Kaxio, Hello in Euskara 

For the past two weeks, I’ve been waking up in Donostia-San Sebastian, Spain, to locals in the Basque Country. It is very important to make the distinction. Over the weekend, I had a blast, from pintxo pote on Thursday night, to the sunrise Saturday morning, to the San Telmos Museum on Sunday. This was last Monday here. I woke up thinking, Today’s the day I write my blog–but I have no idea what I am going to write about. 

Like every day, I rushed to get out of the door for Lacunza. But I always seem to make it on time. Taking in all the breathtaking views of the waves crashing in on La Concha, the way the sun hits the Island of Santa Clara, and the locals on their daily run. These views never seem to get old. No matter how long you’re here, there is always something you never noticed.

That Evening, we met Professor Z. at Cristina Ena Park for our Basque Language course. We had sat in the back of the park, where you could still hear all the commotion of fathers and children enjoying play time, the pigeons crowing, the beat of the traditional Basque drum. I had technically been immersed in the culture for two weeks, but today it was different. As I sat and watched the faces of my peers as Stewart, our Basque teacher for the evening, passed out packets, I wasn’t just observing the culture. It has come to me that I am living in the Basque culture. It was all around, but I never seemed to notice. 

Going to the San Telmo Museum, I had gotten an insight into Basque history. It wasn’t just the prideful culture everyone talks about. I was able to see the oppression fight the Basque people fought against to get here. I felt proud to deepen my knowledge and understanding. I had been here for what seems like forever, yet I still didn’t quite understand. 

Today I was submerged in Basque. It was during the lesson that everything went silent, and I heard the whispers of my peers practicing their Basque pronunciation. When I realized I was around Basque this whole time. 

At the beginning of this trip, I was star-struck at how much of this felt like a vacation. I was going to the beach every day, shopping in the Centro, and sightseeing.

Each day I lived five different lives. What’s not to love about this city? Right as the “bell rings” and school is out, I find myself going for a walk by the beach, getting my favorite snack, acai. Then going for a swim at La Concha, getting bronzed by the sun, enjoying every waking moment of this experience.

I ended the day by the combs of the wind, what’s better than that.. Just to take in that last moment before I headed off for the night. The combs of the wind are truly an inspiring place. As I sat there listening to the waves crash on the rocks and viewing the sculptures of the past, present, and future. I could only think of the conversation with Professor Z. at the combos of the wind, how life is a journey, and we are meant to be scared. How we sometimes pride our past too much, but then sometimes life places too much emphasis on the future. When we are just trying to remain afloat, in the present, the part we can grasp. 

I watched as the different people came to touch the present, sit for a while, and have all their fears and worries gone to snip that picture, to capture it all. Then just like that, the wave comes crashing back and we are snapped back into reality. The anxiety of the future creeps in, and the hurt of the past is back. It is important to just live in the now, take it all in. 

If being in San Sebastian has taught me anything, it is to live in the now, because there is no looking back, only forward, but you can’t be out there too much. Now I have no idea what’s in store for my final days here in San Sebastian, nor the traces of memory I will leave behind or take with me. 

Mila esker, Donostia, Basque for, Thank you a bunch, Donostia-San Sebastian.

by Jake Hoffman

Group Pintxo Pote Adventure

This weekend started off with the best aspect of San Sebastian, Food! A large group of us had the opportunity to attend a weekly event in the city Pintxo Pote. The idea of this event is very simple, restaurants that participate offer a standard deal, 3,50 euro for a pintxo and a drink. A number of us had heard stories of Pintxo Pote and how exciting it was via friends at Lacunza our Spanish language school. I can confidently say that it exceeded all expectations. It took us a little while to get our bearings but once we did, we were off to the races trying a wide variety of different pintxos and drinks. This night was a perfect culmination of everything I’ve grown to love about the city; the streets and bars were full of people having fun eating great food, and socializing. I had so many amazing pintxos (The ham croquettes still being my favorite) and made some great memories with new and old friends. We even managed to run into a group of other students from Lacunza. To add to the night, I now have a great video of my good friend doing the worm.

A New French Frontier

The next morning three of my friends and I headed off to the bus station to go adventure to the French City of Bordeaux for the weekend. The bus ride although long went fairly quickly and before I knew it, I was standing in the Wine Capital of the World. We spent our first few hours here getting to know the area and finding our way to our hostel. Walking through the streets we saw some beautiful sites and numerous bakeries and restaurants. Soon enough we met up with a friend of my friends who had travelled all the way from Poland by bus.

The rest of the night consisted of some card playing and some excellent ramen. Although Bordeaux was beautiful, from the moment I got off the bus I just couldn’t shake a feeling that it was not the place I wanted to be. At first, I chalked this up to the same nerves I had flying to Spain two weeks prior, but even as we explored that gut feeling did not go away. I was with my friends and an amazing city some people only dream of visiting, so why wasn’t this feeling going away? It took me until the next day to understand this feeling more in depth but that night my friend Ethan and I made a game time decision to take another bus ride back to San Sebastian.

That night after dinner Ethan and I packed up our things and left for a 3-hour bus ride back to Spain at 1 am. I can’t say in the moment this was an enjoyable ride, but I already know this is a shared story he and I will remember for a long time.

The View of a Lifetime

After sleeping in till midday post bus ride Ethan and I decided to hike up a mountain trail he had been shown previously. The hike up there was a blast. I love being in nature and the lush flora of the mountain was just perfect. To be there with one of my closest friends joking around and admiring the scenery was a cherry on top.

Being in the city I have seen a gallery of beautiful sights – from beautiful ornate churches to stunning beaches – but none have taken my breath away like the cliffside view he led us to. Here I was looking over a cliff down at one of the most beautiful cities when my feelings from Bordeaux starting to make sense. Even though I had already been in San Sebastian for two weeks not a single ounce of me was ready to leave it. That gut feeling wasn’t nerves or anxiety it was a form of home sickness I had never felt before. Deep down I couldn’t bear the idea of losing even a few days in this city that I had come to love deeply. I already know if I get a chance to come back, I will take it in a heartbeat.

The Sun Sets on Another Weekend

After my hike on Saturday my weekend was very relaxed. I spent a lot of time relaxing at the beach and ate some great food. On Sunday evening we decided to make one more trip to a Basque art installment, the combs of the wind. Here we sat for a while as the sun went down admiring the natural beauty mixed with the man-made sculpture and just had a talk for a while.

No Regrets

From the moment I got on that plane I was worried if I made a mistake coming. I am a creature of comfort, so this trip steps far out of my comfort zone. Regardless of this I have made memories that will last a lifetime here. Between the wonderful sights and the fun times with friends new and old, there’s not a thing I would change.

For the long weekend, a group of friends and I decided to visit Paris for a quick trip. After two weeks in San Sebastian, I was a little worried about how different the rest of Europe would be. 

We had gotten accustomed to the safety and culture of the city as well as the location itself. I feel like I could get around without any sort of map. However, Paris was an entirely different beast. I had been warned countless times about how dangerous Paris can be, as well as the sheer number of pickpockets. My father even suggested that my friends and I watched Taken before we left. With all these things in mind, I didn’t have high expectations for the trip, but was looking forward to seeing the culture and food. 

After comparing different modes of transport, we decided that the train would be the most cost efficient way to get to the city. Our airbnb was around a 7 minute walk from the Paris Gare Montparnasse which allowed us to reach the airbnb quickly thursday night.

Friday morning our trip truly began. We began our day by taking the bus into the Notre dame area and grabbing a traditional french breakfast, during which our waiter recommended we visit “Rue Mouffetard” which was not originally on our itinerary, however we kept the street on our minds. Soon after we left for the Notre-Dame Cathedral which had previously re-opened to the public after the 2019 fire. The inside of the church was stunning and really showed off the brilliance of gothic architecture. After, we walked to the Musee D’Orsay, which houses some of the most brilliant artwork of all time, including Van Gohn’s “Starry Night Over the Rhône”and Monet’s “The Water Lily Pond”. Finally we ended the day seeing the sunset at the eiffel tower and eating crepes at a nearby restaurant. It’s an interesting feeling to experience something you’ve only ever seen pictures, and it’s strange to think that something we’re for the first and potentially only time, is part of someone’s everyday life. 

On Saturday, we visited a few more attractions before our train ride back to San Sebastian. Our first stop was the Montparnasse cemetery, which houses more than 35,000 graves, including some famous writers like Simone De Beauvoir. After having breakfast at Millie & Un, a French-Korean bakery, we took a quick stroll through the Luxembourg gardens. I really enjoyed the gardens a lot more than I expected, it was lively and had stunning views. We then had tickets for the Paris catacombs, which i was very excited for. I noticed how seriously they took safety, they counted multiple times how many people entered and left the catacombs, and had a live counter making sure no more than 200 people were inside at all times. The inside of the catacombs were eery but also fascinating. It’s hard to process just how many remains are actually in the tunnels, there are millions more buried in the catacombs than people living in Paris. Finally, to end our day we had some free time and we decided to check out the street that our waiter had recommended earlier. I am so glad we did because Rue Mouffetard was gorgeous and so lively. We had delicious authentic french food. I also tried steak tartare for the first time, which while it wasn’t bad, the texture would definitely take some time to get used to. We finally finished off our evening with some crepes before starting to head back to the train station. 

Overall, I loved our trip to Paris, and I’m so glad I got out of my comfort zone to see Paris. While San Sebastian has that charming coastal city vibe, Paris’ high energy and fashion was an incredible contrast to witness. I was very aware of the saying that Parisians were rude and hated Americans, but every single interaction i had was kind and welcoming. A Mexican waitress even gave our group free macarons after we spoke to her in Spanish. 

One thing I noticed in Paris, is that they very quickly will switch to english once they realize you’re not French . This is very different to San Sebastian, where a lot of locals can’t speak English and you’re almost forced to learn the language. Both have their pros and cons, but I can see how living in Paris can be annoying if you’re trying to learn the language. With only two weeks in San Sebastian, I feel like my Spanish has gotten much better. While some of it is due to the Spanish classes, most are just listening and speaking to the locals, who are more than happy to speak Spanish, even if you’re still learning. I’ve noticed that as long as you try to speak Spanish, the locals are much more patient and kind. 

This trip to San Sebastian has been my first time in Europe, and I’ve fallen completely in love with everything. The food, culture, and even languages. Both San Sebastián and Paris will forever have a place in my heart. 

Waking up is the hardest part of my day. This morning, I woke up with tremendous pain in my right foot, not sure from what but I’m pretty sure it was due to all the late night adventures. Still, I knew I had to suck it up. We are now at the half way mark of our trip and there’s so much I haven’t explored yet. However, I decided to take it a little easy for the day. Instead of walking to class I chose to take the bus to give my foot a little break before going all in for the day.

And by midday, I had completely forgotten my foot was even hurting. That’s the effect this place has on you.

My favorite thing to do in this city is walking around. Everywhere I walk in San Sebastián, I feel like I’m inside a work of art. The city itself feels alive, like a beautiful canvas that changes a little every day. Whether you’re standing on La Concha Beach or riding the boat over to Santa Clara Island, there’s always something that catches your eye. The art of the city can even be seen in the food and on the streets 

It’s hard to believe we’re already at the halfway point of this trip. Time is moving in a strange way, very fast and slow at the same time. During our discussion, Professor Z said something that really stuck with me. He said time warps when you’re traveling. When you’re home, it feels like every day passes in a blur. You wake up, eat breakfast, go to school or work, come home, sleep,repeat. But when you travel, every day feels full. There’s always something new to see, new people to meet, new places to get lost in. Time slows down because you’re actually living in it, not just passing through it.

That idea stayed in my mind the rest of the day, especially during a moment I didn’t expect to mean so much.

I was walking around Parte Vieja, just wandering through the streets, when I stepped into a random souvenir shop (seems to be a wine souvenir shop) to pick up a few gifts for my mom. As I walked in, I startled the woman inside, probably the owner. She looked up, laughed, and said I moved so quietly she hadn’t even noticed me come in. We ended up talking for a bit, and she asked where I was from.I  told her that I was from Massachusetts here on a school trip. Then she asked “ If you live in the United States, why haven’t you been to places like Canada or Puerto Rico yet.

I told her the truth: “I want to, but money has always been the issue.”

She looked at me, smiled, and said something I’ll never forget.

“Life is too short. Live. Explore.”

Then she told me that instead of spending money on expensive houses or fancy cars, I should aim for something affordable and use the money I save to travel the world. She said I’m still very young and there’s so much out there for me to see and learn. The way she said it was so sincere and real. I didn’t expect that kind of advice from someone I’d just met in a little shop, but that moment hit me harder than I can explain.

It made me think about how much this trip is changing me. Not just what I’ve seen, but how I think about life and what I want out of it. That quick conversation with a stranger reminded me why I wanted to travel in the first place.

As I was checking out, we both suddenly heard the sound of drums outside. It started softly but quickly grew louder. When I stepped outside, I saw a group of children of all ages marching through the streets playing drums, surrounded by locals clapping and laughing along with them. A fiesta was beginning. I had no idea what it was about, all the posters were in Euskera, the Basque language, but that didn’t matter. Just being able to witness it felt like a gift.

Before coming here, I honestly thought San Sebastián would be just like the rest of Spain. I had no idea how wrong I was. Seeing the locals proudly celebrate their Basque identity through language, music, tradition showed me how deeply they care about their culture. A culture that, not too long ago, was threatened, even pushed toward extinction. And now here it was, thriving in the streets in full color and sound. It made me feel hopeful and honored to witness it.

So yeah, maybe I woke up today with a sore foot and a heavy body, but I also woke up in a city that teaches you something new every day. San Sebastián isn’t just a place to visit. It’s a place that can change you, through the quiet talks with strangers, the unexpected fiestas, the sunsets that stop you in your tracks.

We’re only halfway through, and already this trip has given me stories I’ll be telling for the rest of my life.

By Jesse Friedman

The past 10 days spent in San Sebastian have been nothing short of spectacular. The picturesque city buzzes with excitement each day and I feel incredibly lucky to take it all in. Each street is beautiful with detailed architecture that is surrounded by oceanside views- a distinct difference from back home. Exploring the city of Donostia truly feels like a dream.

One of my favorite aspects of my time in Spain is getting close to Spanish and Basque culture, and my favorite way to do it is through experiencing local gastronomy. Of course, I had to try out as many pintxos as possible. My favorite so far being the Gilda and the Delicia, other pintxos such as the calemares en tinta (squid with ink) are less favorable, however it is still worth it to try as many as possible. Beyond experiencing Basque culture through gastronomy, the city continues to fascinate me. From the innovative basque food scene, to the beautifully detailed architecture, and the overall liveliness of the city, there is not a single part of the city that feels bland. In the evenings it’s easy to get lost in the middle of town, observing fiestas that seem to occur at random and enjoying the excitement that fills the streets each night.
In the morning I wake up sleepy from all the adventures that occurred the day before, however, I quickly am rejuvenated by the excitement of what’s ahead. Even my commute to Spanish school contains a unique beauty, as my bike ride weaves through local towns and I enjoy viewing the basque coast and the Bay of Biscay. When I arrive at Spanish class each morning, I spend the first hours of my day picking up on information I can later use to communicate with locals. During class, I also get to meet other students from all around the world who are also in San Sebastián to learn Spanish. And during break I get to practice my newly learned Spanish in local cafes while I socialize with other students over bocadillos and cappuccinos.

After Spanish class concludes on weekdays, the whole group engages in activities that further deepen our understanding of the Basque country. Today, on July 15th, our group walked to the Comb of the Wind, located at Ondarreta beach. As we discussed the significance of the sculptures created by basque artists, surging waves crashed behind us. One of the most memorable parts about studying in San Sabastian is that each day is seldom mundane and every moment hosts unexpected beauty.

    Continuing into the afternoon our group hiked Mount Igueldo. We climbed a steep greystoned staircase that guided us onto a funicular ride, which took us thousands of feet above the ground. Once our group arrived at the top, the expansive view of the city glimmered in the distance. When our attention finally diverted away from the magnificent landscapes below us, we enjoyed one of the oldest amusement parks in all of Western Europe. There, a short rollercoaster ride that is over 100 years old is woven around the cliffside. Cruising alongside the mountainous bluff triggered butterflies in our stomachs, lighthearted screams, and memories to last. Finally, wrapping up our amusement park adventures with a gelato and newfound friends was the perfect way to end our group tour of Mount Igueldo. 

In Donastia, where each day brings forth a new adventure and every morning introduces a novel experience, there’s always an opportunity to learn something new. Coming into the trip with no prior experience learning Spanish, I was initially nervous about a language barrier. However, in just over a week I have started to understand full conversations in Spanish and speak just enough to interact with locals. Although I was previously skeptical about traveling to a country where I did not speak the language, my abroad experience so far has shifted my mindset. I am now much more confident in taking on these challenges and have a lot of fun doing it. As the days pass and the study abroad program comes closer to the halfway mark, I am surprised at just how much I have learned in such a short time. Whether I am familiarizing myself with a new city or expanding upon my communication skills, I am sure I will take these valuable experiences back home.

It is a weird sensation waking up in a foreign country half way across the globe. This morning the exhaustion had caught up with me. Today, July 14th, marks a little more than a week since we arrived in the city of San Sebastian. I have consecutively slept no more than five hours each day since landing. Sure, this behavior is not all that healthy, but when will I be able to say that I will be in Spain again at nineteen years old? I have tried my best to fill the past couple days with adventures that I would hold onto through the rest of my life. Despite the lack of sleep I still pushed myself to get up in the early mornings on numerous occasions during the trip. The adventures that resulted in these early mornings have led to some of the prettiest views that I have ever seen.

It had been the second day from arriving idea and I had the (not so) bright idea of getting up at 5:45 AM to watch the sunrise. My friend, who reluctantly agreed to go on the quest, was not too enthused. Regardless, we had still woken up and gone on a run, making it about two thirds up a small peak named Mount Igueldo. The mountain flanks the southern edge of the city, allowing for a panoramic view of its beaches, buildings, and most importantly, the sun rising from the east. San Sebastian had gifted us a 65 degree F° morning, which allowed us to comfortably ascend the mountain’s inclines without getting drenched in sweat. After the difficult run, we were rewarded with a stunning view of the city.

Heading out after Spanish class of today, the entire group of students ventured near the “old part” located in the middle of San Sebastian. We had gone to a “mountain” named Mount Urgull, which in reality is a small hill, and ascended its steps. The mountain, which had been used as a military base to protect the old city of San Sebastian, now serves as a museum and view point of the city. From within the museum, we learned more about the history of San Sebastian, the military advantage of Urgull, and saw exhibits of what the “old part” looked like before the rest of the city of San Sebastian was built around it.

To add onto the already busy day, a group of six people including myself decided to travel across the Spanish border to a nearby French city called Biarritz after the tour of Mount Urgull. July 14th happens to be French independence day, where numerous cities in France would celebrate by throwing parades, festivals, and shooting fireworks. After arriving by bus just after 6 pm, the group of us ventured out into the beautiful city of Biarritz. The streets were packed with locals and tourists running around to celebrate the day. Being located in the Basque country, Euskara, the native language was scattered throughout signs, buildings, and menus across the town. There had been a stark contrast in the buildings, architecture, and in a lot of the food that we tried there. Walking through the streets, the six of us were able to see the differences in the culture between the two countries. After some exploration, we had ended off the night by watching some fireworks and taking a late night bus back to San Sebastian. Despite arriving back at the hotel at around 2:30 AM, I do not regret a thing and would do it all over again.

As our trip to San Sebastian nears its halfway point I am reminded of the importance of being willing to explore, getting lost in the places you travel, as well as in life in general. Personally, I think that staying curious and adventurous has allowed me to appreciate life and the beauty within it. By going out, trying new things, going on adventures, or even doing things that we are afraid of, we can make more worldly and culturally aware versions of ourselves. These actions, especially in the state of today’s world are more important than ever. I hope to find myself continuing to being curious throughout the rest of my adventures in and near San Sebastian. I do not think I would want to have it any other way.

The first week in San Sebastián flew by faster than I think any of us here thought possible. Each day has felt like an eternity, and nevertheless the first week was gone in a blink. When writing about the first week of this trip it is instrumental to explore how the week came to a close — and come to a close it did, rather notably.

The weekend started distinct from the week, but similar to the summer as a whole: sleeping in. The first few days of the trip were rough on the sleep schedule, and while the jet lag was quick to overcome, the need for catchup on Friday night was sorely needed. The day didn’t really start though until breakfast, which was, in the Mediterranean spirit, some form of a pastry (a chocolate croissant) and a coffee. Then, along with three of my closest friends and peers, I walked to the San Sebastián Aquarium, which was beautifully situated on the point of the parte vieja port. The walk was beautiful, and gave us a intimate understanding of the boat racers that operate out of that very same pathway we used to get to the Aquarium. There were around eight differently colored long boats that we saw, crewed by over a dozen people each, setting up in the port of the old town. Even though we did not get the chance to see their race carried out, the set up was impressive in itself. The Aquarium was an incredible experience, both due to its accessibility and its comprehensive mix between naval history and live marine exhibits. For students, full access to the experience cost €10 (~$12 USD), which was very refreshing compared to the nearly $40 dollar tickets for the Boston Aquarium near where I live in the states. Once inside, the “tour” was split into two two distinct parts: Historical information, and live marine exhibits. We learned about San Sebastián’s history with whaling, and salted cod, and port side commercialism. Then we moved toward seeing the many animals they had on the premises. We saw fish, sharks, jellyfish, eels, and crustations. The variety and beauty of the aquarium is nothing to undersell, and if you are ever in the area and willing to spend an hour or two of your time, I highly recommend it.

After the Aquarium, Jake, Ethan, Davin, and I went to the beach in front of Antigua, playa Ondarreta, for a good few hours of the day. There we swam, read, listened to music, and relaxed in the sun. While the weather turned out to be a little cloudier than we expected, it still was a beautiful afternoon at the beach. We also learned that the clouds were not nearly as good at solar insulation as we expected, as Jake fell asleep at the beach and was inflicted with a grave sunburn. I am tastefully omitting a photo in this blog post, but all I will say is Hex Code: #b6615b. In future visits I will make sure to remember that the clouds don’t inherently protect you from the sun, and plan accordingly.

The final stop on Saturday was into the nightlife of old town. Around 1am, nine of us headed into old town to hear the music and get food and drinks. The first thing that shocked me upon our arrival to old town ~45 minutes after leaving the hotel was that the city was so lively. There were people crowding the streets and laughing and dancing and eating and drinking. In the US, a majority of places close at 1am at the latest, but here it was nearly 2am and it didn’t look like it was winding down in the slightest. After hopping around to a few different places that were chock full of people, we landed at this semi-busy bar right in the center of old town. Most of us got something to drink and struck up conversation with either each other or with some locals nearby (one very friendly Barcelonan gentleman hung out with part of our group for a decent bit). After a while of just hanging out, talking, listening to the music, and learning more about Basque nightlife, we decided to come back to the hotel. Everyone had a good time, and everyone slept in ’till nearly noon since old town didn’t even begin to close until around 4am. Saturday night (/Sunday morning) was a very fun evening, though was probably the only one of its kind that I’ll have on the trip.

Sunday was a much less eventful day, probably due to its having began at noon. Some friend and I grabbed breakfast a bit after noon and then spent 4-5 hours at the beach. We then came back to the hotel and played the boardgame “Settlers of Catan” for a few hours before hitting the hay.

The weekend was very fun, and was filled with a stark variety of different activities, each capturing a different aspect of Spanish culture that is difficult to understand without its participation. I am excited for the weeks that are upcoming, and can’t wait to do all there is to do in this most beautiful city in the world.

– Jackson DeMello

Prior to arriving in San Sebastián, I truly did not know what to expect. While saying this, I made a promise to myself that I would make the most of this three-week study abroad. As the first week reaches an end, I have no doubt my confidence has grown. From navigating the airport to ordering pintxos the first night in Parte Vieja, I continue to immerse myself in the culture here in San Sebastián. Through learning Spanish at Lacunza International House, I’ve learned to not be afraid of the language barrier. The only way to learn is to make mistakes– by practicing my Spanish everywhere I go, at every cafe and bar. 

This photograph was taken at the top of Mount Ulia during sunrise. How did I get there? I hiked! I don’t usually hike, and I’m not a particular fan of waking up before the sun. However, I don’t regret this decision to the slightest degree. Alongside two of my friends (whom I met just last week!), we biked about twenty minutes to the bottom of this mountain, and then followed a trail for about thirty minutes until we reached our destination. At the beginning of this hike, the majority being all stairs, it was discouraging. I was questioning why I woke up so early to climb what felt like fifteen flights of stairs. Then, there were short times of flat terrain during the hike in which I could catch my breath. During the last portion, the sun began to peek out the tops of the trees, and after climbing up a steep rock, we were stunned by the beauty around us.

Looking to the left, there was a full view of the coast of San Sebastián, simply vibrant in color. To the right, the sun was emerging out from behind a small mountain. As I listened to the crashing of the waves and inhaled the cool air, I instantly forgot about the burn in my legs going up those stairs and any lingering drowsiness. The feeling of accomplishment I experienced made it so worth it. I couldn’t have been more content at that moment, it was the best way I could have begun my morning. This memory will hold value when I look back at my milestones that took place in San Sebastián.

Moreover, I’ve emphasized to myself that being out of my comfort zone will help me gain a new perspective and ensure I experience what the Basque country has to offer. Not even three days into the trip, the 16 students here have bonded in some shape, way, or form. Two of these students were my suitemates from freshman year. Having them with me in San Sebastián is the greatest gift but I have formed many friendships aside from them. Afterall, I went on a hike with two students who I met only last week! It is simply crazy to grasp this because of the amount of memories we have made in such a short stretch of time.

On day two, the group met Professor Zabalbeascoa for the first time. We strolled around the city to learn the history of where we are for the next three weeks and shared short introductions of who we are and why we chose to explore San Sebastián. This was simply a glimpse into what this trip has ahead. There are two aspects of the Basque culture that have stood out to me the most in my one week of exploration: food and amiability. I further embraced these aspects during my first free weekend in San Sebastián.

While pintxos are a staple of Basque society, I want to bring particular attention to the art of making and the act of drinking coffee. My love for coffee is deeper than just the taste. At home, I am always going to coffee shops with my friends to “catch up.” On nearly every block in San Sebastián is a cafe, giving people endless opportunities to connect and talk/spend time with each other in a friendly, calm environment. I’ve gotten coffee in San Sebastián alone and with my peers; I’ve noticed people are not rushed! They sit to talk and enjoy their coffee, whereas I’m used to seeing people grab their coffee on the go in the U.S. This is a reflection of the fast-paced society in the U.S. Visiting coffee shops is by far one of my favorite experiences in Spain, it gives me time to calm down and reflect on the culture around me.

On Saturday night, about seven of us decided to visit Parte Vieja. As we rode our bikes into the city, I cannot emphasize how busy and lively the environment was. It was impossible to miss. Music filled the air, people danced in the streets, and the smell of food was incredible. As the group weaved in and out of the streets, stopping at bars when something caught the eye and taking into consideration the recommendations Professor Zabalbeascoa gave during the pintxo tour earlier in the week, we were quick to fill our bellies. That didn’t mean there wasn’t room for gelato! After meeting up with more students, I was able to get to know more about my peers. Our conversations that night entailed each of our life aspirations, our morals, and philosophies we follow in daily life. Getting to know the people around me has helped me reflect on who I want to be in the future. I don’t take this personal, educational experience for granted. Even though it has only been one week, exploring these new terrains has enhanced my confidence, skills, and overall happiness. 

Hello (or Kaixo as the Basque people say), my name is Paige Jurkevich and I am a rising senior psychology major here at UML. Yesterday, on July 10th me and a group of my classmates went to 4 different pinxcho bars to try a variety of different dishes. I would say that I am a big foodie, and like multiple different foods however I was a little nervous for this as I did not know if I would like the food here and if I could have any of it since I am Lactose Intolerant . Our first stop on the tour was at Casa Valles (just around the corner from Lacunza – where we have our Spanish Classes 9-1, Monday through Friday) which is known to be the birth place of the Gilda, supposedly in the 1940´s.

My classmates and I also tried some other pintxos in Casa Valles including Chorizo Cocido (Cooked Chorizo) and Jamón Ibérico (Iberian Ham), which ended up being two of my favorites.

Our next stop was at La Espiga – Gran Bar (which is American cookbook author – Marti Buckley´s favorite bar) which in my opinion was my favorite stop on the tour. It was also featured in an episode of Eva Longoria´s Searching for Spain.

At La Espiga – Gran Bar, this was the place where I felt the most out of my comfort zone prior to eating. However, once the professor brought the plates of food over, it was time to conquer my fears – and I can say it paid off and I will be visiting here again before we leave. The first pintxo we had here is actually my favorite one in all of San Sebastián. The name of that first pintxo is Delicia which roughly translates to delightful. This pintxo consists of a piece of sliced bread (probably a baguette) topped with a boiled egg, mayonnaise, finely diced white onions, and chopped parsley.

Also, at La Espiga – Gran Bar, I tried something that I did not expect to like, but will for sure in the future. This pintxo was the Squid in its own Ink with White Rice. For me, I have issues with certain textures, but this was an outlier for sure. We found out it was the professor´s favorite pintxo, as well.

After finishing at La Espiga – Gran Bar, we quickly made our way to the more modern neighborhood across the river called Gros (pronounced Gross), as we were running out of time (the bars in the afternoon are open from 12-4 and then reopen later in the day for dinner) and we still had two more pintxo bars to try. Our first stop in Gros was Adamo Plaza – La Tortilleria. This place was a tiny hole in the wall, known for their Tortilla Patatas which consist of mushrooms, potatos, and a very runny egg yolk with a piece of bread. This was not my favorite, as the yolk being runny was a texture I did not like.

By the time, we reached the final Pintxo stop on the tour – most of us were stuffed and could not eat another thing. Our last stop was Ezguzki which according to the professor is the most innovative bar in the city, as the workers actually make most of the pintxos at home and then do the final prep at the bar. Only a few people got food here because then the professor announced we were getting dessert which changed everyone´s mind about being full.

Overall, this was an amazing culinary journey, which truly opened my mind to a world of dairy-free eating in a foreign country. Thank you to San Sebastián for being such an accessible city for my dietary restrictions. Here´s to many more amazing food journeys across the globe.

On Thursday July 8th, Professor Zabalbeascoa took our class on a day trip to Pamplona in order to experience the Fiestas de San Fermín, a festival honoring Saint Fermín. After our daily class with the Lucunza school, we met up with Professor Z and took a bus ride over to the city, where on the way we got to see the beautiful scenery of Spain, looking at vast mountains covered in lush greenery as we drove by. When we got to Pamplona, we walked around a little bit while the Professor explained some of the traditions such as the “running of the bulls”, an event that happens at 8 am everyday during the festival where people run with bulls from a farm down to the arena where the bull fighting takes place later on. One of the main traditions of the fiesta is dressing up in all white and wearing red accessories such as a bandana, hat, and sash. All of us on the trip decided to dress accordingly and we took a nice group photo in the city in front of the Ernest Hemingway statue as seen below.

  After this we went to a place where we could all sit down and we discussed the book The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway, which is the reason for this fiesta being so popular to begin with. During this discussion we talked about a few different things, with the one that really stood out to me being how different generations will interpret the message of the book and the novel as a whole. For context, the book follows a group of men who just got out of WWI and are dealing with the angst of such an event. Our group talked about how as the world goes further and further away from that war, will younger generations still understand and be able to feel the emotions that Hemingway is trying to convey. I thought this was really interesting to think about and it really stuck with me because it made me realize how the state of the world changes so many times in the span of a century. After our discussion we went our separate ways to explore for about an hour, I went with my buddies and we walked around the food stands nearby. While there we saw a wide variety of food consisting of things such as smoked meats, fried food, sandwiches, pizzas, and much more. After walking for a little we found ourselves in a bar, where we got small portions of food called tapas, which included things such as a deep fried, hard boiled egg with cheese surrounding it, at least we thought that’s what it was. We hung out at the bar enjoying these tapas and some nice refreshments for a little while, then we went back to the food stands and got some fried potatoes.

Whenever we finished up we started to walk back towards the meeting point we were given, and although we got lost for a second, we eventually met back up with the group and walked back to the bus. The ride home was quiet, which is most likely because a lot of people, including myself, slept the entire time. This trip was overall a lot of fun, it was interesting to see how different the city of Pamplona is compared to San Sebastian. It was, from what we were told, the first time a session has ever gone to Pamplona and I personally think it was worth it. Seeing a big part of Spanish culture, being fiestas, firsthand was incredible and has definitely been one of the best parts about this trip so far. The day as a whole was great and I will be able to look back on it in a positive manner, and while we were leaving we did see horses walk by with bandanas on, hence the title of the blog.