My favorite part about arriving in a new place is how excited everyone is to explore and experience the area that they are in. In the weeks leading up to leaving for the trip I, along with my classmates, had read many novels about the history of Northern Ireland. It is exciting to finally be able to experience the culture and learn more about the island overall. Despite being exhausted from our previous full day of travel, we decided to wake up bright and early to explore this morning. 

Firstly, we went to breakfast at a local cafe called Maggie Mays. There, plenty of traditional Irish and English breakfasts were on the menu to try. One of the more popular meals from this cafe was avocado toast with eggs, spinach, and mushrooms, which was very good. I have found that many Irish meals include some form of mushroom along with roasted tomatoes. I thought that was interesting since in the United States, many people do not enjoy eating tomatoes like that, and most of my friends don’t like mushrooms at all. I have also seen many people have beans for breakfast. I enjoy eating beans, but not how they make the beans here. Many people like their beans on toast, which is a popular meal at Maggie Mays, but I don’t think I could ever get that to eat. I don’t think it sounds good. 

For the remainder of the day, we walked around exploring the area where we were staying. The first thing I had to get used to here was crossing the street. I have to make sure I look both ways before crossing since the cars are coming from a different direction than what I am used to. Also, when you are walking by someone, many people tend to walk on the left side of the sidewalk, which I have to get used to doing.

The area where our dorms are is pretty. I’ve noticed there is more green here, especially for Queens University being in a city. In the United States, I feel like there are a lot fewer trees and plants in the city than here. We walked past the Botanical gardens and greenhouse which I am very excited to explore and take pictures of. 

I particularly like the architecture of all the houses here. I am a big fan of all of the brick buildings, especially how the school is built. I think the school looks beautiful, it really does look like something from Harry Potter. 

For dinner, we went to a small diner called Darcy’s Belfast. Inside was very small and there was cool art and nature as decoration. We all got amazing seafood chowder. I am looking forward to having more similar meals here such as fish and chips. I have heard that Ireland’s seafood is delicious. 

This day was the first night we went to the Belfast Book Festival which took place at the Crescent Arts Centre. The first event that we went to was Lucy Caldwell. I was expecting to be bored, however, I very much enjoyed listening to what she had to say. She spoke a lot about girl-hood, and femininity, which I resonated with. She also talked about living in Northern Ireland as a woman and how she found her identity. I was very interested in listening to her talk. She also spoke about her new short story collection Openings, which explores themes of motherhood, femininity, and love. I ended up buying the book and got it signed.  

The second event I attended was Jan Carson and Sophie White. Both authors write stories that are more on the horror side of fiction, writing short stories and novels. I read more horror, mystery, and dystopian novels, so I enjoyed listening to what they had to say about their books. I thought it was especially interesting how they add their own experiences growing up during the Troubles into their novels. I remember Jan Carson explaining how she struggled with being a Catholic in Northern Ireland when she was younger. Now, most of the themes in her novels have something to do with religion and the scary, horror aspect of it.  

I, along with the rest of my peers on this trip, are very excited to see what is in store for us this week at the book festival, and for the rest of the month. I am looking forward to learning more about the history of Ireland, and along with that, I expect to spend a lot more money on books this week. 

Thursday, June 13, 2024

Michael Magee and Louise Kennedy

BELFAST – Today began with a private meeting with two of the authors we had read in preparation for this trip, Michael Magee and Louise Kennedy, on the campus of Queen’s University Belfast, and there were only us students and a few extra administrators and guests present. Both authors read sections from the beginning of their respective novels, and both had a way of gripping the listeners and drawing us into their worlds. Their Irish brogues lent their readings a sort of aesthetic and dramatic effect that caused the characters to leap off the page and into the very room with us.

After that, we had the opportunity to ask questions to the authors about their books, their processes, or themselves. The questions were deep and thoughtful; probing and incisive, but never in bad taste. These were questions we had thought long about and developed over the course of reading these novels and preparing for this trip, and we had received feedback as to which were the very best to ask. Both Magee and Kennedy spoke to us with an openness about their histories, personal lives, and writing processes that imbued us with a profound understanding of their situations and their perspectives in regards to Belfast and the Troubles. Afterwards, we got the chance the talk more directly to the authors, and several of us amiably confronted Magee about the different cut of meat called “bacon” in the United Kingdom, which is closer to our ham; and, in the view of some of us, particularly less suitable than American bacon for most occasions that call for it.

City Center

With several hours to kill before the first Belfast Book Festival event in the evening, some of us ventured to the city center, the first time we had been there since our bus meandered through on the way from the airport. Although we knew the forecast called for precipitation, we were not prepared for the sideways pelting that we were forced to push through. The rain was often only little more than drizzle, but the strong winds converted misty raindrops into sharp pellets driving into our faces with a sting. Umbrellas were of little use; one that had been purchased not an hour ago was so mangled by the wind that it was unsalvageable. Still, we pushed on, dripping our way into the middle of Victoria Square. The part-street, part-mall was open to the outside but protected by a glass dome and consisted of four floors.

Our eyes alighting on the glowing screen of a map, we studied where we might go, and the party settled on Five Guys. Inside, one sign promised a “100% all American experience,” and they indeed delivered. The interior of the restaurant was indistinguishable from an American Five Guys, and the food was too. Unfortunately, the high prices were as well. Still, it was a good meal and a taste of home in this outpost of Americana abroad. After good food in good company, we explored a few clothing stores before deciding to make our way back. We chose to walk again. Even as miserable as I make it sound, I, for one, will look back at those treks through the wind and rain fondly.

Kevin Barry and Fergal Keane

Having made our way back to the Crescent Arts Center, we had the opportunity to see author Kevin Barry in conversation with Lucy Caldwell. The former is one of the most influential and well-known contemporary Irish authors today, and the latter is also a skilled writer and speaker who we had seen at prior events provide humorous and thoughtful insight into writing. Barry captivated the audience; you could hardly even hear anyone breathing. Everyone in the room clung to his every word. One of the best moments was when Barry read aloud from his new novel: the performance was enthralling, as he spoke with the distinct voice of a performer, making use of the silences as well as the words themselves. A few of us were lucky enough to get our copies of Barry’s books signed after the event, relics that will serve to remind us of when we met one of the greats.

The next event several of us attended was former BBC war correspondent Fergal Keane discussing his new book about war, PTSD, and trauma. The conversation was deeply personal and emotional, a theme that has run through most of our time in Belfast. It seems that Irish authors are willing to share the deepest parts of themselves with their audiences, out of love for the audiences and love for writing. Just as when Barry was telling a story, Keane was able to draw the audience in and hold us all with a grip so tight that none could escape, but so soft that none wanted to.

Reflections

Today was the last day of the Belfast Book Festival. We heard from authors all the way from the super-star Kevin Barry to eight-year-olds reading poetry about ice cream. We met writers up close and personal and from across the theater as they spoke onstage. In all of that, a few commonalities emerged. Belfast is a city obviously still reeling from the violent history of the Troubles. The older population grew up in and lived through that awful period, and the younger generations are still dealing with the aftershocks. Even with that shadow hanging over much of the literary landscape, there was an unmistakable air of innovation. Many of the writers were clearly using writing as an outlet to deal with the troubled past, and they were surprisingly open about that and about their struggles. The Belfast literary scene also seems a remarkably friendly and collaborative group of people, all working together to improve their writing. The authors attended each other’s events and mingled with the crowds, rather than remaining only on pedestals on stage and protected from us masses backstage. The community was vibrant and hopeful.

Written by Declan Reidy