Wednesday January 8, was our last full day in Cuba. We began the day with breakfast at the Casa and then had some time to relax before we headed to CIPS for our final lecture of the week. This was a later start than usual but gave me time to start organising my stuff to leave.

This lecture was on relations between the US and Cuba and was given by Hassan Pérez Casabona from the Center for Hemispheric Studies at the University of Havana. The main focus of the lecture was on how different presidents have taken different angles and why we are the current environment. He explained that the story of the United States and Cuba goes back to the time of Thomas Jefferson and that the two countries have been closely linked, even when they dislike each other. The main focus of the lecture was on more recent relations. We discussed how Obama made effort to normalise relations and then Trump’s first term rolled back many of Obama’s Policies. Casabona also talked about the future, and that he expects Trump will continue to implement policies hostile to Cuba, especially with Marco Rubio, a Cuban American as Secretary of State. He did say that he expected relations to improve in the next 10-15 years, but that they would get worse for a time before improving. This lecture showed how Cuba is nervous for the future because of the historical trends in relations.

For lunch, we went to a place called Coco Blue, which was run by an American who moved to Cuba several years ago and a Cuban artist who makes sculptures by welding and inflating metal structures. I would talk about this more, but I’m running short on space to talk about the day.

Polyclinics serve as primary healthcare in Cuba, and are situated within communities. Each polyclinic serves around 19 thousand people and 26 consultorios (family doctors). Consultorios are the first point of care and help to ensure everyone is seen regularly based on their risk categories (apparently heathly, at risk, sick, and disability). This was a smaller polyclinic but it still offered a number of services including Ultrasounds, X-rays, Vaccination, ECG, ER, and rehab (physical therapy). This polyclinic usually sees around 16 patients a day and most of these patients are coming for high blood pressure or asthma. If patients are not able to be treated at the polyclinic they would be sent to a hospital for further care. Surgeries are scheduled based on urgency, with less urgent surgeries having a longer wait time. Healthcare in Cuba is also government funded, with the only out of pocket cost being prescriptions that usually cost under 20 pesos or around 10 cents USD. While Cuba has an effective healthcare system they still deal with significant shortages, largely caused by the US trade embargo.

During the Lecture at the Polyclinic we heard sirens outside and the group headed onto the balcony to see. The sirens ended up being a parade to commemorate Castros revolution, that travels from Santiago de Cuba to Havana between January 1st and 8th. We did not know this would be passing by so this was a surprise to see and was one of the only times I heard a siren or saw an emergency vehicle.

After visiting the polyclinic, we all headed back to old Havana to visit the San Jose Artisan Market. We had visited earlier in the week, but several members of the group were interested in going back. The market has two floors, the first was mostly booths with people selling souvenirs while the second floor had different artists selling their work. When we were there earlier in the week, Alyssa and I spent most of the time upstairs, so we looked around downstairs and got some of the other souvenirs. The market was massive but many of the booths had similar offering so we looked around to find the best offers before trying to barter for a cheaper price.

At the end of the day we went to Cafe Laurent for the farewell dinner. This was another rooftop restaurant and had great view over that part of Havana. I continued my streak of getting seafood and had another meal of emperor fish. We also had a couple smaller offerings for appetizers which were similar to those we had had earlier in the week. At the end of the farewell dinner, the API director gave a speech thanking us for coming to Cuba and we took a group photo. I ended up heading to bed earlier than usual after packing up to head home. I had enjoyed my time in Cuba and would have liked to stay there longer, I didn’t know what to expect coming in but would the experience amazing, especially the food.

As time marched on toward our final days in Cuba, there was a lot less time spent outside of the classroom, with our schedules generally being filled with more lectures than the fascinating tours and cultural experiences that had filled the days prior. While it was sad to have less of the more engaging and visceral experiences of the first half of the trip, it was honestly about time that I had some more sitting down in my schedule. By this point in the trip my back was realllyyy starting to get antsy about walking for multiple hours every day and I was quite exhausted.

Tuesday started off with a considerable change in pace from a lot of what we had seen before. Our prior adventures involved a lot of exploring both the sights and culture of Havana, but very little of it was state-run, save for the airport, a number of government buildings we had walked past throughout the week, and a number of exquisite public hotels that dotted the Havana skyline that we were repeatedly told to not spend money at in order to avoid running afoul of the US State Department. But! This day was different- we were starting off with a visit to El Centro Fidel Castro Ruz, or the Fidel Castro Center.

The previous day Julian had hyped it up as a bit of a different flavor compared to the other experiences we’d had up to that point, a specific anecdote being last years tour ending with the guide proclaiming “and that was how the Cuban people defeated the evil American imperialists” a statement that isn’t untrue per say, but definitely one carried with a much different voice compared to the ones we’d been hearing from the rest of the visit. It was certain to be a unique experience.

The Center itself is a converted Spanish house built from during Havana’s time as a Spanish colony. It funnily enough has no actual connection to Fidel or even anyone in is his family, but hey, it’s a nice looking building. Our tour took us through the 9 exhibits housed inside, all “generally” relating to Castro and his legacy.

Our tour started with a room containing a number of the various accolades and awards Castro received during his life, as well as the only real bust of the man, created by a sculptor from China and given as a gift to Castro some years before his death. The guide also revealed another point, one that is quite obvious in hindsight, but not something I had consciously noticed until this point- it’s actually illegal to iconize Castro in Cuba. The reason given was that Castro wanted to avoid creating a cult of personality around himself, is it a meaningful or successful prohibition? I really have no idea, while there aren’t Castro T-shirts being sold on every street corner in Havana, there certainly are Che Guevara ones. Is that a different situation? Yes it is. But I’m not going to write an essay on that specific topic (or at least not presently) so that thought is unfortunately bound for the cutting room floor.

We wove through a number of other rooms containing belongings of Castro, vaguely following the history of his life and some of his achievements, medical aid that Cuba has provided to a number of other countries, important legislation passed by the revolutionary government, all things that I will sadly be skimming over to highlight a few specific elements while hopefully keeping this post under 50 thousand words.

The first thing (save for my medal room anecdotes) was this silly animated graphic display that morphed between Jose Marti and Fidel Castro that was explicitly pointed out to us despite being rather… simple and uninteresting? It was the first of a number of very weird breaks in the pacing of the tour and I found it unbelievably entertaining, although not for the intended reasons. It felt like the sort of museum display you just kind of walk by without really paying much attention to, like a quick plaque or single info panel in the museum of science in some connecting hallway between two areas of the museum- an amusement-park-ride-queue-decoration-tier attraction. Although this one was treated as almost a full stop on the tour, with the guide explaining how it shows how similar Marti and Castro were and having us take an awkward pause to appreciate the display. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of such a masterpiece of craftsmanship, but alas I did not truly appreciate its majesty at the time.

Moving on with the tour, I got to answer a personal question of mine- elevators! Those who know me are familiar with my elevator freakhood, and with almost all of the elevators we interact with here being Otis elevators, an American brand (although you do frequently see some Finnish Kone models too!) I was really curious to see what the elevator situation in Cuba was! With the blockade I was expecting to see some brands I’d never heard of before, as well as potentially some cool old Otis models! This tour was the first time I finally found one, with almost all of the buildings we’d been in up to this point having no elevators whatsoever. Well, the one in the Fidel Castro Center was a company I’d never heard of- a Spanish brand named “Orona.” Is there anything interesting about them? Nope! But their LinkedIn page lists them as a “vertical lifting partner” which I think is just wonderful.

My final tour highlight is the film room, where we watched a single video on the Bay of Pigs Invasion. I wasn’t really sure what to expect going into it, but it was most certainly one of my favorite parts of the entire trip. The guide tapped the play button on the displays little control touch screen and then stepped out of the room as the most hilariously overproduced video I have ever seen in my life starts to play. It starts up with this like military-style font reading “BAY OF PIGS INVASION” which then explodes into a quick intro cinematic of the insignia of the invading brigade 2506 as the numbers “2506” appear in the over-the-top stencil font beneath it. With the whole thing going up in flames and transitioning to a shot of CGI wireframe soldiers loading up assault rifles and preparing to land on the island. The video went on for 5 or 6 minutes and was one of the most hilarious things I have ever seen.

Overall, the tour was all over the place, and did showcase some actually pretty cool things in addition to the more “propaganda-ey” elements. A specific example would be the room devoted to foreign aid given and received by Cuba to and from other nations, which was genuinely interesting. But I’ve spent basically all of my time budget on the rest of the Fidel Castro Center, and will have to leave the rest confined to the deep storage archives in my mind palace. I very much enjoyed my visit to Cuba, and while I wouldn’t consider this specific event a very accurate slice of the rest of my time their, it was certainly a very interesting one.

Nothing great lasts forever, which proved true when we woke up on our last day in Havana. This day was perfect for adventuring off to the market to buy some Cuban honey to take home, which I had wanted to do for a few days prior. 

The day started bright and early with a delicious breakfast made by our house staff. After breakfast, Hazel, Serah, and I walked through Havana’s vibrant and soulful streets to the nearest market. The market was an interesting experience since it was the closest thing we had seen in Havana to our grocery stores back home. They had a huge variety of products for sale ranging from vegetables, fruits, starches, spices, honey, packaged snacks, and different meats. The meats were hanging from giant hooks, if you wanted to buy the meat the workers used a knife to cut pieces off for you.

When we returned from our market adventure it was time to jump on the bus and head over to CIPS for a guest lecture on United States relations with Cuba. As learned from the lecture, U.S.-Cuba relations have been complex and often contentious, marked by historical events, political ideologies, and economic factors.

Relations deteriorated significantly after the Cuban Revolution in 1959 when Fidel Castro established a communist government and aligned with the Soviet Union. This led to the U.S. imposing a trade embargo in 1960. The Cuban Missile Crisis in 1962 was also a significant turning point, bringing the two countries to the brink of nuclear conflict. After this, the U.S. maintained a strict embargo and pursued policies aimed at isolating Cuba. In the 2010s, there was a thaw in relations under President Obama, who took steps to normalize diplomatic ties, including reopening embassies and easing some restrictions. However, these changes were rolled back under the Trump administration, which reinstated several sanctions and restrictions. When Trump added Cuba to its list of state sponsors of terrorism it significantly impacted the country.

After our lecture it was noon, so it was time for lunch. We went to a nice little restaurant with a creative atmosphere called Coco Blue y La Zorra Pelúa. Rita McNiff and Jeff, owners of the restaurant, were exceedingly hospitable and opened their restaurant, gallery, and welding area to our group. They told us about the struggles Jeff had experienced in his childhood and as an artist from Granma who didn’t have much money, which made it challenging to become successful in the art world of Cuba.

During the pandemic Jeff committed to his time and undertook the task of rescuing an abandoned space located on Calles 14 between 11 and 13 in the capital’s neighborhood of El Vedado where he created the private world. There he built a space that functions as a cultural center, where his sculptures are exhibited and his restaurant/bar Coco Blue y La Zorra Pelúa is located. The menu is full of traditional Cuban dishes, almost all cooked on charcoal, and live jazz music is usually playing.

His space was created with love for the dream to help the development of young entrepreneurs. He has declared that his interest is to promote cultural development and invite other artists who can be part of his work.

From Coco Blue we hopped on the bus and headed to the Policlínico Universitario for a guest lecture on Cuban health and medical services.

Policlínicos in Cuba are primary healthcare facilities that provide a range of medical services to the community. They play a crucial role in the country’s healthcare system, which is characterized by its emphasis on preventive care and accessibility. Policlínicos offer various services, including outpatient care, preventive health programs, maternal and child health services, and diagnostics. They are designed to be accessible to all citizens, often located within neighborhoods to ensure that healthcare is within reach for most of the population. The Cuban healthcare system prioritizes preventive care, policlínicos play a significant role in promoting health education, vaccination programs, and regular check-ups.

Healthcare is often provided by teams that include doctors, nurses, and other healthcare professionals who work together to address the medical needs of the community. Many policlínicos are linked with family doctors, who serve as the first point of contact for patients and help coordinate care. Despite their importance, many policlínicos face challenges such as limited resources, shortages of medical supplies, and infrastructural issues, which can affect the quality of care provided.

We returned to the hostel as it was time to get ready for the API farewell dinner. The group loaded up in the bus one last time and drove to Restaurante Café Laurent. This was an elegant rooftop restaurant, with amazing food! As we enjoyed the delicious appetizers and entrees, we listened to farewell speeches from API, which made many of us very emotional. Then we gave our farewell speech, and it warmed my heart to give API members the donations we collected for them. It finally hit us that the amazing time we all spent together was shortly coming to an end, we would soon be back home living our individual lives again. Havana will forever hold a special place in my heart.

Our First Lecture

We started the warm winter day of January 6th by listening to our first lecture of the trip. Early that morning we entered a small room with the distinct sweet scent that reminded me exactly of an old veterinary clinic my family used to bring our pets to when I was a young boy. It was pleasant smell that made me feel at ease. We were introduced to CIPS, the Centro de Investigación Psicológicas y Sociológicas (Psychological and Sociological Research Center). Following the introduction, we began our first lecture on the topic of contemporary Cuba. In this lecture, the professor spoke to us in Spanish about various aspects of Cuban life and how they exist in modern-day Cuba, which our translator converted to English for us to follow along.

Lunch

After finishing our lecture, we headed straight to lunch. As we entered the building, we were greeted by a flight of stairs. While ascending I was startled to see a man staring directly at me — only to realize it was my own reflection in a well polished mirror. Eventually we reached the top which rewarded us with a beautiful rooftop view and incredibly comfortable couches.

For lunch I had 3 tacos, each filled with a different type of meat. The first taco had crab, the second had beef, and the third had chicken. Each taco was in a tortilla wrap with vegetables and one of the meats. Finally, for dessert I had the greatest of all desserts: flan. Words cannot describe my love for flan — I was even ready to cry tears of joy after hearing it was an option. After quickly scarfing down the delicious treat, we headed back to the busses. It was time for baseball!

Baseball

Near Ernest Hemmingway’s old house in Cuba, we played baseball with a group of local schoolchildren. In 1938, Hemmingway founded a children’s baseball team and allowed the kids to play by his house. It still exists as a free program for the children to join. However, to remain in the program, they need to maintain good grades in school.

The game began, and I found myself positioned in the field by first base. I had not played baseball since my tee-ball days in early elementary school, so I was a bit nervous about how I would perform. However, I quickly regained my confidence once I reassessed the situation. As it turned out, only one person in our group had much baseball experience, so we were all struggling together. We swapped between hitting and fielding a few times, and eventually the game was over, with my team destroyed beyond recovery. Following that, we headed over to the Hemmingway house.

The Hemmingway House

Our next stop was the Hemmingway house which was just a quick walk up the long driveway. Hemmingway lived here for 21 years of his life, and it is where he wrote two of his most famous book, “The Old Man and the Sea” and “For Whom the Bell Tolls”. The museum was closed when we visited but an exception was made for our group, so we basically had the museum to ourselves.

It was very interesting getting some perspective into what Hemmingway’s daily life may have looked like. It was a beautiful house with a beautiful view of Havana. We were also able to see Pilar, the boat that influenced Hemmingway’s books such as “The Old Man and the Sea”. While the boat would normally be by the harbor during Hemmingway’s time in Cuba, it was brought to where the tennis court as part of the museum after Hemmingway’s death. In front of the boat was the graves of Hemmingway’s 4 dogs.

Dinner and the King’s Day Ceremony

After we finished going through the Hemmingway Museum, we had a brief moment of breaktime before reconvening for dinner. We went back to the restaurant Razones y Motivos which we went to for most of our dinners. I decided to change up my order by getting some beef, which I think was a great choice because the meal was quite good. After we finished our dinner, we headed over to the King’s Day ceremony.

We arrived at an impressive fortress and walked our way up to a bridge that was high above a moat. After waiting for a few minutes by the bridge, a group of men dressed up in old British military gear marched their way over to us. One of the men stood at the edge of the bridge, close to us, and recited a speech from a regal looking script. Once he finished, we were able to enter the fortress.

Inside the fortress was an expansive path of stone road and walls encapsulating us into an area that was surprisingly cozy. Following the path, we eventually found ourselves by a group of market stalls. There was a cute baseball hat made of leather that I spotted that I would have loved to have bought. Unfortunately for me, this was the only time during the trip I did not bring my wallet. After a little more exploration of the markets, I went with a couple friends in our group to explore the rest of the fortress. We walked up the side of the fortress and saw a beautiful view of Havana. There was also a park, and what looked like what could have been a jail cell of sorts.

The Cannon Shot and a Goodnight

We eventually went back to the market area, and just as we arrived the soldiers from early began marching with a torch towards a cannon on the wall of the fortress. We followed them for a while, but we didn’t go all the way to the cannon because we were warned that the cannon shot would be so loud it would make our organs vibrate. Instead, we walked to an area a little bit away that still had a good view of the cannon. After a little bit of waiting, the cannon finally made its shot. It was a beautiful flash of orange with a loud bang. The noise was actually not quite as loud as I had expected, and I wish I had gotten a bit closer. But regardless, the ceremony was over. I met up with the rest of the group and headed back to the residence.

Some people went on a trip to Old Havana, but I was content with staying at the house. I talked to a friend about music for a little while on the roof of the residence. Later, I headed back to my room, devoured about six chocolate truffles I bought from a little market, brushed my teeth, and went to bed. It was another wonderfully eventful day in the Cuba trip. I think it may have even been my favorite of the days in the trip.

Our last morning in Cuba was quieter than the rest but despite knowing we were soon due to say our goodbyes, the light chatter at breakfast was full of laughter and smiles. The momentum was slow going considering we reached the tail end of our itinerary and our time to exit from the hostel hovered between 9:30 and 10. Though we had fewer people at the table, we remained lively as we reminisced over our time in Cuba with the consensus that it would’ve been lovely if our stay was just a little longer. The days passed by in a blur of good food, new sights, and sweet memories to take home that paired with a dynamic glimpse of life in Cuba. 

In the hours before the flight, I spent my time on the roof to soak in the last warm morning I’ll have til spring reaches the frigid north. Our temporary cut of the street sat adjacent from main roads dotted with hotels that stood over the homes in the neighborhood and a stone throw away from the billowing ocean that lay along the Malecón. On more than one occasion I and a few others walked along the windward side of the neighborhood to watch the ocean as we talked into the night. A mist of ocean spray reached us sitting on concrete benches when the waves crashed into the wall and swelled upward. The first day in Cuba, I made the mistake of walking where the seawater settled on the sidewalk and slipped. A few locals sitting on the wall helped me up and shared a token of wisdom about the area; don’t step in puddles, there can be seaweed. The fall was well worth the view of the Atlantic at sunset, though it might be wiser to keep that in mind when trying to capture the scenery, it’s always good to be observant of the environment around you!

   The drive to the airport felt like a goodbye to the city we had just gotten acquainted with, passing homes, parks, statues, and scattered urban farms on the way to our last stop in the country. Havana is blended like any other city, but as we left the city’s more densely urban neighborhood the land gave way to farming operatives rather than suburbs or untouched fields. Larger buildings, like the Hemingway House or Centro Fidel Castro, had greenery mixed into the landscape giving a vast feel to the property. Nature and light seemed key to Cuba’s architecture, front gardens and terraces being a staple to many of the buildings we entered. 

Much of the land we passed was dedicated to farming. Growing crops in the city is hard given the close quarters but people make it work with careful engineering and a lot of resourcefulness. We visited one such farm early in our stay and I was amazed by the tight knit system, crops were grown relative to each other’s needs and organic litter became the basis for composting and maintaining soil. It made my little environmental science heart sing to see a level of organic agriculture that many urban farms in the United States dream of. Cuba had little other choice in the matter due to the embargo and the fallout with the Soviet Union which was the main supplier of fertilizer prior to the 90s. The turn to green agriculture came as a means of allowing farming to continue long term rather than bolster yield and destroy the soil. It was my favorite moment during the trip and watching the greenery roll by in the window only solidified my stance. 

Old cars traversed the roads alongside us as familiar, no longer a jarring feature to an unfamiliar culture and country. We learned plenty about Cuba’s relationship with the United States; the impact the embargo and fluctuating diplomatic relations have on the country and how Cuba responds to said challenges. Trade restrictions make it near impossible for companies to sell in both the United States and Cuba, but that doesn’t mean some brands don’t stake their ground on the island. Some China-based auto manufacturers have made their presence known, though it’s surprising to see the occasional new model among classics. 

It was a little hard to imagine how it will feel to return to our normal; the island made its impression on us from our drive to our temporary home and reminded us of all of its features on our way back. As we shuffled our way through the airport, we bid farewell to our guides, the city, the country, and island, grateful for our stay and the opportunity of a lifetime. Not after long we reached our home state and parted ways, a little wiser, and looking forward to whatever life brings next.

Under the golden warmth of Havana’s January sun, I began a day that would forever reshape how I see history, advocacy, and the power of human connection.

I started my day with a glass of fresh guava juice and a healthy, organic breakfast, made with love and care. The sun was shining brightly on January 7^th, casting a warm glow on the streets of Havana, and I couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement for the day ahead. Little did I know how deeply the day’s experiences would stay with me. Our agenda was packed: a morning visit to Fidel Castro’s Museum followed by an afternoon at CENESEX, the Cuban National Center for Sex Education. The day promised to be as thought-provoking as it was inspiring, and it didn’t disappoint.

History Comes Alive at Fidel Castro’s Museum

After breakfast, the first stop of the day took us into the heart of Cuba’s revolutionary history. Fidel Castro’s museum isn’t just a building, it’s a portal into the life and legacy of a man who profoundly shaped modern Cuba.

The museum, set against the backdrop of lush greenery, immediately felt steeped in significance. Walking through the exhibits, I was struck by the sheer weight of history surrounding me. One exhibit that caught my eye was a collection of Castro’s medals, carefully displayed under glass. Each medal seemed to carry its own story, a testament to the moments that defined his leadership. 

Then there was his typewriter, old, simple, and unassuming yet it felt monumental. This was the very machine he used to draft letters and speeches that would shape the course of a nation. Nearby were letters he had written as recently as 2007, offering a glimpse into his later reflections. Reading his words, I couldn’t help but feel a quiet connection, as if history wasn’t something distant but rather something alive and breathing. 

What truly took my breath away was a digital mural that continuously shifted between the faces of Jose Marti and Fidel Castro. Watching the transformation, I thought about the bridge between these two revolutionary figures and how their ideals have transcended time. In another corner stood a sculpture of Fidel Castro, one he never intended to be displayed publicly. Above it, a photograph of him sitting beside the sculpture added a personal touch to the space. It felt as if he were still there, quietly observing the visitors, his presence lingering in every corner. 

Lunch at Mikos Restaurant: A Taste of Authenticity

After lunch, the afternoon brought us to CENESEX, the Cuban National Center for Sex Education, founded in 1988. Its origins are rooted in the earlier work of institutions like the Cuban Women’s Federation, founded by Fidel Castro’s wife, Vilma Espín, a chemical engineer and feminist. CENESEX is now the most important organization in Cuba addressing sexual health and human rights. The center’s history reflects a journey of social and cultural change. 

In the 1970s, the legalization of abortion revealed a high death rate, 120 per 1,000, which underscored the urgent need for education on sexual and reproductive health. This paved the way for comprehensive standards addressing the well-being of both women and the general population. One of the most groundbreaking achievements highlighted during our visit was the publication of a German author’s book, Women and Men in Intimate Relationships. This text marked a milestone in Cuban society, as it established that homosexuality is not a disease.

CENESEX has always been a pioneer in advocacy. It facilitated Cuba’s first sexual reassignment surgery in 1984, a groundbreaking move that faced intense public backlash, halting such procedures for 20 years. This reaction underscored the necessity of a dedicated institution. Today, CENESEX provides legal support for those facing discrimination, promotes sexual education, and collaborates with parents, schools, and communities to combat violence. The center also advises on policies, including the Children and Youth Act, and has been pivotal in addressing health challenges like TB, AIDS, and malaria with international aid.

The day drew connections between history and progress. Fidel Castro’s museum showcased the ideals that shaped modern Cuba, while CENESEX demonstrated how these values have evolved into a vision for equality and inclusion.

January 7th wasn’t just another day, it was a day of learning, reflection, and gratitude. Cuba’s resilience and forward-thinking spirit left a lasting impression on me.

Walking Tour of Old Havana

When we stepped off the bus on the morning of January 5th, we were greeted by the iconic Plaza de Armas. At its heart stood a towering Carlos Manuel de Céspedes statue, the “Padre de la Patria”. In English, this is translated to “Father of the Country”. Céspedes received this name because of his significant influence on Cuban independence. Behind him soared an even taller Cuban flag, its vibrant colors rippling in the breeze. The plaza was alive with greenery including a canopy of palm trees and other native plants.

As we walked through old Havana, I could see the influence that the Spanish style of architecture had on the city in the 16th and 17th centuries. Arriving at the Plaza de la Catedral, the stunning beauty of the Cathedral of Havana immediately struck me. Inside, a mass was taking place. We quietly observed the interior, taking in the high ceilings and the glow from the chandeliers above.

The Atmosphere of Old Havana

As we continued to explore the streets of Old Havana, we were immersed in its vibrant and lively atmosphere. The cobblestone streets buzzed with a diverse mix of visitors, locals, and the occasional stray cat or dog weaving through the crowd. Musicians played lively tunes on the street corners. Along the way, we learned about Cuba’s dedication to preserving the old Spanish architectural styles that give the buildings their charm. Their colorful walls and intricate details told stories of the island’s colonial past.

Our tour took us to the bustling Plaza Vieja, a square brimming with life and surrounded by beautifully restored buildings. To finish our walking tour, we visited the Plaza de San Francisco de Asís and learned its importance. Plaza de San Francisco was crucial to the Caribbean because it served as the meeting point for all ships in the region, which would gather there in Cuba before sailing back to Spain together.

Lunch and the Market

After we toured Old Havana, we stopped at Bahía for lunch, a perfect spot to enjoy the city’s charm. Throughout the trip, we were treated to authentic Cuban cuisine, and this meal was no exception. What truly set the experience apart was the view. From our table, we had a stunning panorama of Old Havana. Beyond that, we caught a glimpse of the ocean from inside the bay.

After lunch, we made our way to the Almacenes San José Artisans’ Market, a bustling hub of activity filled with shops, tourists, and local artisans eager to showcase their goods. The market offered an array of unique souvenirs, giving us the perfect chance to practice our haggling skills using US dollars. Upstairs, the market showcased a collection of different paintings and prints, each piece reflecting the artistry of Cuba. Artists sold many of these works at prices far below what they might fetch in the United States, making it a great spot for art enthusiasts.

I purchased a panoramic print of classic cars. The print depicts many cars that are all sorts of colors, sitting on a street in downtown Havana. After finding the print, I purchased a painting that beautifully captures a coastal scene. It features a red-sailed boat sailing across calm, sparkling blue waters. In the background, El Morro stands tall above the ocean. Small patches of greenery on the fortress’ edges add a touch of life to the historic structure. This was by far my favorite souvenir I bought on the trip.

Classic Car Tour

After leaving the market, we set off for a classic car tour. There were five vehicles in total, ranging from the 1920s to the 1950s, each with its unique charm. I chose to ride in a beautiful white and blue Buick, an amazing vehicle that had been restored over seven years by our driver. The car was a perfect example of the care and effort it takes to keep these vintage treasures alive.

As we cruised through the streets of Havana, we made our way to Revolution Square. Here, we took the opportunity to capture photos, both inside and outside the cars, soaking in the history and atmosphere of this iconic location. Standing tall in the background were the murals of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos, their eyes watching over the square. It was a moment of connection with the past, where the beauty of the cars and the historic significance of the murals blended perfectly, making the experience feel like a step back in time.

The second full day of our trip was my favorite, as we explored history and culture at every turn in the charming plazas like Plaza de la Catedral and Plaza de Armas. Following the walking tour, a visit to the market, where we were able to buy very unique souvenirs, added to our experience. Finally, the drive through Havana and stopping at Plaza de la Revolución to finish the day. Altogether, we experienced a day full of unforgettable moments and memories that will last a lifetime.

Saturday

Cuba has one of the most unique and rich cultures in the whole world. Fortunately for us, we were able to start experiencing this culture almost immediately. The first thing we did was learn about Santeria, a popular Afro-Cuban religion, and a central part of Cuban Culture. Santeria is an uncentralized religion, meaning there isn’t a social hierarchy similar to Christianity. For our first part of the tour, we visited a house of worship, where we got to learn about Santeria’s history and traditions. Santeria started as a way for African Slaves to hold on to their culture. When they first came to the Americas, they were forced to abandon all of their African beliefs. This can be seen in many of the Christian idols in their altar. However, through oral tradition, they slowly incorporated traditions from Africa. This can be seen in many of the African idols, as well as some of the dances that have become ingrained in Cuban culture, such as the Rumba. Almost immediately, we learned about some rituals that practitioners went through. For example, our Santeria guide requested that nobody takes photos of him, as that was part of something he needed to do. We then went to another house of worship where we got to meet an older practitioner. Here, we were able to see some of the herbs that practitioners use in rituals and healing processes. At the same time, we were also able to see just how cramped living conditions can be in Havana.

Alter at a Santeria House of Worship

After learning about Santeria, we spent the next part of the day in Cojimar, a fishing village around 20 minutes from Havana. We first got to see a small farm, and we got to try some of the herbs that are used in Cuban food. Since most food in the United States is non-organic, many of us were unused to how filling organic food could be. After eating lunch, we took a small walking tour of Cojimar, where we saw a small fortress that was used to defend the bay. We learned that the British attacked this village in the 1700s, which allowed them to seize Havana. After that, we walked along the bay for a little, and as beautiful as it was, we were beginning to see how impoverished some people were. For example, many people on government wages make very little, and one woman we ran into said she only made 4,000 pesos a month, equivalent to around 20 dollars. We also saw some of the ways many Cubans will try to make money. While passing a restaurant, we noticed that a band inside immediately started playing the second we walked near them, hoping we would go inside. Called Jineteros, many people will try to get money out of tourists by playing music, making art or just asking for tips. 

Small Fortress in Cojimar

  After the walking tour, our next plan was to play Baseball with some locals from a school near Hemingway’s house. However, due to holiday scheduling, we had to postpone this. Another thing that was very different was how much improvisation needed to happen. Due to shortages, many people are accustomed to having to adjust schedules, something that doesn’t happen too often in the U.S. . Instead of playing Baseball, the next thing we did was take Salsa lessons in old Havana. However, since we got there a little early, we got to take a short walking tour, where we saw some museums and learned about recent Cuban history. One museum we learned a lot about was one dedicated to the Cuban Revolution. We learned the story of an American pilot who had been killed in the Bay of Pigs invasion. The U.S. asked for his body to be returned, and the Cuban government said they would if the U.S. admitted to supporting the invasion, something the U.S. wouldn’t do for another 30 years. 

After our brief walking tour, we arrived at la Casa del Son, a dance studio. Here we got a brief lesson on how to Salsa, where many of us learned that we might not be cut out for some of the local clubs. Towards the end, they paired each of us with some of their professional dancers, and I felt like I was able to get a hang of it. 

After dinner, around half of the group decided to walk around Havana and experience some of the night life. We first found a small market in front of the Hotel Nacional (the same hotel from Godfather part 2). It wasn’t open for long, so we ended up looking for another spot to spend the night. We ended up finding a restaurant that was around a 15 minute walk from where we were staying. Here, I was able to practice my Spanish a bit, and we all had some light snacks and drinks. 

Hotel Nacional de Cuba