Do you like going on Adventures and exploring new cultures? Each year, the Honors College at UMass Lowell takes students on a study-abroad trip to explore different lifestyles, religions, and environments. This winter, a group of fifteen honors students from UMass Lowell traveled to Cuba, and on their 2nd day, they learned about the religion of the Cuban people, its origin, and its influence.

My morning began early at 6:00 am and got ready for breakfast. Breakfast was very light, with mango juice, scrambled eggs, and some toast. Next, we visited the Center of Psychology and Sociology (CIPS). The introductory lecture to CIPS was fascinating however, having to listen to Spanish and English was a burden I couldn’t bear. I wanted to rest up a bit, but I was in front, so I dozed off five times. After CIPS, we headed to old Havana to learn about Santeria.

Santeria is a religion in Cuba that originated from West Africans, specifically Nigeria, from a particular tribe- Yoruba. The belief was brought to Cuba by the enslaved Africans in the 16th century. During this colonial period, the Spanish had colonized Cuba so they tried to force the Catholic religion on the enslaved people. And so the enslaved people syncretized that faith with the Catholic faith.

Our lessons about Santeria began under the Ceiba tree. The Ceiba tree has four branches, and natives highly revere it as it is believed that the first religious meeting of Santeria occurred under

the Ceiba. The Ceiba tree we were taken to had feathers, and it was said that people still sacrificed under it.

While walking to the house of Santeria, I felt I was back home in Ghana as the warmth on my face was accompanied by a gentle touch, a reminder of the sun’s benevolence. The street around me seemed to radiate with vitality, casting aside any shadows of doubt or gloom. But that peacefulness immediately disappeared when we entered Santeria’s house on the left of the entrance – many carved images of heads, bamboo beads, and dolls. The different dolls and carved images had different colors associated with different gods. Santeria doesn’t worship one god; it combines many gods. The atmosphere in the living room was tranquil but heavy, probably because many things surrounded me. I enjoyed the talk about the different colors and how they represent different gods. Although I grew up thinking all these were superstitions. Listening to all the different gods in everything was like listening to my grandmother tell me stories; what differed was that Santeria used different names. In Santeria, Oshun is the god of the winds and also for fertility, and her color is yellow. Oshun is also the god of love and fertility. The god of lightning is Shango, and his color is red and white. The blue color depicts Yemaya, and she is the god of the sea.

Above all these gods, the olofi- is the most powerful god. He is god, the heaven and earth. But I was incredibly enlightened when the tour guide said that every human has different energies they exert. I had heard that phrase before, but when he said that, two things were rushing through my head: 1. Are these energies what distinguish one person from another? Are these energies attributed to destiny? For example, if people exhibit more energy, do they have a greater destiny? And so I ended up asking my second question, and the tourist replied that if someone has greater power, they may use it to do what they need, and they wouldn’t become just a worshipper but someone with authority. Also, in Santeria, one can choose to become holy, whereby the person would be locked up in a room with no phone, just them and the gods, and also had to wear white out, and they could not be photographed. I have many questions about this act, but I’m too far from Cuba to ask.

We visited another sister religion of Santeria, and it was called Orisha. Orisha and Santreria differ in that in Orisha, there is a mediator who can hear from the gods and can foretell the

future, whereas, in Santeria, there’s no such. This makes Santeria easy to worship by everyone in their homes but not Orisha. Fun fact: everyone and anyone can have images of Santeria in their living room to worship. A female worshipper is called santera, while a male worshipper is santero. The worshippers can’t make sacrifices. Sacrifices in Santeria are made using animals – only the Babalawo or the high priest can make sacrifices.

It wasn’t far from Santeria’s house to Orisha; the sun was shining, making the walk fun. I was also excited that it wasn’t in the cold in Massachusetts. The inside of Orisha’s shrine had a strong scent that I couldn’t detect. Eventually, it faded away, probably because I was used to it. The mediator at the shrine sat on a chair and held on a cane with a skeleton head can. I was frightened to be in that room because of all the images and things, it wasn’t for me. But the fact that I wasn’t alone but with a group put me at ease. Before leaving, the tourist wanted to drink, so he took the alcohol and spat it three or two times on the gods before drinking. The room started smelling like a strong alcohol, I quickly rushed out to enjoy the fresh air outside. I was curious why he spat three times, so I asked, and he said it was to make offerings to the gods. The tour guide said he worshipped both Santeria and Orisha. I was confused about why he would do that, but I didn’t want to question his beliefs.

Walking through this trifecta of scorching sun, foul odor, and buzzing flies became a test of fortitude. The discomfort was palpable, and each inhalation carried the mingled scents of heat and trash. This discomfort was satisfied by the viewing of the different colors of houses. Each house bore its unique hue, standing out against the harsh backdrop of the sunlit streets. The pastel blues whispered of tranquility, while fiery reds exuded warmth, creating a visual symphony that resonated with his senses. The street art was beautiful; blue, black, and red were the dominating colors, and they all represented a god. The paintings were simple but complex. I stared at it several times but still couldn’t understand the meaning.

While perplexed about the painting, our afternoon was entertained by a singer, drummers, and dancers who tried to portray how the ceremonial Santeria would look. I was smiling t and was overwhelmed by cuteness when the little girl was dancing. I was deeply touched by her innocence and energy.

After a long day, it was time for lunch at El Frente. The ambiance at El Frente was a perfect blend of sophistication and relaxation. The soft murmur of conversations is accompanied by the gentle breeze. The food was a whole art, and the appetizers were heavy. The food was delicious. I had grilled chicken as my main meal, and it was terrific.

At the end of the day – the evening- we headed out for dinner at El Idillio, and the food was also good- the appetizers were heavy. Being appetizer-heavy is a Cuban restaurant tradition. Out of all the restaurants, El Frente was my favorite.

The first full day of Cuba was packed yet thrilling. I woke up to a breakfast that would become routine. Papayas and bananas with a glass of freshly squeezed mango juice. Being the adventurous person I am, I tried papayas and mango juice for the first time. I was not a fan of papayas (although I am glad I tried it), but the mango juice was delightful. With my chopped up bananas, I drizzled Cuban honey on top of them. The honey from Cuba tasted fresher than anything I have had in Lowell. It tasted like a flower.

We started the day early and immediately knew it was going to be special. We met up at a local park with our tour guide. A native Cuban who knew and practiced the Cuban religion Santeria. Santeria is a religious practice many Cubans practice. They worship roughly 400 gods by building shrines in their houses. I was familiar with Santeria from the project my girlfriend and fellow classmate Ainsley presented on, yet it was fascinating to hear from someone so close on the subject. My favorite part of this guided tour was when we met a practicing priest. The tour guide took the group into the back of this run down apartment building. In this hot and stuffy room, the Santeria priest sat in the back. He was dressed in white attire, colorful beads and a wooden cane. This cane caught my attention specifically due to the skull on the end. Next to the priest was a collection of offerings to the gods. This collection contained many different gifts, ranging from dolls to Cuban cigars. After learning about the Santeria religion, I thought our day was over. However, it had just begun.

When we returned to our residence, we were led into the back garden area. Awaiting us were four Cuban dancers. They introduced themselves and announced that they were teaching us the basics of Cuban dancing. Cuban dancing is done mostly in four different styles of music: Salsa, Mambo, Son, and a hybrid of all three. I stood next to Ainsley and we started dancing. I can understand the appeal, but it was not for me. That being said, I was not nearly as bad as I thought I was going to be. Ainsley, taking dance class for six years, loved each and every minute of it. After our dance lessons, we went to the front of our residence and I was delighted to see four classic cars awaiting us. API had planned a classic car tour to show us Havana. Ainsley and I chose the bright blue convertible for our tour, and our wonderful translator Ana Elana joined. Ana Elana, an award winning Spanish translator, grew up in Cuba.

As we drove through the Havana streets, Ana Elana told us stories about growing up in Cuba. She also pointed out many buildings, such as the university her parents studied in as well as where filmmakers shot “The Godfather Part 2”. Besides the novelty of riding around in cars from the 1950s, I particularly loved this tour because it gave me a greater sense of Havana. Before coming, I pictured Havana as this small, densely packed city. However, this car tour took me to parts of the city I never knew existed. We drove through the city, but also suburbs and even forest areas. If I ever return to Havana, I would love to check out the beautiful nature areas shown on this classic car tour.

When we returned to the residence, the group showered quickly before heading over to the API welcome dinner. At this welcome dinner, I had an amazing lobster stew. I didn’t know this, but Caribbean lobster and Maine lobster are quite different. While that seemingly made sense (cold vs hot temperatures), I never tasted Caribbean lobster until that night. I still prefer Maine lobster, but that stew was probably the best meal I had the entire trip. More importantly, that dinner was fantastic due to the conversations I had. One of the standout conversations I had was with the program head Melissa. Melissa was born Argentina and studied in the United States. Today, she works with API to bring students from the United States to visit Cuba. Being born in Argentina yet living in Havana gave Melissa a unique viewpoint on world politics. This perspective was one of the most fascinating I learned about on this trip. When dessert was being passed out, Ainsley and I split from the group to go to the Tropicana.

The Tropicana is a nightclub from the 1950s. I talked about the club in my United States Mobsters video because this club had heavy involvement from mobsters. At the same time, the Tropicana used to pull some of the biggest names of its day- ranging from Nat King Cole to Eartha Kitt and is still beloved to this day. Going to the Tropicana, I had high expectations and I was not let down. The show lasted roughly an hour and a half and did not waste any time. There was a mixture of dancing, singing, and even stunt work. Ainsley and I sat at a table with two other couples- one from Mexico and one from Cuba. They were incredibly friendly, even at one point offering to buy us both dinner. My favorite part of this show was how interactive it was. During the show, the dancers would often come into the isles and dance right next to you. When the show was over, the performers went out into the audience and grabbed a few people to learn how to dance with them. I was chosen to go up, but Ainsley was. Taking some inspiration from our lesson earlier that day, Ainsley rocked the stage with the other volunteers. At some point, everyone who didn’t leave stormed the stage- including myself and the two couples we sat with. We danced and even did a conga line. The Tropicana lived up to my expectations and surpassed it in many ways. Overall, the first full day was packed yet one of the biggest highlights of the trip.

On the second day of the study abroad trip in Cuba, I woke up excited, but unsure of what was to come. It was our first full day in Havana since we arrived after dark the evening prior, and I’d viewed the itineraries, but had no concrete expectations of our plans. After breakfast, we got on the bus to go to CIPS for the first time. CIPS is the Center for Psychological and Sociological Research and we had a welcome lecture from which we got to learn more about their mission and their role as a host institution to support us and other study abroad programs.

I found it really cool to hear about the research they were conducting as well as how a big part of the institution’s role is to spread awareness about the research going on in Cuba along with the history of Cuba. They also provide a platform to encourage education about these topics to foreign students. Like most things in Cuba, CIPS is government-funded and I found it interesting how there was a wide range of research that was sponsored by the government and used for substantive purposes to improve the country.

Following this, we got to learn more about religion in Cuba through a tour of Ocha-Ifa, which is commonly known as Santería, but in Cuba, Ocha-Ifa is the most accurate and preferred title for the religion. We walked around the city and visited altars while we learned from the tour guide, Elias Aseff, a local anthropologist. Ocha-Ifa is a syncretic religion derived from a mix of African and European influences which is practiced around the world, but particularly popular in Cuba. First, he told us about the sacredness of the sequoia trees in a park we were in which I found interesting due to the connection between nature and spirituality in Cuba. He also talked about Cubans wielding religion as a weapon or a solution to a problem which I found to be a rather thought-provoking perspective. We were welcomed warmly inside these religious spaces because as we were reminded, they had nothing to hide, and this lack of any sort of secrecy around the religion I also found refreshing.

The altars were really interesting to look at and the talk was very informative, but just walking around Central Havana with the tour guide was even more enlightening on the spirit and state of the city. Everyone was extremely friendly, to the point where I kept questioning if Aseff

somehow knew everyone because he greeted many people he passed on the street and they talked to each other like they were lifelong friends. While walking in the street, we also saw a lot of street animals, particularly dogs and cats, which was saddening, but many were cared for and treated with kindness from the Cuban people. There were also large piles of trash on the streets which highlighted a waste management problem in Havana which was a bit surprising because in other manners, there is a lot of innovation in Cuba. As part of this tour, we also went down the Callejon de Hamel which was home to vibrant murals and art pieces. Here, we also saw a cultural performance where the young performers again exhibited a friendliness without any sense of expectation on us, with the young girl dancing over to many of us and even placing her hat on several of our heads, including mine.

After this tour, we headed to lunch at El del Frente, a rooftop restaurant which gave me a first taste of the many courses and interesting foods available in Cuba. Then, we returned back to the residencia, Casa Vera, where we took a Cuban dance class. We struggled a bit, but the instructors helped to give us tastes of different types of Cuban dance like the salsa and rumba, and it was a fun high-energy activity that strengthened my appreciation for Cuban music and dance. Later in the trip, we had the opportunity to go to a salsa club to apply our very amateur skills, and we ran into some of the salsa instructors who were again very supportive and encouraging. The people dancing there were very impressive and learning Cuban dance styles and immersing ourselves in the Cuban dance scene was such a lively experience.

After this, we went on the classic car tour. Personally, I’ve never been very into cars so I didn’t think this would be my favorite event, but it by far surpassed all of my expectations. Earlier in the day, we’d seen several classic cars that were very cool looking in all sorts of bright colors. The cars that we were able to drive in on the tour were just as unique looking and in even better condition. There was this sense of personality infused in them that I found so refreshing in comparison to the cars in the U.S. which are much more uniform looking. I was able to drive in a pink convertible with eyelashes on the headlights that me and my friends loved. Our driver promptly told us her name was Lola and riding around in her was such an unforgettable experience that I think will go down as a core memory for me. Touring the city with the wind running through my hair and the music playing and seeing all of the unique architecture and vivacity of the city was such a cool perspective. Our driver even ventured off the path to avoid traffic which briefly made me think we were getting kidnapped, but ended up just making the tour that much more unique and amazing. We stopped by the Jose Marti Memorial which was an impressive sight to behold and got to look at more cars from other tours. Our driver spoke very little English which he apologized profusely for, even though if anything I feel like we were the ones with the responsibility to learn more Spanish, but despite the language barrier, we were able to connect. He showed us a photo of his daughter, and told Rory that he thought she looked like her and was very kind to us the whole trip. After the memorial, we continued the tour and were able to see the lush forest areas in addition to the urban side of the city, and even got to see a beautiful sunset over the ocean during this trip. It was a picturesque evening that was a highlight of the entire trip for me!

After the tour, we went to the welcome dinner at El Idilio with the staff of the API program who coordinated many of our activities in Cuba. We had more good food and were tasked by API Cuba’s resident director with sharing some of the innovative things that we saw that day. There were several to pick from, but an interesting point brought up was how there’s new innovation in the old of Cuba, from the restoration of classic cars to the maintenance of historical buildings. Havana may look like it’s stuck in a different time period, but in reality, it is a lively and vibrant city with the new infused among the old. This duality was really interesting to witness and be a part of on the trip. After the dinner, we returned to the residencia and were exhausted from a great, but tiring day. We decided to stay in and started an UNO game that grew to include many of the students on the trip and helped form bonds and friendly rivalries among the group. It was already growing to be a trip to remember and I went to bed, excited for all that was to come on the rest of our journey.

My Experience in Cuba
Flying is one of my least favorite and greatest things about travel. In life, there is nothing like going up into the air and just flying through the clouds.

Day 1 of Cuba was one of my favorite days for a few reasons. Everyone gets to know each other to whatever degree they can, and suffering is a great way to get to know people. However, the interruptions were interesting, the delayed flight was an interesting time. Everyone got to talking and discussing their interests and such. I got to know Charlie and Ainsley better, and both of them are interesting people. I knew some people from this trip, Mike K was in my Middle Eastern History class, and it was just as complex as it sounds. Then I met many other people from the class, but eventually, the plane was going to board, and the plane ride was a time and a half. Three hours in the sky was wonderful seeing the clouds, seas, and land. Leaving Boston was something I enjoyed doing to a degree. Heading up into the sky into a country that is so different from my own and with different views as to what is normal. I knew very little about the culture of Cuba. I just knew their films, and state-produced films never give a good view of culture. The presentations helped but this would be applying knowledge that we researched to a real culture to real people. However, my thoughts about this would be interrupted by our arrival in Miami, and we had to sprint across the airport to the gate for our flight to Havana. I did arrive in time thanks to a late pilot. The other members of the group would arrive soon after, but the plane stalled for us which was good. Boarding the plane to Havana was something unique compared to many of my other travel experiences. Australia, England, and America are all places where the average citizen can visit without any trouble. However, Cuba is not like that they are in constant conflict with the USA, and yet the Cuban people seem so focused on the crisis, but uncaring about their government.

The major difference between the US and Cuba that was immediately noticeable was how kind the people were compared to large portions of the North. Growing up I heard the saying “not nice, but kind” about Boston and Mass people in general. I believe the statement to be true, but I never noticed how uncaring we are on a day-to-day scale. Arriving at the hotel was a great experience for that reason. The food was wonderful, and much different from the food at home. In the US there is a lot added to even bread, but in Cuba, they seem to use the bare necessities to make the meal. The tastes were different and delicious all the same. However, the amount of beans was worrying at the time. Then we had a presentation about the culture of Cuba, the more worrying aspects, and common scams. I decided to go out with some people I just met and explore Havana. Havana was a unique city, and I enjoyed the grid system. City design like that is quite common in designed cities but Havana seems organized for a historical city. I went to a bar with a few of the people in the group, and I did not drink so I got to witness one of our students getting scammed. The very thing we were told to pay attention to, and it was quite funny from a certain perspective. However, this taught me a pretty good lesson, people are very nice but extremely opportunistic. The island’s culture seems to promote the idea of taking care of others when possible but taking care of yourself.

The first day in Cuba was busy and helped me work through a few things. From the desire for new experiences, and to challenge myself by forcing myself into new environments, and this was accomplished in many ways. The first day was a way for me to start analyzing a foreign culture and gain a further understanding of the world, history, and social connections. I ended the day with writing about it all and experiencing the joys of air conditioning, and the lack of issues with my room’s air conditioning. The Cuban experience was truly unique, and nothing I could replace with any other trip.

Michael Kubit

The first day in Cuba along with the initial departure was a great test in flexibility and appreciation of travel and visiting foreign countries. The day started at four in the morning for me as I rushed last minute packing and preparation, this was also done on a significant lack of sleep. Luckily, I didn’t forget or miss anything, but I really did learn that procrastination when it comes to something as vital as packing really should be avoided.

Arriving at the airport and waiting for the first flight to arrive was a great test in patience but also in meeting and making new friends. The initial check-ins through security went decently alright though I did make a few mistakes in not taking off my money belt during item check which earned disgruntlement from the guard. It was exceedingly difficult not to fall asleep waiting for the plane to come but I found I would not have to as more people came in. The general energy was muted but still excited for what was to come, some people never flew or traveled before while others knew one another from prior trips and hit it off.

The wait at the airport was riddled with bureaucratic and scheduling issues though as our flight was delayed and moved, leading to more grogginess and some fear of missing our connecting flight. The plane ride to Miami was grueling and a bit claustrophobic, it was difficult to sleep because I was in the middle aisle but it was likewise hard to stay awake. I took to reading and minor conversation to pass time but I really felt each hour come and go. Landing was not that much of an improvement as we learned that we were on the precipice of missing our flight to Havana. It was because the pilot was stuck in traffic that the flight was delayed enough for us to make it on time. Despite the flight attendants asking that people without connecting flights remain seated to let us out faster, everyone ahead of us tried to leave, making the wait longer. We had to literally run to our needed gate, which combined with the much warmer climate of Florida made me realize how different Cuba was going to be. The plane ride to Havana was much simpler and cleaner than the Miami flight. I was able to sleep through most of it though I found it poetic how despite the blockade and exceedingly hostile tensions with Cuba, the flight was only an hour which I felt really hammered in how close the Cubans are to America and how issuing such an embargo was unsustainable.

Landing in Havana in the aptly named Jose Marti Airport was my first experience seeing a foreign nation, the rolling landscape coupled with the lush greenery shocked me. I don’t know what I expected the land in Cuba to look like but I did not expect it to look so different to Florida or anywhere else I’ve seen in the U.S. The check in process in the airport was also eye opening as it would serve as a general outline for what the rest of the trip would be like, cheery and welcoming people and buildings and utilities with a distinct age and wear to them. The air felt different then in America, denser and laced with smog. The procedures at the airport were similar though distinct from the TSA in America, the lines were much longer, the airport was more compact and utilitarian; not packed with stores and shopping areas everywhere.

I noticed a greater amount of diversity in the airport staff along with a distinct lack of militarized security. Egressing the airport saw my first view of Cuba on the ground which was awe inspiring, the classic cars as well as the climate hit me first as the biggest changes from Massachusetts. Getting into the bus and driving through Cuba made me resolute in my prior opinions of the country; that through resilience and community pride the Cuban people managed to hold together as a country in spite of the economic situation. The streets were cracked and dirty, the houses with chipped paint and decay, trash and rubble littered spots on the streets with people mulling through the roads without care of crosswalks. The mindset was distinctly frugal and utilitarian with patch work cars and bikes plowing through both dirt and chipped roads, spewing a uniquely Cuban smog underneath the lush greenery and hills surrounding the city. Despite the grime and detritus coat, a spirit of vibrancy and pride bled through the city. Pastel colors, lights and sounds burst through the ramshackle state of things; classical pillars and ornate intricacy dotted the skyline and buildings. Through the entirety of the trip there was an overwhelming sense of an underlying almost sleeping Cuban patriotism and vigor, coated with the dust and history of the blockade and revolution. The Cuban people would paint the visages of Castro and Che mixed with the colors of revolution and the national flag, in defiance and pride of the situation they find themselves in.

Such a contrast between Havana and Boston forced me to think on how narrow the American perspective on Cuba was as I realized in the bus that it could take a lifetime to explore the entirety of Cuba and appreciate all it had to offer. Driving through the plaza of the revolution and the surrounding sprawl drew further difference from the states where instead of advertisements and shops overwhelming the eye, it was purely the city that looked back. We eventually made it to the residencia where I was shocked at how well maintained and tall it was, it looked like a well off building in Florida which surprised me that Cuba was able to keep such buildings well kept. Again, vibrant pastels and ornate geometry defined the town block we were in while simultaneously being littered by specs of trash and dirt. The sidewalk in some areas was literally crumbling due to trees taking refuge in it. The residencia itself housed neat beds and furniture which I assume dates back to the 1900s, two pianos and renaissance-styled artwork; tiled floors with planted pottery lining the walls and ceiling giving a sense of coziness and naturality. The food given was presented in a family-style dig in which tasted rich and organic. I gathered that the effort to create and present meals with the limited resources available was impressive, I still find it insane how many dishes and amenities available were created with such little available. The group then had an orientation on the potential dangers in Cuba. I never encountered trouble in Havana though I did find it interesting that the plumbing could handle toilet paper due to the advanced age of the piping.

All in all the awe and inspiration of seeing Cuba for the first time drove home a great contrast between Havana and the United States in culture and makeup. The way the Cuban people portray their national story through their art, architecture, music, politics, food and religion culminates in a resolute people determined to hold onto their sovereignty and pride. It would seem that the dearth of resources has crafted a unique sense of innovation and survivalism. I am left with the impression that the Cuban people will continue to tackle every challenge ahead with determination.