Tuesday 6/11

By Jack Mara

Food

Biscoff Pancakes at Maggie May’s

When preparing to come to Belfast, I had the very American idea that British food would be inedible and that I would struggle to eat throughout the week. To give Belfast a chance of gaining my respect, I dedicated myself to going to Maggie Mays yesterday’s breakfast place around half a mile from campus, which many had recommended. Entering the building, you immediately remember how old Belfast is. You can tell the building is old and fits the right aesthetic for a European cafe. After sitting down with a friend, I ordered an Americano that was very fitting for an American and a stack of pancakes. The food is not what I remember from my experience looking out the cafe window where we faced a school and people walking to work. There wasn’t a rush in the morning; however, it was calm, unlike in the United States. People were interested in each other. Students were walking to class, not running, to try to make the bell. I felt a sense of calm and started to understand why people genuinely live in Europe. There is balance in life. The man to our right was silently enjoying a coffee and reading his book. I feel a great sense of peace here; as Americans, we can take note that we can succeed without the need to work excessively and think that if we aren’t moving at full speed, we are failing. So, to Maggie Mays, thanks for the pancakes. I will be back. Help me see the appeal of Belfast.

Mid Day Exploring

A row of Citroen Suvs at Charles Hurst Citroen (Citroen is a brand we do not get in the States)

Since the day I was born, I have loved cars. They are my favorite hobby, which can be seen in the fact that I have my bedroom walls covered in Hot Wheels. When I came to Europe, I was most excited to look at cars, which, to some, may be crazy. Northern Ireland is beautiful, and there are great places to explore. Instead of going anywhere aesthetic or beautiful like others in my group were heading mid-day, I was designed to go to dealerships. I Ubered over to discuss with the driver the differences in cars in the United States and how it still felt weird to be a passenger on the left side of the road. I asked him how he came to Belfast. He was from Poland, the same as the Uber driver who took me back, and both seemed to like Belfast and felt sorry for their home countries going through difficulties with the Ukrainian War. Once I arrived, I thought back to my dad bringing home a mail jeep to drive a demo one day when I was around eight. This was the first right-hand drive vehicle I had ever been in, and I still remember the faces of people heading towards us in traffic. They seemed very scared, rightfully so. It felt like a full circle moment talking to someone at the Jeep dealership about a new model they sell in the United Kingdom that we don’t get in the States. 

Sitting Inside a Kia Proceed at Charles Hurst Kia

I saw many more compacts and wagons in all dealerships, which are unpopular in the United States. It was fascinating for me to see differences in vehicles based on the needs and wants of consumers. Americans want large cars and feel the need for SUVs in Europe. They want good fuel economy and smaller cars to activate streets. This trip to the dealerships made me realize that why we travel is to see things we want in the world and to be able to fulfill the dreams and wants we have, no matter how small.

Furthermore, we can connect with others even far away by having the same interests. Hobbies can be a way of coming together, having a few laughs, and improving our day. This trip has made me realize that I need to do more of what I love without societal pressure and the thoughts of others. Some saw a quirky man going to look at cars. I saw a man fulfilling his childhood dream.

Book Festival

Agatha Christie Talk with Mark Aldridge

Agatha Christie is an English writer who is famous and well-respected in Belfast. I am a civil engineer who reads less than I should. What I am getting at is that I had no idea who Agatha Christie was. I was, however, interested in learning about her in the story and listening to the talk by Mark Aldridge, which was interesting to learn and gain an appreciation for someone so perfect at their craft. After this talk was done, there was trivia based on Agatha Christie. This is where the first part of the section comes in. I knew almost nothing about her. Coming in and sitting down with a couple of friends, we were ready to win and collaborated quickly on answers. Our team, named the 3 Lil Piggies, scored 6 points. The winners had over 60. We didn’t do too well. We got last place and won a squash with a mustache and eyes glued onto it. My point is that even though we lost miserably, we still had a great time laughing and talking throughout the night. So did Mark. He thanked us for coming at the end of trivia and said he was happy we enjoyed it and found us funny. This moment is like many in Belfast, making the best out of what is happening and bringing humor to the table to have a great time. Northern Ireland welcomed us with open arms, and I have to say it’s one of my favorite things I’ve done while in Belfast.

Reflection

Belfast is one of the most welcoming places I have been to. Every person I have talked to is more than accommodating and willing to speak to me and answer my questions. I remember an obvious example when a woman heard my question after the Martin Doyle talk. I asked Doyle about it, and she gave me her own experience with the troubles and how it was growing up in that time. This woman was around 70 and talked about events nearly 50 years ago, but she still had emotion in her voice. I felt connected to her and able to start indeed to see the damage the Troubles have left on this city even years later. So, I have no complaints about Belfast. Thanks for having me, and I hope to continue having many laughs and nights reflecting with friends after a long day at the pub. 

My favorite part about arriving in a new place is how excited everyone is to explore and experience the area that they are in. In the weeks leading up to leaving for the trip I, along with my classmates, had read many novels about the history of Northern Ireland. It is exciting to finally be able to experience the culture and learn more about the island overall. Despite being exhausted from our previous full day of travel, we decided to wake up bright and early to explore this morning. 

Firstly, we went to breakfast at a local cafe called Maggie Mays. There, plenty of traditional Irish and English breakfasts were on the menu to try. One of the more popular meals from this cafe was avocado toast with eggs, spinach, and mushrooms, which was very good. I have found that many Irish meals include some form of mushroom along with roasted tomatoes. I thought that was interesting since in the United States, many people do not enjoy eating tomatoes like that, and most of my friends don’t like mushrooms at all. I have also seen many people have beans for breakfast. I enjoy eating beans, but not how they make the beans here. Many people like their beans on toast, which is a popular meal at Maggie Mays, but I don’t think I could ever get that to eat. I don’t think it sounds good. 

For the remainder of the day, we walked around exploring the area where we were staying. The first thing I had to get used to here was crossing the street. I have to make sure I look both ways before crossing since the cars are coming from a different direction than what I am used to. Also, when you are walking by someone, many people tend to walk on the left side of the sidewalk, which I have to get used to doing.

The area where our dorms are is pretty. I’ve noticed there is more green here, especially for Queens University being in a city. In the United States, I feel like there are a lot fewer trees and plants in the city than here. We walked past the Botanical gardens and greenhouse which I am very excited to explore and take pictures of. 

I particularly like the architecture of all the houses here. I am a big fan of all of the brick buildings, especially how the school is built. I think the school looks beautiful, it really does look like something from Harry Potter. 

For dinner, we went to a small diner called Darcy’s Belfast. Inside was very small and there was cool art and nature as decoration. We all got amazing seafood chowder. I am looking forward to having more similar meals here such as fish and chips. I have heard that Ireland’s seafood is delicious. 

This day was the first night we went to the Belfast Book Festival which took place at the Crescent Arts Centre. The first event that we went to was Lucy Caldwell. I was expecting to be bored, however, I very much enjoyed listening to what she had to say. She spoke a lot about girl-hood, and femininity, which I resonated with. She also talked about living in Northern Ireland as a woman and how she found her identity. I was very interested in listening to her talk. She also spoke about her new short story collection Openings, which explores themes of motherhood, femininity, and love. I ended up buying the book and got it signed.  

The second event I attended was Jan Carson and Sophie White. Both authors write stories that are more on the horror side of fiction, writing short stories and novels. I read more horror, mystery, and dystopian novels, so I enjoyed listening to what they had to say about their books. I thought it was especially interesting how they add their own experiences growing up during the Troubles into their novels. I remember Jan Carson explaining how she struggled with being a Catholic in Northern Ireland when she was younger. Now, most of the themes in her novels have something to do with religion and the scary, horror aspect of it.  

I, along with the rest of my peers on this trip, are very excited to see what is in store for us this week at the book festival, and for the rest of the month. I am looking forward to learning more about the history of Ireland, and along with that, I expect to spend a lot more money on books this week. 

Thursday, June 13, 2024

Michael Magee and Louise Kennedy

BELFAST – Today began with a private meeting with two of the authors we had read in preparation for this trip, Michael Magee and Louise Kennedy, on the campus of Queen’s University Belfast, and there were only us students and a few extra administrators and guests present. Both authors read sections from the beginning of their respective novels, and both had a way of gripping the listeners and drawing us into their worlds. Their Irish brogues lent their readings a sort of aesthetic and dramatic effect that caused the characters to leap off the page and into the very room with us.

After that, we had the opportunity to ask questions to the authors about their books, their processes, or themselves. The questions were deep and thoughtful; probing and incisive, but never in bad taste. These were questions we had thought long about and developed over the course of reading these novels and preparing for this trip, and we had received feedback as to which were the very best to ask. Both Magee and Kennedy spoke to us with an openness about their histories, personal lives, and writing processes that imbued us with a profound understanding of their situations and their perspectives in regards to Belfast and the Troubles. Afterwards, we got the chance the talk more directly to the authors, and several of us amiably confronted Magee about the different cut of meat called “bacon” in the United Kingdom, which is closer to our ham; and, in the view of some of us, particularly less suitable than American bacon for most occasions that call for it.

City Center

With several hours to kill before the first Belfast Book Festival event in the evening, some of us ventured to the city center, the first time we had been there since our bus meandered through on the way from the airport. Although we knew the forecast called for precipitation, we were not prepared for the sideways pelting that we were forced to push through. The rain was often only little more than drizzle, but the strong winds converted misty raindrops into sharp pellets driving into our faces with a sting. Umbrellas were of little use; one that had been purchased not an hour ago was so mangled by the wind that it was unsalvageable. Still, we pushed on, dripping our way into the middle of Victoria Square. The part-street, part-mall was open to the outside but protected by a glass dome and consisted of four floors.

Our eyes alighting on the glowing screen of a map, we studied where we might go, and the party settled on Five Guys. Inside, one sign promised a “100% all American experience,” and they indeed delivered. The interior of the restaurant was indistinguishable from an American Five Guys, and the food was too. Unfortunately, the high prices were as well. Still, it was a good meal and a taste of home in this outpost of Americana abroad. After good food in good company, we explored a few clothing stores before deciding to make our way back. We chose to walk again. Even as miserable as I make it sound, I, for one, will look back at those treks through the wind and rain fondly.

Kevin Barry and Fergal Keane

Having made our way back to the Crescent Arts Center, we had the opportunity to see author Kevin Barry in conversation with Lucy Caldwell. The former is one of the most influential and well-known contemporary Irish authors today, and the latter is also a skilled writer and speaker who we had seen at prior events provide humorous and thoughtful insight into writing. Barry captivated the audience; you could hardly even hear anyone breathing. Everyone in the room clung to his every word. One of the best moments was when Barry read aloud from his new novel: the performance was enthralling, as he spoke with the distinct voice of a performer, making use of the silences as well as the words themselves. A few of us were lucky enough to get our copies of Barry’s books signed after the event, relics that will serve to remind us of when we met one of the greats.

The next event several of us attended was former BBC war correspondent Fergal Keane discussing his new book about war, PTSD, and trauma. The conversation was deeply personal and emotional, a theme that has run through most of our time in Belfast. It seems that Irish authors are willing to share the deepest parts of themselves with their audiences, out of love for the audiences and love for writing. Just as when Barry was telling a story, Keane was able to draw the audience in and hold us all with a grip so tight that none could escape, but so soft that none wanted to.

Reflections

Today was the last day of the Belfast Book Festival. We heard from authors all the way from the super-star Kevin Barry to eight-year-olds reading poetry about ice cream. We met writers up close and personal and from across the theater as they spoke onstage. In all of that, a few commonalities emerged. Belfast is a city obviously still reeling from the violent history of the Troubles. The older population grew up in and lived through that awful period, and the younger generations are still dealing with the aftershocks. Even with that shadow hanging over much of the literary landscape, there was an unmistakable air of innovation. Many of the writers were clearly using writing as an outlet to deal with the troubled past, and they were surprisingly open about that and about their struggles. The Belfast literary scene also seems a remarkably friendly and collaborative group of people, all working together to improve their writing. The authors attended each other’s events and mingled with the crowds, rather than remaining only on pedestals on stage and protected from us masses backstage. The community was vibrant and hopeful.

Written by Declan Reidy

 In this study abroad course, UMass Lowell Honors College students will study Irish and Northern Irish contemporary literature at Queen’s University Belfast, meeting local authors, and exploring the rich and inviting city of Belfast.

For more information please contact us.