Day 2: Love Gyau

Do you like going on Adventures and exploring new cultures? Each year, the Honors College at UMass Lowell takes students on a study-abroad trip to explore different lifestyles, religions, and environments. This winter, a group of fifteen honors students from UMass Lowell traveled to Cuba, and on their 2nd day, they learned about the religion of the Cuban people, its origin, and its influence.

My morning began early at 6:00 am and got ready for breakfast. Breakfast was very light, with mango juice, scrambled eggs, and some toast. Next, we visited the Center of Psychology and Sociology (CIPS). The introductory lecture to CIPS was fascinating however, having to listen to Spanish and English was a burden I couldn’t bear. I wanted to rest up a bit, but I was in front, so I dozed off five times. After CIPS, we headed to old Havana to learn about Santeria.

Santeria is a religion in Cuba that originated from West Africans, specifically Nigeria, from a particular tribe- Yoruba. The belief was brought to Cuba by the enslaved Africans in the 16th century. During this colonial period, the Spanish had colonized Cuba so they tried to force the Catholic religion on the enslaved people. And so the enslaved people syncretized that faith with the Catholic faith.

Our lessons about Santeria began under the Ceiba tree. The Ceiba tree has four branches, and natives highly revere it as it is believed that the first religious meeting of Santeria occurred underpage1image66944240

the Ceiba. The Ceiba tree we were taken to had feathers, and it was said that people still sacrificed under it.

While walking to the house of Santeria, I felt I was back home in Ghana as the warmth on my face was accompanied by a gentle touch, a reminder of the sun’s benevolence. The street around me seemed to radiate with vitality, casting aside any shadows of doubt or gloom. But that peacefulness immediately disappeared when we entered Santeria’s house on the left of the entrance – many carved images of heads, bamboo beads, and dolls. The different dolls and carved images had different colors associated with different gods. Santeria doesn’t worship one god; it combines many gods. The atmosphere in the living room was tranquil but heavy, probably because many things surrounded me. I enjoyed the talk about the different colors and how they represent different gods. Although I grew up thinking all these were superstitions. Listening to all the different gods in everything was like listening to my grandmother tell me stories; what differed was that Santeria used different names. In Santeria, Oshun is the god of the winds and also for fertility, and her color is yellow. Oshun is also the god of love and fertility. The god of lightning is Shango, and his color is red and white. The blue color depicts Yemaya, and she is the god of the sea.

Above all these gods, the olofi- is the most powerful god. He is god, the heaven and earth. But I was incredibly enlightened when the tour guide said that every human has different energies they exert. I had heard that phrase before, but when he said that, two things were rushing through my head: 1. Are these energies what distinguish one person from another? Are these energies attributed to destiny? For example, if people exhibit more energy, do they have a greater destiny? And so I ended up asking my second question, and the tourist replied that if someone has greater power, they may use it to do what they need, and they wouldn’t become just a worshipper but someone with authority. Also, in Santeria, one can choose to become holy, whereby the person would be locked up in a room with no phone, just them and the gods, and also had to wear white out, and they could not be photographed. I have many questions about this act, but I’m too far from Cuba to ask.

We visited another sister religion of Santeria, and it was called Orisha. Orisha and Santreria differ in that in Orisha, there is a mediator who can hear from the gods and can foretell thepage2image66613024

future, whereas, in Santeria, there’s no such. This makes Santeria easy to worship by everyone in their homes but not Orisha. Fun fact: everyone and anyone can have images of Santeria in their living room to worship. A female worshipper is called santera, while a male worshipper is santero. The worshippers can’t make sacrifices. Sacrifices in Santeria are made using animals – only the Babalawo or the high priest can make sacrifices.

It wasn’t far from Santeria’s house to Orisha; the sun was shining, making the walk fun. I was also excited that it wasn’t in the cold in Massachusetts. The inside of Orisha’s shrine had a strong scent that I couldn’t detect. Eventually, it faded away, probably because I was used to it. The mediator at the shrine sat on a chair and held on a cane with a skeleton head can. I was frightened to be in that room because of all the images and things, it wasn’t for me. But the fact that I wasn’t alone but with a group put me at ease. Before leaving, the tourist wanted to drink, so he took the alcohol and spat it three or two times on the gods before drinking. The room started smelling like a strong alcohol, I quickly rushed out to enjoy the fresh air outside. I was curious why he spat three times, so I asked, and he said it was to make offerings to the gods. The tour guide said he worshipped both Santeria and Orisha. I was confused about why he would do that, but I didn’t want to question his beliefs.

Walking through this trifecta of scorching sun, foul odor, and buzzing flies became a test of fortitude. The discomfort was palpable, and each inhalation carried the mingled scents of heat and trash. This discomfort was satisfied by the viewing of the different colors of houses. Each house bore its unique hue, standing out against the harsh backdrop of the sunlit streets. The pastel blues whispered of tranquility, while fiery reds exuded warmth, creating a visual symphony that resonated with his senses. The street art was beautiful; blue, black, and red were the dominating colors, and they all represented a god. The paintings were simple but complex. I stared at it several times but still couldn’t understand the meaning.

While perplexed about the painting, our afternoon was entertained by a singer, drummers, and dancers who tried to portray how the ceremonial Santeria would look. I was smiling t and was overwhelmed by cuteness when the little girl was dancing. I was deeply touched by her innocence and energy.page3image67083792

After a long day, it was time for lunch at El Frente. The ambiance at El Frente was a perfect blend of sophistication and relaxation. The soft murmur of conversations is accompanied by the gentle breeze. The food was a whole art, and the appetizers were heavy. The food was delicious. I had grilled chicken as my main meal, and it was terrific.

At the end of the day – the evening- we headed out for dinner at El Idillio, and the food was also good- the appetizers were heavy. Being appetizer-heavy is a Cuban restaurant tradition. Out of all the restaurants, El Frente was my favorite.