When I was walking into a Cuban polyclinic on Thursday, I didn’t think I was about to have a perspective changing nursing moment.  I thought I was just going to tour a healthcare facility, take some notes, take a few pictures, and move on.  Instead, I walked out quietly rethinking what healthcare looks like, what nursing really means, and how different it feels when care is centered on people instead of paperwork.

As a sophomore nursing student in the U.S., I’m used to learning healthcare through textbooks, PowerPoints, and simulation labs where the mannequin never complains.  Being inside a functioning polyclinic felt different immediately.  This wasn’t a huge hospital or a shiny medical center either.  It blended right into the neighborhood looking just like another colorful building.  The building’s parts were reused from old homes, which made it feel less intimidating and more personal.  Healthcare here didn’t feel distant.  It felt accessible in the middle of each neighborhood.

One of the first things that stood out to me was the role of nurses.  In the Cuban polyclinic healthcare system, each family doctor works directly with a family nurse, and together they care for a specific group of people in the community.  Everyone is known.  Everyone is followed.  From a nursing student perspective, that continuity honestly felt powerful.

In the U.S., nurses do a little bit of everything.  Somehow they still don’t get enough credit.  Hearing about nurses in Cuba being so deeply involved in long-term patient relationships reminded me why I chose this profession in the first place.  Nursing here wasn’t just task-based.  It was connection and relationship based.  Nurses weren’t rushing room to room.  They were focused on being educators and consistent faces in their patients’ daily lives.  That’s the kind of nurse I want to be.

Another huge difference was how prevention is prioritized.  Patients are grouped based on their health status, ranging from focusing on healthy individuals to those with chronic illness or disabilities.  This system allows healthcare providers to care for whatever occurs early instead of going into the hospital when symptoms are visible and get worse.  As someone who has spent countless hours memorizing disease processes, this approach felt refreshing.  Instead of asking, “What do we do when someone is sick?” the Cuban healthcare system asks, “How do we keep them healthy?”.  That mindset shift stuck with me.

One of the most impactful things I learned about was home visits.  Nurses regularly visit patients in their homes, especially elderly individuals or those with chronic conditions.  In the U.S., we talk a lot about social determinants of health, but knowing providers enter patients’ living environments makes those concepts impossible to ignore.  You can’t get a look into someone’s housing, family support, or daily challenges when you’re sitting on someone’s couch.  It made holistic care feel real.  It didn’t feel like just something we write about in care plans.

The polyclinic also functions as a teaching site for healthcare students.  Nursing and medical students begin hands-on learning early, observing real patient care and even emergency situations.  As a nursing student who loves to learn in labs and hands-on experiences, this honestly made me a little jealous.  It reinforced that confidence in healthcare doesn’t automatically appear after graduation. It’s built over time, through experience, mentorship, and actually being present with patients.

One story shared during our visit really stuck with me.  A physician described experiencing sudden chest pain and how quickly the emergency system responded.  Care was immediate.  The healthcare team provided help with no hesitation, no insurance questions, and no fear of cost.  As someone studying healthcare in the U.S., this hit hard.  So many people delay care here because they’re scared of the bill more than the symptoms.  In Cuba, the focus was simply on treating the patient.  That contrast made me reflect on how deeply financial stress is woven into American healthcare and how much that affects outcomes.

The polyclinic isn’t perfect though.  There are shortages of medications and advanced technology, and providers are very aware of those limitations.  But instead of stopping care, they adapt and learn new effective methods.  Prevention, rehabilitation, research, and even traditional medicine play major roles.  This changed my assumption that quality healthcare always requires high-tech equipment.  Instead I saw that organization, consistency, and commitment can go a long way.  Even with fewer resources the patients can be cared for as long as there’s passion.

Leaving the polyclinic, I felt changed in a quiet but meaningful way.  This experience didn’t make me think one healthcare system is perfect and another is failing.  What it did was give me a different perspective.  It reminded me that nursing is more than skills, checklists, and charting (even though those things consume nursing student’s lives).  Nursing is about relationships.  It’s about showing up.  It’s about caring for people within the context of their lives. That’s exactly what Cuba showed.

This visit reminded me of why I chose nursing.  Not because it’s easy or glamorous, but because nursing has the power to connect healthcare to the community.  The Cuban polyclinic showed me that meaningful care doesn’t always begin in a hospital.  Sometimes, it begins by knowing your patients, understanding their lives, and choosing compassion every single day.

On Thursday the 8th, I woke up feeling very excited. I even went to breakfast that morning, which I usually skip. It’s our second to last day before our return, which means it is technically our last full day. So it was kind of sad, but I was also very excited and been looking forward to this moment because we will be visiting a local polyclinic, which I did a lot of research about before my departure. Before arriving in Cuba, much of my understanding of the Cuban health care system came from that research. In those materials, Cuba’s health care system was presented as one of the country’s most significant accomplishments. It was described as a system built on universal access, preventive care, and community-based medicine despite long-standing economic challenges. While the statistics I studied were impressive, such as high life expectancy and low infant mortality rates, the system still felt distant and abstract. Visiting a local polyclinic on Thursday turned that research into a lived experience and allowed me to see how the facts and data I studied function in everyday life, and listen to the polyclinic director directly answering some of the questions that I had in mind, and seeing the data on research being confirmed by her was really fascinating especially learning more about the assigned “family doctors”.

The polyclinic in Cuba looks nothing like what I had imagined. As soon as we entered the polyclinic, it seemed to me that this was not a health care space designed to impress through modern technology or luxury. The building it self look very interesting and different from the typical healthcare facilities that I’m used to. The building looks old and shows signs of constant use. The flooring looked worn, the walls were faded, and the rooms looked minimalist and contained only what was necessary. The consultation room, it included a simple desk, two chairs, one for a nurse and one for a patient, a sink, and an old-looking fan, as well as natural sunlight filled the room. This highlights the lack of advanced equipment. Despite this, the space was really clean and organized.

The observation area is marked by glass doors labeled “Observación.” Behind the doors was a single hospital bed with minimal equipment nearby. The bed itself was simple, with a thin mattress and a basic metal frame, a window open relying on natural sunlight and air. This bed is available to anyone who needs it, regardless of income or insurance status. Seeing this in person confirmed what I had only learned about before, which was that universal health care in Cuba is a lived reality, even if it comes with material limitations.

These clinics are the first place patients go to get help and serve specific neighborhoods. Doctors and nurses are expected to know their patients personally, including their family situations and living conditions. My research emphasized that this close monitoring allows the system to catch health issues early and reduce the need for emergency care. Walking through the clinic and learning how it operates made those ideas feel real. Also, it is really surprising to me to see how different it is compared to the United States health care system, such as when we were having a conversation about the ambulance work, it is very new to me that the patients themselves can’t make a call for an ambulance, but it is the doctor who would order it for them, this make sense why I rarely heard any siren on the street of Havana.

The old infrastructure and outdated equipment reflected Cuba’s broader economic struggles. These challenges were discussed in the lectures and research, particularly in relation to the United States embargo and ongoing shortages of medical supplies. The contrast between strong health outcomes and limited resources was striking.

This experience kind of changed my own perspective about what quality health care looks like. In the United States, I often associate good health care with modern buildings and advanced technology. That perspective was challenged by the Cuban Polyclinic. Despite the small facility, the dedication to community care, prevention, and access was clear. I became more mindful of how privilege affects expectations and how different values might result in efficient health care systems.

The simplicity of each room really shows how much Cuban medicine depends on direct patient interaction. The health care system is neither perfect nor failing, and seeing the system I researched come to life was both validating and eye-opening.

After the visit to the polyclinic, we went back to Casa Vera and had lunch there, and it was very delicious as usual. At the end of the day, we had our farewell dinner at El Del Frente, and we were having a great time enjoying our food and taking pictures together for memories, and had a little debrief moment. And to end of the night we went to a Jazz club which I thought was very cute. Although I’m not the type of person who would enjoy jazz music, but the vibe and aesthetic were amazing.

As the sun rose on the final morning in Cuba, I walked upstairs to eat breakfast prepared by the house staff. Afterwards, Alex and I took a stroll through Vedado, while looking for a shop. We couldn’t find any (because I forgot the location of some), so we walked back to Casa Vera, where we had a few hours to relax/pack our bags if not already. I took this time to exchange pesos with a student from NYU. Once we got back to Boston, I didn’t think there’d be vendors that would accept pesos, so now was the right time to exchange. Although, I also thought it would be a good opportunity to take back one denomination of each Cuban bill back, just as souvenirs. After exchanging, I had a 10 peso bill, a 20 peso bill, a 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1000. I didn’t need to pack while I was back at the residence, because Achilles had helped me pack my bags and suitcase the night prior, so I was ready to go. The biggest obstacle I ran into while packing was trying to fit all of the goods I bought at the artisan market into a bag. I bought this banger of art piece that was painted onto a newspaper for 50 dollars, or ~20,000 pesos.

I feel I could have haggled down to ~12,000 pesos, but I spent most of my time window shopping that I ran out of time to haggle. Anyways, the painting was huge, so it stuck out of the bag.

Departure

Before boarding the bus, I spent the last hour wandering around the house while trying to process the entire experience. Despite all the new things I tried this week, it still felt as if I had closed my eyes and the trip was over. We all met outside, and said our goodbyes to the API team, who helped make the whole experience as smooth and fun as possible. The last thing API Director Melisa said to us was to tell people back at home about our experiences in Cuba. We then boarded the bus, and looked back at the house one final time. I began to think about what she said. What would I tell them about? I would tell them about the architecture, especially in Old Havana as well as Vedado. This whole trip, I had been encapsulated by the buildings around me. I had researched many of the common architecture styles and famous buildings prior to the trip, so to see them in person was a treat. I would tell them about the incredible food that Cuba has to offer, too. The food and drinks I’ve had on the trip were nothing short of exceptional–fresh, too. Tropical fruit in the Caribbean is truly unmatched. I would tell them about how hospitable the locals were, and last but not least I would lecture them about the U.S. Embargo, which many of the locals refer to as a blockade. This entire trip, whether subtly or directly in one’s face, has been greatly influenced by politics. The reason Cuban cars get so much traction is because they date back to the 1960s, which is when the blockade started, giving them a “vintage” look. In terms of benefits of the blockade, that’s where the list both starts and ends. Much of their public infrastructure is outdated, including their electricity grid as well as their water systems. This was apparent as the house lost power multiple days, and the showers and sinks had really low water pressure. Cuba is such a beautiful country, so to see the problems they face today, in spite of their advanced healthcare or impressive architecture, is shocking. I did my research beforehand so I could feel more prepared. My parents warned me about possible power outages in Cuba ahead of time, as to avoid being surprised if power went out.

Back in Boston

When I arrived in Boston, I received a call from my aunt. She asked me how my trip was, and I told her about all the excursions throughout the week. She made a remark about Cuba’s poor public infrastructure, so I explained that the infrastructure is outdated for the aforementioned reason being the U.S. Embargo restricts trade, which greatly hurt Cuba’s economy. She was eager to learn, however, and this made her want to look into the issue herself. To study abroad is one experience, but being back home is another. Despite the comfort of being home, I miss the warm weather, the fresh fruits, and the amazing architecture. Maybe I’ll go back on my own some day.

January 6th marked our fifth day in Cuba, where we would not only get to dive into one of Havana’s largest markets, but also get to explore the beaches in Guanabo. The day started off like most others up to this point with an early breakfast around 7:30. With the typical breakfast at the residence we were staying at consisting of scrambled eggs, fresh fruits(papaya, plantains, and guava), toast, jams, and coffee. By 9:30 we boarded the bus to head to our first destination.

Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market

At 10 am we arrived at the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market, a large two story warehouse filled with artisan goods and products. There we were given one hour to explore the market, and purchase any souvenirs. The market was divided into two sections, the first floor was filled with small shops selling anything from magnets to hand carved domino sets, while the second floor had an art market with paintings spanning the whole way. While most of the group started off on the first floor, haggling for the various knickknacks, I made a beeline straight to the art section. When walking through the first floor, the vendors would try to grab your attention, promising you the best deals and that they had the perfect product for you. But since they knew we were tourists, almost all of the vendors would initially try to sell something to you at the highest price possible. These inflated prices however were still extremely cheap by American standards so some people paid up front. Others however, mastered the art of haggling, getting something down from 10$ to 2$, and ending up with a large haul of goods as a result. Another thing to note of the first floor was that for every kiosk that sold something hand made, there was always another nearby selling magnets made in China. So like any good market, the products you got were as good as the wit you brought with you. But I was on a mission, I wanted to see if I could make my very first art acquisition, so the second floor is where I ended up.

There, large stands overflowed with paintings, creating countless rows of art that seemed to never end. Each stand had its own unique style and artist behind it, but typically a broker would be selling the paintings. The art consisted of everything from post-modern abstracts to a 200$ portrait of LeBron James. Me however, being the indecisive person I am, wandered the floor for 55 minutes unable to decide what piece spoke to me. There I found a small abstract painting that was a bit larger than my hand. I was presented with a price of 10$ and the opportunity to haggle, but given the little time I had left and the state of the Cuban economy, I chose to pay in full. I left satisfied knowing that although it was a purchase made under a time crunch, it was one I would cherish for many years to come. After that our hour at the market had come to a close and we boarded the bus for our second destination.

Guanabo Seaside Excursion

After a 40 minute journey to our destination, we arrived at a stunning seaside home in Guanabo, where we would be staying for the remainder of the afternoon. On top of being directly on the beach, the home also featured a pool and expansive lounge area. But before we could go sprinting off into the ocean we had an important lecture to attend. We gathered in the main dining area, and there a Cuban marine biologist taught us about the impacts of global warming on Cuba. In specific coral reefs and mangroves were some of the main talking points. It was highlighted how in recent years these areas, which had acted as sanctuaries for marine life, had been in rapid decline due to pollution and rising global temperatures. But there was a positive note to this lecture. Along with emphasizing the environmental decline being experienced, the lecturer also outlined some of Cuba’s environmental policy that has been put in place to combat it. As of now, 30% of all coastal land and beaches in Cuba is considered environmentally protected, and as such pollution in these areas is heavily policed. This, along with other policies put in place, has actually caused there to be an increase in the amount of fish seen in certain parts of Cuba. After the lecture we were treated to a bountiful lunch of lobster tail, fried plantains, beans, rice, marinated pork, chicken, and assorted vegetables. Although delicious, I couldn’t help but feel a little guilty about having such a feast in a nation with food scarcity. After lunch we had a few hours to dive into the ocean and take in the scenery. I spent some of the time collecting coral and sea glass I found on the shore. The rest of the time I was with the group pacing a football and swimming.

We then departed around 4pm and returned to the residence where we were left to our own devices. Most of us rested till dinner at 7pm and then spent the rest of the evening exploring Havana. I spent some time exploring on my own when we returned and found a synagogue with a gym in the basement.

Saturday, January 3, marked the first full day of our study abroad experience in Cuba. This day would certainly set the tone for an exciting week ahead, as we learned about culture, cuisine, and visited a small town called Cojímar! The day ended with a fantastic welcome dinner with our professor and the rest of the API staff, at a restaurant named El Idilio– walking distance from Casa Vera (our residence for the week).  

After fueling at breakfast, the sun was shining, and we were ready for our bus ride to Centro Habana, where we would receive an introduction and briefing on the Cuban Ocha-Ifa religion. Also known as Santería, Cuban Ocha-Ifa stems from complex Afro-Cuban roots dating back to the 19^th century. Brought to Cuba by enslaved Africans, this practice blends West African Yoruba traditions with Spanish Catholicism, the dominant religion at the time due to Spanish colonial control over Cuba. This religion is centered around the worship of “Orishas” or spiritual deities, to connect with ancestors and achieve a balance between nature and community. 

After receiving a tour of Santería altars and having the opportunity to walk around a house-temple, we had the chance to view and take part in their sacred ceremony. There are many elements to this ritual, largely revolving around music, dance, chants, prayers, and offerings. I was moved by the amount of joy and passion emanating from the space at which we were gathered. I happened to be sitting in the front row during the ceremony and got invited up to the central area to dance with the Orisha of youth and mischief!  

It was time to hop back on the bus to attend our 1PM lunch reservation at Ajíaco Cafe in Cojìmar. This was our first full sit-down meal as a group, and one of the restaurant’s staff members prepared us for the multi-course meal ahead by explaining the order of the meal and different options. The main appetizer was the famous Ajíaco stew, a dish that showcases Cuban cultural fusion by blending a mix of meats with a variety of root vegetables and a sofrito base. The main entree consisted of chicken, beef, pork, rice, beans, and salad. Dessert featured “dulce de coco con queso,” meaning “sweetened coconut with cheese.” This was an interesting, yet tasty combination! And, as a coffee connoisseur myself, perhaps my favorite part of the meal was being able to watch an older woman brew hot coffee for us, preparing it as they do in the mountains of Cuba. This coffee preparation method involves a Moka pot and results in a concentrated and strong brew. 

Just a few minutes down the street from Ajíaco Cafe, was JJ Brothers Garden—an urban farm that provides much of the restaurants’ fresh, organic produce! As a Climate Change & Sustainability major, our visit to this urban farm was one of the parts of the trip I was most looking forward to. I was deeply inspired by their anti-pesticide, all-organic approach consisting of a diverse mix of plants and produce, a composting system, and the reuse of materials. For example, plastic and glass bottles were used as a sturdy structure to separate plant beds. Additionally, in each plant bed, there were plastic water bottles painted a certain vibrant color that the farmers would put animal fat on to attract and eliminate pests (in a natural way). Throughout our tour of the farm, we got to sample fresh herbs like oregano and rosemary, and even coffee beans! This experience allowed me to draw parallels between urban agriculture efforts I have witnessed at UMass Lowell and beyond, re-emphasizing the positive environmental and food security benefits these projects have on local communities. 

Cojímar is a historical fishing village that provided a contrast between the hustle and bustle of life in Centro Habana, where we spent the morning. In Cojímar, many people were enjoying the boardwalk and playing music. We visited a 17^th century fort and Ernest Hemingway’s memorial. We would later learn that Hemingway based characters from Old Man and the Sea on local fishermen from Cojímar, with whom he spent much of his time. Hemingway also docked his famous fishing boat, El Pilar, in Cojímar’s harbor. 

Our welcome dinner at El Idilio was the perfect ending to a great first full day. Appetizers featured foods such as: croquetas, empanadas, jamón, and queso. For the main meal, I chose “la ropa vieja” a classic, traditional Cuban dish that I was excited to try upon my arrival in the country. I was so impressed by the quality, depth of flavor, and presentation of the food! And of course, no welcome dinner is complete without a rich, decadent slice of chocolate cake with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  

Walking Tour of Old Havana

Day 3 in Cuba was marked by exploration and a warm reminder of home. After a light breakfast at the Residencia, our group took a bus to Old Havana to embark on a walking tour of the historic heart of the city. The night prior, API program director Melisa Rivière had asked us to make three observations throughout our tour: one historical connection to African heritage, another connection to indigenous Cuban heritage, and another to Spanish history on the island. Once we arrived in Old Havana, this task seemed elementary. As soon as we stepped off the bus, we were met by a statue of Cuban countryman Carlos Manuel de Céspedes in the famous Plaza de Armas. Cespedes was given the nickname “Padre de la Patria”, which translates in English to “Father of the Country.” Cespedes earned this moniker through his efforts towards Cuban independence, becoming one of the first leaders to sacrifice his wealth and status for Cuba’s sovereignty. 

Not too far from this statue stood the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, a house of great historical importance to Spanish Colonialism on the island. This was the place where Spanish Governors would rule the island during the Spanish occupation of Cuba. Did you know the wood road pictured in the foreground is one of the shortest wood roads in the world? This compact wood road was constructed in order to reduce the noise made outside the Palacio from horse-drawn carriages and the morning bustle. 

As we moved further into the city, we were further immersed in Cuban culture and history. In the Plaza de la Catedral, we were met with the beautiful Cathedral of Havana, as well as numerous Jineteros who quickly picked up our tourist status. A Jinetero (or Jinetera) is a street hustler who targets tourists specifically to make a quick buck through tours or various goods. In attempts to evade these Jineteros, we arrived at the Plaza Vieja, which used to be the place of auctioning off African Slaves as a part of the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade. 

Shortly after, we took a quick break to visit the Museo de Chocolate, where we indulged in cheap chocolate sweets (the cheapest was $0.25 USD)! In addition, we each tried the shop’s famous “frozen chocolate”, which best represented a chocolate slush in the US. After our short regrouping, we resumed our adventures by visiting sites such as the Plaza de Sanfrancisco de Asis. This plaza was crucial to ships in the Caribbean, as it served as an important meeting point for all ships in the region before they set sail for Spain.

Lunch at Bahia

To cap off our tour of Old Havana, we rested our legs and filled our stomachs at the Bahia Restaurant. This rooftop restaurant served as a perfect view overlooking the Lancha Habana and its pretty waters. After appreciating the stunning views, I personally indulged in my favorite meal of the trip: a simple yet fresh chicken bowl consisting of fresh tomatoes, white rice, avocado, pickled onions, lettuce, lime, and seasoned chicken. This dish was followed by an unconventional yet delicious dessert of guava and cheese.

(Chicken Bowl from Bahia)

Classic Cars Tour

After leaving lunch, we took the bus to a garage featuring classic American cars from the 1920s to the 1960s. A group of kind mechanics shared the history behind these cars and just how they ended up in Cuban hands. After taking some group pictures, we had the amazing opportunity to be driven in these cars down to Plaza de la Revolución, where we soaked in the history of the revolutionary figures represented in murals on the buildings. Striking figures such as Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos stood tall on the black outlines of significant governmental buildings. The grand Jose Marti memorial joined these buildings as the site of numerous political rallies where important political figures such as Fidel Castro held massive speeches and large-scale national celebrations. 

Recap on Day 3

Day 3 was my personal favorite of the trip. To start off with an immersive experience in the history-rich district of Old Havana was one to remember. The beautiful architecture and old-timey feel truly put us in the moment to learn about the several legacies that live in that district. Bahia was the perfect place to take a break and refuel with some amazing food before moving on to our classic cars tour. As we cruised through the streets of Havana in American-made machinery, the tour served as a reminder of just how much American history is intertwined with Cuban history. To cap off the tour with one of the most famous political sites in Cuba made the perfect end to the perfect day in our journey.

Monday, January 5th, was only our third day in Cuba, but it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable. The day started out the same way every other day started, a nice breakfast at Casa Vera, which was the place we called home during the trip. Breakfast was fast though, as we had to be ready by 9.00 AM for our first activities of the day; an introduction lecture to CIPS, and a lecture on Jose Marti.

These two lectures were the first actual lectures and classes we would be taking over the course of our trip, so no one, including me, really knew what to expect. CIPS was only a short walk away from Casa Vera, and it was hard to miss, as it was much nicer than many of the buildings in the neighborhood. Once we arrived, we walked through the building into a small outer courtyard, before finally entering a small classroom, which thankfully had air conditioning. The CIPS introduction lecture consisted of three CIPS professors providing a deeper look into CIPS, and what exactly they do there. Like most informational lectures, this one was not the most entertaining. After the CIPS lecture wrapped up, we took a short coffee and rest break for about 10 minutes, before starting our next lecture. The next lecture was on Jose Marti, and I’ll just start by saying this one was much better and much more entertaining. The speaker was super passionate about Jose Marti, and gave the lecture in a way that kept us engaged, while also giving us tons of information and insight into the life and importance of Marti. Marti was a major figure in Cuba’s fight for independence, and is now idolized by almost all Cubans. This was seen many times during our trip, as there are countless statues of him all over Havana.

After the lectures were completed, we hopped on the bus and headed to lunch, which was at this very nice place right on the water. The views and vibes of the restaurant were great. The menu options were very simple and similar to most places we went to, with options like fish, chicken, pork, rice, and beans. I chose to get the Tuna and Congri, which was very good. Lunch didn’t last too long though, as we had to head to the next place very quickly before they closed.

After lunch, we headed to the main activity of the day, which was a tour of the Ernest Hemingway house and museum. It is a large house with its own pool, guest house, tennis court, and more, located roughly 15 miles away from central Havana. This place was definitely one of the nicest places we traveled to in Cuba. The Hemingway house was once the home of Ernest Hemmingway, a famous American author. Hemingway first visited the island in 1928, and instantly fell in love with its culture, people, and lifestyle. In the 1940s, Hemingway finally returned and purchased Finca Vigía, which is now known as the Hemingway house. After his death in 1961, Hemmingway’s wife Mary took over the house, and slowly turned it into a museum. Everything in the house was kept original, and still is to this day. We couldn’t enter the house during the tour, but could look inside through the windows. Inside were large animal statues on the walls, and tons of old furniture. In addition to this, all of Hemmingway’s old books and unfinished projects were still inside, just as he left them. It was really interesting to see everything, as the house itself was sort of frozen in time, and gave a unique look into what life in Cuba was like back then.

To finish off the day, we played a game of baseball against the Gigi All Stars, a baseball team composed of young boys ages 5-14, which was formed by Ernest Hemingway himself. During the previous tour, we had seen the boys practicing and warming up. To be honest, from a far the boys did not look too good. They were overthrowing the ball and completely missing the ball when swinging the bat. This was not even close to how they performed when they played against us. Our group batted first, and tagged on a few runs, and we were feeling confident. This quickly changed. It was now the other teams turn to bat, and let me tell you, those boys can play. They were smoking the ball, and quickly snatched the lead from us. Throughout the rest of the game, we would never regain the lead. I think when the game ended, they had won by over 10 runs. So it wasn’t particularly a close game by any means. However, it was still a really fun experience, and gave us insight into Cuban life.

Overall, it was a really fun and interesting day in Cuba, much like every day of our trip. However, I think this one beats out the rest ever so slightly. Not only did we play a great game of baseball with some of the local kids, but we also learned a lot of Jose Marti, someone we would see often during our trip in Cuba.

January 6, 2025, was our fifth day in Cuba. After eating breakfast at the residence in the morning, we were set to go to a market in Old Havana, then a seaside excursion about thirty minutes outside of Havana.

Almacenes Artisan Market

Seaside Excursion

Once we arrived at our seaside excursion, we had a lecture inside this beautiful home, pictured above. We discussed the sea life in Cuba with a marine biologist. She shared with us some of the common species, like sharks and fish. We also talked about how a current issue known as global warming can harm sea life. As the oceans get warmer, we see what is called coral bleaching, where coral reefs lose their colors, leading to starvation and death. This affects all ecosystems that rely on coral reefs to live. As the reefs suffer, so do the food webs in the oceans, creating a mass negative effect on all sea life. Another topic I found interesting in this lecture was about sustainability in Cuba. Cuba has taken legal measures to protect its environment. Most recently, in 2019, they updated their constitution to reinforce climate goals and further protect ecosystems from things such as illegal fishing. I found this information very interesting to compare to the United States, which has minimal legal protections for its environment. Following this lecture, we enjoyed a delicious lunch with rice, beans, pork, lobster, chicken, plantains, and salad.

Day 6 in Cuba (Wednesday, January 7th)

On day six in Cuba, we ate breakfast at the residencia, visited a museum called “Centro Fidel Castro Ruz”, had a lecture on US-Cuba Relations, ate lunch in a mosaic-covered neighborhood called Fusterlandia, and visited a health and wellness LGBTQ+ advocacy center called CENESEX. Due to illness, I wasn’t able to join the group for the morning activities, but I joined them for the afternoon ones.

Fusterlandia: The Mosaic Neighborhood

After the group finished the lecture on US-Cuba Relations, I met them at the lecture hall called CIPS, and we got on the bus to eat lunch in a colorful neighborhood called Fusterlandia. Fusterlandia is a public art neighborhood located in Jaimanitas, a coastal district on the western outskirts of Havana, Cuba. This neighborhood was created by artist Jose Rodriguez Fuster and is now a unique work of public art. What started as a personal project became a community-wide transformation. Begun by artists several decades ago, this art complex now covers houses throughout the neighborhood and on walls lining the streets. It’s an open-air art environment filled with mosaics, murals, sculptures, and hand-painted buildings. Fusterlandia is defined by its vibrant, kaleidoscopic mosaics that cover everything from houses and rooftops to bus stops and benches. Some people actually call it a “mosaic wonderland” because of the fact that everything is covered and made with mosaics. It’s truly incredible to see. I wish I was there to experience the neighborhood back when it was in the process of being built! Fusterlandia is approximately 20–30 minutes by car from downtown Havana and there are onsite souvenir shops selling original ceramics and paintings. Also, some tours, like ours, include lunch on the property. This spot in Cuba was really fun to see and one of my favorite sights we saw on the trip by far!

CENESEX lecture: care, rights, and respect for all

After we ate lunch at Fusterlandia, we visited a place called CENESEX which is a Cuban government-funded institution based in Havana dedicated to sexuality education, research, advocacy, and health services. It operates under Cuba’s Ministry of Public Health and plays a major role in shaping sexual rights, education, and policy on the island. We learned so many interesting things during this lecture including that CENESEX was founded in 1988, one of its first directors was Monika Krause-Fuchs (a German sociologist and educator), and CENESEX grew out of earlier national sex-education efforts beginning in 1972 with the Grupo Nacional de Trabajo sobre Educación Sexual (initiated by Vilma Espín of the Federation of Cuban Women). The full name of the center is “Centro Nacional de Educación Sexual” (National Center for Sex Education).

CENESEX’s work and goals are very broad. They develop educational materials and programs on human sexuality, sexual health and rights, they offer workshops, classes, training for professionals and the public, they provide postgraduate and accreditation programs in sexual health and education, and so much more. Their overall goal is to promote a comprehensive, rights-based approach to sexuality as part of overall human wellbeing. Another important thing they do is continue to work on anti-discrimination initiatives, including campaigns against homophobia and transphobia. CENESEX also offers counseling and support related to sexual orientation, gender identity, sexual violence, reproductive health, etc. In addition, they work with institutions on care for victims of abuse, and community health.

CENESEX is especially well-known internationally for its role in advancing LGBTQ+ rights in Cuba. It has championed acceptance of sexual diversity and the rights of LGBTQ+ people, including transgender rights and legal recognition of gender identity. CENESEX has also played a key role in Cuba’s International Day against Homophobia and Transphobia celebrations and public awareness campaigns.

Overall, CENESEX’s mission is to promote a culture where sexuality is understood as healthy, pleasurable, and responsible, and to ensure the full exercise of sexual rights as part of human rights in Cuban society. The CENESEX team emphasizes a comprehensive, rights-based model of sexuality education rooted in scientific research and social engagement and also manages education, community outreach, and legal advising related to sexual health and rights.

Some of my thoughts on CENESEX: I definitely support what CENESEX is trying to do for the Cuban community, I think it’s wonderful. I really appreciate the fact that CENESEX helped reverse past state discrimination, they see sexuality as a health and human rights issue, they expanded legal protections for families, made transgender healthcare accessible, they use education rather than punishment, they created public space for LGBTQ+ visibility, and CENESEX works within Cuban reality. There are so many reasons for people to appreciate what CENESEX is doing (and has done) for the community in Cuba, and their work is never done. They’re always looking ahead into the future to see who they can help next, and I think that’s definitely a strength CENESEX will always have.

Waking up at 3 A.M. was no easy task, but I knew what awaited me, so I pushed through. I could already feel the excitement building as I loaded my luggage into the car and set off for the airport. After some emotional goodbyes with my mom and the usual annoyances of checking in and getting through security, I was finally at the gate, waiting to board. 

I noticed some familiar faces around me from the pre-departure lectures, so I introduced myself to Ben, Achilles, and Alex. We got talking about how much money we brought and how we felt about the trip, as well as Ben warning me to download maps.me, something that would come in very handy throughout the following week. After some brief chats, we finally boarded the plane down to Miami. As we took off, I looked out to my right, seeing the moon standing high in the sky, and to my left, the sun rising slowly out of the clouds. After a brief layover in Miami, where Ben and I indulged in overpriced food, something that would soon become unfamiliar to us, we landed in Cuba. 

As I was deboarding the plane, I noticed how the Cuban people getting off seemed to know all the airport employees, greeting them as if they were family. Being from Massachusetts, where you’ll be lucky to have a pleasant conversation with a stranger, it was very foreign to see people be so friendly to everyone. Soon after this, we met Camilo and Jorge, our guides for the week, who kept that friendliness and made us feel welcomed as they ushered us over to the bus. As we were walking over, I already noticed a few of the older cars that made Cuba so famous. I’m no car guy, but it was already so unique to see the culture change that quickly. 

As we were driving over to Casa Vera, I looked outside and saw so many things I’d never seen before. People were burning trash all over the place, people were traveling by horse and buggy, and other Cubans were casually walking along the edge of the highway. If I saw someone do half those things in America, I would be concerned, but this was the way Cuba operated. Even just a half hour into being on Cuban soil, it already felt like I was in a new world. 

After getting to Casa Vera, we were brought to our rooms, unpacked our clothing, and took a brief moment to relax. We also took the time to introduce ourselves to other people in the program, building friendships that would last long past the trip. We soon found ourselves at orientation, meeting the entire staff of API, our wonderful hosts, as well as the program leader, Melissa. She took us through the basics of Cuba: exchange rates, curfew, and how to handle jinateros and piropos. Jineteros are people who hassle you on the street for money, and piropos are people who will catcall you, men or women alike. As I was learning about them, it reminded me of walking through Times Square and experiencing the same things, making me realize not everything was different between Cuba and America. 

We finally went on a neighborhood tour, seeing a local gym and a 24/7 market that would soon satisfy our hunger on many late nights.

After getting a glimpse of what our neighborhood was like, we came back to the Casa and headed upstairs for some much-needed dinner. As we were all trying to relax and enjoy some good Cuban food, it suddenly sounded like a bull in a China shop had entered the dining room, as we met the infamous CU Boulder students for the first time. Dinner soon became a show as Clyde, a particularly rowdy CU Boulder student, came to our table and provided us plenty of entertainment for our entire meal. 

After dinner, we decided to explore around Vedado, our neighborhood, and make the most of our 2 A.M. curfew. We went to Café Infinito first, where the rowdiness of the CU Boulder kids followed us. As Americans, who already have a bad reputation abroad, we felt as if they weren’t doing us any favors, especially in a country that America has already done so much damage to. We left and went to a different spot that had live music, and we were able to sit down and appreciate the beauty that Cuba had to offer us. 

After getting back to Casa Vera, as I was lying in bed reflecting on the day, as well as the rest of the trip, I knew this would be an adventure like nothing else I’d ever experienced before.