The day started with sitting in the Luxembourg garden and having a discussion about the impressions we got of Paris from the texts we read, versus the impression of Paris we got after visiting it, or seeing as much of it as we had so far. We talked about how the Paris the books described was full of diversity ranging from sexuality and gender to cultures and customs. In the books, Paris was also portrayed as a calming place to sit down, have a coffee and write the day away, or have a discussion with a friend. There were also less constraints placed on people’s creativity and expression, such as the looser laws on censorship and homosexuality. Paris seemed like a place of liberation, as well as being peaceful during the day and lively after dark.

But once I got to Paris, I noticed some differences that brought me back to a real, less romanticized version of the city. From my experience, Paris is lively all times of the day, and I have had many daily encounters with homeless people and slow walkers. And though there is acceptance and liberation to be found here, there is also the pressure to blend in and look like a local, not only to gain a little respectability, but to avoid pickpockets as well (the fear that someone is always eyeing your phone or back pocket stays until the second you step foot back into the comfort of your own home). Now, this isn’t to say that Paris isn’t a beautiful city, rich with culture and adventures around every corner that leave your feet aching, but just proceed with caution and the expectation to be overwhelmed at times.

After the discussion, my friend and I got some food at a cafe in the gardens and walked around a bit more, before leaving and running into a flea market on Rue Vavin. There were vendors of all sorts: jewelry, records, honey, cultural masks. There was also an old seafoam green Cadillac parked in the road, drawing attention to a petition, and at the end of our small adventure my friend and I left with 3 free teacups, 2 hours well spent, and slight sunburns. After walking through the market and interacting with local vendors, I felt closer to the friendly, classic, lively Paris Hemingway described in the 1920s.

Though the sun was making its way further West, our day didn’t stop after our vibrant, yet relaxing, detour down Rue Vavin—my friend and I then decided to visit Parc zoologique de Paris, one of the many Paris zoos. Making our way down the metro, we ran into a photo booth and decided to make some memories that we could physically take home. Then, as we waited for the train, a man with an accordion decided to play us a tune, and boarded our train as well. It felt like a scene right out of a movie.

Finally arriving at the zoo, we were ready for some more exploring. Walking around we saw zebras, rhinos, giraffes and pumas, and there was even a smaller section with manatees, caimans and clown fish. We ran into a little girl sitting on the ground talking with a monkey seated on the other side of the glass, and I felt like I was witnessing something out of a Disney movie. There were birds wandering around outside of their enclosures, ring tailed lemurs exploring their trees, and many, many pigeons wanting in on the action. Walking back from the zoo, we passed a park with many people having a picnic on the lawn or floating in canoes on the water, and we stopped to listen to street performers singing Frank Sinatra in Italian.

Once we were back in the 14th Arrondissement, we decided it was time for dinner, and I had remembered a place mentioned when we went on our Hemingway walking tour earlier that week: La Rotonde. Walking in and taking a seat, we could see why it was such a place of inspiration for Hemingway and fellow American writers that found their way to Paris: intricate lamps and paintings adorned the walls, and there was a warm and welcoming air that kept us there until we couldn’t put off leaving any longer (and the penne was delicious).

Though the discussion in the gardens at the beginning of the day left me feeling a bit let down with my experiences in Paris up until that morning, moving throughout the different districts of the city and getting a taste of local life (and food), as well as taking a break from urban exploration in the zoo and park, I realized that my understanding of the city thus far had just been surface level—though the architecture is certainly a topic of conversation, the people and wildlife are adventures in themselves, and I was left with a feeling that the most impactful and inspirational aspects of Paris were found by enjoying the people, peace, and penne the city has to offer.