Final Day In San Sebastian: Picnic and Packup

My final day in San Sebastián was both reflective and bittersweet. The three weeks I had spent there had flown by, and it was hard to believe I was already saying goodbye to the city and the country of Spain. Throughout the day, I found myself looking back on my experiences and feeling eager to bring home the new knowledge and perspective I had gained.

After our last class at Lacunzá, the Spanish school where we had been studying, our group gathered on Zurriola Beach for a picnic. Professor Zabalbeascoa brought delicious Basque food from Adamo Beach Bar, including my favorite, the Spanish potato tortilla. As we ate, we chatted about our experiences over the course of the trip, any other destinations we had visited, and the memories we would carry with us long after we left. I am glad we were able to come together to share our adventures to formally finish our time here in this beautiful city. While it’s difficult to sum up my time on this trip in words, I would describe it as both refreshing and eye-opening. It provided a much-needed break from life back home while also teaching me a great deal about the world and myself.

After the picnic, I biked to La Concha, San Sebastián’s most popular beach, without needing my phone for directions. After three weeks in a place that had initially swallowed me whole, I felt like I knew the city like the back of my hand. I could navigate from one end to the other and felt the city was just the right size. La Concha was packed by the time I arrived, as it usually is in the afternoon. As I lay in the sun, a sense of relaxation washed over me. There were no more activities to rush through, and I could spend the rest of the day living like an unbothered local. Of course, that started with the classic Spanish siesta that I took as soon as I got back to the residence. This daily afternoon nap-time reflects the calm and relaxed lifestyles of the Basque people, juxtaposing the hectic pace of life at home. Throughout the course of my time in San Sebastián, I constantly found myself comparing culture and lifestyle in Spain to that of the US, allowing me to understand the world on a global level, instead of just from an American perspective. Such a realization again came when playing a game of pickup basketball before dinner with some locals. As I continued to notice their teamwork-based play style, unlike my relatively iso-focused style, I could see how it paralleled the differing cultural and societal beliefs held by each country, Spain being much more community-centered and the United States more individualistic. These realizations and comparisons stood out to me because of how rich the Basque region is in its own culture. In a sense, it has not been westernized like some of the other parts of the world. Sure, San Sebastián is a relatively contemporary city, but its modernity does not overshadow its Basque identity.

After doing laundry and packing, I still needed dinner, so I decided to go to the nearest pizza place in front of the residence. Ironically, it was called “American Pizza Lovers,” and I felt like the perfect judge to critique how authentically American it really was. I ended up finishing the entire medium pizza and left wishing this place could replace many of the pizza joints back home. From the beginning of the trip, it was obvious how high the bar was for food in San Sebastian, and it stayed that way every time I went out to eat. You could really taste the freshness in the ingredients, a rare occurrence in the US. After dinner, I decided to take a late-night walk on the beach to conclude my experience in the city. Watching the waves splash over my feet under the full moon, which cast an almost magical glow over the city, I found myself entranced by the scenery.

La Concha at night

With few people around, I was able to relax, listen to the sounds of the ocean, and reflect on my experiences from the past three weeks. When I realized I should get to bed because of our early morning bus, I found myself longing for more time on the cool sand. As I biked through the city for the last time, I soaked in every sight, sound, and scent. In these last few moments, it became clear to me that I would have to return to San Sebastián someday in the future. 

Siestas, Sea Life, and Santa Clara

When I came to San Sebastian, I had no idea what to expect. I hadn’t even heard of it before seeing it as an option for a study abroad trip. This is the exact reason I chose this trip: to explore who I am when I’m in a new place where I don’t know the language or the people. I needed to force myself to be uncomfortable to grow. So, I boarded that airplane with an open mind, ready to take on the unknown.

Now that I’ve been here for almost 3 weeks I feel as if I’m finally getting the hang of it. I finally know my way around town, I have my favorite food spots, my favorite spot on the beach, and my everyday seat in class. In becoming familiar with the unknown I had to become accustomed to the way of life here in San Sebastián. The Basque Country has a slow way of life compared to what I’m used to. Back home I get out of bed and from there, I’m doing the next thing then the next thing until I’m back in bed at night. But, in San Sebastian, they prioritize the quality of life. When first learning about the idea of siesta, I was in utter shock. “ What do you mean you get the middle of the day to relax and reset?”. This idea was almost foreign to me as I have lived in a city my entire life. As I started partaking in Siesta by taking a nap after class, I felt as if my mind was able to reset and I could enjoy things I don’t usually make time for.

With this in mind, I decided to visit the aquarium today. Marine life has always been a huge interest of mine so I’ve been to aquariums in almost every place I’ve visited. But the aquarium in the Basque Country is different from the ones back home. Firstly the aquarium here starts with the history of Basque fishing and whaling. The second difference was the auditorium. At home when there’s an auditorium in the aquarium it is usually used for shows and entertainment. But this auditorium was just a seating area facing a huge tank. In this tank, they had all sorts of fish that you could just sit there and watch. So I sat there for around 30 minutes just watching the fish go about their lives. At the aquarium in the US, there aren’t many seating options where you can just sit back and enjoy the fish. But I noticed here seating was at almost every tank. I loved this element because I felt as if I could watch the fish for days. This just goes to show how the Basque people are really about enjoying life as it is. The peace I feel in San Sebastian is a peace that I haven’t been able to feel in a long time. I don’t think I’ve ever been in love with the place more.

Aquarium Donostia- San Sebastian

The aquarium is right by a port on the coast. Which was perfect because today we were going to Santa Clara Island.

My classmates and I on the boat to Santa Clara Island.

Once we met with the group, we got on the boat and sadly, the hidden beach that I was most excited for was not out today. But that didn’t stop people from enjoying the warm blue waters. Once we arrived we found a comfortable spot with a view for today’s lecture. Professor Z revealed to us some more examples of how life here is enjoyed. For instance, the tax rate in the Basque Country is a lot more than it is anywhere else in Spain. The people don’t mind paying this price because they feel as if they are seeing where their tax dollars are being used. We also discussed how different the rehabilitation for incarceration is in the Basque Country. When convicted you are placed in prison closest to where you reside. This is so that family and friends can easily visit you and you can be rehabilitated in a community where you are familiar. The rate of returning to prison is way lower than the 67% that it is in the United States. It seems as if in the United States they keep people in prison to profit financially, but in the Basque Country, they prioritize the person once again. This was the same for the ETAgroup when they were imprisoned in the Basque Country. As discussed in the novel “All that Followed” by Gabriel Urza. When members were incarcerated they were placed in prisons together. But in this case, it became harder for them to rehabilitate due to like-mindedness. Following this, the members of ETA were separated into prisons across Spain, France, and the islands. Which did make it harder for families and friends to visit but it was better for their individual growth.

Santa Clara Island

The Basque people are a lot of things but one thing they will always have is pride. Pride in their language, pride in their people, pride in their culture, pride in their rights, and pride and what’s right. Because of this, locals were protesting against ETA countless times. It’s interesting because you can still see displays showing where people stand on issues all over the Basque Country today. For example, I’ve seen Palestinian flags all over town and in restaurants. I’ve seen posters discussing what’s going on in Gaza and people overall expressing their stance on it. I haven’t seen this much talk about what’s going on in Palestine in my city so I was relieved to see the awareness. San Sebastian has all the elements that make a perfect place and it will always hold a special place in my heart.

Palestinian Flags captured on the walk to the aquarium

Spain: A Contrast of Two Cultures

This blog post is about my experience on the second free weekend in San Sebastián. More specifically, it will focus on the cities of Bilbao and Pamplona which are great focal points for a greater analysis on Spanish culture as a whole. 

Bilbao was the first city my friend and I visited. Bilbao is known for being an industrial city and the largest population center in the Basque Country. The city has a beautiful football stadium, modern high rise buildings, and a surprisingly punctual tram system. Beside the stadium, the other major attraction in the city is the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao which houses modern and contemporary art. My time in Bilbao largely hinged on this museum. The museum is sleek, modern, and distinctive. Outside is a large dog made of flowers affectionately called “Puppy”. The other landmark outside is a giant steel spider called “Maman”. These sculptures are on every souvenir magnet in Bilbao, so they are considered essential parts of the city. The interior features art that is unquestionably… abstract. It seemed the more I looked at each painting, the more puzzled I became at its message. I noticed random brushwork, paint splotches, and non-geometrical shapes. Upon some further thought, I came to the conclusion that there is no singular message. That is what I see in Postmodern Art, it means something else to each person who views the artpiece. Postmodern art at its core embraces a sense of curiosity and discussion. I see it as an embrace of pluralism, diversity, and identity. 

The following day I visited Pamplona. Pamplona is a city in the interior of Spain, and the capital of Navarre. The city has deep roots in relation to bullfighting. Every July, the Festivities of San Fermin commence which includes the Running of the Bulls. The path the bulls take ends in the Plaza de Toros, which is a bullfighting arena near the center of the city. The arena, which seats around 20,000 people, is where the matador fights and kills the bull. The matador is the highest ranked bullfighter who usually faces the bull individually at the last stage of the bullfight. They wear a richly embroidered suit called the “Traje de Luces”. They also have a “Capote” which is a medium sized cape and a “Muleta” which is a smaller cape that is used when killing the bull. Bullfighting is a controversial practice that has a long history in Iberia going back hundreds of years. Even with significant controversy, it remains deeply entrenched in Spanish culture to this day and remains a polarizing topic in Spanish politics. As an outsider, I have several moral objections about this practice. I sympathize with the bull because it is subjected to pain and suffering throughout the whole experience. Furthermore, being an animal, it does not understand what is going on, likely making the situation even more traumatic for it. I don’t think bullfighting should be glorified in any way, especially given the bloody nature of the event. Many people in Spain seem to echo that stance. When I asked the lady at the ticket booth on her opinion about the bullfight and the culture, she responded that she was deeply conflicted about the event. Studies show that support for bullfighting in Spain is lower than ever with only 7% of younger adults supporting the practice, and it will likely continue lowering in the future. Unfortunately, in 2013, the event became a cultural heritage of Spain, and thus, became enshrined into Spanish law. Unfortunately, that will limit any attempt to completely ban the practice in the near future. 

I couldn’t help but notice a conflict in Spain between its past and its future. These two cities (Bilbao and Pamplona) reflect two greater clashes in Spanish culture between the old and the new. The museum of Modern Art is exemplary of progressive ideas and policy in Spain. Its non-linear architecture is meant to challenge the status quo. Its abstract paintings are meant to challenge the conventional norms of art. It’s truly remarkable that Spain in many ways is leading Europe when it comes to green energy, climate friendly policies, and urban infrastructure. However, it is also held back by the Catholic Church and sexism, which remains a persistent problem in Spanish culture. Bullfighting as a whole is deeply intertwined with machismo culture, a deeply conservative cultural tradition of extreme male masculinity. Even today, gender based violence remains high in Spain and is a deeply troubling problem, especially in more rural localities where there is higher isolation from infrastructure such as police and social workers. Spain is a country of contrasts. As a tourist, it feels unrivaled when you account for its gastronomy, nature, rich cities, and friendly people. But even in the most idyllic places, there are issues that may not necessarily be visible on the surface. I think that giving some nuance will help better contextualize Spain’s society and culture as a whole. 

Mount Urgull: Home of The Second ‘Christ the Redeemer’

Ryan Leger August 4 2025

San Sebastián is home to many different points of interest, consisting of the old part of the city, La Concha beach, the Monte Igueldo amusement park, and many other notable places. However, when walking through the city, day or night, there is one specific point of interest that is nearly impossible to miss when touring the city; El Sagrado Corazón. This 12 meter (39 feet) tall statue of Jesus is located at the peak of Monte Igueldo, with an unpredictable history behind it.

8:30AM

The day of the hike started like every other Monday since I arrived in San Sebastián, now a little over two weeks now. I woke up, and got ready for my Spanish class at Lacunza language school near old town. I got breakfast, packed some sandwiches that I snagged from the dining hall in the Olarain hotel, and made my way to class via bicycle.

1:00PM

This was our first week using the regular schedule, which meant that I got out class at 1PM. Some days if the weather is nice enough, I go straight to the beach after class, which was the case for today. I spent around an hour on the beach before going back to my room at the hotel and taking a siesta before the hike.

5:00PM
We met for the hike at the bottom of the mountain which is right off the coast of the beach, about a twenty minute bike ride from the hotel. Before we started the hike, Julian showed us a Gastronómica society (Aizepe Elkartea) and explained its relevance to Basque culture. These societies across the Basque country are meant to serve as a meeting place for men to cook food for each other, but recently women are allowed to participate in these communities. About a sixty second walk away from Aizepe Elkartea was a Michelin starred restaurant, with the hefty price of 170 euros for a 5 course meal, not even including drinks. I would love to eat at a Michelin starred restaurant, as I love and appreciate the art of cooking, but after spending the last two weeks spending all my money trying to survive in San Sebastián, I knew I would be better off getting a kebab after the hike

5:20PM
We started the hike with a pretty steep incline, but it was nothing compared to the first hike we did as a group to San Juan, which took all of my energy (and water) out of my body that day, and the day after. The first ten minutes consisted of climbing stone stairs with beautiful views of La Concha and Santa Clara island. The color of the water in San Sebastián is the most breathtaking, beautiful, colorful water I have ever seen in my nineteen years on this earth. I have been here a little over two weeks now, and I still cannot get over how ridiculously beautiful the ocean is here. It has always been my dream to see turquoise water, like how it looks in tropical movies, and now I finally get to live my dream.

6:00PM
We were finally approaching the summit of the mountain after around thirty minutes of hiking up and taking breaks. Along the way, there was a bar with a scenic view of the ocean and the beach, with almost every person sitting down smoking their own cigarette. The bar didn’t have food at the time, as I made sure, because I unfortunately did not eat much before the hike.

A little bit past the hike was the beginning of La Mota Castillo, a 12th century fortress estimated to have begun construction in 1194, almost a thousand years ago! The fortress was strategically placed on the top of Monte Urgull because of its high elevation and ocean access. It remained occupied until the 19th century, after being passed through several monarchs. It is here at the top of La Mota Castillo where the second “Christ the Redeemer” is located. This statue dedicated to Jesus Christ is called “Sagrado Corazón”, which means “the sacred heart”, and it was built and completed in 1950. This forty foot statue of Jesus is maybe, if not the most recognizable landmark in San Sebastián. It is easily seen from anywhere on La Concha, and from most mountain tops in the region. It was definitely one of the first things that I took note of when I had first explored the city.

8:30PM
After discussing the political history of the Basque region, we concluded the hike after around two hours of exploring the top of the mountain. I am very grateful that I was able to see this marvel of construction in San Sebastián, with many beautiful views that I will never forget. And what better way to end the day with watching the sunset on the beach, eating a durum kebab, with a Kalimotxo.

Free Weekend: Trip to Bordeaux and Paris

Introduction

Living and learning in San Sebastián, Spain has been everything I imagined and more. From the gorgeous coastline to the delicious pinchos I don’t think I will ever want to leave.  However, during our four day free weekend, I decided to travel into France with three other friends from UML. Me, Kate, Adam, and Ryan left Wednesday afternoon immediately after class to catch a bus to Bordeaux. As we learned, you should definitely double check the location of the bus stop – we ended up 10 minutes away from the right location 5 minutes before the bus was scheduled to leave. We hurried to the correct bus station as our bus was driving away, and thankfully made it onto the bus.

Thursday

I spent my first day of the free weekend in Bordeaux. We had arrived to our airbnb the previous night, so we woke up near the city’s center ready to start the day. We began our day at a cafe where we ordered crepes and croissants, and left from there to explore the city.

Street in Bordeaux

After a few hours of wandering and shopping, we stopped at a grocery store to buy ingredients to make our own dinner. We ended making spaghetti and meatballs with garlic bread made from focaccia. Afterwards, we took another walk around the city and the headed back to get rest before the long day ahead of us on Friday.

Spaghetti with Meatballs and Garlic Bread

Friday

Friday felt like the longest day yet on this trip. We got onto the bus for Paris at 2:10am and didn’t arrive until 9:00am. Thankfully I was able to sleep through the bus ride so I was well rested for the day ahead. When we arrived at the bus station, we found our way to the metro and took the train to Trocadero Station, which has amazing views of the Eiffel Tower. From there we made our way toward the base of the tower to see how long the line would be to go up to the top floor. Thankfully the line was not long, so we walked up to the second floor and then took the elevator to the top. On the top floor we briefly met up with Micheal, another UML student.

Kate and I in front of the Eiffel Tower
View from the Eiffel Tower

After soaking in the gorgeous views from the tower, we made our way toward Nötre Dame. Outside of Nötre Dame there was a large line to get in, but thankfully it moved quickly. The architecture was absolutely stunning, and the attention to details inside and out was incredible. One of my favorite parts was the stained glass windows on the inside. Before our next stop we took a break for lunch at a nice restaurant nearby. Once we finished there we made our way to check out the Louvre from the outside because we did not purchase tickets ahead of time. While I know I would have enjoyed going in, even just seeing the building from the outside was worth the walk.

Louvre

For dinner, we headed back toward the Eiffel Tower and grabbed sandwiches from a nearby shop and macaroons from a bakery. We then had a quick picnic with beautiful views of the city before we went to catch our bus back to Bordeaux.

Adam holding our macaroons

Saturday

We took Saturday at a much slower pace than Friday, and took our time exploring more of Bordeaux. For breakfast we ate at Café Eriu, where I had some of the best pancakes of my life. Both Ryan and I had them, and we both agree that they were absolutely phenomenal. After our breakfast, we spend the remainder of the day popping in and out of local shops before we caught our bus back to San Sebastián.

Pancakes from Cafe Eriu

Sunday

On Sunday morning after I got breakfast at the hotel I went into the garage to get my bike where I was greeted with a flat tire. I had planned on shopping in the city before heading to the beach, but those plans changed when I realized I would have to walk 40 minutes towards where I would shop. Instead, I went to the beach where I later met up with other students from UML. The weather was perfect, and the water was warm but still refreshing. I went in the water with Piper and Adam and we swam far out toward a dock only to turn around when we were told of a Portuguese Man of War jellyfish nearby. On the swim back to shore, we swam through a lot of baby Man of War jellyfish. Soon after we got out of the water, we saw many more on the shore line that were being collected by kids. Later, we ended up getting dinner at a burger place and then heading back to change and return to the beach to watch the sunset. 

Adventures in Spain with my best friend

Spontaneous adventure and travel fuels my soul, and l believe I inherited this trait from my father.

When I spread the news to him that I would have several free weekends, he had already booked his flight. We have traveled together various places, but never in a foreign country. It didn’t take long for us to realize Spain was going to be the perfect place to explore together—and his rental car was the key.

He arrived on Thursday, and before he went to bed early, we walked to Parte de Vieja from his hotel along La Concha beach. We bumped into Julian around this time, who was able to give more suggestions as to what we should do during our time together! We wandered to the San Telmo Museum, and ended up hiking the mountain nestled above it. This was one of my father’s first big views of the city, and with first glance, it was obvious to me he would come to deeply appreciate and adore the city I have been living in.

View of La Concha from San Telmo

Friday: Pasaia and Hondarribia

With session 1 and 2, we had hiked from San Sebastián to Pasaia, where we then toured the Albeola museum. I told my father about this, and he wanted to check it out, so we drove to Pasaia to see the San Juan being built. I enjoyed this museum more the second time, as I was able to fully appreciate the process, without being exhausted from a long hike. I also enjoyed sharing the information with my father from the guided tour we had previously. It is still hard to wrap my head around the fact that they have been building a replica of a boat that sunk hundreds of years ago for over 10 years!

We drove to Hondarribia next, which is known as a big fishing neighborhood, and came across a music festival. We both believed it was a big planned event that we had walked into, but this was not the case. Big Get togethers throughout the entire town were not rare; friends and family gathered together on a weekly basis to enjoy food, drinks, and music.

Friday night gathering in Hondarribia

From here, we made our way to one of my favorite places in Spain: The old quarter in Hondarribia. The entire old town is contained by a 15th century wall, and to enter through the Santa Maria gate, you have to walk across a drawbridge. It felt as if we were entering a medieval town, and the cobblestone streets and high masonry walls enforced this. We were very hungry around this time, and found a small restaurant hidden along the gothic streets. I tried Iberian ham for the first time here, and my father experimented with pig jowls (pig cheek).

Medieval architecture within the Old town

Saturday: Pamplona and Gorriti

Around midday on Saturday, we started our journey to Pamplona. Before our hour long drive, we stopped at one of my favorite cafes for breakfast: BB Kafé. We got an açaí bowl, breakfast sandwich, and the best cappuccinos we have ever had. The drive went by fast, due to how scenic it was as we passed through the Arelar Mountain ranges. Our first stop in Pamplona was a must— Plaza de toros, also known as the bull fighting stadium. They were open for tours, so we made our way through the different parts of the stadium until finally ending in the center, where the bulls fight.

We then thought it was necessary to walk the same path of the running of the bulls, so we walked to the beginning of the historic street—Calle de Santo Domingo. We noticed quickly how the town prepared for the yearly event, with slots in the ground for where fences would be placed.

On the way back to San Sebastián, we were drawn to a small town that had the greenest of fields and so many animals. We decided to drive in, and realized fast we had entered a human settlement called Gorriti. It looked small, yet extremely self sufficient, and after some research, I found that it had a population of only 84 people! This was a shock to both of us, but it was also intriguing to see other ways of living outside the borders of San Sebastián.

Sunday: Getaria and Zarautz

On our last today together, we started off by visiting Getaria, which is a town over from Zarautz. On a whim, we decided it might be exciting to visit the Balenciaga museum. After all, we were in the birthplace of Cristóbal Balenciaga, who is recognized worldwide as a fashion designer. The museum had several exhibits open, each displaying different collections of his important creations. My favorite exhibit displayed sketchbooks, magazines, and tools used and created by Cristóbal himself.

Fashion pieces from Balenciaga

We drove to Zarautz after this, and I was immediately in awe at the sight of the beach. The waves were big, and the beach spanned the entire coast. It was obvious why surfers love this beach, and why this beach specifically is a must go-to for ocean lovers. We didn’t end up swimming due to the cold breeze, but ate gelato while watching the talented surfers.

It was still early in the day by the time we left Zarautz, so we decided to head back to San Sebastián and see what the aquarium had to offer. It was different than all other aquariums I had been to, as it was very focused on the historical past of fishing, whaling, and sailing in San Sebastián. We slowly made our way through the exhibits, and I was so excited when we reached the main attraction—the ocean tank. It had two tiger sharks, eels, large fish, and a variety of other animals. My favorite part was the clear walkway built into the tank, so it felt as if we were right next to the animals.

My father brought me to my hotel, and it was time to say goodbye, as he would be flying home the next morning. Although I was sad he was leaving, I was so lucky to be able to spend time with him in a place that has become so special to me.

I will never forget the moments he shared with me here, as well as the moments I experienced alone. San Sebastián has become a place that feels homely, while also containing so much unexplored culture and beauty.

A Wild Weekend in San Sebastián: Sunrises, Surprises, and Stories I’ll Never Forget 

If you had told me I’d stay up for nearly 28 hours straight, hike a mountain before breakfast, cross into France for gelato, and somehow manage to do most of it all again the next day, I might’ve laughed. But that’s exactly what happened during one unforgettable weekend in San Sebastián, Spain—an experience that felt more like a dream than real life.

It all began on a Friday that didn’t quite go to plan. After a long Thursday night, I accidentally passed out around 6:00 AM and didn’t wake up until 8:00 PM. Waking up and wasting the entire day wasn’t exactly my plan, but with a full night’s rest behind me, I figured, why not stay up until sunrise? San Sebastián is famous for its coastal beauty, and what better way to experience it than from the top of a mountain?

Around 1:00 AM, I grabbed my bike and cruised along the serene, moonlit path by the beach. The usually bustling street was quiet and peaceful, lit only by streetlamps and the glimmer of hotel lights. I rode past the historic buildings of Old Town in search of a grocery store that was still open—and somehow lucked out. My “meal” for the night? A classic baguette and two orange Fantas. Not exactly gourmet, but it would do the job.

At 5:45 AM, with a sky just beginning to turn from deep navy to soft purple, I started the hike up Mount Igueldo. The climb was tough going up steep train tracks but exhilarating in the quiet pre-dawn air. When I reached the top, I found a perfect spot facing northeast, the direction where the sun would rise—around 66 degrees, to be exact. What followed was one of the most stunning sunrises I’ve ever witnessed. The way the sun lit up the coastline, casting golden hues across the sea and the city below, was absolutely unforgettable.

After descending the mountain and grabbing some breakfast, I met up with my classmates Ryan, Kate, Adam, and Lexi. We had planned a quick day trip to Biarritz, France, just a 30 minute bus ride across the border. The drive was scenic, and after an hour-long walk from the station through charming French streets, we reached the coast.

In Biarritz, we started our day with food (as one should), then wandered into a few souvenir shops. The weather was perfect, and I ended up relaxing on the beach, soaking up the sun for about an hour. Eventually, we walked across a picturesque bridge that led to a statue perched on a rocky outcrop in the sea. The view was striking—the kind that makes you just stand still for a moment and take it all in.

Of course, no day in a French beach town is complete without gelato… or in my case, 8 scoops of it, apparently. By the end of the day, we were buzzing from sugar and sunshine, and spent our final hour in Biarritz browsing the elegant shops in the city’s shopping district while waiting for a rooftop restaurant to open.

Dinner was as delicious as it was scenic. The rooftop terrace gave us panoramic views of the town as the sun began to set. Yes, it was a bit pricier than our usual spots, but every bite and every moment felt worth it. Afterward, we caught the 10:00 PM bus back to San Sebastián, and I finally crashed after being awake for 28 hours straight.

But the weekend wasn’t over.

After a solid rest, I met up with Bastiaan, a Dutch friend I had gotten close to in my Lacunza Spanish class. We decided to spend the day with a couple Polish students from the same program. The plan? Keep it spontaneous and go where the day took us. We ended up playing games on the beach, laughing the entire time, and riding roller coasters at the Mount Igueldo amusement park—yes, the same mountain I had watched the sunrise from the morning before.

As night fell, the idea came up to catch another sunrise—this time from a different mountain. I didn’t even hesitate. Despite the sleep deprivation, I stayed up again until 7:00 AM, chasing that golden light with new friends and a full heart. The view from this second vantage point was just as breathtaking, but what made it even more special was the feeling of spontaneity and shared joy.

Looking back, this weekend feels like a blur of movement, laughter, and awe. It’s hard to believe how much happened in such a short time—how many places I saw, how many memories I made, and how deeply I felt connected to this place and the people around me. San Sebastián isn’t just a beautiful city on the coast of Spain; for me, it’s where ordinary weekends turn into lifelong stories and where I can really say yes to getting out of my comfort zone, because I’m only ever here, and this young once, might as well make the most of it.

And if you think that sounded fun, this was just three days out of twenty-seven.

San Sebastián: Pintxos In Old Town

Introduction

It is amazing living here in San Sebastián, the entire city is very beautiful with amazing beaches. But one the best parts of San Sebastian is the food. Up until this point I didn’t know any of the good bars to go to eat and especially any where that had Basque food. That all changed today. Half of Session 2 went on Wednesday to the Old Town part of San Sebastian to go to several different Pintxos bars. Pintxo bars are an iconic food that is unique to San Sebastián. Here Pintxos are not only food, but part of their culture. Pintxos originated in the early 20th century as small snacks, originally held together with toothpicks, and usually accompanied with some sort of alcohol. Over time Pintxos have evolved into a diverse type of food that are unique to each Pintxo bar.

The Tour

The first Pincho bar we went to was called Haiza Bar which is located just outside Old Town. Professor Zabalbeascoa had already gotten us reservations and by the time we arrived he had already ordered us two different types of Pintxos. The first was one of the oldest, and possibly the first Pintxo ever created called the Gilda. This was on a toothpick and had an olive, anchovy, and several green peppers. This Pintxo was a cold Pintxos and was very vinegary wich likely came from the combination of the salt from the anchovy, olive, and the sauce that was on it.

The second one was called the Brick de Bacalao. The closest to something I have had that is similar to this in the US is a Crab Ran Goon. The plate was dribbled with balsamic vinegar and the outside was wrapped in a phyllo pastry with the wafer also raping the outside like ribbon on a present. Inside was salted cod. The salted cod has had a huge impact on the history of the Basque region as a whole. They were the first to be able to dry and salt cod with them later re hydrating it on ships, allowing food to be preserved for along time. This allowed them to go for longer sailing trips allowing them to easily travel to North America to hunt wales for there oil. This in turn allowed them to be the first region to regularly travel the Atlantic. 

The second Pintxo bar was called Bar Borja Berri. Inside it was very busy with people squeezed up against each other and the waiter yelling out orders to the kitchen with the chefs somehow being able to hear it over all the noise. We had several different Pintxos here, the first one being pork rib, located in the upper left and bottom middle, the meat was very tender, the seasoning was very good and the sear was nice as well. Had a similar flavor to the pork ear, which is located in the middle left. It was very crispy and also was very tender. The most tender of all was the beef cheek located in the upper right and bottom right. It is probably the most tender meat I’ve ever had and the most flavorful as well. On the bottom left is seasoned steak that was a little undercooked in the middle but still really good. I don’t know what was in any of the seasonings, but they were all very good. In the middle there were scallops that were cooked really well and tasted much fresher than in the US. It’s is likely due to the fact that there is an underground supermarket just outside of Old Town that gets fresh seafood every day. My favorite was the pasta, located in the middle right that had three cheeses that are all made the Basque region. It was very creamy and a little soup like.

Next we went to Paco Bueno with another one of the oldest Pintxo bar in the city, apparently it has some of the greatest Pintxos, but the bar was closing when we got there due to siesta. We did get fried calamari which were a little soggy but otherwise tasted pretty good. It did have a similar texture of onion rings.

Then we wandered around old town finding bar after bar was closing due to siesta. We did go to Plaza de la Constitucion wich is where there used to be bull fighting. Eventually we went to Bar Martinez which got a Michelin star in 2018. The architecture in the inside made it feel like it was a more modern Pincho bar. We first got zamburiña which are scallops on clamshells with calamari which is located on the top. In my opinion the scallops from Bar Borja Berri were much better these but they made up for it with caviar and the paste underneath. The other two plates were Bacalao wich was pretty good with onions and peppers though it was a bit sour tasting.

We also got octopus and potatoes that were covered in paprika. I had never eaten octopus in my life, always regarding the animal as very intelligent and not worth eating. The texture was a little tough but the paprika masked the flavor. I would have liked less seasoning so that I could know what octopuses actually tasted like, but it was good overall.

The last Pintxo that we had was pickled pepper stuffed with tuna on bread. For some reason, even though it is Professor Zabalbeascoa’s favorite, only two people tried it while the rest of us didn’t even attempt to take a bite. This is odd considering everyone had tried everything else, allergy depending, but no one wanted to try it. It still looked good but it felt weird that no one was eating it.

The last place we stopped at was Bar La Vida Restaurante, wich is the place where San Sebastian’s famous burnt cheesecake was invented. The owner, who with friends with Professor Zabalbeascoa, was a very nice man and seemed very happy. The Cheesecake itself was pretty good and was very creamy and gooey, but didn’t have a lot of flavor. But considering that this was my first time having cheesecake I assume this is normal since this cheesecake is so well known.

Conclusion

Overall this was a great experience, getting to see the culture and taste some of San Sebastian’s most famous foods. I’m glad to have the opportunity to try multiple ingredients that I have never had before and would not have had if I had not gone to San Sebastian in the first place. I can’t wait to see what foods I discover next and I’m planning on going back to Old Town to eat some more Pintxos.

Pintxos in Gros: One Day, Four Stops

The Basque country is full of many surprises, but nothing captures its culture and beauty more than their pintxos (pronounced: “peen-chos”). These bite-sized favorites are as much about community as they are about the food.

First Stop: Bodega Donostiarra

Yesterday afternoon, I crossed the bridge into Gros, a neighborhood of San Sebastian that feels a little less touristy and a lot more local than the Old Town. I got the opportunity to try some incredible local pintxos from the area. Our first stop was Bodega Donostiarra, where I joined some of my other classmates and Prof. Julian Zabalbeascoa (Prof. Z).

I grabbed the infamous Gilda first—it’s this little skewer with olives, anchovy, and peppers, and I didn’t expect it to be a little spicy, but it was actually really good.

In the photo below, you can see the ensaladilla, which used to be known as the ensaladilla rusa, which is a creamy potato salad. I was honestly very surprised by this plate because I have never liked potato salad, but this version was very flavorful and fresh. Next to it—as simple as it gets—is the chorizo, a simple bite-sized Spanish sausage with a smoky flavor.

The first ever pintxo, the Gilda (back). Chorizo (right), and ensaladilla (left).

Interestingly enough, the Basques are known for not using a lot of sauces or spices in their dishes because, as they’ll tell you, they have a fear of food not being fresh—almost as if they’re asking, “What are you trying to hide?”

Next up, we have dados de merluza—tender cubes of hake (a mild white fish)—and guindillas, small green peppers that are sometimes sweet and sometimes pack a bit of a punch. What a random gamble!

One of the last things I tried was the jamón ibérico—acorn-fed Iberian ham, a type of cured ham that my friend Ryan has been wanting to try forever!

Second Stop: Kbzón Haundi

After finishing up at Bodega Donostiarra, we made our way to the second stop—a Cuban-Basque inspired spot with its own personality: Kbzón Haundi.

The food was intriguing, to say the least. There were so many dishes on the menu we wanted to try, whether it was because of the unique name or just plain curiosity, we had to order them—and Prof. Z agreed.

From ravioli de morcilla (blood sausage ravioli) to espárragos con tocino (bacon‑wrapped asparagus) and even fried pig ear, there were so many Cuban‑Basque inspired pintxos on the menu.

I can’t say I loved everything on the menu, but there were definitely a few standouts within the mix! The foie gras, for example, completely surprised me. I was hesitant at first, but it melted in my mouth like butter. And the bacon-wrapped asparagus was another top 10 on my list. Other dishes, like the thinly sliced duck and fried pig ear, just weren’t for me.

Third Stop: La Tortillería

At this point, I was already feeling full, but there was still more for us to see. Up next was La Tortillería, a small walk-in shop that only makes one thing: tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette). You just step inside, order, and they hand it to you fresh—simply layers of eggs and potatoes served with a slice of bread.

Tortilla de Patatas

Oh yes, It was as delicious as it looks—warm, soft layers of eggs and potatoes that practically melted in your mouth. At this point, it was almost 4 p.m., and most kitchens in the area close around that time, so we needed to rush over to our final pintxo-tasting spot: Bergara Bar.

Fourth Stop: Bergara Bar

I’m not so sure Bergara Bar was happy to take on nine people six minutes before their kitchen closed, but we were glad we made it on time—although very full—to try our last pintxos in the Gros area.

Of course, I had to order the croquettes (las croquetas in Spanish), because Bergara Bar is known for them, and when they arrived at the table, I couldn’t believe how massive they were.

The croquettes were amazing! Even better than the ones I tried in Pasaia, with just enough flavor from the ham and béchamel filling.

Croquettes

Final Stop: Papperino

As a reward for our excellent pintxo-tasting skills, Prof. Z took us to Papperino, his favorite gelato spot and the last stop on our tour of the area.

I ordered two flavors on one cone: frambuesa con queso (raspberry with cheese) and pistachio.

Gelato

Now this… this, exceeded my expectations for a first-time gelato experience. As we ate together as a group on Plaza Cataluña, it was the perfect way to end a day full of amazing food, extraordinary Basque culture, and the kind of experiences I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

San Sebastian: Combs of the Wind

Beginning

I have been in San Sebastian for over a week now and everyday it has gotten better. Each day here their is something new to see and I continue having new experiences where I am creating everlasting memories. This city continues to get more and more beautiful every time, if that is even possible. Everyday I start my day by biking along the beach, which is quite beautiful to see. Overall, so far San Sebastian has been beautiful and I can not wait to see what else it has to offer.

Mount Igueldo

We started off our trip for the day by meeting by the beach before heading over to Mount Igueldo. Starting off with this view was beautiful and is something all of us continue to admire. Mount Igueldo is beautiful and has a lot to offer. It’s main attraction is a rollercoaster which is 100 years old. This rollercoaster is hand operated and gives you a great view. Going in we were all a little scared to ride a rollercoaster that was so old, but this was a great experience. The rollercoaster itself was something I really enjoyed as well as the view you got to see along with it. This park had many other rides to ride as well.

To get up to Mount Igueldo you have to take a funicular ride to the top. There is still plenty to walk around on Mount Igueldo. Walking around it has a beautiful view with a lot to see, every corner you went you would see someone taking a picture which just shows you have beautiful this attraction really is. It has an amazing view, many attractions/rides, food, and many other things to see. On the top they also have a little, cute souvenir store which a few of us stopped in and bought stuff from.

The food was also great. They had your average concession stands that had popcorn, soda, cotton candy, etc. But they also had more unique and hand made food as well. I ended up getting churros and a fruit tart, which were both amazing.

fruit tart

Combs of the Wind

After leaving Mount Igueldo, we headed over to see Combs of the Wind, which is located right on the beach. So this walk consisted of us all walking along the beach and admiring it. This was not a long walk but there was so much to see on this walk.

The Combs of the Wind have a lot of history with them that we learned. There are three sculptures that are located at the end of La Concha Beach. All three of these sculptures are in different locations but close together and are all slightly different. These sculptures are positioned in this way for many certain reasons. They are where the city ends and the water begins. Walking to the Combs of the Wind it is very common to get splashed by a wave. There are 3 cement blocks on the ground that represent these sculptures. When stepped on and off is what causes water and waves to surface.

All of these sculptures can represent many things. One big thing we talked about is how these three sculptures can represent the past, future, and the present. The statue in the back would represent the past because you can not get to it on land meaning you can not touch it. Which is what the past is, you can not go back in time or change anything. The only one of land and you can touch would represent the present. Since this in ongoing and you are in the moment. The sculpture to the side, kind of in eye’s view but you can not quite get to would be the future. Since the future, especially for college students is something we constantly think about. But this is also something we can not physically touch it is something you just have to wait for. This is a perfect example of how people focus on the past and future too much and do not focus on the present moment. They are thinking about the things they can not control or change instead of being in the present and enjoying the moment.

One of the views from the Combs of the Wind

Closing

Overall, this day in San Sebastian was very beautiful and we were able to accomplish a lot. From my own activities of biking in the morning, going to the beach later in the day and dinner. As a group we experienced a lot and were able to learn a lot. These two sights were amazing to see and will be something I will remember. San Sebastian has so much to offer and I am so excited for what I will experience along the rest of this trip and the memories that come along with it! Even though I have not been here for even two weeks yet, I can say taking this trip abroad has been one of the best decisions I have made. This has given me many new experiences that I would not have been able to have if I did not do this. It also has given me many friends and memories that I will always cherish!