that invites one to dig deeper into its lively life and culture. It’s rather a destination which does not only receive visitors but instead wins over their hearts with irresistible force enforcing continuing connection and guarantees new surprises after every comeback.

I’ve always thought of myself as a “wine girly.” Meaning, I consider wine my preferred choice of alcohol. And while I am not old enough to indulge in the alcoholic beverage in America, that never stopped me from fantasizing about the day that I could. I loved the idea of curling up with a good book and a glass of sweet wine at the end of a long day. With the drinking age being lower in San Sebastian, Spain I was able to time travel into that day and have experience 2.5 years earlier.

My time in Spain has been nothing short of therapeutic, eye opening, and peaceful. I spend most of my nights walking either alone or with a couple friends aimlessly through the city translating menus, restaurant hopping, and learning how to communicate effectively in Spanish. At dinner I look forward to trying a new type of wine every night. My first day I tried vino tinto– red wine. I learned that while to me, it looks the most sophisticated to drink, it is not for the faint of heart. Its strong smell and rich taste is a little overwhelming for new wine drinkers like myself. I’ve found an appreciation for vino blanco – white wine as well as for rosé. Both are softer and sweeter wines.

While it’s been a pleasure to splurge on a variety of Spanish wines, it was an absolute honor to visit a winery in Zarautz. Talai Berri is a 5th generation owned winery. We were given a walking tour where we learned how wine is made – a great process that occurs long before wine can be purchased off of a shelf. 

In the winter grape vines are clipped to small sticks to keep them from breaking and allowing them to continue to grow. In the spring they start to bud and flower but they won’t be fully grown and eligible for harvesting for another 60 or so days. The grapes are then plucked and put on a conveyor belt for further inspection. By hand the employees of Talai Berri inspect the graped, throwing out any that appear rotten. After the grapes are thoroughly checked they go into a machine that crushes them. White wine and red wine are made separately. Rosé, which is a more pinkish wine, is a mixture of both red and white grapes. I learned that in order for wine to appear red they must thoroughly crush the skin that will end up dying the wine. After the grapes are liquified, they are put in a big cylinder container to cool down. This process takes place around September. While cooling, the wine is further separated ensuring a smooth liquid finish with no excess skin peels. This process takes about 24 hours. Afterwards, the soon to be wine is put in a different cylinder container that’s job is to heat up and cool down the wine until it is properly fermented. A couple weeks later the wine is ready, it is placed back in the cooling container where it sits until mid November waiting to be bottled. After, it is bottled, labeled, and ready to be sold. 

I’ll admit, I never put much thought into how wine was made before my trip to the winery. I simply just appreciated it for the wonderful drink that it is. I can proudly admit now that I have a certain sense of admiration for the beverage that I didn’t have before. Especially since wine is such a huge part of the culture in Spain, I liked learning about how it is made. The next time I sip on some wine I will think of the time, dedication, hard work, and many many grapes that it took for me to be able to indulge in a glass of wine. 

The tour of the winery gave me time to reflect on life back home in the States. Before coming to Spain I found myself lacking patience and in turn being anxious about my future. I sometimes worried that it was taking too long to get to where I wanted to be in life. If the winery and my time in Spain has taught me anything it is to trust the process and to live in the moment. I’ve loved every second of my time here; San Sebastián in a way, has given me a new perspective on life. It has taught me the art of patience and that just like wine, all good things take time!

So what do you do? What is your major gonna be? Do you have a job planned out after college?

Ever since we were old enough to have more profound career ideas than being a mermaid, it seems as if everyone you meet asks these kind of questions. Especially when you hit freshman year of high school, the mindset is you need to find a job and you need to figure out your whole life and career as soon as possible. Not only is there so much pressure and stress placed on young minds that don’t have everything figured out yet, many teens are rushed into making choices they don’t necessarily know enough about. And it continues into adulthood, everything revolves around your job, you have to work and work and work and make money and then when you go home you have to send 50 emails and answer long chats with your boss and stress about the company, etc. for many Americans. And for some people this is life and they are happy, but for the Basque Country that has been our home for the past week, it is not quite the same.

Today we had the pleasure of speaking with Marti Buckley, an opportunistic young woman who moved from America all the way to the lovely San Sebastián. Marti happened to study abroad in Pamplona and after coming back a few years later, never happened to return to the United States. After only a week here it really is hard to not fall in love with the mountainous background overlooking crystal blue water and beaches full of people. But of course you’re going to love anywhere with a beach and a pretty view if you’re on vacation, we had to find out if living in San Sebastián is really all it seems. And so we sat in a nice park right on the water with historical buildings contrasting freshly trimmed grass and sprinkling fountains and we listened. Not just to Marti Buckley adventures but the buzz of anyone and everyone walking around. Everywhere you look people are walking by, either taking their dog for a stroll or chatting with friends or a loved one. You can’t help but feel the lack of urgency and absence of loneliness. Just sitting in a park you see how social and alive the city is on a random Monday afternoon. Marti explained to us how there is no thoughts about your job when you leave, work is separate than your life and you really get that anywhere you go here. The lack of stress and rush really builds such a social atmosphere which, coming from talking to someone who lives and works here, is really crucial to having a life that doesn’t revolve around your job. In San Sebastián you work to live, but your life is not your job. When you get home you don’t answer emails and chart information, you disconnect. Life is about socializing, good food, and family. I can’t imagine anyone here crowds around a tv at home every single afternoon or lies in bed and scrolls on tik tok or Instagram, it seems as if everyone who lives here is out and about, catching up with friends over a pinxto and a drink, walking around with family and especially dogs, or just meeting new people at a bar. Of course a tourist is gonna say this place is relaxed and full of excitement, but we had the opportunity to chat with locals such as Marti and live in and explore areas that are not necessarily tourist run and it truly had an atmosphere of always being surrounded by two things: good food, and different people.

Now the most important and exciting part, the food. Of course the assigned reading for a trip to one of the food capitols of the world had to be a cookbook. Now Marti Buckley put in some serious work to make these cookbooks and it was very impressive to learn how in depth and sometimes dirty she got to make these dishes. The basque take pride in their food, as it is one of the biggest cultural aspects of the people. Marti even explained how she’s been invited to big festivals revolving solely around beans and more. The culture surrounding food in San Sebastián is huge. If you are between any events such as work or waiting on a friend for dinner, you’re gonna hop over to a pinxto bar and laugh over a small bite that is either incredibly flavorful yet seemingly so simple, or the most complex culinary experience you’ve had placed on top of a piece of bread. The dishes here have stories, there is pride in the food they make at every bar, and Marti told us how she experimented with every recipe to find the most complex meals. She spoke with every generation that cooked this meal and practiced in her own kitchen to really do the history justice to each dish. Whether washing out intestines are walking into basements splattered with blood from various animals, Marti went everywhere and did everything to bring the world the first accurate cookbook that brings the basque dishes to life from your own home. Of course meals here are not just a meal, it’s an experience and you have to enjoy each plate with friends or loved ones and many many stories full of laughing and talking for hours. There is no rushing of waiters to stop yapping and hogging a table, there is more disappointment if you don’t finish a dish and relaxed bites where you marvel at how good the food is and then move on to the next conversation. The dishes I see in Marti’s books have genuine memories behind each one. As a foodie myself, some of the most fun I’ve had is going out to get dinner with my classmates and having one of the best meals of my life on a casual Tuesday. Sometimes we make plans based on what delicious new food we are going to try that day. For one I can not shut up about Papperino’s gelato, but that’s another story. There is no possible way to try every pinxto in Marti’s book but every time you try one it is fantastic.

It is difficult to explain an ordinary day in San Sebastián because we got the best luck possible for our timing. This week is semana grande, a week in which every day is packed full of festivities, some more modern and some very traditional. Every single day there are events happening around the city everywhere. Today, the weather was terrible. Rainy and miserable, and yet the streets were packed full of children in pop up trampoline parks and little street markets. We have the pleasure of not having cars here, not much of a pleasure when we have to go uphill to our hotel every day, but it genuinely is a blessing to get to walk or bike everywhere as you are constantly immersed in the activities and you get to see everything happening around you, some very peculiar sights included during semana grande. Today we turned a corner to see these huge figures of Basque characters parading down the street packed full of people. We never would have seen this if not for the bikes and how walkable the city is. Every night there is people flooding the streets everywhere you look to watch the grand firework competitions and live music can be heard in the distance. There is just such a sense of culture and connectedness around San Sebastián like we talked about with Marti.

I think the ultimate lesson I took away from Marti was that you shouldn’t give up on an idea no matter how crazy it might be. Marti really loved her time in Basque Country on a study abroad and even though she was just starting a family and everyone said it was a bad idea to go abroad again in San Sebastián for a year, she took the chance and ran with it. And now she lives a life full of incredible food and a strong sense of community to raise her kids. To bring it back to the beginning, life in San Sebastián is one not about how much you work and that agenda of moving fast and not appreciating the beauty of people. Life in San Sebastián is one of hard work, but also the appreciation of leisure and happiness, two generally separate things. Life here is about getting some good food with great company and never in a rush. You take it one bar at a time and chat away for hours, maybe pick up a new friend or two, and you continue the journey. The best part of life is enjoying your company, and in my opinion, enjoying your food, and you can find both of these everywhere you go here in the lovely San Sebastián.

Many cuisines are easily characterized by outsiders due to signature flavor profiles, ingredients, or scents. Japanese food is memorably umami, Thai food is tropical, and Persian food is famous for saffron and sumac. It’s difficult, when you’re eating pintxos or raciones, to point out what that cohesive factor is for Basque cuisine. Is it bread? Vinegar? Anchovies? Wine? Maybe even…salt?

The Basque cuisine, which is so rich in diversity, cannot be distilled into a spice bottle. For Basque cuisine, what distinguishes it from any other cuisine I have tried is its subtlety and mildness.

Earlier this week, I told our stylish and savvy tour-guide Olga how I noticed the simplicity of Basque gastronomy; how it felt like every dish I consumed was made of less than 6 ingredients. She nodded her head to this, proudly explaining that Basque people might think “What are you hiding?” If they were presented a dish that was processed to the point that its constituent ingredients were no longer identifiable by taste or appearance.

Olga’s quote has stayed in my mind for days now. The idea of hiding versus showcasing produce or meat is a cultural attitude that I find endlessly fascinating. Gipuzkoa is fortunate to have it all: beautiful, walkable cities blended seamlessly with the mountains and the ocean, and plenty high-quality local crops, livestock, and seafood catches to play with in the kitchen. It is clear now, that the unifying feature in every bite of Basque food I have tried so far is the chef’s palpable pride for their homeland’s terrain. The taste, assembly, and presentation of the food is not exceedingly complex, and that’s the point.

This means that consuming a single pintxo here is an easy way to get a glimpse into local agricultural traditions that span centuries of history. However, there is a catch! A pintxo (not to be confused with tapas, which are larger) is at maximum five bites of food. It is possible, especially if you’re a tall, jet-legged, hangry young woman, that you might inhale a pintxo before you even properly lay eyes on it. (Totally not speaking about myself here…)

Inhaling food is a mistake I’ve made many times while dining with friends at home. I don’t know how many times I went to a hip, hot ethnic spot in town, purposefully intending to have a life-changing experience, but wolfed down each dish before its original appearance had registered in my brain. After the ordeal, I might remember that my meal was spicy…sweet…or worse: just “good.”

This leads to another point: eating at a pintxo bar is typically a social, laidback experience, and they are not usually ate in a rush. You can grab a couple of bites at one pintxo bar with friends and family, and let the conversation you started at the first pintxo bar float you over to the next. Gros is a neighborhood in San Sebastián known for being a great destination for this exact activity, with a list of Michelin recommended spots to try.

Gwen, Candice, Cam, Stacey, Krissy, our professor Julian, and I started our pintxos tasting tour with Zabaleta and ended it by having gelato at the famous Papperino. In between, we visited Bar Bergara (Michelin recommended!), Bar Ricardo, & Eguzki Bistro & Bar.

My favorites were the Gilda from Zabaleta, the Squid Ink Pintxo I tried at Eguzki, and the grande cup of Lotus & Apple Crumble gelato I had from Papperino. I think it’s funny that my favorites were emblematic of the past and the present; the Gilda – a skewer of pickeled peppers, olives, and anchovies – is a classic pintxo, while my black squid pintxo at Eguzki was reminiscent of the Squid in Its Own Ink Basque claassic, but featured some Japanese influence, too.

This is a good point to mention that the food scene is San Sebastián is home to not just Basque or Spanish cooking, but a plethora of excellent chefs also practicing French, Japanese and Latin American cuisines, too. A new Ghanaian restaurant just opened in Gros, too! Perhaps we’ll stop there next week…

It’s hard to imagine returning to Boston especially when I consider how different the work-day and the food culture is. I look forward to bringing back a slow pace of eating and exploring, as well as making an effort to eat fewer meals alone. The Basques live so long, and I have no doubt that grazing all day with great companions is a factor of that equation.

With that, I’ll say Agur (which means goodbye in Basque)!

After classes, the group split in half and separating the tour into two day, and came to Parte Vieja with hungry stomaches, ready to explore the most popular and famous pintxo bars in this part of the city. We meet in Haizea bar, a small crowded bar where everyone is shoulder to shoulder, as we learned is how pintxos should be eaten in our summer reading of Marti Buckley’s book.

Starting off with one of, if not the most, famous pintxos in San Sebastian, the Gilda. The Gilda, named after Rita Hayworth’s character in a movie that premiered the same year, is a simple three ingredient pinxto of guindilla pepper, anchovies, and olives, skewered onto a toothpick. A quick bite, sideways and slid off the toothpick, the Gilda offered a mouthful of salty, sweet, and slight acidic taste. This delicacy was followed by Brick de Bacalao, a cod dish beautifully presented on a plate with a creamy texture and a crunchy crust; so good that a few burned their tongues on the steaming dish not wanting to wait for it to cool. We were surprised to find that it lacked any fishy taste or smell, creating a savory, melt in your mouth, feeling. Some of the group decided to pair these two first pintxos with a glass of vino blanco (white wine) which went well with the two.

Moving into the busy labyrinth of Parte Vieja, we try pintxos outside an extremely crowded bar, Borda Berri. This stop included pintxos such as salmorejo with cottage cheese and sardines, which was a favorite of many in the group, and beef cheek cooked in red wine that pulls apart easily and was very tender.

We walked again until we reached Txepetxa, a bar famous for their anchovies. Being a family owned bar, this famous recipe for their anchovies is still only known by the mother and son, and will remain a secret as the only place it is written down is locked in a safe box. We got the chance to try these famous pintxos on this tour. We were each served two bread pintxos topped with the anchovies, one with peppers and one with crab. These seafood pintxos were a personal favorite, as well as a favorite or multiple people in the group.

We briefly stopped as a small butcher-like shop, selling pork, as well as other cooking ingredients and a wall of wine bottles. Here, we were able to taste the difference between a two porks: one which had a pure acorn diet for the last six months of its life, and one which was not pure. While both samples were delicious and salty-sweet, they both had distinct flavors and textures. The group was split between which was better, but it’s the opinion of many that the pure acorn died porn is of the higher quality.

We finish the tour at Ganbara; usually a very long line, the wait was surprisingly short for such a famous bar. We had several pintxos here, only some being a plate of delicious mushrooms and a skewered pintxo with monkfish. We ate, despite being full already, and were happy to try every food. We ended with, of course, dessert; a necessity for the sweet tooth. Torrija was a delicious treat that was hot and sugary, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, creating a rich and creamy dessert.

While we ate and had fun, we also learned much about the culture around pinxtos and city life in San Sebastian. We were elbow to elbow with each other, a far cry from the personal space we’re used to, and yet still enjoying the moment with delicious and quick bites, as well as talking and enjoying each other’s company. We learned about the detailed history of not only the food we ate but also the bars and restaurants that served them. Establishments passed down from generations, world class cooks, pintxo award winners, and much more. While we mostly stayed together, we saw the true way of eating pintxo was to be social, talking to many and meeting new people. We carried this into the night when many of us went to Pintxo Pote, an event where multiple bars had a drink and pintxo for around three euros. With the Lacunza school, we all spoke and got to know people we have never talked to as well as our friends.

For several of us on this trip, the pinxto tour was one of the biggest steps in immersing ourselves into the culture of San Sebastian. With full stomachs and light hearts, we continue to explore and learn more about day to day life in this beautiful city, and experience all it has to offer us. At home, we’ll be able to tell everyone about our experience and how the pintxo culture works, bringing people together to enjoy a bite and a drink after work, or even just to go out and socialize.

Kaixo

This was the first word that we learned today in our first ever Basque lesson. Kaixo (Ky-show) is the Basque word for hello. When traveling to another country with a different language and culture than your own, hello is the most important word to know. Other words such as please (mesedez), thank you (eskerik asko), and goodbye (agur) are also good to know, but hello is essential. This is especially true when related to languages such as Basque (Euskara in Basque), where the people are fighting hard to maintain their identity. By starting off a conversation with a person in their primary language, you are primarily accomplishing two things. First off, you are showing respect. By using their language you are showing that you put the time and effort into trying to understand them as a thank you for welcoming you into their home. The second thing that you accomplish with your greeting is the creation of a connection with the person you are talking to. By using their language you immediately have a commonality with that person. Having something to relate to helps people connect. It through connecting with others that we can truly begin to understand their culture and way of life as they also learn about our own. Shouldn’t it be our goal to try to understand as many people as possible?

Classes

Our classes at Lacunza are also an integral part of becoming more knowledgeable about the world. The people in the Spanish classes that we take every morning are from all over the world. On the first day of classes I was nervous because I was the only one put in my class, but I quickly got over my nerves and began making friends. The people in my class are from all over the world including England, Germany, India, Austria, Netherlands, and Switzerland. Now, on the third day I go to get coffee and chat with my classmates and learn all about their lives back home. It is truly amazing to see not only the differences, but how much we all have in common. In reality, our lives are not all that different from one another and it is fun to connect with them and hear their insights.

Pintxos

One of the most important foods in the Basque culture is the Pintxo (Peen-cho). Essentially, Pintxos are defined as small portions of food generally held together with a toothpick. However the most important thing that makes a Pintxo a Pintxo is not the ingrediants, but the atmosphere. Pintxos are intended to be consumed at bars while out with friends, they as much of a way of life to the Basque as their language. Today was the first day I got to really experience Pintxos. Eating the Pintxos helps take you a step closer to understanding the Basque way of life.

The above pictures display some of the different Pintxos we got to try today including prawn, Croquetas, fried peppers, and sardines. They were amazing. We decided that this was the best food we had eaten so far in San Sebastian and was an amazing introduction to Basque culture.

Exploring the City

Today in our spare time we had a chance to explore the city in our free time. We previously had a walking tour, but another great way to understand a way of life is to explore it on your own. Today our wanderings brought us to Mount Urgull and Paseo Nuevo. We didn’t have time to climb all the way to the top of Mount Urgull, but we went part of the way up and got to experience San Sebastian from another perspective. It was a cloudy day, but the views were breathtaking.

Paseo Nuevo was also amazing in its own respects. The view of the ocean crashing against the rocks is both beautiful and dangerous. Much like the history of San Sebastian and the Basque culture itself; a beautiful, thriving people that stood strong against the assault of those who wished to take everything from them.

Conclusion

If there is anything that I have learned so far on this trip, it is that there is so much left to learn about the world. There are millions of people out there with unique perspectives and ways of life. The best way to understand a person is to understand where they come from and their culture. Taking the time to understand others helps us to learn and grow as human beings and brings people together. You can explore not only what makes us different, but what brings us together. If everyone took the time to get to know others, wouldn’t the world be a much better place?

Have you noticed the Disneylandification of America? Especially in tourist cities or national parks, locations are becoming attractions. I was in Acadia National Park last year, and they handed us a map with numbers and locations, each number a “ride” or a “must see.” Wherever there was a number, there was also a line at least an hour long.
The only thing missing was an app telling you the line length. Our entire time that week was spent trying to get away from the crowds or racing against them.
I’ve been surprised at how San Sebastian isn’t like that. While there are definitely tourist spots, such as the Funicular we went to today, it doesn’t feel like the city is organized to be a theme park: It feels like there’s something new in every corner to try, to see, and to experience.
A lot of amazing places are found by talking to locals or going out and just walking around.
Which is exactly what we did today.

After classes, we went to an empty beach (it was cloudy and cool so no one went out), eating fresh strawberries and chatting, and spent an hour in the waves. The city looked different from the raft on the water, nestled in between the mountains. I can understand why it was so important historically with such a location. While its history is painted with struggle and blood, today, it’s simply paradise.

Later in the day, we went up Monte Igueldo to an amusement park via Fenicular.
We got gelato, rode rides, and enjoyed a gorgeous view of the city.
Usually on trips, I end up doing less to save more. But as most things here are affordable, I got to experience everything along with everyone. To have that ice cream and go on that ride.
The city might not be an amusement park but it definitely does have one.

Then the group descended Monte Igueldo and went to see the Comb of the Wind. Which, besides from having a metal name, is a cool art piece and made of metal. Built at the mouth of the San Sebastian’s Bay and on a backdrop of ocean. We discussed the meaning of these sculptures: I said they point to different directions, someone said they make a shape if you look from the right angle, and Prof said they represent time and balance: Past and future with the present.

Continuing with the theme of exploration, for dinner we biked to Gros. We hadn’t been there yet, and wandered the streets full of bars and restaurants. A nice looking bar’s menu caught our eye, being affordable and with intruiging options.
Going in, we ordered 2 pintxos we knew we’d love, and 2 that were completely new.
Spider crab and Gilda.
What’s a Gilda? None of us knew, but it sounded cool and apparently is a classic.
And it ended up being the highlight of dinner.
Juicy olives, hot peppers, and an anchovy skewered on a slice of crispy baguette.
We took our time eating, talking over drinks and enjoying each other’s company.
We also tried ordering and paying in Spanish.
I’ve been surprised with the friendliness of everyone I’ve talked to. Our waitress knew we barely spoke Spanish but replied in Spanish when we attempted to speak it.
It makes it easier to try new things and attempt to practice Spanish. We’re far away from home, who cares if we get it wrong? If we make fools of ourselves?

In the US, places and nature are often tied to consumerism. A new city isn’t a living place, it’s an attraction with rides. Have you really been to Boston if you haven’t visited The Commons, or walked the Freedom Trail? Or gone to this or seen that? San Sebastian is such a break from the speed at which we live life back home. We’re not here to race and see “attractions.” It being such, it feels like we’re seeing an authentic city. There’s no glamor to hide the ride’s strings, or suffering hidden by sparkling signs. Locals and tourists mix everywhere and it makes for a completely different experience. I feel like our present and our future are balanced as we have so much time to explore and do what we personally want to. Last night we went to the beach and swam at 12am because we could! We have the time and opportunity.
There’s no map to command us on what’s “worth it” to see.

Especially because it’s all worth it to see.

The initial struggle of getting into the routine  

Although many of us had an unprecedented start to our trip — from missing luggages to delayed flights — being in the city of San Sebastián makes it all worth it, and inconveniences become smaller compared to the rich experiences we have had from the moment we arrived. As expected, many of us were dealing with jet lag as we set off on our first day here, and waking up in time for breakfast was slightly challenging. However, once we got to the cafeteria, we excited to try all of the different options of fresh food, including a variety of delicious fruits, breads, and coffee. 

The hidden gem of my daily commute 

Our walk to Lacunza, the place where we would have our spanish classes, was nothing I had ever experienced before. Although we started the day on a time crunch in order to make it to the placement exam, the breathtaking scenery of La Concha beach from the walkway made me feel relaxed, excited, and grateful. Like much of my group, I have fallen into the habit of relying on driving everywhere and was not used the long walks. More often than not, we are focused on the destination and tend to perceive our commutes as an inconvenience. Yet, I am more than happy to be learning how to break this cycle.

This beautiful city then becomes the center of the attention, requiring us to become present. The landscape forces you to ground yourself in the moment, while its natural ambiance reflects a rich and inviting culture. The immensity of the ocean brings peace through the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, contrasting with the beautifully architected buildings which surround it. At the time of our commute, it is serene and not crowded, which is something I will be looking forward to the moment I wake up.

Lacunza

The Spanish school immediately immerses us into the city and makes us feel like locals. We were made to be comfortably uncomfortable outside of our comfort zones, which has resulted in so much learning in just one day. My teacher is incredibly qualified and makes me eager to learn more everyday, which is especially true when we are put into a position where we have to apply our knowledge.

I genuinely could not have learned this much if I did not have this experience, both in spanish and in terms of self-independence.

Parte Vieja

Although we had a full day of activities, we were excited to go out and explore the city with our tour guide Olga. She provided us with much knowledge and great tips about its history and how it connects to its modern life. We walked through many landmarks, much of which displayed physical marks of its past such as the fires which burned down most of the area and its civil war during the Franco years and the more recent conflicts amongst the population. We also got to learn about cultural aspects such as the events that happen throughout the year and the best pintxo spots.

Conclusion

I quickly understood that San Sebastián has a charm of its own, which cannot be compared to any other city, and cannot be fully explained through words as its much of it emerges from the senses the city emerges us in its rich culture, history, and natural beauty. I am excited to see how much I will have learned at the end, although I do not like to think about my days in Donostia coming to an end. I am incredibly grateful for being here and expanding my horizons at such an extraordinary place I get to call home for the next few weeks.