Walking Tour of Old Havana

When we stepped off the bus on the morning of January 5th, we were greeted by the iconic Plaza de Armas. At its heart stood a towering Carlos Manuel de Céspedes statue, the “Padre de la Patria”. In English, this is translated to “Father of the Country”. Céspedes received this name because of his significant influence on Cuban independence. Behind him soared an even taller Cuban flag, its vibrant colors rippling in the breeze. The plaza was alive with greenery including a canopy of palm trees and other native plants.

As we walked through old Havana, I could see the influence that the Spanish style of architecture had on the city in the 16th and 17th centuries. Arriving at the Plaza de la Catedral, the stunning beauty of the Cathedral of Havana immediately struck me. Inside, a mass was taking place. We quietly observed the interior, taking in the high ceilings and the glow from the chandeliers above.

The Atmosphere of Old Havana

As we continued to explore the streets of Old Havana, we were immersed in its vibrant and lively atmosphere. The cobblestone streets buzzed with a diverse mix of visitors, locals, and the occasional stray cat or dog weaving through the crowd. Musicians played lively tunes on the street corners. Along the way, we learned about Cuba’s dedication to preserving the old Spanish architectural styles that give the buildings their charm. Their colorful walls and intricate details told stories of the island’s colonial past.

Our tour took us to the bustling Plaza Vieja, a square brimming with life and surrounded by beautifully restored buildings. To finish our walking tour, we visited the Plaza de San Francisco de Asís and learned its importance. Plaza de San Francisco was crucial to the Caribbean because it served as the meeting point for all ships in the region, which would gather there in Cuba before sailing back to Spain together.

Lunch and the Market

After we toured Old Havana, we stopped at Bahía for lunch, a perfect spot to enjoy the city’s charm. Throughout the trip, we were treated to authentic Cuban cuisine, and this meal was no exception. What truly set the experience apart was the view. From our table, we had a stunning panorama of Old Havana. Beyond that, we caught a glimpse of the ocean from inside the bay.

After lunch, we made our way to the Almacenes San José Artisans’ Market, a bustling hub of activity filled with shops, tourists, and local artisans eager to showcase their goods. The market offered an array of unique souvenirs, giving us the perfect chance to practice our haggling skills using US dollars. Upstairs, the market showcased a collection of different paintings and prints, each piece reflecting the artistry of Cuba. Artists sold many of these works at prices far below what they might fetch in the United States, making it a great spot for art enthusiasts.

I purchased a panoramic print of classic cars. The print depicts many cars that are all sorts of colors, sitting on a street in downtown Havana. After finding the print, I purchased a painting that beautifully captures a coastal scene. It features a red-sailed boat sailing across calm, sparkling blue waters. In the background, El Morro stands tall above the ocean. Small patches of greenery on the fortress’ edges add a touch of life to the historic structure. This was by far my favorite souvenir I bought on the trip.

Classic Car Tour

After leaving the market, we set off for a classic car tour. There were five vehicles in total, ranging from the 1920s to the 1950s, each with its unique charm. I chose to ride in a beautiful white and blue Buick, an amazing vehicle that had been restored over seven years by our driver. The car was a perfect example of the care and effort it takes to keep these vintage treasures alive.

As we cruised through the streets of Havana, we made our way to Revolution Square. Here, we took the opportunity to capture photos, both inside and outside the cars, soaking in the history and atmosphere of this iconic location. Standing tall in the background were the murals of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos, their eyes watching over the square. It was a moment of connection with the past, where the beauty of the cars and the historic significance of the murals blended perfectly, making the experience feel like a step back in time.

The second full day of our trip was my favorite, as we explored history and culture at every turn in the charming plazas like Plaza de la Catedral and Plaza de Armas. Following the walking tour, a visit to the market, where we were able to buy very unique souvenirs, added to our experience. Finally, the drive through Havana and stopping at Plaza de la Revolución to finish the day. Altogether, we experienced a day full of unforgettable moments and memories that will last a lifetime.

Saturday

Cuba has one of the most unique and rich cultures in the whole world. Fortunately for us, we were able to start experiencing this culture almost immediately. The first thing we did was learn about Santeria, a popular Afro-Cuban religion, and a central part of Cuban Culture. Santeria is an uncentralized religion, meaning there isn’t a social hierarchy similar to Christianity. For our first part of the tour, we visited a house of worship, where we got to learn about Santeria’s history and traditions. Santeria started as a way for African Slaves to hold on to their culture. When they first came to the Americas, they were forced to abandon all of their African beliefs. This can be seen in many of the Christian idols in their altar. However, through oral tradition, they slowly incorporated traditions from Africa. This can be seen in many of the African idols, as well as some of the dances that have become ingrained in Cuban culture, such as the Rumba. Almost immediately, we learned about some rituals that practitioners went through. For example, our Santeria guide requested that nobody takes photos of him, as that was part of something he needed to do. We then went to another house of worship where we got to meet an older practitioner. Here, we were able to see some of the herbs that practitioners use in rituals and healing processes. At the same time, we were also able to see just how cramped living conditions can be in Havana.

Alter at a Santeria House of Worship

After learning about Santeria, we spent the next part of the day in Cojimar, a fishing village around 20 minutes from Havana. We first got to see a small farm, and we got to try some of the herbs that are used in Cuban food. Since most food in the United States is non-organic, many of us were unused to how filling organic food could be. After eating lunch, we took a small walking tour of Cojimar, where we saw a small fortress that was used to defend the bay. We learned that the British attacked this village in the 1700s, which allowed them to seize Havana. After that, we walked along the bay for a little, and as beautiful as it was, we were beginning to see how impoverished some people were. For example, many people on government wages make very little, and one woman we ran into said she only made 4,000 pesos a month, equivalent to around 20 dollars. We also saw some of the ways many Cubans will try to make money. While passing a restaurant, we noticed that a band inside immediately started playing the second we walked near them, hoping we would go inside. Called Jineteros, many people will try to get money out of tourists by playing music, making art or just asking for tips. 

Small Fortress in Cojimar

  After the walking tour, our next plan was to play Baseball with some locals from a school near Hemingway’s house. However, due to holiday scheduling, we had to postpone this. Another thing that was very different was how much improvisation needed to happen. Due to shortages, many people are accustomed to having to adjust schedules, something that doesn’t happen too often in the U.S. . Instead of playing Baseball, the next thing we did was take Salsa lessons in old Havana. However, since we got there a little early, we got to take a short walking tour, where we saw some museums and learned about recent Cuban history. One museum we learned a lot about was one dedicated to the Cuban Revolution. We learned the story of an American pilot who had been killed in the Bay of Pigs invasion. The U.S. asked for his body to be returned, and the Cuban government said they would if the U.S. admitted to supporting the invasion, something the U.S. wouldn’t do for another 30 years. 

After our brief walking tour, we arrived at la Casa del Son, a dance studio. Here we got a brief lesson on how to Salsa, where many of us learned that we might not be cut out for some of the local clubs. Towards the end, they paired each of us with some of their professional dancers, and I felt like I was able to get a hang of it. 

After dinner, around half of the group decided to walk around Havana and experience some of the night life. We first found a small market in front of the Hotel Nacional (the same hotel from Godfather part 2). It wasn’t open for long, so we ended up looking for another spot to spend the night. We ended up finding a restaurant that was around a 15 minute walk from where we were staying. Here, I was able to practice my Spanish a bit, and we all had some light snacks and drinks. 

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

Good morning! The skies were clear, and Havana’s energy was palpable as I woke up for the first time. After settling into our residencia, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast. Tropical fruits like papaya, pineapple, and guava paired perfectly with thick bread, fresh coffee, and a savory omelet with ham and cheese. Among the fruits, the vibrant pineapple and guava stood out, their sweetness bringing a refreshing start to the day. As I sat with my peers, enjoying the morning light, I felt a surge of excitement for the adventures ahead.

A Glimpse Into Ocha-Ifá (Santería)

After breakfast, we hopped on the bus, and our driver, Santiago, took us to Parque Trillo, our first stop. We delved into Ocha-Ifá, or Santería, a spiritual tradition blending African practices with Catholic elements. In this practice, each practitioner is believed to have a unique connection to an oricha, a divine energy that shapes their personality and path. To help us understand better, our guide explained the basics of this rich tradition. We saw the bóveda, a sacred space adorned with water-filled glasses and candles, offering a sense of calm and reverence. Nearby, a crucifix stood, used for offerings and prayers, connecting the divine with everyday life. These orichas, anthropomorphized embodiments of cosmic energy (Aché), link human existence to nature and the sacred.

The highlight was meeting a Santería priest. He welcomed us, where a corner shrine held candles, offerings and a bóveda. The priest’s warmth helped us connect with this deeply spiritual tradition. 

A Visit to El Ajiaco Urban Farm

After we waved goodbye to the priest and guide, the day continued with a visit to El Ajiaco Urban Farm. Hidden behind what seemed like an ordinary home on Havana’s outskirts, the backyard revealed a vibrant organic farm bursting with life. The air was fragrant with fresh herbs, and sampling raw garlic chives and salad greens made the experience unforgettable.  

Our friendly guide shared the farm’s story, showcasing organic methods like natural composting. He also explained their unique pest control technique using painted bottles. These bottles were coated in pork fat. The diversity of crops, from herbs to plantains, reflected efficient land use. Sampling fresh oregano brought laughter as we all reacted to its strong, earthy taste—a lighthearted moment in this inspiring visit. 

Lunch at El Ajiaco

For lunch, we visited Café Ajiaco, the restaurant that owns the farm. The atmosphere was warm and inviting. Knowing the leafy greens and herbs on our plates came from the garden made the meal special. We started with a rich pumpkin and squash soup. The main course featured rice, yuca, beans, salad, and various meats—each bite full of flavor.

As the meal came to a close, dessert arrived: a unique dish of sweet coconut surrounded by shredded cheese. The combination was unexpected yet delightful, providing the perfect ending to a truly memorable meal

Exploring Cojimar

After lunch at Café Ajiaco, we visited Cojímar, a peaceful fishing village outside Havana. It inspired Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. The soft waves and salty breeze set the tone as we explored the coastline. We saw the remains of a colonial fortress and admired the turquoise Gulf waters. In the village square, we viewed the monument and bronze bust dedicated to Hemingway. We took a group photo to commemorate the moment. Walking through the village, we admired its pastel-colored homes and warm residents. Although we couldn’t visit La Terraza de Cojímar, a stray cat greeted us hello. Our journey continued to Old Havana. We were passing landmarks like Sloppy Joe’s Bar and the ornate National Capitol.

Salsa at Casa del Son

After touring Old Havana, we arrived at Casa del Son for our salsa class. The space, part bar and part dance studio, was warm and welcoming. As we settled in, a shy cat caught our attention, but quickly hid from our eager admiration.

At first, I wasn’t excited about dancing, but the instructors made us feel at ease. They led us through the basic steps. We stumbled and laughed, but soon found our rhythm. Partnering up made things trickier—and funnier—as we stepped on each other’s toes. The instructors gave helpful tips, and some even tried spins and advanced moves.

Welcome Dinner

Our first evening in Cuba was special with a welcome dinner at El Idilio, a cozy restaurant. The lively chatter and aroma of sizzling meats set the atmosphere. Tables were adorned with checkered cloths, and a random cat wandered by, adding charm to the meal. We enjoyed a traditional Cuban feast with rice, black beans, roast pork, and an appetizer. I had ropa vieja with yuca, and the rich flavors matched the relaxed vibe of the evening. An additional nice moment is meeting the API team. The restaurant’s warmth and staff made it a memorable night.

To say that I, as a United States citizen, have ever “arrived” into the country of Cuba is a privilege I will cherish forever. It’s more than just a fun fact to tell my friends when we fantasize about backpacking through Europe. The experience has turned into a collection of unique tales that I will tell whenever I can, in the hopes that it will enlighten others as much as it did for me.

I felt the presence of Cuba before even stepping foot on the island. In the time that I wasn’t bracing myself for some serious jet stream turbulence, I noticed a flip in reality flying from Miami to Havana. This was the ultimate bridge between the U.S and Cuba. The fifty-five minute flight was the shortest I’ve ever been on, but my view through a porthole never changed so drastically. When I left the United States, I left skyscrapers and boundless neighborhoods. In Cuba, I was met with pure earthy fields, with a vibrant teal painted house here and there. 

This brings me to a topic that quite literally can’t be overlooked when discussing Cuba, because it is everywhere in Havana- the colorful architecture.

The first time we rode in the Transtur bus to go to our Casas, I felt like we were going far too fast. Not because our beloved bus driver, Santiago, was actually a reckless driver, but because I wanted to freeze every second in time and stare at the frame for hours. Everything from the street markets, houses, and gas stations looked like art, even if some seemed on the verge of crumbling. Havana’s diverse architecture and beautiful color scheme left me in awe at every turn. It was hard to believe that people actively lived on those streets. To me, they looked like paintings one could find only on a canvas. 

When I settled in for our orientation at the Casas, I was welcomed by the crows of roosters and the beating of drums. For a moment, I thought this was all part of the orientation, as if the API team hired a rooster and some drummers just for us. But this was just an average evening for a Cuban neighborhood. By the middle of the trip, I had abandoned my phone’s alarm clock for those morning roosters. And with all the talented musicians in Havana, I didn’t miss my Spotify account for a second. 

Colorful plaza in Old Havana

Walking through the streets of Havana for the first time, it didn’t take long to find the seafront. There was water for as far as the eye could see, with not a single boat or island visible on the horizon. I don’t believe I’ve seen the ocean in a purer form, because I was genuinely frightened by its magnificence. I’ve been to the beach before, and I’ve watched National Geographic, but I was not prepared for this. I could taste the salty sea spray as powerful waves crashed against the rocks below the sidewalk, on which I spoke to a local for the first time. 

The local was with his father, who was selling Cuban history books. We discussed everything between his job as a medical lab technician, the U.S embargo against Cuba, and his personal feelings about the government. He was willing to give us a tour of Havana, and so we went for a walk. We asked him if he could smell what I believed to be sewage, which he said he couldn’t. I wasn’t there long enough to get used to the smell which came in explosive, but short lived pockets. 

We got to a park near our Casas, where there were children who looked no older than fifteen playing soccer. Many were smoking, and one wore tattoos all over his legs. At the least, it was nice to see a community of children playing together- I hardly recall seeing any cell phones. 

We were still with the local and his dad as we watched the kids. He gave me a coin worth three Cuban pesos. In return, he requested money for milk. This was a common theme I would have to accept in Cuba, especially as a tourist. Hustling and requesting money is common here. The largest Cuban export is tourism, after all.

There’s something delightful about being approached by strangers on the street, even if many are interested in my wallet. It leads me to compare it with the life I will return to in under a week. On the UMass Lowell shuttle, I often see everyone glued to their phones. Sometimes I wish more people would just look up and say hi. 

There is no way for me to express all my emotions about this trip in one blog post. I haven’t touched upon the public bathrooms, the stray cats and dogs, the guava juice, or the newfound fact that other people on the globe see the moon at a different angle. But I wouldn’t change a single thing about this experience. The good as well as the bad was needed for every day to be the adventure that it was. It is a challenge to maintain the same level of excitement back home. However, my stay in Cuba has given me plenty to ponder on, and plenty to continue exploring. 

Rise and Grind

I woke up early and knew we had many activities to complete this fine Sunday morning in Cuba. I first did my usual routine of grabbing my water bottle, crossing the street to grab water, and waiting for breakfast to be served at the girl’s Casa. After filling my water bottle, I walked up the tiny stairs at the girl’s Casa and looked out at Vedado in the morning. The streets were full of people waiting to work, but there were very few cars, and I could see the ocean between the buildings. After looking out on Vedado, I crawled down the stairs clutching on and sat down for breakfast. We had our usual fresh juice, eggs, ham, and, most importantly, strong Cuban coffee. After having a few cups and conversing with everyone at breakfast, it was time to prepare for the day. This involved lathering up on sunscreen and bug spray, and then we hopped on the bus and were off to Old Havana, the tourist part of Havana, and what the city is best known for. 

Plaza de la Catedral

Hopping off the bus, Elianna, our translator, began to give us a tour of the first plaza we were in. Havana’s history is fascinating, and learning about how the British took control of Havana from the Spanish and then ended up trading it back for Florida shows its complexion. One of the most interesting parts of the first pizza was seeing how one street had a wood road instead of cobblestones, as the governor of Cuba then did not like the noise level caused by cobblestones. Historically, the wood street was a bad idea and did not hold up well, so it was not widely adopted. However, as a civil engineer, I find it interesting to see what roads can be made of and how they last long-term. Moving out of the first plaza, we moved into Plaza de la Catedral, a beautiful plaza containing the Havana Cathedral, a spectacular catholic church that is stunning. Walking inside, you can see the architectural beauty and why the plaza is named after the cathedral. After I said a prayer and admired the Cathedral, we headed off to our next adventure.  

Old Havana

Leaving the cathedral, we saw more of Old Havana, which was very quintessential Havana: the colorful buildings and music. We saw many activities in the streets, from street vendors selling art to dancing, and the spirit of Havana was alive. Before lunch, we stopped at a chocolate shop to get a 100 pesos milkshake and talk about our experience. Then, we headed off to a rooftop for lunch. Let me tell you, the food was fantastic, starting with Nachos and having a salad for lunch. It was easily the best food I had in Cuba. The atmosphere was perfect, and I could see the harbor. This was how I imagined Cuba was. After finishing a delicious Creme Brulee, I was full and excited to start the second part of my day. 

San Jose Market

The next exciting part of our day was the San Jose market. I was too excited. I love flea markets and negotiating, so this day was becoming nearly perfect for me. So, the San Jose market was hit hard. The first item I bought was two replica license plates, which are good replicas. After going through the market’s first floor and seeing the same items at every booth, I went upstairs to check out the artwork. Let me tell you, it’s spectacular, and I was quickly engaged after walking around and shrewd negotiation. I ended up with one print and two paintings. I was happy with my purchases and felt triumphant at the market. 

Car Tour and Wrap Up

Leaving the market, we were off to our next adventure, which I was most excited about: the classic car tour, which is a tour of Havana in classic American cars. So, upon arrival at the vehicles, I looked for which one looked most unoriginal, which happened to be a beige 1932 Ford. While hopping in the car, I talked to the owner, who mentioned it had a Lada engine, a very popular swap as Ladas are so available and parts are plentiful. As we started our tour, I noticed that Cuba has road laws that do not seem to be strongly enforced, so the streets are a crazy mix of people, including cars, bicyclists, mopeds, motorcycles, and buses. Alas, we survived and made it to Revolution Square. I was able to talk to the owner more about how he had converted the coupe into a convertible and how the car was his pride and joy. Furthermore, how he got parts for the vehicle from a friend in Chicago, showing how, with some work, the embargo can be bypassed.  

We ended our day at dinner at our usual spot, and I got the chicken breast, like always. I was quite happy with my day and could not think of a better way to spend a day in Cuba. The final activity for the night was checking out a couple of the bars in Vedado and then heading back to the Casa to get sleep before another day of exploring Havana. 

This traveling seminar will use the Cuban experience as a backdrop for experiential learning, along with discussions with professionals in that particular field of study, and writing assignments designed to allow students to reflect upon their experience studying and living in Cuba. Students will gain a multi-disciplinary overview of Cuban contemporary culture and further understanding from a cultural, socio-political and historical context.

To learn more please contact us.

You can also read blogs from previous trips to Cuba listed below or from other destinations across the globe UMass Lowell students travel to.

• 2020: Special Topics In Honors: Cultural Immersion in Havana, Cuba
• 2019: Special Topics In Honors: Cultural Immersion In Havana, Cuba
• 2019: Havana Cuba: Global Correspondent
• 2018: Traveling Seminar: Cuba – Perceptions & Realities
• 2017: Havana, Cuba: Cultural Immersion
• 2016: Havana, Cuba: Cultural Immersion