Pintxos in Gros: One Day, Four Stops

The Basque country is full of many surprises, but nothing captures its culture and beauty more than their pintxos (pronounced: “peen-chos”). These bite-sized favorites are as much about community as they are about the food.

First Stop: Bodega Donostiarra

Yesterday afternoon, I crossed the bridge into Gros, a neighborhood of San Sebastian that feels a little less touristy and a lot more local than the Old Town. I got the opportunity to try some incredible local pintxos from the area. Our first stop was Bodega Donostiarra, where I joined some of my other classmates and Prof. Julian Zabalbeascoa (Prof. Z).

I grabbed the infamous Gilda first—it’s this little skewer with olives, anchovy, and peppers, and I didn’t expect it to be a little spicy, but it was actually really good.

In the photo below, you can see the ensaladilla, which used to be known as the ensaladilla rusa, which is a creamy potato salad. I was honestly very surprised by this plate because I have never liked potato salad, but this version was very flavorful and fresh. Next to it—as simple as it gets—is the chorizo, a simple bite-sized Spanish sausage with a smoky flavor.

The first ever pintxo, the Gilda (back). Chorizo (right), and ensaladilla (left).

Interestingly enough, the Basques are known for not using a lot of sauces or spices in their dishes because, as they’ll tell you, they have a fear of food not being fresh—almost as if they’re asking, “What are you trying to hide?”

Next up, we have dados de merluza—tender cubes of hake (a mild white fish)—and guindillas, small green peppers that are sometimes sweet and sometimes pack a bit of a punch. What a random gamble!

One of the last things I tried was the jamón ibérico—acorn-fed Iberian ham, a type of cured ham that my friend Ryan has been wanting to try forever!

Second Stop: Kbzón Haundi

After finishing up at Bodega Donostiarra, we made our way to the second stop—a Cuban-Basque inspired spot with its own personality: Kbzón Haundi.

The food was intriguing, to say the least. There were so many dishes on the menu we wanted to try, whether it was because of the unique name or just plain curiosity, we had to order them—and Prof. Z agreed.

From ravioli de morcilla (blood sausage ravioli) to espárragos con tocino (bacon‑wrapped asparagus) and even fried pig ear, there were so many Cuban‑Basque inspired pintxos on the menu.

I can’t say I loved everything on the menu, but there were definitely a few standouts within the mix! The foie gras, for example, completely surprised me. I was hesitant at first, but it melted in my mouth like butter. And the bacon-wrapped asparagus was another top 10 on my list. Other dishes, like the thinly sliced duck and fried pig ear, just weren’t for me.

Third Stop: La Tortillería

At this point, I was already feeling full, but there was still more for us to see. Up next was La Tortillería, a small walk-in shop that only makes one thing: tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette). You just step inside, order, and they hand it to you fresh—simply layers of eggs and potatoes served with a slice of bread.

Tortilla de Patatas

Oh yes, It was as delicious as it looks—warm, soft layers of eggs and potatoes that practically melted in your mouth. At this point, it was almost 4 p.m., and most kitchens in the area close around that time, so we needed to rush over to our final pintxo-tasting spot: Bergara Bar.

Fourth Stop: Bergara Bar

I’m not so sure Bergara Bar was happy to take on nine people six minutes before their kitchen closed, but we were glad we made it on time—although very full—to try our last pintxos in the Gros area.

Of course, I had to order the croquettes (las croquetas in Spanish), because Bergara Bar is known for them, and when they arrived at the table, I couldn’t believe how massive they were.

The croquettes were amazing! Even better than the ones I tried in Pasaia, with just enough flavor from the ham and béchamel filling.

Croquettes

Final Stop: Papperino

As a reward for our excellent pintxo-tasting skills, Prof. Z took us to Papperino, his favorite gelato spot and the last stop on our tour of the area.

I ordered two flavors on one cone: frambuesa con queso (raspberry with cheese) and pistachio.

Gelato

Now this… this, exceeded my expectations for a first-time gelato experience. As we ate together as a group on Plaza Cataluña, it was the perfect way to end a day full of amazing food, extraordinary Basque culture, and the kind of experiences I’ll remember for the rest of my life.